3GTLCHICK

Whine has diminished with second flush. It Feels like when I first bought it. Any thoughts on just the regular racing for the last flush, along with one bottle of the d4 kind? I was told it was slightly overfilled, could this cause trouble in anyones experience here?

I hate cars

Racing and lightweight racing are both FM free (Type F) so they're basically the same fluid. Lightweight is obviously lower viscosity. Unfortunately of the two Type F fluids that Redline sells, one is thicker than stock and one is thinner than stock. Mixing 50-50 will give you very close to stock viscosity. There's room for error unless you live in a very cold climate.

Amsoil's Super Shift is also a Type F and stock viscosity so no mixing required for viscosity's sake.

Slightly overfilled will hurt nothing. Mine is always a little over the full mark.

Cheval

ok to make sure I have this right...I have a 2008 TL with 19,000 miles and original Z1 in the transmission. To get the same viscosity as the standard Z1 I'd go with:

Refill #1 = 2 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF
Refill #2 = 2 qt Lightweight ATF + 1 qt Racing ATF
Refill #3 = 1 qt D4 + 1 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF

for the 3x3 and that will do it? Just want to make sure before I order 9 bottles of transmission fluid from redline.com for $122.91 shipped.

Can't wait to do this since I think it's in my car's best interest to get that Z1 crap out of there ASAP....

Inaccurate

^ Yes sir. This will do it. Maybe get an extra quart of D4 in case in need a little more to reach the Full mark on your final fill. I mention this because so many people seem to have this issue.

Cheval

thanks and sounds good! Will get an extra bottle of D4! I'll get a new washer (will re-use the existing one on the 2 fills and then use a new one on the final fill) and a pack of those clips for the under shield and buy a torque wrench and I think I'll be set! oh and one of those funnels and tubes for filling through the transmission check dipstick.

off to order my 10 bottles!

gdong

Hi All,

I know my situation is similar to Cheval, but I'm a little confusedMy case is as follows.

2008 TL-s, auto
60k km / 37k miles
Tranny fluid has never been changed, to my knowledge, I'd say it's a safe bet that it's all honda z1 in there now (bought the car at 35k km / 22k miles)

I already bought a case of Amsoil super shift (9 quarts, which is type f I believe). Looks like I should be targetting for 65% type f fluid, but what do I mix it with? I"m guessing AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Transmission Fluid http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx but what would my 3x3 look like?

Thanks

gdong

Bump, hoping inaccurate will see this.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

send him a PM and post his reply in this thread

A SiQ TL

I did my 1x3 today with all racing fluid. I have only driven it 7 miles so far, so I haven't got a true feel for the change yet. I'll let you know.

Inaccurate

Yes. Ideally, you would mix the Amsoil Super Shift with the Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Transmission Fluid (click here).

You don't need to be concerned with viscosity. The Amsoil fluids have the correct viscosity already.

Your refills would be -

Refill #1 = 3 quarts Amsoil Super Shift
Refill #2 = 3 quarts Amsoil Super Shift
Refill #3 = 2 quarts Amsoil Super Shift + 1 quart Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Transmission Fluid

The above will produce a 65% Racing mixture with normal viscosity.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

After reading , I have come to the conclusion that I believe the correct mixture should be:

1 Qt ATF of each will give a nice 3x4:

Amsoil Racing
Amsoil Synthetic
Amsoil Supershift Racing
Redline D4
Redline D6
Redline Racing
Redline Lightweight Racing
Royal Purple Racing
ATI Super F
Dynamic Synthetic Racing
SynMax Racing
Synergyn Racing Super Shift

Now after adding all these, there is still some factory fluid remaining, so that when the trans goes south the responsibility can be on the Z-1 Or DW-1.

Sorry, couldn't resist!

Inaccurate

^ This post has been reported to the forum Mod for review. Sorry, couldn't resist.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Hey, I never usually address ATF threads, but must say I couldn't resist either and it’s time for some intervention. Someone that creates a concoction, publishes the mixture, then finds that it doesn't function properly as the tran slips, then starts another thread about the absolute perfect mixture, certain leaves a great amount of doubt in my mind, so I thought I’d publish my thoughts and let the people be aware.
Got to laugh about all the turmoil over the FM and soft gear changes in the TL with the OE fluid. Ever realize how a TL shifts, crisp and hard, in fact a great many will complain that it’s not Cadillac smooth, so much for the soft shifts in a perfectly good trans, but use these ingredients, spend more on fluids and the price will be paid down the line, but I guess the shifts will change in the wrong direction.

