Chase Howard

Hey all... my heart is heavy while posting this. I have a 2005 Tl 6mt and decided to do a fluid change today. I am very meticulous and careful about torque specs and doing the job right because, well, it’s my car lol. Anyways. I had taken out the fluid check bolt to bleed the extra fuid out and I went to go finger tighten the bolt and new washer in when all of a sudden I notice a crack where the bolt goes in. Of course I’m like oh, shit. So I tighten it in because what do I have to lose at this point right? So as I’m tightening the bolt in the housing literally crumbles into my hand. I know I’ll probably need a rebuild and was considering this anyways due to a noise I had been hearing originating from what sounded like my final drive (as told to me by my mechanic as well). How much is an average price through an Indy/transmission specialist shop to rebuild this transmission? Thank you all so much.
-Currently acurazines most unluckiest man: Chase

nfnsquared

Wow, that's 2 of you now...

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...n-hole-961754/

Chase Howard

I wish my break was as clean as his. The piece that came off mine literally shattered off into a million pieces. But oddly I hadn't even torqued anything down nor had I gotten close to a snug fit with the bolt, it cracked just as I was finger tightening the bolt into the threads. These pictures are from after the break.

thoiboi

Interesting. ...

nfnsquared

Yours was the check bolt, his was the drain bolt. Still, would seem to indicate that the/some 6MT cases were poorly forged?

I just changed out my 6MT fluid and (knock on wood) I did not have this issue. I did not remove the check bolt, only the drain bolt.

Chase Howard

It's a pain in the ass, but honestly with the nasty grinding noise I've been hearing it was kind of the last domino to fall letting me know its time to rebuild the tranny....

GreenSpades

Good to know so I can be as careful as possible when changing mine. Sorry for your loss

srg818

Out of curiosity was the bolt removed when the engine/transmission were both hot? I've heard the old saying when changing spark plugs to remove them on a cold engine because of the relative softness of cast aluminum. I'm changing my MT fluid soon and this has me paranoid

peter6

Thread in bolt by hand. If it doesn't go, something must be wrong.

Also it's better to not use torque wrench that use cheap one. I snapped one bolt as wrench didn't click.

Chase Howard

The car had the time it took to jack it up on all four corners, time it took to take off all splash covers, and time it took to get all my tools together and get access to the fill bolt to cool down, so it was warm, but definitely not hot in the slightest. I could put my finger in the fluid and it was barely warm. I honestly couldn't tell you how this happened.

Chase Howard

When re-inserting check bolt I was hand tightening it. Had not used the torque wrench yet. The housing around the bolt literally crumbled around the bolt while hand tightening.

Chase Howard

It's okay! Like I said it sucks, but along with a grinding/chatter noise, supposedly coming from the final drive according to my mechanic, it was kind of the cherry on top to make me go "okay its time to bring it to a reputable trans shop and get this checked out." It's a headache, but no worries.

Chase Howard

Hey all,
If you haven't seen my last post go check it out. But I got quoted at around $800+ just to drop the transmission and was wondering if that seems fair or if I should look for an option B. I'm not super experience with trans repairs and was just wondering. Thanks guys!
-Chase

nfnsquared

Sounds about right. I know that many dealers/mechanics will charge ~$900-$1000 to replace a rear main seal, so $800 seems like a fair price from what I've seen.

Chase Howard

Thank you so much. I've only owned the car for about 6 months and it's already boning me with this trans. Such a headache while also a college student who commutes

nfnsquared

Since it's just the "check" hole that is compromised, I would think you could JB weld the small hole and then drive it without serious consequences until you have time/$$$ to replace the case. Heck, if the JB weld holds, you could leave it like that forever. You don't need to ever remove that bolt again, just add 2.3 quarts.

I know you have the other issue, but if you don't have the time/$$$ right now, I would think you could drive in the current condition.

Chase Howard

Luckily I have a good friend and a great girlfriend who have agreed to help me out with transport while this shit storm gets figured out. But regardless of what happens I will not remove that check bolt again lol. I'll just stick to the 2.3qts.

Chase Howard

Hey Acuraziners,
So if you look back at my last couple of posts you'll see I was having issues with the transmission on my car. Well I took it to a transmission shop and they pulled the trans out for me and let me know I needed a new housing because they couldn't weld it and also the clutch was burnt to shit. So at a $2,000 estimate I gave them a go and will be getting the car back on Thursday. I couldn't be more excited because apparently I've been driving with a crappy clutch since the date of purchase...and of course my unexperienced ass wouldn't know the difference between a bad clutch and a new clutch because I've never driven on a brand new/nice clutch. Just wanted to let you all what was going on with it!

-Chase

thoiboi

You wouldn't need this disclaimer if you just kept all your issues in one post (fixed this for you)