TL clutch do u press it all the way down?Seems I only need to press it 1/3 of the way
#1
TL clutch do u press it all the way down?Seems I only need to press it 1/3 of the way
I have a honda prelude and you had to press it all the way down to shift or risk grinding the gear. I also did it because I thought the clutch fully engage/disengaged by pressing it all the way. The TL 6sp MT seems different I only need to press it in 1/3 of the way and it shifts perfectly fine. The shifter is also short so I can shift between gears fast. Is the pressure point that far "up" on the TL clutch? I realise each clutch is different but to me it seems like the TL clutch might be designed this way?
#3
Registered Member
No, that is not normal. Every manual TL I have driven has an early engagement point in the takeup. First, let's get some terms out of the way.
Clutch pedal travel is the distance the pedal travels from full depression (contact with the slop pad on the firewall) to full release. Clutch takeup is the distance the pedal travels from initial engagement to full engagement. In the manual TL, pedal travel is relatively short and takeup tends to be quite short with significant clamping pressure exerted early on in the takeup.
If your pedal only needs to be depressed 1/3 of the way down in order to make a shift, that means conversely it is 2/3's of the way up in its travel. If this is really the case (you are not exagerating), this is highly unusual and I suspect a potentially serious problem in the making.
As a rule, every manual TL I've driven encounters initial engagement within about 2 inches from the stop pad. There are a few simple tests you can do to determine at what point your clutch is starting to exert enough pressure on the friction disk indicate to you about where engagement is beginning.
With the emergency brake on and the engine warmed up and at idle, put the transmission in first gear with your clutch pedal completely to the floor. Now slowly start to release the clutch (careful here) while watching your tach. As soon as you see a noticeable dip in RPMs (you may also feel the car strain to move forward), note how far up in the travel the pedal was - of course do not leave it in this position.
There are other tests, but try this one first. The point is, engagement should start early on in the travel with a rather short takeup.
BTW. Don't ever perform shifts with less that a completely disengaged clutch. Doing this results in greatly increased wear on the synchronizers and can lead to broken dog teeth.
Clutch pedal travel is the distance the pedal travels from full depression (contact with the slop pad on the firewall) to full release. Clutch takeup is the distance the pedal travels from initial engagement to full engagement. In the manual TL, pedal travel is relatively short and takeup tends to be quite short with significant clamping pressure exerted early on in the takeup.
If your pedal only needs to be depressed 1/3 of the way down in order to make a shift, that means conversely it is 2/3's of the way up in its travel. If this is really the case (you are not exagerating), this is highly unusual and I suspect a potentially serious problem in the making.
As a rule, every manual TL I've driven encounters initial engagement within about 2 inches from the stop pad. There are a few simple tests you can do to determine at what point your clutch is starting to exert enough pressure on the friction disk indicate to you about where engagement is beginning.
With the emergency brake on and the engine warmed up and at idle, put the transmission in first gear with your clutch pedal completely to the floor. Now slowly start to release the clutch (careful here) while watching your tach. As soon as you see a noticeable dip in RPMs (you may also feel the car strain to move forward), note how far up in the travel the pedal was - of course do not leave it in this position.
There are other tests, but try this one first. The point is, engagement should start early on in the travel with a rather short takeup.
BTW. Don't ever perform shifts with less that a completely disengaged clutch. Doing this results in greatly increased wear on the synchronizers and can lead to broken dog teeth.
#4
'05 6MT w/Nav A-Spec
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Yeah I've always thought that a clutch should grab early and that a late bite means a wearing clutch needing replacement. I wasn't sure if this was the same for hydraulic clutches as well.
#5
No, that is not normal. Every manual TL I have driven has an early engagement point in the takeup. First, let's get some terms out of the way.
Clutch pedal travel is the distance the pedal travels from full depression (contact with the slop pad on the firewall) to full release. Clutch takeup is the distance the pedal travels from initial engagement to full engagement. In the manual TL, pedal travel is relatively short and takeup tends to be quite short with significant clamping pressure exerted early on in the takeup.
