Spring 2018 refresh
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Spring 2018 refresh
Hey Gang,
Well, I just pulled the trigger on the remaining parts for my spring refresh of my 2006 TL; so far I either have on hand or have ordered the following parts:
Am I missing anything?
Regards,
Horseshoez
Well, I just pulled the trigger on the remaining parts for my spring refresh of my 2006 TL; so far I either have on hand or have ordered the following parts:
- LuK Clutch Kit
- LuK Dual Mass Flywheel
- LuK Clutch Slave Cylinder (I'm going to be doing CDV delete before getting under the car)
- Duralast Gold axles (thanks EvilVirus)
- SKF Rear Hub (x2)
- Pirelli Cinturato P7 235/45 R17 (has anybody else noticed these tires have about a 1" wider tread width than anything else out there including 245/45 R17 tires?)
- OEM Right Rear Engine Mount
- OEM Right Engine Mount
- OEM Front Engine Mount
- OEM Front Transmission Mount
- OEM Rear Transmission Mount
- OEM Upper Transmission Mount
- OEM Stabilizer Bar Bushing (x2)
- OEM Stabilizer End Link Left
- OEM Stabilizer End Link Right
Am I missing anything?
Regards,
Horseshoez
#2
Suzuka Master
well well, I think you and I are on the same page since I will be refresh my TL-S also.
How is your LCA bushing?
How is your LCA bushing?
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#4
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LCA bushings - 3 each including the Compliance ones
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Front Stabilizer Links
Front Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Headlight Bulbs
Cabin Filter (changed each Spring)
After 14 years and 280K miles, I think I'm due, don't you?
.
.
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My refresh this coming week:
LCA bushings - 3 each including the Compliance ones
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Front Stabilizer Links
Front Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Headlight Bulbs
Cabin Filter (changed each Spring)
After 14 years and 280K miles, I think I'm due, don't you?
.
.
LCA bushings - 3 each including the Compliance ones
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Front Stabilizer Links
Front Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Headlight Bulbs
Cabin Filter (changed each Spring)
After 14 years and 280K miles, I think I'm due, don't you?
.
.
#6
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Yes, but the lower control arms were replaced at the dealer under warranty as the original compliance bushings were cracked at 11K miles, so I really only have 269K on them.
According to Jon, the parts manager at Park Ave Acura, 6MT's are harder on them than 5AT's.
.
.
According to Jon, the parts manager at Park Ave Acura, 6MT's are harder on them than 5AT's.
.
.
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Yeah, 6MTs can be harder on all of the soft bits of the suspension, especially when driving aggressively. The flip side is I've found if one is smooth, the suspension components can actually last longer than cars with automatic transmissions.
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I'm budgeting a long weekend. Studying videos and manuals, once the sub frame is dropped, everything else should be pretty easy. That said, I have heard anecdotal reports which caution not to use too much torque to release the sub frame bolts as the nuts are welded to the body, and if you use too much torque, you can break them loose. A friend owns a local shop so I've arranged to work on it there so I'll have a lift, engine cradle and transmission jack at my disposal. They didn't have the Self-Adjusting Clutch Adjustment tool kit, so I bought that and will bring it along to use. I also bought a new Clutch Slave Cylinder and performed the Clutch Delay Valve removal yesterday (I created a pictorial thread showing the process).
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Link to thread?
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Here you go.
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Suzuka Master
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Yeah, having access to the lift is decidedly a bonus. As an extra bonus, the guy who owns the shop was an Acura tech back in 2005.
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So, I just placed the final order for my refresh, namely the Clutch Tool Kit for Self Adjusting Clutches, and then added everything up; yeesh, kinda put a dent in this year's bonus. Total cost for the parts was $2,088.33, plus another $92.35 for shipping. All in all I suppose this isn't too bad given these parts should keep my car in top running condition for quite a few more years.
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I look forward to hearing about your results! I'm debating a similar refresh (or at least, some of the motor mounts and a few bushings) for my '05 6M with ~181k on it... I'm hoping new mounts will eliminate rough shifts and that some new bushings will tighten up the steering.
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I look forward to hearing about your results! I'm debating a similar refresh (or at least, some of the motor mounts and a few bushings) for my '05 6M with ~181k on it... I'm hoping new mounts will eliminate rough shifts and that some new bushings will tighten up the steering.
