Majofo

That sucks.. I hope you got your own rooms when you got there. I would have gone MIA if I were in your shoes.


My buddies buddy delivered his blues.. Rest in peace Chris.

Majofo

18 years to be specific?..

Vegas will kick you in the beans, take you out back and bend you over. Had a blast the last trip (from what I remember). Some guy who looked like you, came to talk to my wife and SIL at Marquee. BIL and I were talking about four feet away.. I pointed in the little guys direction.. we laughed and waited. Our girls at one point, pointed that poor soul to our direction. His eyes lit up like he was going to get his ass kicked and thrown in the pool.. we had fun with him and sent him on his way. lol. We got in free with booth, but were paying $20 / drink + tip. We should have bought a bottle.


Sounds about right.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

haha I remember you telling me that LOL....

yeah some fellas just dont get it....when in STL, we were @ Home nightclub in Ameristar Casino (always got in for free ) and I went to get a drink for my girl and when I came back some desi dude was trying to dance with her....she kept trying to push him away but that guy just wanted some...even when I got on the floor and gave her the drink he was trying to dance with her....

at times I dont blame them too much....not sure if they got any action back in India/Pakistan....am pretty sure many would act that way if they felt "am out of the cage and am free now"....wish they had a little more common sense though....

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Majofo. You changed my story. It's different in the quote. Right? I am really not too clear on the details anymore...
and really unclear on how you know what underwear I wear.

I hate cars

Oh wow, that's awesome. By far one of the best books I've read, in fact I just started reading it for a second time. Chris is a true American hero, we need more people like him. I even bought a .338 Lapua lol.

I hate cars

Probably like this but worse lol. I blame it on the weight of the subs. Without them I would have smoked the GN.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Matt, I have Torque pro plugged into the OBDII port and I have been getting weird voltage readings recently....been going all over the place from 11.1 to 14.2 volts....

My 11lb braille battery is located under the passenger seat. Any suggestions? (I will be getting a 18-21lb battery once winter begins (~6 months)). Do you think any voltage stabilizers or ground kits will help?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=ObrQcs75i1k#!

I hate cars

Lol. I think that conversation has probably happened a few times in real life.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I don't know why it didn't embed, but I bet it has. Friggin HILARIOUS!

1) I wish I had a GN...
2) I wish I knew enough about motor and restoration and building to have a GN and make it beautiful.

There's something so cool about being Denzel Washington (yes, I know it's a Monte, but the body style) in Training Day and then going and spanking most of the local talent.

Majofo

You bought a 338 lapua rifle?!.. dios mio. I wish the wife would let me. I've been wanting to shoot long range. Even if I had the money for a decent rifle, I couldn't afford a decent scope. Even if I could swing for a rifle and scope, I'd be begging for rounds.

What rifle did you get, Armalite, Sako?

I just put together an AR15 in 556 with a mid length piston upper and MCV Voodoo barrel. Just got a couple of 42 round mags too.. If only I can afford ammo.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Get in touch with Jeff (sauceja)...he usually knows the places to order all sorts of ammo from and it's usually at a great price.

I don't have to worry about that with my measly little Glock 19

Majofo

Cheap and 338 Lapua are never in the same sentence, unless it's this sentence.

Only affordable way to shoot it often is to reload from what I hear.. otherwise, be accustomed to paying $5 - $10 / rd. It's cheaper to shoot 50 BMG.

Also.. Glock 19.. isn't that a ladies gun?

jk.. that's usually the go to gun that I have my buddies shoot who haven't shot before. I prefer CZ 75 P07 to it or M&P9, but still a decent gun. Nothing beats an all steel frame chambered in 45.

I hate cars

I got a Savage. There was no way I could pay over $4k plus $2k for a scope plus $5 a round on a good day. I bought some once fired brass which was still expensive. Reloading is a must with this gun. I plan to spend 1-$200 a month indefinitely on ammo. In 30 years ill have a good supply lol. Lets hope the muzzle brake does its job.

I hate to say it because now it seems like I'm trying to copy what Chris used but the 300 Win Mag seems like a much more practical gun. The cost of the gun, cost and availability of ammo, probably barrel life. The ballistics are ok. I'm looking at the 338 as something to use if all goes to hell but I could afford to actually have fun with the 300 instead of shooting $5 bills. My father has a 308 already but I think the 300 would be a significant upgrad in nearly every category.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Majofo

We have a 30-06 and 308 in storage. My father and I used to hunt every season when we lived up north. I didn't like hunting as much as I liked shooting. He'd do a yearly elk hunting trip in Montana during the winter. I think if he shot 300 WM, he'd be bringing them back in chunks.

300 WM is bad ass. Depending on the barrel thickness and length, I'm sure it's a lot more portable. Ammo is much cheaper that's for sure.

Just looked up the Savage.. nice.

breck569

iTrader: (1)

Back to the subject of the thread. Im having this exact problem, it started this summer. Even when i go out at night and drive, my car barely moves off the line. I currently have a bosch battery in my TL and i believe it has the same problem.

