naser075

first of all , hello and thank you for all replies.

Ok so i have a 2005 acura tl 58 000 km (36000 miles).

I was wondering if it is possible to switch to synthetic oil , knowing that the previous owner never did putt synthetic.

Also if i do what are the pro's are there any con's. Will it change anything for me. Our winters are very cold here in CAnada some days it get's -45 celcius.
I am not a hard driver and keep in mind i drive about 16 000 km ( 10500 miles) a year 50% highway and 50% city.

TLin05

No reason not to switch... I've always regarded synthetic oil as (relatively) cheap insurance. I run Pennzoil Synthetic with Mobil 1 filter and change both every 5,000 miles. There's really no difference in the way an engine runs with synthetic vs. non IMO. You may notice a slight increase in fuel economy.

I hate cars

Extreme heat and extreme cold is where synthetics shine.

For your temps I would get a nice 0w-20 synthetic. While you're spending the money and since you live in Canada, you can get a "real" synthetic like Redline for the same price as Mobil One or PP.

Redline will flow as well or better than any other 0w-20 yet protect better than most 30wts.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

No problem switching to, or switching back between oils.

Pz_

I've always wondered about making the switch to synthetic. I just never did enough homework on it to know the differences in all of them. I know there are full synthetics and partials, and I know the prices don't necessarily follow in line with quality. So I just stuck with junky old regular oil.

You can go longer between oil changes with synthetics right?

naser075

So I guess i'll go synthetic. Thank you all. Last thing what kind of oil would be
best for me considering our beautifull climat

I hate cars

You can go longer between changes.

They stand up to extreme heat better.

Usually require less viscosity index improvers.

Flow much better when cold.

Usually have premium add packages.

A true top of the line group V ester like Redline has natural cleaning abilities from the base oil iteslf, sticks to parts better, holds up to heat much, much better than other synthetics, has a higher HTHS for a given viscosity which is very important.

Redline also retains it's viscosity longer and is easier on seals. It contains tons of moly, Zinc, and Phosphorus. It has an ultra low NOACK volatility of 6 for most if it's line meaning it won't get past rings or evaporate through the PCV system and cause deposits like others.

While it's overkill, if you're going to spend the money for a synthetic, you might as well go all out on a real synthetic.

I hate cars

Redline 0w-20 or 5w-20 if you want the best.

If you want to save a few bucks, any of the common SM rated oils will be fine like Mobil One, Pennzoil Platinum, Amsoil (especially the SSO), etc. It's just that Redline is practically in a class of it's own.

georgegiorgio

How's Redline?

I'm considering it for my next oil change... next April...

Pz_

From the sounds of it, I would guess pretty bad ass. That stuff does all kinds of things that regular oil doesn't do. I'm going to try that stuff next time around. Thanks for all the info Grand National guy.

jerome736

Just curious, would this be reflected in the MID calculations for oil % as well?

01tl4tl

the mid is set for 7500 miles--and doesnt know what oil you run- its counting time above idle rpm and miles
running MOST synthetics past 7500 is not safe
IF you get an analysis done and know its still good- then ok
BUT most oils are designed for their additives to last about 8000 miles, as car makers have fallen inline with govt mandates and made 7500 the standard number---oil makers make a product that matches
Some oils may be dead at 6000 or less!

I hate cars

MID is just a calculation and it's based on a dino oil. It doesn't actually sample the oil. It factors in total engine revolutions (not mileage), cold starts, warm up cycles, highest temps, starting temps, load, rpm, etc. If you run a synthetic and go by the MID, you can be assured you have a large safety cushion.

jtsangAZ

i am using syntheticoil too lol. M1 5w30 w/ m1 filter. So far so good

naser075

To be honest i have never heard of them but you seem to be promoting them alot ,..do u work for them by any chance.

naser075

Also would it matter if i use regular dealer filters with the synthetic oil or do ivhave to get a special oil filter when changing to synthetic. The reason why am asking i deal with a guy who works at Honda and does side jobs for a living so i normally always brought him all my parts when i had somethign to do

94eg!

Avoid the Honda brand filters. They are made by Honeywell (maker of Fram) and are internally identical to the crappy $3 fram filters. Cardboard end-caps and all...

Pretty much anything but Honda & Fram are decent. I still use Mobil-1 filters. The only Honda filter I would consider would be the larger S2000 filter. It will fit no problem and is NOT made by Honeywell...

Meek32v6

iTrader: (7)

Its not something you would see on the shelf at your average autopart store
Its used mostly on racing application like royal purple or people with big HP mods. It benefits you more because of you local weather conditions being one of those extremes - the cold

ml3456

Synthetic is the way to go!! Ran Mobil 1 ( A full synthetic, 100,000 miles in the test engines at work and could put it back in. Sounds like different base stock (Polyalphaolefins or PAO's) from Red Line). Just change you filter regularly. When out of warranty i changed my oil in April and November (avoided winter!) and filters in between.

The synthetics have great shear load ability, but our engines don't need it like high valve load engines (think back to Yamaha SHO motor. It cold tear conventional oils apart.)

The only thing to watch for is any seal leakage. They won't necessarily hurt the seals, but they can "slip" out between sealing surfaces worn in to conventional oils.

But as said before, best advantage is hot and cold weather. It doesn't thicken up like conventional oils in winter even though they are multi-weight, or thin down too much in hot weather. Stay with the manufacturers recommended oil viscosity to maintain your warranty though. Using 0W30 vs 5W30 really only applies for the first few minutes while the engine heats up, which ours do very quickly.

naser075

So what you are saying is i should use synthetic but use dealer recommended. i think Acura recommends 5w30 or am i wrong.