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Maybe rough isn't quite the right word... I notice that the car tends to lurch a bit when starting from a stop, and on my 1-2 shifts I feel a slight shudder upon clutch engagement. I'd imagine that to be the engine shifting as it engages the wheels, sometimes I feel like I have to be more sensitive with the clutch to keep everything as smooth as I think it should be. I don't notice these issues in higher gears unless I come off the clutch particularly quickly. Compared to many other (particularly newer) cars I've driven I find that the shifts just feel clunky, as if the powertrain isn't "tight" or something. It's not terrible, in fact is comparable to my former '07 Civic that had 140k on it when I sold it, but I'd like it to be better. My car is certainly driveable every day, just an annoyance. Does that make sense?
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Yeah, I saw your other post and combined with this description I think I understand. When my engine is cold immediately following a cold start, I too have some clunky shifting. I've always attributed it to the fact the engine is idling above its normal RPM range during the warm up process. It will be interesting to see if this changes when I get the new mounts in there.
Funny thing, I wasn't planning on doing the mounts, just the clutch, however, several folks chimed in here to say the pain in the ass motor and tranny mount replacement job is pretty much a cake walk with the sub frame lowered. Given the sub frame needs to come down for the clutch job, I figured I'd just bite the bullet and do the mounts, even if some or all of the mounts don't yet need replacing. As a side note, I also bought a new slave cylinder and deleted the Clutch Delay Valve (thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...linder-967640/); I'm expecting virtually no improvement in clutch action in easy moderate driving, but when I get on it, I'm hoping for a dramatic improvement in clutch response.
Funny thing, I wasn't planning on doing the mounts, just the clutch, however, several folks chimed in here to say the pain in the ass motor and tranny mount replacement job is pretty much a cake walk with the sub frame lowered. Given the sub frame needs to come down for the clutch job, I figured I'd just bite the bullet and do the mounts, even if some or all of the mounts don't yet need replacing. As a side note, I also bought a new slave cylinder and deleted the Clutch Delay Valve (thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...linder-967640/); I'm expecting virtually no improvement in clutch action in easy moderate driving, but when I get on it, I'm hoping for a dramatic improvement in clutch response.
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Yeah, I saw your other post and combined with this description I think I understand. When my engine is cold immediately following a cold start, I too have some clunky shifting. I've always attributed it to the fact the engine is idling above its normal RPM range during the warm up process. It will be interesting to see if this changes when I get the new mounts in there.
Funny thing, I wasn't planning on doing the mounts, just the clutch, however, several folks chimed in here to say the pain in the ass motor and tranny mount replacement job is pretty much a cake walk with the sub frame lowered. Given the sub frame needs to come down for the clutch job, I figured I'd just bite the bullet and do the mounts, even if some or all of the mounts don't yet need replacing. As a side note, I also bought a new slave cylinder and deleted the Clutch Delay Valve (thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...linder-967640/); I'm expecting virtually no improvement in clutch action in easy moderate driving, but when I get on it, I'm hoping for a dramatic improvement in clutch response.
Funny thing, I wasn't planning on doing the mounts, just the clutch, however, several folks chimed in here to say the pain in the ass motor and tranny mount replacement job is pretty much a cake walk with the sub frame lowered. Given the sub frame needs to come down for the clutch job, I figured I'd just bite the bullet and do the mounts, even if some or all of the mounts don't yet need replacing. As a side note, I also bought a new slave cylinder and deleted the Clutch Delay Valve (thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...linder-967640/); I'm expecting virtually no improvement in clutch action in easy moderate driving, but when I get on it, I'm hoping for a dramatic improvement in clutch response.
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Refresh update...
Last fall I got moved into a new role at work, a role which A) requires a very steep learning curve, and B) has suddenly become hot, so hot I have a year's worth of work on my plate due by the end of June.
