Majofo

^This guy knows his shit..

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

i am still not sure what blinking D indicator is.

is it a feeling or an actual indicator on the dash?

thanks

Majofo

1KLRTOY

AT3rdClutch All you need to know about switches

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

please bear with me.

i have never seen this before nor aware of this issue.

but thanks for the info

wil5on0701

Didn't feel like reading every post, so sorry if someone already said this... but when you pull that plug 3.5 quarts drains out - not 3. So you need to replace the same if you are just doing a quick service. That's what I do, just a quick service every few oil changes. Has worked out fine for me. They also recommend putting new crush ring on each time you pull the bolt - It's like a dollar so I get one each time.

wil5on0701

^^ My notes are pertaining to auto btw, not sure if same on MT. And also, I use nothing but Acura ATF straight from the dealer

Majofo

You've been a member here for 3 years.

I hate cars

Or maybe he's crazy enough to believe his own shit...

Majofo

Who.. you or Robert?

I hate cars

Me.

Majofo

I know..

Hope you're doing well and enjoying the 328i.. I've been eyeing the 235i (who hasn't).. suspension looks pretty soft but Randy Pobst said it is the most balanced bimmer he's driven in the past 10 years and zero turbo lag.. said it drives like a NA 5L. Pretty wicked straight line performance too.

I hate cars

Hi Joe, you should go for it. Even the little 2.0l drives like a normal V8. The peak power is pretty good but the most impressive part is not the power but the power delivery. No turbo lag and it has tons of torque from idle. It literally drives like it has a much bigger engine, not some high strung turbo 4. That's the beauty of a properly implemented turbo setup. Peak torque will usually be at the rpm where the turbo can first deliver full boost. The inline 6 makes it even easier to have insane spool and low end torque.

I can't comment on the 235 but this less performance oriented 328 is on the soft side but still way more agile and composed than your average car. I'm so thoroughly impressed with how well BMW has implemented the turbo setup. I looked under the hood and there's no "breakthrough" technology. Just a turbo that is a few inches from the exhaust ports in the heads, an electronic waste gate, what looks to be a solenoid operated blowoff valve which I highly suspect is used to keep compressor speed up under light load and shifts, a 3 or 3.5" exhaust coming straight off the turbine wheel; and I'm sure a turbo that's precisely sized for good spool and good power.

Just a few years ago I would not have owned a 4 cylinder turbo or not. The nice thing about the turbo 6 is it runs far less boost and therefore has lots more potential from a simple tune. The low end gets considerably better with a tune on the 6 cylinder btw. It's like they limit the low end a little from the factory. Once my friend got his tuned, the turbo was allowed to spool as early as it was physically capable. This actually resulted in a slightly bloated off idle push in the back so I understand why they limited it a little. But for an enthusiast it literally has the off idle response of an old 454 and I'm not exaggerating. In fact, I got to drive a Viper GTS in the same day as the 335 and no joke, the 335 had it beat in sub 3,000rpm acceleration.

Oh, I should mention that I've driven the 328 maybe 10 times since I bought it. I literally forget sometimes that I own it. That's ok because the dealer told me the new M3 will be a turbo 6 with the hp target in the mid 500s. I'll never be able to own a new M3, but I hope it opens the door for 335 bolt on options, maybe stock M3 parts. Even better would be if they use the same bottom end across the line with just small improvements on the current bottom end but that's probably wishful thinking. I'll teach the fiancée a lesson for not letting me have the 335 and basically stealing the 328 from me lol.

I'm done rambling but definitely let me/us know if you get the 235. You do plan to at least tune it, right? Also, aren't you about the same size as me? I've never sat in the 2 series. I fit in the 3 series comfortably enough but any smaller might be a problem. Have you test driven one?

Majofo

454..

Indeed, if I get one I'd plan on running a juicebox or similar tune. If it ran the same bottom end, that'll give the aftermarket community a lot of confidence pushing it's limits and supporting the platform. It definitely has my attention, but from what I hear from friends and guys in nearby regions.. not too many dealers can get them in the showroom. Order queue is getting longer by the day. Even cars[dot]com doesn't have any listings. My only concern is I'm in need of 4 doors nowadays. A 235 would be my weekend toy. I keep flip-flopping between a sporty compact or a regular cab swb truck.

Talking about turbo 6s.. have you seen caddy's promo vid for the ATS-V.. wicked.. sub 4 to 60 and sub 9 to 100. 3.6TT (10.2:1 @12+ psi) running the highly acclaimed 8L90 trans (from C7 Z06) in both coupe and sedan configurations.. pushing 450hp/450tq with a curb weight around 3700 lbs. Also big 14.5" rotors in the front and 13.3's in the rear with brembo 6 pots and 4 pots respectively. Magnetic ride control (same from record breaking nurburgring CTS-V). Unfortunately for us.. it's in the +60k msrp. One can dream though. For +60k, I'd get a hellcat.. not nearly as refined but just the thought makes me giggle. :gheylaugh:

N1h1l1ty

Sorry for the thread res / bump,

Looking for some opinions - Just bought an 05 TL AT in November and it has 93 thousand kms (57787 miles). Its been regularly maintained at an Acura dealership but I did not inquire in regards to ATF maintenance.

