1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

Howdy folks. I'm flying out to go test drive a 6MT type-s this weekend. While I know how to drive a stick shift, my only experience was in my saturn which I only drove for a year. I had a new clutch put in right before I bought it.

Does anyone have any clues or indications on what to look/feel for when test driving a clutch and stick? I've never driven an MT TL nor have I ever felt a slipping or worn clutch before.

The TL has 103k miles.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^is it I_love_car's modified TL?

first thing first...the TL's clutch is VERY tricky to begin with.
you'll no doubt have trouble in first and 2nd gears, Especially not driving one in a while, it will be difficult.

the best way to test for a slipping clutch would be to get it on the free way in 5th or 6th gear...and floor it. if RPMs go up but not speed, thats an indication of a slipping clutch

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

NBP04TL4ME

Pick up point on the clutch pedal is likely your best indicator. The TL in general has a very low or early pick up point (where it engages). Ideally you would have more MT experience and/or have had the opportunity to drive other TLs.
I had been driving MT cars for 20 years before getting my 04 TL and it took a bit to adjust to the early pick up point.
Others AZ members may have different things to look out for.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

No somebody beat me to it and put a deposit on it already. I am heartbroken, I felt like the guy who had a winning lottery ticket and lost it.
This TL is stock, sitting at a dealership. The sales man told me if we can work out a deal he's willing to take my trade and have his service guys transfer all my mods over and my A-Spec kit(NPB to NBP).

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

freaking wacky engagement point, i hate it!!!!

because of the dual mass flywheel and the clutches ability to self adjust, the engagement point is SO tricky.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing that's why people do the cylinder mod?
Sorry if I'm ignorant I've never had a need to look up MT specific mods.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

sort of.
the slave cylinder check valve limits fluid during quick shifts. thats what Acura says anyways.
what we have found, is that by removing the check valve it provides a nicer transition from 1st to 2nd.

that is all. it wont change the engagement point....
you can, however, change the pedal height to get a different engagement point, but this route has its limitation as you're unscrewing the rod that goes into the Master Cylinder...

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

That's odd because I definately do not agree with this. The TL absolutely does not have a low catch point. Well atleast the three of them I have owned didn't anyway lol. Unless my definition of "catching low" is different than yours. The clutches in all three of my manual Type S's engaged and felt identical. The clutch would begin to grab at about half way to 3/4 of the way up and your completely done with the engagement at clutch pedal full out.


And to the OP, as mentioned the TL manual is very tricky to get used to. So don't get discouraged right away if you get pissed off because it's difficult to drive. Test the clutch as others mentioned above.
The only other thing to check is if it has any third gear issues. Some have a slight grind going into third, and some have also been known to pop out of third. If this happens it's not the end of the world. The GM fluid will take care of that with no problems at all.

FamilyGuy

How? The TL has a self-adjusting clutch...mine, at 80k miles, still had the same engagement point as when I bought it with 59k miles, which is likely the same engagement point as the day it rolled off the showroom (~1/4 to 1/3 way from bottom up on pedal travel).


To the OP - when you test drive it, tell the seller you want to make sure engine, clutch and transmission are running good, so you'd like to run out one gear with a shift into the next and then finish the test drive normally. Jump on the highway and when in 3rd gear punch it and quick shift to 4th gear punching it again as soon as you shift (or on the 2nd to 3rd gear shift if that's too fast for you). Any hiccups with engine, or a slipping clutch, you'll feel it. When you shift to 4th, if the clutch slips, your RPMs will shoot up towards redline as if you missed a shift and it's in neutral. If this happens, simply let off the gas (still in 4th gear) and you'll feel the clutch grab once the RPMs drop and match the car's speed. If this happens, you either need a new clutch or master cylinder, or both.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

Three years later, I've finally found another 6MT Type-S close by. It has 161k miles, two owners, and a clean carfax. $9800 after TTL.
The miles don't bother me, and neither does needing to change the clutch, but I don't want the clutch wont go out on me on the 300 mile drive home.
However I won't be able to drive out and see the car for another week, so I'm debating on dropping a deposit on it. Anyone have any opinions about it?

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I say go for it.

truonghthe

clutch wont go out on you like alternator or battery IF you driving normal like everyone else on the road.

NBP04TL4ME

How do you know it needs a new clutch? And like truongthe mentioned, drive it normally on the way home. Highly unlikely clutch would fail once you are on the highway and in 6th gear. As I'm sure you know, wear and tear happens when starting in first and to a lesser extent when changing gears. Disclaimer is we don't know the current condition or prior drivers or do we?

nfnsquared

I have 268K on the original clutch and still going

srg818

If you still have the check valve in the slave cylinder, this procedure will put wear on your clutch.

Quick shifting with immediate full throttle after engaging the next gear doesn't give the check valve enough time for it to fully disengage the clutch, resulting in slight clutch slippage. What you may notice is the RPMs may pause for a second before rising again, all while under WOT. I understand Honda's decision with the check valve and how it's meant to delay the transfer of clutch fluid and decrease drive-line shock but 'spirited driving' will put a hurt on your clutch if you haven't removed that check valve.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I couldn't agree more with your assessment.

DMZ

I have 268K on my 2nd clutch and still going

Then again, I'm in the NYC area where traffic reigns unlike North Dakota!
.
.

Ceaze

If you love the car and feel it's the one go for it before next thing and someone puts a deposit on it like the previous one.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

Done! I put my deposit on it today.

Im going to go pick up the car next weekend!

ReMiXeDg

You should be good with getting home the clutch shouldn't go on you as long as you dont beat on it or abuse taking off on first gear etc.

Post a photo of the car when you get the chance to do. Also check out partsgeek you can get clutch kit with the dual mass flywheel for our cars for a decent price that shouldn't brake your wallet.