With the above said, I quickly came to the conclusion I didn't have two days to devote to doing this work and farmed it out to my friend's shop; an experienced Acura mechanic started work yesterday morning and has yet to complete it. Yikes! The good news is the clutch, motor and tranny mounts, stabilizer bar links and bushings, axles and rear hubs have all gone in pretty much without a hitch. The bad news is the rear brakes are pretty much gone (the inside pad has less than an eighth of an inch of material left on both sides), and the backing plate for the left front brake literally fell apart/off during disassembly (can't tell if it was damaged from road junk or something but the right side is rock solid). The issue with the backing plate is it looks like the front bearing hub needs to be pressed out to be able to mount the plate, so some extra work there. Other niggling issues; the exhaust gaskets need to be replaced, and there appears to be a small oil leak from the front head (so small the car doesn't even drop); I'm guessing when the timing belt was done by the previous owner the cam seals weren't replaced.
Other good news is the bushings in all of the control arms look to be in very good shape, the flywheel isn't scored and might easily be cleaned up, and even the engine and transmission mounts look to have been replaced within the last few years. In fact, some of the parts which came off are so clean, I may offer them for sale for a nominal charge.
Looks like she'll be out of the shop this time tomorrow, and then the only remaining issue on my to-do list is to pick up the new 2007-2008 TL wheels I bought from our fellow member royalte99, have them reconditioned, and have the new Pirelli Cinturato P7s I have sitting in the hayloft mounted on them. I cannot wait because the Goodrich G-Force Comp-2 A/S tires on there now are so darn noisy it is getting difficult to have a conversation in the car.
One final comment; the OEM axles I had taken off are very clean (only one of the four CV joints feels worn which is probably what I've been feeling through the steering wheel); I'm thinking of doing a "Paying it forward" thing by sending them to the fine folks at Raxles so they can have a pair of remanufactured 6MT axles in stock. I'm thinking to suggest to them this would be for AcuraZine members only.
Last fall I got moved into a new role at work, a role which A) requires a very steep learning curve, and B) has suddenly become hot, so hot I have a year's worth of work on my plate due by the end of June.
With the above said, I quickly came to the conclusion I didn't have two days to devote to doing this work and farmed it out to my friend's shop; an experienced Acura mechanic started work yesterday morning and has yet to complete it. Yikes! The good news is the clutch, motor and tranny mounts, stabilizer bar links and bushings, axles and rear hubs have all gone in pretty much without a hitch. The bad news is the rear brakes are pretty much gone (the inside pad has less than an eighth of an inch of material left on both sides), and the backing plate for the left front brake literally fell apart/off during disassembly (can't tell if it was damaged from road junk or something but the right side is rock solid). The issue with the backing plate is it looks like the front bearing hub needs to be pressed out to be able to mount the plate, so some extra work there. Other niggling issues; the exhaust gaskets need to be replaced, and there appears to be a small oil leak from the front head (so small the car doesn't even drop); I'm guessing when the timing belt was done by the previous owner the cam seals weren't replaced.
Other good news is the bushings in all of the control arms look to be in very good shape, the flywheel isn't scored and might easily be cleaned up, and even the engine and transmission mounts look to have been replaced within the last few years. In fact, some of the parts which came off are so clean, I may offer them for sale for a nominal charge.
Looks like she'll be out of the shop this time tomorrow, and then the only remaining issue on my to-do list is to pick up the new 2007-2008 TL wheels I bought from our fellow member royalte99, have them reconditioned, and have the new Pirelli Cinturato P7s I have sitting in the hayloft mounted on them. I cannot wait because the Goodrich G-Force Comp-2 A/S tires on there now are so darn noisy it is getting difficult to have a conversation in the car.
One final comment; the OEM axles I had taken off are very clean (only one of the four CV joints feels worn which is probably what I've been feeling through the steering wheel); I'm thinking of doing a "Paying it forward" thing by sending them to the fine folks at Raxles so they can have a pair of remanufactured 6MT axles in stock. I'm thinking to suggest to them this would be for AcuraZine members only.
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horseshoez (04-04-2018)
#26
How many miles? Did the mechanic mention the condition of your intermediate shaft carrier bearing? I have a slight and seemingly random vibration around 55-70mph felt through the floor and steering. Wheels/tires are ruled out because they've been balanced twice (roadforce). Planning on changing my axles but also considering the intermediate shaft as well. Last time I was under the car, looked like a lot of grease was caked on the outside of the bearing which isn't a good sign
Research here indicates the shaft rarely goes bad but I'm debating on just biting the bullet and doing it all since its not too much extra work as everything will be disassembled for the axle anyhow.
