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i have a question. How do you slip off the timing Belt without removing the idler pulley and adjusting pulley? I don’t want to unbolt these pulleys. How do you release the tension on this belt? Thanks
You can't. You have to remove the tensioner. At that point might as well throw a new one on. The tensioner is the weakest link. Don't wanna gamble with that.
You can't. You have to remove the tensioner. At that point might as well throw a new one on. The tensioner is the weakest link. Don't wanna gamble with that.
you mean the hydrolic tensioner? The one with a compressed piston and with two bolts? I know you have to remove that one . The question is can you just use the battery hook and screw in and push the adjusting pulley to release the tension on the belt without removing the idler pulley and adjusting pulley.
Naturally after lining up marks, just to make things easy, remove the idler, one bolt, remove the belt, remove the tensioner, 2 bolts. Put the tensioner in a vise to compress the plunger, insert nail or cotter pin to hold plunger in, install tensioner and idler, then belt.
Even using the battery hold-down, that would only inhibit the plunger from extending, but you still would need to do all the additional work to remove and install the belt.
Naturally after lining up marks, just to make things easy, remove the idler, one bolt, remove the belt, remove the tensioner, 2 bolts. Put the tensioner in a vise to compress the plunger, insert nail or cotter pin to hold plunger in, install tensioner and idler, then belt.
Even using the battery hold-down, that would only inhibit the plunger from extending, but you still would need to do all the additional work to remove and install the belt.
does the idler pulley move sideways when the bolts is loosen. I still can’t figure out why you need to remove the idler pulley if you don’t to replace it. I know the hydraulic tensioner has to come out.
does the idler pulley move sideways when the bolts is loosen. I still can’t figure out why you need to remove the idler pulley if you don’t to replace it. I know the hydraulic tensioner has to come out.
You should be able to use the battery tie down strap and put the hydraulic tensioner back in and put a pin inside to lock it in place. this will allow the belt to be removed from the car. Ensure all marks are aligned.
You don't need to remove any pulleys to remove the belt, what others are saying is that it's just best practice but they aren't answering your question.
You should be able to use the battery tie down strap and put the hydraulic tensioner back in and put a pin inside to lock it in place. this will allow the belt to be removed from the car. Ensure all marks are aligned.
You don't need to remove any pulleys to remove the belt, what others are saying is that it's just best practice but they aren't answering your question.
Here is image with belt off
thank you sir!! I am just removing the belt so I can remove the camshaft pulley to inspect the seal for any leak. This is another question I have how do you keep the pulley from spinning while removing the bolt and how to remove the oil seal if there is a leak. Thank again!!
thank you sir!! I am just removing the belt so I can remove the camshaft pulley to inspect the seal for any leak. This is another question I have how do you keep the pulley from spinning while removing the bolt and how to remove the oil seal if there is a leak. Thank again!!
Are you referring to the top left or top right camshaft sprockets? Or the CRANKshaft sprocket down at the bottom?
if it's the top then you will need a "camshaft pulley holder" that could be available from an auto parts store. It's a C style holder that allows you to hold the camshaft sprocket in place.
Are you referring to the top left or top right camshaft sprockets? Or the CRANKshaft sprocket down at the bottom?
if it's the top then you will need a "camshaft pulley holder" that could be available from an auto parts store. It's a C style holder that allows you to hold the camshaft sprocket in place.
Lol guys just doing my part. I have found too many threads that went silent in my searching for answers to my own problems with the engine swap. Don't want to do the same.
So looking at his threads, sound like he has a leak at one of the bolts behind the cover so he wants to remove the timing belt so remove the oil pump cover.
This means removing the crankshaft damper, which requires a special tool to hold it in place while you remove the god-forsaken crankshaft bolt. Once that is off, the crankshaft sprocket will slide right off once belt is removed, and allow him to remove all necessary bolts on oil pump cover.
You have a bunch of related threads all over.
You are asking questions that don't have a good answer.
There's no good reason to do what you're attempting to do.
If you have a leak, you tear everything apart.
You then replace what can be replaced within reason.
Essentially, your inexperience is showing.
In one of your threads, you ask if you can drain the back of the block
So you can save $5 of coolant by not spilling it everywhere when removing the water pump.
I can't even...
This means removing the crankshaft damper, which requires a special tool to hold it in place while you remove the god-forsaken crankshaft bolt. Once that is off, the crankshaft sprocket will slide right off once belt is removed, and allow him to remove all necessary bolts on oil pump cover.
Special tool.. you mean an impact with 1200 ft lbs of nut busting power and a 19mm lisle socket.
Don't forget the sprog on the sprocket when you replace it. It's muy importante.
Aye @justnspace
You have a bunch of related threads all over.
You are asking questions that don't have a good answer.
There's no good reason to do what you're attempting to do.
If you have a leak, you tear everything apart.
You then replace what can be replaced within reason.
Essentially, your inexperience is showing.
In one of your threads, you ask if you can drain the back of the block
So you can save $5 of coolant by not spilling it everywhere when removing the water pump.
I can't even...