Also my hfl has been out for a while and i just removed plug today, ive heard that kills batteries? I guess ill take it to pepboys tomorrow, its walking distance.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

^^^ battery won't be the issue. Some TLs just suffer from this problem and some don't. It's the weirdest thing that no one can figure out. You either have a good one or a bad one.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

I had it last summer but this summer was great, even in 100F weather it didnt have the power surge

breck569

iTrader: (1)

I guess you guys are right, they tested my battery and all was good 12.61V 739cca (rated at 700). I really thought this was my problem, but i guess not. Ill have to make my exhaust quiter then, cause im looking loud and slow.

Shoot2Thrill

Look to the purge valve. Funny yesterday the 04 had the battery go. I roll started and the car drove great. I believe once the alternator boosts the voltage the battery is a non-issue. No issue this year on surge with either and the 08 which has the original "bad" purge. I think just a tap every once in a while helps free the sticky solenoid but that is a just a educated guess.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I have never experience surging....or being "powerless" since I relocated my IAT (intake air temp sensor)....

also, I believe the issue is not the battery but a bad ground....a bad ground can cause many issues.....I ordered some 4AWG wire from Amazon and some connecting ends and replaced all my ground connections....

battery to chassis
engine block to chassis
transmission to chassis

Never had any issues....


Here is the post which explains how to relocate the sensor, just incase someone is wondering....PS: I keep a close eye on knock....and never had pinging issues....I recommend you keep an eye on knock as well.....


(just in case you are wondering why keep an eye on knock....well think about it, if the intake temp is 100degs and the relocated sensor reads 75deg, the computer is going to advance the timing, if there is knock due to hot air, the ECU will retard a ton of timing and you will be back in the "no power" zone)


https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...1&postcount=81

pohljm

Here is my grounding upgrade thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-photograph-gallery-96/hyper-voltage-grounding-kit-install-606115/

I have never had any issues.

Chad05TL

I had an 89 Honda Accord about 5 years ago for a 2nd car, and it had a surging idle when it was cold. I vaguely remember reading about it and some article online said there was something in the exhaust manifold. But I have no idea what it was or if it was a true fix. I know one thing though.. If my car did that, I would reset the computer and start it and go give it hell. haha I would drive it the way I wanted to it learn.. I would drive it the way I want it to run. But it may not help.

it sounds like a timing issue.. You know all these cars now have electronic timing advance. It's like one of the sensors is not reading right, and thus the timing stays low. Its suppose to kick up when you gun it. I remember running with a little bit of "advanced timing" on a carburetor system. It always ran faster when you advance the timing a little bit. The old cars were vacuum advance.. but the EFI are all computer controlled I think.. But other than checking sensors, I would have not idea what causes this problem. As I stated, my 89 Accord had that problem when it was cold and I never figured it out.. but then again, I didn't spend much time or money on fixing it.. because it only did it when it was cold.. not hot. So I was fortunate. It could have been an IAC issue. (idle air control valve)

I hate cars

This thread is about a problem I had since the car was 2 years old that was helped with the battery replacement and eventually cured by a bad factory crimp that also caused the alternator to go out. There's no doubt this works if you're having the same problem I was and battery voltage does not tell the whole story and the alternator does not make the battery irrelevant.

Chad05TL

which crimp

I hate cars

The alternator charging wire at the fuse box. After a cold start it burned me when I found it 2-3 minutes after staring the engine. It looked perfect and there was little voltage drop but under load it had a lot of resistance and I'm sure it only got worse as it got super heated. This also caused the alternator to go to full output at all times. The car drives so nice now. It's had a ton of 95+ degree days and several 105 degree days. It loses power as every car does in the heat but its a normal loss and there no surging. At one time a was flooring it from every light on a 100 degree day to keep up with traffic. Idle is smoother, I'm guessing because the alt isn't pulling its full 3 hp potential all the time and loading it down.

BukvaMan

Ever since i replaced my EGR valve things have been much better. I haven't experienced any surging issues either. I went as far as replacing all the ignition coils as well and that made the car idle much better. However the power loss from heat is still very present, not as bad as it used to be but still very annoying. I fell in love with a new car which is the audi S4 and hopefully soon will own one. I still dont feel like selling the TL because it is in such good shape for a car that is almost 8 years old and only has 50 000 miles on it.

There is one new thing that I have found out tough. If i disconnect the IAT sensor long enough to cause a check engine light, plug it back in, turn on the car and take it for a drive. With the check engine light being on, she drives like a dream. The acceleration is so much smoother and more responsive. If i could keep it that way I wouldnt change a thing. Im not really sure what goes on in the ECU while the check engine light is on but it works. The check engine light goes off after two to three starts and goes back to original which is nowhere near as pleasant to drive.

I wonder what it could be...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ I wouldnt drive with the IAT plug disconnected....it will cause more harm....

when the sensor is disconnected, the ECU sees the air temp as -39degs....

I would highly suggest you MOVE the sensor, but dont leave it disconnected....

BukvaMan

Its not disconnected while i drive the car. I only disconnect it to cause a check engine light and plug it back in. Until the check engine light goes off it drives like a dream . Back to normal and its not that great.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ so you start the car...unplug the connector, wait for CEL and then drive off?

wont the ECU catch up? once you plug it back in, the ECU should cycle and the CEL should go off in couple miles....do you do this every day?