By the way, I'm still waiting for the list of tire manufacturer's that have tires that wear on one side as you stated.

gdong

Thanks for the reply inaccurate. However I found this which says not to mix the 2 together? What do you think about this?

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...f%20fluids.pdf

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

turbonut none of us are Honda/Acura engineers....and bound to make some errors....

you know how hard it is for someone to come back and correct oneself specially when he has been signing the Redline gaga ???

I appreciate Inaccurate for correcting himself once he encountered some issues.....

I have seen 3G transmissions taking a dump left right and center.....the dealerships have no answers.....the company has no answers.....they just came out with the DW1 as an answer and i sure hope it is it.....

but i was not going to waste 3qts of Z1 every 5K miles....hence go thro 36 qts in a 60K mile period.....i decided to go with a more expensive fluid (Redline ATF) and just put in 12 qts and go the 60K mile distance.....

and if you posted all that without trying the BS you honestly should take you comment back and try the Redline....it honestly is great stuff.....

Inaccurate

I read the link that you provided. This is nothing new. This was discussed in the first few pages of the Racing ATF (click here) thread. To me, the linked article does not change my previous reply to you.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

I'm at 75,0 0 on the OE Z-1 and fine so far, but will be changing it at 100k with Z-1 as I have 3 cases in the garage.
As far as the racing fluid, I posted that the Redline Tech stated not to use it in the TL, so I thought enough said, but the words fell on deaf ears.

gdong

I hate to pelt you with questions, but after I do my first 3x3, I'm going to do the same 3x3 down the road, but at what interval? Thanks.

Inaccurate

To me, I have not corrected myself. To others, it might had appeared that way to them. Semantics.

As was stated in the original Racing ATF thread where the Racing fluid got introduced to the forum, I stated that I expected to run into some sort of drivability issue due to too little FM. I also stated at the time that when any drivability issues arouse that I would re-introduce more FM back into the mixture to alleviate the drivability issue without any harm to the transmission. And, this thread is a reflection of that.


Suggesting an ATF change interval is outside the scope of this thread. This thread leaves the Racing ATF user to decide for himself what his ATF change interval (if any) should be. This thread makes no attempt at suggesting what an ATF change interval should be. The Racing ATF user should decide his ATF change interval (if any) in the same fashion that he would if he was using any other ATF.

BostonSilverTypeS

I was one that had Z1 fluid in the trans and also monitoring the forum...It began exactly how InAccurate and many others stated it would shudder and end up going into limp mode and the shifting began flaring...all this was under warranty and with Z1 fluid....I got my trans replaced and changed to DW1 mixed with Redline TypeF and it has been driving as it should.....so you have 75k and plan on going to 100k and then using Z1 fluid, but it is funny that that Z1 fluid you will not find no more at any dealer....so even Honda has realized that Z1 is shitty fluid and I guess it seems to me that you just want to also ignore Honda engineers making the DW-1 in place of Z1......

so to me if you don't know the full story then there is no need to come in here and bash or post what you posted as a joke or what have you.....

I will say this you don't have to do this Redline TypeF fluid change which is your vehicle and you can do wha you will, but at least take that Z1 out and use the new updated DW1 recommended by Honda themselves. That way you have a fighting chance taking your trans past 100k....Bon voyage!!

I have done trial and error and have even gone a step further and used a lower viscosity Redline lightweight Type F which made the car shift amazing but came with a consequence....I resolved the issue and threw DW1 with some Redlight lightweight TypeF and am sitting currently at around 50% mix and have not had no issues like I did when I had just Z1 in there.....

just my of using typeF and why I chose to use it

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, but I know the full story and experiments with trial and error methods have no place in the Forum or in any vehicle, and that's my opinion. It has been stated emphatically that the results of this experimentation has been detrimental to some transmissions as slipping has occurred, period, so tell me where I'm incorrect.

As far as the Z-1, I'm using it because I have it available and maybe you can read the following:

New ATF DW-1 Now Available
Acura parts stock has a new ATF available. It’s
called ATF DW-1 and it replaces ATF-Z1. It’s been
designed to improve transmission performance when
it’s cold, which helps with fuel economy.
ATF DW-1 is the factory fill for all ‘11 Acura models.
Eventually it will be our only ATF, but you can keep
using ATF-Z1 in all ’10 and older models for now.However, make sure that you DO NOT use ATF-Z1
in any ’11 and newer models.
ATF DW-1 is available in 1-quart bottles
(P/N 08200-9008A).