01tl4tl

some years the book says 5-20 others are 5-30 It was for some bs usa CAFE standards which have now been revised to different method

the oil numbers: the first number is measured at 32F degrees, unlikely your engine gets that cold on a summer night
The W stands for winter- which is for the first number/viscosity

the 2nd number is the viscosity at 200-220F normal operating temp
Neither is real as additives are put in to make it work like the low number when needed and the high number normally

Then the differance between fully synthetic with the better base stock vs ~synthetic or synthetic blend- oils must be considered based on your actual usage

01tl4tl

try looking at the oil cap- it says whats recommended for normal temps

naser075

Hmmm so what would your recommendation be for our harsh winters and hot summers here in Canada

I hate cars

Actually it's -35C and 100C. There's also the 40C number in the specs. What would be nice is if they provided something that would be more beneficial in the real world for real climates like a 32F rating you mention. People don't realize that during a winter 32F startup a 0w-30 can actually be thicker than a 5w-30.

The additives you mention are pour point depressants and viscosity index improvers. The VIIs actually reduce the robustness of the oil. That's why Redline is so good, every weight they make except for the 0w-40 has no VIIs which is a very good thing.

I hate cars

Actually, Redline is a POE, one step up from a PAO.

The manuals are dumbed down because they have to be for CAFE standards. They try and push the one weight fits all climates but I don't believe it. With a 20 degree oil temp change it will go up or down one full grade. I live in a place that rarely sees winters below freezing and plenty of 105+ degree days. I run a 30 wt oil because it's as thin as a 20wt in some of the colder climates. In the end, the 20wts will do just fine. I want that little extra.

naser075

I also found another brand called LUCAS oil products Inc.
Any suggestions about this one

I hate cars

I would stay away. It's used a little in the racing world. Haven't heard anything good about it though.

Littlerob

Okay so it uses 4.5 qts and basically as long as its not a cheap one/is the correct one its good? And do any of you run that s2000 filter from lets say any other brand that isnt the dealer brand?

j1n

iTrader: (1)

94eg!

Yes it fits/works fine. From mobil-1 it's the M1-104.

I hate cars

To add to the list, Amsoil EAO20 is the S2000 filter.

Wish I could remember the RP number that I'm using.

naser075

Guys and Girls from what I see here, there is no stupid question asked.
I want to thank all of you for your quick replies and knowledgeable information you have provided me about my question. i hope this thread can help all of you.

One last thing my friend has a BMW 535 and he tells me the dealer told him he has to change oil every 20000 km. what the hell are they using that they are so confident on changing oil every 20000km

I hate cars

BMW was recommending extended drains, up to 20K miles actually. I believe they have changed that recommendation on most of them though.

Most BMWs hold twice as much oil as our TLs so they can go almost twice as for on a change from that fact alone. BMW also specifies a very specific approved oil that will go the distance. That oil is pretty expensive and North American consumers were deviating and running whatever brand they wanted. The result was sludging and engine failures. Not really BMW's fault.

There are a number of oils that will go that distance. Mobil 1 0w-40, many of Amsoil's offerings, Redline, German Castrol, and more.

Dima1978

Well, you will add 1 qt of fresh oil every month ... and that is how it lasts that long. The magic oil is Castrol (Almost synthetic) type. I have a prize winning m54 in my X5 -- the oil is shut by 10k km.(5w30) I think 5w40 will be better.
Is diesel m1 5w-40 compatible to gasoline engines. Why do they market it for diesels so heavily?

ballerjai

I believe everything "I hate cars" says

108tls

i don't think anyone here is promoting redline oil, but if you are the type of person like some of us here, wanting the best for money they spent on synthetic then you would want to do some research and understand. redline oil has very limited advertisement and it is very well known in the racing circles and mostly by word of mouth in the general driving publics.

shotgunnar

because of the turbo charged diesels.When its cold the turbo bearings really tighten up and thats when they need oil the most,so 5w is the choice to get the turbo lubed up in the shortest amt of time.5w40 for the massive pressures generated on the crank bearings.Mine would run at 40lbs boost,and some guys ran 55-60.Cummins actually moved the turbo closer to the oil pump for that reason.That is what I ran in my 06 3500 w/donaldson filters.Changed the oil every 15k with a filter change every 7.5k

Dima1978

i have found out that bmw doesnt recommend the use of 5w-40 ll-04 type in gasoline engines, US only. Euro gets an ok! US has too much alcohol in gas!

Also, is 0w30 amsoil the same grade as 0-30 redline? Redline is only 50c more.

1oser

I have an 08 TL-S, and it's coming up on 30K. I was thinking about switching to Redline, but I was just curious which one I should go with.

5W20? 5W30? 10W30? Does it make that much of a difference? I'm curious which one is recommended (given it is the Type-S). I'm in the midwest (Chicago area), meaning temperatures are all over the place...


Thanks!

I hate cars

5w-20 or 5w-30.

When it comes to Redline, the 10w-30 is obsolete as it's only there for people who insist on it and to sell more oil. In most other brands, the 10w version is more robust and more shear resistant the the 5w version. With redline, there are no VIIs added to either oil and they have the same HTHS rating. I wish I would've known this before I ordered the 10w-30 that's in my car now. With the 5w-30 you get the same hot protection and slightly better cold flow. In reality they're very, very close in flow.