Originally Posted by Majofo
Special tool.. you mean an impact with 1200 ft lbs of nut busting power and a 19mm lisle socket.
Don't forget the sprog on the sprocket when you replace it. It's muy importante.
Aye @justnspace
You guys seeing these posts.. this thread has gone haywire.
There are a few things you can half-ass when messing with a car or engine without major ramifications. I've removed spark plugs when the engine is hot, replaced brake pads without resurfacing/turning rotors and used "non-Honda" approved coolant before. All of those are no-no's but won't likely result in the car spontaneously exploding. But when it comes to messing with the timing belt, DO NOT attempt to cut corners. Follow the service manual to a "T". At best, you'll damage the belt or other components. At worst, you'll completely screw it up and cause destructive damage to the engine. If you need a copy of the portion of the service manual for removing/replacing the belt I'd be happy to post it.
Thank everyone for the advices and precautions. I have the FSM. I am going to remove the oil pan to fix the oil pump leak and while I am at it replace the t belt, water pump, crankshaft & camshaft seal (if they leak). I am 100% confidence I can do it. I was able the remove crankshaft bolt without any problem using breaker bar and a long pipe, a jack stand and a 50 mm crankshaft pulley holder. I did it twice and the second time around it required less muscle power to get the bolt lose. FUN FUN FUN!!!
Don't forget the timing belt tensioner, should come in the timing belt kit you pick up.
You can 100% do it, just take your time.
i ordered the AISIN KIT 002. I have all the associated parts ordered from oemacuraparts and necessary tool ready to start a tear down when the weather is warm. I will start on Friday evening try to finish it on Sunday. I have read the FSM and watched YouTube numerous times. Maybe a month later I will replace the front camshaft because the lob is worn out. That mean I have to remove the time belt all over again but that is ok.
Are you referring to the top left or top right camshaft sprockets? Or the CRANKshaft sprocket down at the bottom?
if it's the top then you will need a "camshaft pulley holder" that could be available from an auto parts store. It's a C style holder that allows you to hold the camshaft sprocket in place.
I have another question. What job is easier to do, removing oil pump or replacing the FRONT camshaft. For whatever reason my camshaft lobe is worn out but not too bad and that is the reason I have a ticking engine noise.
I have another question. What job is easier to do, removing oil pump or replacing the FRONT camshaft. For whatever reason my camshaft lobe is worn out but not too bad and that is the reason I have a ticking engine noise.
IT all depends on a person experience. For me, i am less comfortable doing camshaft related things and oil pump sounds much easier.
IT all depends on a person experience. For me, i am less comfortable doing camshaft related things and oil pump sounds much easier.
if I throw in a camshaft replacement job into the mix it would be way too much on my plate. I will probably tackle the oil pump removal while doing the timing belt. And probably a month later remove the timing belt again replace the camshaft. My goal is I don’t want to install a new t belt and not addressing the oil pump leak. I don’t the leak to get on the new belt.
is it possible to loosen the timing belt so it can slipped off the front camshaft pulley without removing the engine side mount? I just want the belt off the front camshaft pulley so the pulley can be removed. I am not trying remove the belt. If it can be done it would save me lots of labor when I will be doing the camshaft replacement.
if I throw in a camshaft replacement job into the mix it would be way too much on my plate. I will probably tackle the oil pump removal while doing the timing belt. And probably a month later remove the timing belt again replace the camshaft. My goal is I don’t want to install a new t belt and not addressing the oil pump leak. I don’t the leak to get on the new belt.
is it possible to loosen the timing belt so it can slipped off the front camshaft pulley without removing the engine side mount? I just want the belt off the front camshaft pulley so the pulley can be removed. I am not trying remove the belt. If it can be done it would save me lots of labor when I will be doing the camshaft replacement.
Since you aren't needing to remove the actual belt, i don't see any reason why you couldn't leave engine mount in place. you just need to ensure that timing is aligned and you compress the tensioner.
The overall J series engine design hasn't changed in 20 years. All the mounting locations are the same for each Honda/Acura V6 since 98'.
So yea, it's pretty damn easy to say the least. I know your inexperienced but like I said earlier, take your time & do yourself a favour, pick up a service manual or at least sign up on Alldatadiy.com. Best 20 bucks you'll spend.
You're all over the place.. again.
Simple stuff like removing side engine mount.
Why in the world would anyone do a timing belt job
then plan to remove it again to replace the camshaft.
Are you basing lobe damage by ticking noise?
If you actually have damaged lobes, that could be much more important to address.
02-18-2018, 02:34 PM
There are a few things you can half-ass when messing with a car or engine without major ramifications. I've removed spark plugs when the engine is hot, replaced brake pads without resurfacing/turning rotors and used "non-Honda" approved coolant before. All of those are no-no's but won't likely result in the car spontaneously exploding. But when it comes to messing with the timing belt, DO NOT attempt to cut corners. 
Follow the service manual to a "T". At best, you'll damage the belt or other components. At worst, you'll completely screw it up and cause destructive damage to the engine. If you need a copy of the portion of the service manual for removing/replacing the belt I'd be happy to post it.