Research here indicates the shaft rarely goes bad but I'm debating on just biting the bullet and doing it all since its not too much extra work as everything will be disassembled for the axle anyhow.
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How many miles? Did the mechanic mention the condition of your intermediate shaft carrier bearing? I have a slight and seemingly random vibration around 55-70mph felt through the floor and steering. Wheels/tires are ruled out because they've been balanced twice (roadforce). Planning on changing my axles but also considering the intermediate shaft as well. Last time I was under the car, looked like a lot of grease was caked on the outside of the bearing which isn't a good sign
Research here indicates the shaft rarely goes bad but I'm debating on just biting the bullet and doing it all since its not too much extra work as everything will be disassembled for the axle anyhow.
Research here indicates the shaft rarely goes bad but I'm debating on just biting the bullet and doing it all since its not too much extra work as everything will be disassembled for the axle anyhow.
#28
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like a good time, shoez...should ride like new when you're done. Hoist is always a blessing--wish I had one. This up-and-down thing is getting old.
Axle-exchange pool idea has merit, too.
Work: I know, right?
Pics when she's done?
Axle-exchange pool idea has merit, too.
Work: I know, right?
Pics when she's done?
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Thanks, I'm on the road for the next two to three weeks, hopefully I'll have the new wheels and tires on by late April. Once that happens, a good wash and wax and the photos will be soon to follow.
#30
Suzuka Master
About time, its long overdue Horseshoez.
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#31
Ok just wondering. 92k on mine, I'll probably just go ahead and change it out. Looks like I can buy the bearing and clips so just need to press it out.
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#33
Initial inspection shows the bearing is covered in grease. Based on the location and the fact that all surrounding areas are dry and clean I don't see where else it'd come from. I won't be able to tell for sure until I take it off to see what kind of play there is. But at that point it's out so might as well press in a new carrier bearing.
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Initial inspection shows the bearing is covered in grease. Based on the location and the fact that all surrounding areas are dry and clean I don't see where else it'd come from. I won't be able to tell for sure until I take it off to see what kind of play there is. But at that point it's out so might as well press in a new carrier bearing.
#35
Suzuka Master
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Initial inspection shows the bearing is covered in grease. Based on the location and the fact that all surrounding areas are dry and clean I don't see where else it'd come from. I won't be able to tell for sure until I take it off to see what kind of play there is. But at that point it's out so might as well press in a new carrier bearing.
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#36
Thats my plan. Was originally going to get the whole assembly for $300 but realized there's no need, just need the bearing.
Did you have a vibration before at highway speeds? Did you change the axles too and did the vibrations go away afterwards?
Did you have a vibration before at highway speeds? Did you change the axles too and did the vibrations go away afterwards?
#37
Suzuka Master
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Long story short, since the car was out of gear, I finally deduced the source of the 'mystery' vibration and it was my worn original DMF giving up the ghost. After revving a few more times, through that rpm range in neutral, there it was every time, go figure. I was budgeting to have my differential bearings replaced so while the tranny was out I had a new LUK clutch/PP/DMF done as well. When I took delivery of the car the vibration was gone.
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So, here's one for those of you out there with 6MT models...
Over the last few days something in the back of my head has been bugging me there is a difference in how my car drives (over and above the huge reduction in steering wheel vibrations from the new axles). It finally hit me today, I no longer need to be really careful so as not to look like a total noob stick-driver, when engaging the clutch off the line and again on my 1-2 shift; the car is far easier to drive smoothly when driving aggressive. I'm guessing I can attribute the improvement to the new engine and transmission mounts.
Over the last few days something in the back of my head has been bugging me there is a difference in how my car drives (over and above the huge reduction in steering wheel vibrations from the new axles). It finally hit me today, I no longer need to be really careful so as not to look like a total noob stick-driver, when engaging the clutch off the line and again on my 1-2 shift; the car is far easier to drive smoothly when driving aggressive. I'm guessing I can attribute the improvement to the new engine and transmission mounts.
#39
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Awesome Horseshoez!
#40
Your 1-2 improvement is almost guranteed to be the CDV delete. My drivetrain is original on my 2008 vs my previous refreshed 2006 (both 6mt). I also had my sole cdv deleted slave which i transfered between cars when selling and can further back up that claim to the differences I noticed.