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Folks, let's get back on topic. This thread is not about having a debate on which fluid to use. Any further comments regarding which fluid to use will be deleted. There are other threads to do this in or feel free to start a new thread. Thanks.

gdong

Anyone have input regarding 65% amsoil super shift mixed with their regular atf and driving in the cold?

IIDXholic

iTrader: (5)

So I was reading about 4 pages of this, and noticed a lot of people saying their wives hated the 67% racing mixture. I think my wife would feel the same way, would you recommend doing a 40% mixture Inaccurate? If so what would the procedure be for someone that , to the best of my knowledge, never had the Honda stuff switched out? Thanks

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

I always replaced the fluid at dealer since 2006. Last one was at 76K, currently at 102K and have to replace it... thinking Redline but im just laughing at myself right now and saying what the heck do I do now haha

I don't want my car to jump after switching gear, but don't want to use DW1 again...
Actually never did...last one was in 2010 so probably Z1

Refill #1 = 2 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF
Refill #2 = 2 qt Lightweight ATF + 1 qt Racing ATF
Refill #3 = 1 qt D4 + 1 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF

If I do this...
Should I do 1X3... drain and refill Redline for 3 times every 1,000 miles like swoosh did and explained in his thread called REDLINE in my system !!!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ MEKO the only reason i kept the interval high between 1x3 was to make sure i wasnt messing up anything since i had (at that point) 147,000 miles on my car....

you can do it with an interval of as little as 2 odd miles....or as high as 3000-4000 miles....when i was with Z1, i used to do a drain and refill ever oil change (5000 miles at that point) but am hoping Redline goes the distance of 60K miles interval....

so i say, do each drain and refill every 200-300 miles (where you feel comfortable) and then go from there....

PS: I did not look at what fluid you are using as am running Type F straight....do I recommend doing it? NO....why? coz i dont want you to blame me if something goes wrong....stick with 65% as Inaccurate has mentioned !!!

Berat

iTrader: (1)

Question for you guys, I had made a thread a few months ago in regards to service that was due and TheChamp had recommended that I do FxFxD4, FxFxD4, and FxFxD4. After reading this thread today I didn't really see that mentioned. It was my first ever Drain and Fill, I don't remember the last mileage I changed it at(I know I should probably start keeping track of these things). Is this a correct way? If not what can I do to make it correct?

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

What does "FxFxD4, FxFxD4, and FxFxD4" mean? Does this mean 3 separate drain and fills (aka 3x3), with each drain and fill being 2qts of Redline Type-F and 1qt of Redline D4? If so, this is a reasonable method.

Berat

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it was a 3x3 that was just the fill method that I used. Since this is a reasonable method in the future if I want to continue until I get as close to 100% new fluid and following a maintenance interval of 60,000miles do I continue with just doing a FxFxD4 or do I switch now to FxLWxD4?

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I think I get your nomenclature now, although I'd use "+" signs instead of "x" signs because the "x" usually indicates the number of drain and fills.

F+F+D4 is a little higher viscosity than OEM fluid, but it seems to be what many people on here use. I personally use F+LW+D4 to bring the viscosity closer to OEM, but I'm more concerned about the thicker viscosity because I live in a cold climate with harsh winters. (BTW, I was previously using F+F+LW until reading this thread and switching to F+LW+D4).

I'd been running with F+F+LW for about 40,000 miles and have been on F+LW+D4 for about 20,000 miles.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Berat: if you are doing this for the first time, here are the %'s

Drain and fill percentage:
1=39.5%
2=63.4%
3=77.8%
4=86.6%
5=91.9%
6=95.1%
7=97.0%
8=98.2%
9=98.9%
10=99+%

so with 3x3 you will have ~75% of new fluid in your transmission....and for 3x3 you will use 9 qts....out of which you are using 6qts of Type F and 3qts of D4....so you will have 66% of 75% as Type F fluid....so in short you will be running 50% of Type F fluid....with the method you mentioned

similarly if you plan to do a 4x3 you will have ~87% of new fluid in your transmission....and for 4x3 you will use 12 qts....out of which you are using 8qts of Type F and 4qts of D4....so you will have 66% of 87% as Type F fluid....so in short you will be running 58% of Type F fluid....with the method you mentioned

Berat

iTrader: (1)

I'm also in Chicago, so I would generally have the same concerns. However last winter wasn't all that bad.