Scottwax

Heat mortally wounds batteries, cold kills them off. Every time I've lost a battery, its been during cold (well, cold for the Dallas area) and not warm.

I hate cars

One thing I can say is my car seems to be on the lean side, always has. I believe running so lean is the symptom, I just don't know the cause. The 02 sensor is the check and balances of the system but if the 02 is not getting the correct reference or the target AF is off, it might be running lean.

If unplugging the IAT makes it read 39 degrees, at first it would seem bad because it might add timing but at the same time it will probably add fuel too.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

my OBD scanner and Innovative LM2 read as -39degs when the IAT is not connected....hell my Torque also alarms "Caution, ICY conditions" thinking its freezing COLD out there LOL....


also have you checked the AFR using OBD scanner or using a Wideband sensor, because I have been comparing both using Innovative LM2 and they are kinda off....

I thought I was running lean as well, but I have been running kinda perfect, I idle at 14.2-14.3....~14.8-15.0 while coasting and higher 12.8-13.x at WOT

I hate cars

I didn't see the negative there. So -39 degrees lol. I assume that's at the end of it's range in that direction?

I've looked at the AFR with a secondary sensor and along with the spark plugs and recent smog test it's running lean. The factory sensor has everything looking normal for the most part. Full throttle and in vtec has never been a problem for me, just everything below full throttle and vtec. In fact, when it used to be at it's worst, when vtec hit, it felt like you hit a few psi of boost. The car would have such little power and I'm guessing since it goes richer in vtec it straightened out and made normal power. It was a pretty good kick in the ass when it kicked in.

I guess on the bright side, the piston tops looked almost free of any carbon and the car runs good now. I almost forgot, I did an EGR block off which helped a bit with surging. I have a CEL which sucks and I was worried about having more pinging but since the ECU can detect flow, when it sees none maybe the timing is no longer advanced when it calls for EGR.

I may end up changing out all of the 02 sensors since it's got 121,000 on it now. They can be off by a bit before a check engine light is set and if both sensors get off by the same amount they can be off by quite a bit before a CEL is thrown.

I feel like replacing the battery helped for sure but it also covered up the underlying problem, the bad crimp on the alternator charging wire.

On a side note, after replacing the battery, my key fob would work from farther away. I noticed this the first time I replaced the battery too. This lasted a few days and went back to normal. After fixing the alternator and cable, my alarm works from far away, as far as any other brand. It used to have about a 10-15' range. Now it works over 25' away consistently. Sometimes when I was going to bed I couldn't remember if I had locked the car so I would hit the alarm from the bedroom but could never hear the alarm beep in the garage. I figured I just couldn't hear it but now I can hear it from the back of the house so it was never reaching that far before.

breck569

iTrader: (1)

hey guys, im pretty sure my o2 sensors went bad since i put on pcd. Can that affect performance at all?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Matt, yes changing the battery will get better range out of the car when it comes to locking unlocking and alarm of the car....

I have 176K and the O2 sensors and they seem fine....before spending $$ on changing, I just recommend a nice cleaning and running some seafoam/cleaner of your choice....

yes -39 is the end of the range....thats what the least voltage reads....

finally, VTEC is only a problem when you are heavily heat soaked....you will get serious pinging if the engine is under stress, HOT, under load, rich afr and trying to advance timing (all of which occur when you hit vtec)....

BukvaMan

I unplug the sensor while the key is in the second position. I wait till it trips the check engine light and then plug the sensor back. It takes couple of turn on/off for the check engine to go away but it drives great during that time. What happens i dont know.

I dont do it often either but just sometimes to see the difference.

I hate cars

Lol. My car will never see Seafoam, not a chance. O2 sensors drift over time and they get lazy. While mine aren't outright bad, the car might be prone to running lean. With a lean condition, the additional fuel enrichment during vtec overcomes any timing advance issues. Mine has rarely shown any pinging in vtec, only at part throttle and lower rpms. As of this summer, mine is completely good. It drives like it did when new. The problem was fixed 6 months ago but I needed to wait till summer to prove it. Plus I might see of the Acura OEM widebands are compatible with my GN's ECU so having a couple decent used sensors laying around would be good for experimenting in case I kill one of them.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

yes...depending on the sensor which went out....(i usually confuse the two) but either the upstream or the downstream sensor does the fuel trim....so if the sensor which is doing the fuel trim has gone bad or getting fouled reading the performance will suffer....

aaah ok....i thought you were driving around hence asked....

not sure what the ECU does there LOL....



I like Seafoam not sure if its a gimmick or in my head or not even sure what but my heads looked clean as a whistle even after 175K miles....I did not inspect the piston heads/etc...

and glad you dont see pinging in vtec....and am thinking out loud here....correct me if am wrong....
all sensors are the same when they come to reporting the voltage, right? (Bosch sensors generally) you can buy a generic sensor and just splice the wires and connect them to the OEM wires, right? so the GN sensors should work if the thread pitch is correct, right?