I'm thinking of going with the Red Line D4 ( ) when I get new transmission pressure switches this coming February and am wondering what procedure I should follow for a transmission fluid swap (I assume the overhaul procedure?)

I might add I'm in Toronto, Canada so I get my share of relatively cold weather and have read that D4 works fairly well in the cold. I'm also wondering weather an ATF filter change is in order.

DuoDSG

I recently did a full ATF fluid exchange from the original Honda Z1 that was in my TL to the recommended 3x3 procedure as outlined in Inaccurate's thread (https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...ng-atf-834299/). Read through it and you will find the following ratio for your Redline fluids:

Lightweight ATF- 4 quarts
Racing ATF- 4 quarts
D4 ATF- 1 quart

Here are your steps for what to put in with each drain and fill:

Refill #1 = 2 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF
Refill #2 = 2 qt Lightweight ATF + 1 qt Racing ATF
Refill #3 = 1 qt D4 + 1 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF

I know what you mean about cold weather- I live in eastern Idaho (northern Utah before that), where we get down to -35 in the winter, and my car is stored outside. My ATF mix has been just fine, with any of these ATF fluid mixtures you don't have to worry about temperature being a problem.

That said, I do have one recommendation- DON'T USE JUST D4. The whole point of getting the old Honda Z1 fluid out is to get that that friction modifier-loaded fluid OUT of your car because it contributes to clutch wear and will lead to a shorter transmission life. D4 has FM in it, and you do need SOME friction modifier (hence why you still use one quart of D4 at the end), and you want to only use ONE quart (as noted in Refill #3 above) and use the other two as well. That way you still get the FM benefits while not filling your transmission with more FM-laden stuff like before.

I followed this 3x3 procedure above when I did it in November (along with the pressure switches) all at once and it went perfectly. I did it all at once and the car has driven wonderfully since- no warnings, no flaring, no awkward or harsh shifts, etc.

Just do what I recommended above (and read Inaccurate's thread- the more you know about it, the more confident you will feel doing it) and your TL's transmission will sing love songs to you for years to come.

I hate cars

One thing I've learned since noticing the first signs of converter clutch failure is a thin fluid is fairly important in a higher mileage transmission. I know that makes no sense, it the opposite of what is usually recommended.

I'm now running a mix of the lightweight racing and D6 to get a thin fluid with little FM. It solved the dragging converter clutch problems I was beginning to have when cold. I'm considering starting a thread on a new viscosity recommendation but I don't think I have the energy to go through another one of those threads.

To clarify, my converter is not bad but now I know the cause behind the converter failures and it's not the converter (probably).

N1h1l1ty

Thank you very much for pointing me in the right direction gentlemen Right now the tranny is running very well (the car has been well taken care of and never driven hard prior to me owning her) but being that I want to prolong the life of the tranny and have performance plans down the road, I figure I might as well be as proactive about it as possible.

Roger Marquez

Hi,

I'm just finishing up a automatic transmission swap and the trans is dry now for the most part.

What fluid ratio/fill procedure do you guys recommend with this used transmission? They said it was a 50k trans.

Thanks

1KLRTOY

Here you go; https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...ng-atf-834299/

DuoDSG

Roger, please make sure you read into that thread that was posted so you see the updated recommendation that Inaccurate posted in his thread. The first post of the thread does NOT reflect the things he learned and he actually adjusted his formula a bit.

Here it is:

ATF mixes:

Refill #1 = 2 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF
Refill #2 = 2 qt Lightweight ATF + 1 qt Racing ATF
Refill #3 = 1 qt D4 + 1 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF

Totals:

Lightweight- 4 quarts
Racing- 4 quarts
D4- 1 quart

Although I just posted it for you, read through the thread because it will make SO much more sense and you'll be more confident with the procedure as you see the thread as it progressed from its original post.

Good luck!

Roger Marquez

But what about starting with a freshly installed used transmission? I guess I'm a little confused as to how much fluid is still in there.

DuoDSG

While I couldn't answer your question about how much fluid is in the new transmission you just installed, using the 3x3 method will get almost all the old fluid out of the engine. Or you can also use the coolant-line method, which is near instant and will get ALL of the old fluid out, but hard to do when you're doing it just yourself since you need someone to turn the engine off the second the fluid changes color (to avoid wrecking your transmission).

A simple forum search and you can find a DIY on it, it seems easy enough but I just did a 3x3 since I felt more confident doing that, and I was by myself when I did my trans fluid change two months ago.

Roger Marquez

I have this leftover from the trans swap. Anyone know what it is/where it goes?



Thanks

Dan King

I know this is an older thread, but I just got my first TL (3rd gen - 2005 with automatic transmission). One owner car with 83,000 miles but lady only had recall stuff done at dealer So I don't have a lot of service history records. Transmission seems to be fine, so how would I know if I need new pressure switches, and where are they located to change? Also wondering if just ok with having dealer do the the drain and refill for $99. I know the fluid costs a lot less but it's already there for them to fix some components as part is the sales agreement.

b15

You can assume they are the original switches and replace them. There's a good DIY on here for it. Both are right by the front wheel just behind the splash shield.

Dealer drain and fill for $99 is pricey, but there's nothing wrong with having them do it. I would have them change the trans filter as part of that $99 as well.