Swoosh, I plan on changing all my fluids at 100k(90k Now), a way for me to start fresh essentially. I have already done a 3x3 using the method I mentioned above, I plan on doing another drain and fill then. In order for me to maintain or get to OEM viscosity while still having 65% Racing ATF what would be my next drain and fill method?

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. This past winter was beach weather compared to other winters.

I was running with the Redline mixture the previous winter as well. It was much better on cold mornings than the OEM fluid. The OEM fluid would take forever to shift and then when it finally did it was a harsh thud. Much smoother with the Redline mixture.

golfer04

In my experience so far just doing a 1X3 with the Redline tpye F, I have actually experienced SMOOTHER shifts than I did with the OEM Z1. I was @ 85k miles on the original factory fill, and many of my gear changes would seem to lag and then grab going into the next gear, especially the 1-2 and at lower throttle inputs.

So far I have about 4k miles on my 1X3 with the type F and and the only time I notice a firmer shift is when I am shifting at high RPM or WOT, in which case I am more than happy because that is when I want a firm shift. In normal driving I have noticed a huge improvement in the shift quality. I will update again after my next OC and having done my 2X3.

Overall very happy I made the change so far

Buda

iTrader: (1)

I finally did my 4th 1x3 today with 2 D4 and 1 Racing (did 3x3 with racing oringially). I was getting the flare ups between 3rd and 4th gear on occasion. I did notice the drain plug had a lot of build up on it this time.

At a 60% racing mix right now and with adding the D4 back in can tell a difference right away. Will have to drive it around some more to see if any more flare ups result.

ResistaNce

Hey so much debate in this thread.

Need a hardproof answer. I have 05 TL AT. 162000 MILES!
Its been drained and filled at the dealer twice in its lifetime.

Going to change teh pressure switches, want to do the fluids to.

What approach should i take for this to make the tranny last as long as possible? Will i do 1 drain and fill, drive a few miles then do another or wait 1k miles and do another? ALso please give me a good link to purchase the fluids and a DIY. Just got the car a few weeks ago. I really appreciate it. Thankyou

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Resistance this question has been answered multiple times....

i did the fluid change at 147K miles and am sitting at 159K miles right of now....i hate introducing new fluid in my car all of a sudden....at the same time i hate throwing out new fluid out of the car....

hence i went for a 1K mile interval between the drain and the fills....but for people who dont drive as much, i would recommend a 200-ish mile interval....just make sure there is not noise/clunking/thudding from the tranny....keep an "ear" open if you will....if you see any miss shifts/flaring/etc i would revert back to the original fluid....

if none of this things come up, you are GOLDEN

ResistaNce

Hey i understand what ur saying Swoosh but there has been different debate in here. Ill prolly order the ATF off of Amazon (good idea?) but which route should i go for 162k miles and never had aftermarket fluid besides 2 drain and fills tranny service from the dealer.

Refill #1 = 2 quarts Racing ATF + 1 quart Lightweight ATF
Refill #2 = 2 quarts Racing ATF + 1 quart Lightweight ATF
Refill #3 = 1 quart D4 + 1 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF

or

Refill #1 = 3 quarts Racing ATF
Refill #2 = 3 quarts Racing ATF
Refill #3 = 2 quarts Racing ATF + 1 quart D4

boryzh

I'm still not 100% sure racing fluid will reduce transmission wear and tear.
Let me explain...
FM reduces friction... reduced friction also reduces clutches rubbing. Yes it increases slip, but may not increase wear and tear. Low friction means low rubbing... see on some plastic or bronze bearings in electric motors, they are working years, almost with no oil.
Oil is a FM... remove oil from your engine and your pistons and cylinders will be destroyed in a minutes.
Low friction also means low heat emission...


Percentage of FM in ATF will definitely impact switching, but I'm not so sure about transmission life and dependability.

I think all these conversation about ATF are in place just because of bad V6 transmission created by Honda... Z1 or DW-1 may be good enough, RedLine or Amsoil may be better, but they are just patch... and patch cannot treat serious illness...

I had Chevy Malibu 2000, never did anything with transmission until car has been damaged in accident at 230K km and sent to scrap... OEM ATF, nothing special.. never had ANY problems with it (DEXIII I believe)

I'm not a guru in automatic transmissions, but have engineering background and understand how machines work...

ResistaNce

this