If your pedal only needs to be depressed 1/3 of the way down in order to make a shift, that means conversely it is 2/3's of the way up in its travel. If this is really the case (you are not exagerating), this is highly unusual and I suspect a potentially serious problem in the making.
As a rule, every manual TL I've driven encounters initial engagement within about 2 inches from the stop pad. There are a few simple tests you can do to determine at what point your clutch is starting to exert enough pressure on the friction disk indicate to you about where engagement is beginning.
With the emergency brake on and the engine warmed up and at idle, put the transmission in first gear with your clutch pedal completely to the floor. Now slowly start to release the clutch (careful here) while watching your tach. As soon as you see a noticeable dip in RPMs (you may also feel the car strain to move forward), note how far up in the travel the pedal was - of course do not leave it in this position.
There are other tests, but try this one first. The point is, engagement should start early on in the travel with a rather short takeup.
BTW. Don't ever perform shifts with less that a completely disengaged clutch. Doing this results in greatly increased wear on the synchronizers and can lead to broken dog teeth.
Clutch pedal travel is the distance the pedal travels from full depression (contact with the slop pad on the firewall) to full release. Clutch takeup is the distance the pedal travels from initial engagement to full engagement. In the manual TL, pedal travel is relatively short and takeup tends to be quite short with significant clamping pressure exerted early on in the takeup.
If your pedal only needs to be depressed 1/3 of the way down in order to make a shift, that means conversely it is 2/3's of the way up in its travel. If this is really the case (you are not exagerating), this is highly unusual and I suspect a potentially serious problem in the making.
As a rule, every manual TL I've driven encounters initial engagement within about 2 inches from the stop pad. There are a few simple tests you can do to determine at what point your clutch is starting to exert enough pressure on the friction disk indicate to you about where engagement is beginning.
With the emergency brake on and the engine warmed up and at idle, put the transmission in first gear with your clutch pedal completely to the floor. Now slowly start to release the clutch (careful here) while watching your tach. As soon as you see a noticeable dip in RPMs (you may also feel the car strain to move forward), note how far up in the travel the pedal was - of course do not leave it in this position.
There are other tests, but try this one first. The point is, engagement should start early on in the travel with a rather short takeup.
BTW. Don't ever perform shifts with less that a completely disengaged clutch. Doing this results in greatly increased wear on the synchronizers and can lead to broken dog teeth.
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#9
Instructor
I think he may be exaggerating his clutch. While I know mine is normal I will concur I don't have to fully depress mine in order to get full disengage every time. It's so strange going from my TL to my Passat because the Passat requires me to almost put the pedal down to the floor (feels that way). It concerned me first time I got back into my Passat after I bought the TL because the last time it did that it meant my clutch slave cylinder was going out.
Yes it doesn't have to be depressed all the way to the floor for each shift but if you have the chance look at where your foot is next time no one is on the road around you and see just where it really is when the clutch is fully engaged. I think you'll find it's much more than just 1/3rd of the way to the floor.
Yes it doesn't have to be depressed all the way to the floor for each shift but if you have the chance look at where your foot is next time no one is on the road around you and see just where it really is when the clutch is fully engaged. I think you'll find it's much more than just 1/3rd of the way to the floor.
#10
I think he may be exaggerating his clutch. While I know mine is normal I will concur I don't have to fully depress mine in order to get full disengage every time. It's so strange going from my TL to my Passat because the Passat requires me to almost put the pedal down to the floor (feels that way). It concerned me first time I got back into my Passat after I bought the TL because the last time it did that it meant my clutch slave cylinder was going out.
Yes it doesn't have to be depressed all the way to the floor for each shift but if you have the chance look at where your foot is next time no one is on the road around you and see just where it really is when the clutch is fully engaged. I think you'll find it's much more than just 1/3rd of the way to the floor.
Yes it doesn't have to be depressed all the way to the floor for each shift but if you have the chance look at where your foot is next time no one is on the road around you and see just where it really is when the clutch is fully engaged. I think you'll find it's much more than just 1/3rd of the way to the floor.
#11
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