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Newbie checking in - just bought 08 TL with 90k miles. Might have a question
I've always wanted a 3rd gen TL since about 2006-2007, but never got a chance to actually get one.
Anyways, I sold my other vehicle at a good price, and was able to buy this a few weeks ago. Loving the car so far, especially the sleek look that you can't find on the 4th and 5th gen. Keeps making me turn my head and look at it after i park the car.
I might have a few questions.
The dash on this car is in pristine condition. However, I've seen that many TL's have cracked dash issues. Do TL's have cracked dash problem more than other cars? If so, how do you guys prevent it? Using sunshade will prevent the issue altogether or it won't help because of the exposure it gets during driving? Really don't like the idea of getting a dash mat to cover up the dash when it starts cracking, nor the idea of getting a new dash for quite a few pennies.
Second question is, do TL's not like low RPM cruises?
I feel like when I cruise very slowly in the city in automatic mode at around 2-2.2k RPM, it just doesn't want to produce too much power, but I hear very low tone whirring if i give it just a little of gas. If I step on the gas hard enough i guess, of course, the tranny will downshift and give me the power I need, but it seems like the automatic tranny seems to always put the gear a little too high to be able to produce enough power on the go. I always find myself having to downshift to get enough acceleration. (either manually or automatically)
I am wondering if it's my car's issue, or if it's just how honda's transmissions are designed. This is my first honda really, so i don't have much knowledge.
Anyways, thanks for your help in advance. Hope to learn a lot more by browsing.
welcome and congrats on your purchase, I can answer some of your question.
1. Nothing can prevent the TL dash to crack with the exception of maintaining the internal temp without drastic change. Because the material construction used even a new dash replacement will most likely crack again and you either have 4 options once it crack. Using sun shade only help slowing down the cracking processes.
A. Do nothing
B. Put a dash mat
C. Overlay hard plastic cover
D. $2500 for a new dash
2. J32 found in the Base model doesn't produce enough torque from the low end RPM which explain for the necessity for down shift (yes even my Type Slow can be struggle on low end RPM). If I can recall on top of my head the peak TQ is around 5k, Also the AT is knowing for having tall gear ratio (3rd gear in the AT is around 1:1). The 6spd MT can elevate this issue.
I didn't think it was low torque issue at low rpm. At least I am glad that it's not just my car that's doing it.
When I was test driving it, I guess I wasn't paying attention to it or didn't feel it. Then after I got the car, low RPM cruise just has been
very lackluster until I give it some gas to about 3-3.5k rpm.
And Thanks for the coverlay idea. Didn't know it existed.
I found mine had a little torque from a standstill, then was dead from 5 mph to about 25 mph, at about 3K rpm it woukd start to go, but it wasn't until about 3,800 rpm when it would really start to pull. Strong power until readline after that
Also, reducing weight will help a lot as will a tune up. The low-end torque will be improved most by this. If you want more still, get a j-pipe!
Who drives an Honda/Acura below 3K RPM?? Even cruising, I have to keep my RPM above 3K RPM because there's some droning between 2K-2.5K RPM from the exhaust that could get a little annoying.
Who drives an Honda/Acura below 3K RPM?? Even cruising, I have to keep my RPM above 3K RPM because there's some droning between 2K-2.5K RPM from the exhaust that could get a little annoying.
for TL owner that has two pedals instead of 3. Not every one is fortunate or want to own a 3 pedal TL.
If I'm just putting around in traffic, this is the rpm range. It glides just fine.
As the OP stated, it's not only the lack of low end torque. The tranny auto upshifts way to early in the rpm range.
I find myself frequently stomping on accelerator to force a downshift. I now drive in fully manual mode all the time.
Good looking TL. What's the history on the transmission service? I too will play around with the feel of the pedal to get it to shift sometimes in slow driving. Oh well nothing is perfect
As the OP stated, it's not only the lack of low end torque. The tranny auto upshifts way to early in the rpm range.
I find myself frequently stomping on accelerator to force a downshift. I now drive in fully manual mode all the time.
Silly me, I always thought the only way to have a full manual mode transmission was to have three pedals under the dash. Said another way, I always thought automatic transmissions had two modes, full auto mode, and semi-auto mode.
Silly me, I always thought the only way to have a full manual mode transmission was to have three pedals under the dash. Said another way, I always thought automatic transmissions had two modes, full auto mode, and semi-auto mode.
Funny that you said that, every time I climb into my TL-S. 1st thing I do is reach for the 3rd pedal and press it lol.
Funny that you said that, every time I climb into my TL-S. 1st thing I do is reach for the 3rd pedal and press it lol.
Yeah, I was traveling recently and when I first got into my rental car I hit the clutch, only to have my left foot catch the left edge of the brake pedal; the ABS instantly engaged. "Oops! Sorry," I said to the drivers behind me, "newbie automatic driver here; don't mind me."
thank you all for chiming in. My previous cars were lexus es350, nissan 350z, mini cooper s in the last 10 years. They pretty much had instant power almost at any rpm range and I just found it very strange that this car, like someone said "drones" at low rpm and it's geared way too high when using automatic.
Just needed to know that I wasn't the only one who felt this way, and this wasn't a defect of some sort.
Don't get me wrong, when i use the shiftronic mode and drive at 3.5-4k rpm range, it pulls well and i love how smooth it is. It's just that local slow driving that drives me nuts because it responds slowly unless i downshift using shifter.
The car was owned by a former honda mechanic, so he said he took meticulous care of it. Did the belt, rotors, brakes, battery, etc himself. Not too sure about the transmission flush.
What else should I be looking at doing around 90k mile other than mentioned? He said water pumps are really unnecessary to change because they rarely go bad on these car (or did he say on all honda cars?)
Anyways, that's a little bit of history on the car.
I hope it will last me a long time without giving me too much trouble.
thank you all for chiming in. My previous cars were lexus es350, nissan 350z, mini cooper s in the last 10 years. They pretty much had instant power almost at any rpm range and I just found it very strange that this car, like someone said "drones" at low rpm and it's geared way too high when using automatic.
Just needed to know that I wasn't the only one who felt this way, and this wasn't a defect of some sort.
Don't get me wrong, when i use the shiftronic mode and drive at 3.5-4k rpm range, it pulls well and i love how smooth it is. It's just that local slow driving that drives me nuts because it responds slowly unless i downshift using shifter.
The car was owned by a former honda mechanic, so he said he took meticulous care of it. Did the belt, rotors, brakes, battery, etc himself. Not too sure about the transmission flush.
What else should I be looking at doing around 90k mile other than mentioned? He said water pumps are really unnecessary to change because they rarely go bad on these car (or did he say on all honda cars?)
Anyways, that's a little bit of history on the car.
I hope it will last me a long time without giving me too much trouble.
If you want a car that runs and drives, by all means, do NOT flush the transmission!
Drain and fill only using Honda DW-1 fluid. 3x3 exchange recommended and encouraged.
Also, my water pump failed around 225K miles. You may need it at 120K, or it may last 250K+, or you may need it in a month... I'd still swap it, but it's not necessary, really...
Make sure the belt tensioners are replaced, that is more likely to fail than the OEM belt, some say...
One guy here did the "el cheapo" job by ONLY replacing the belt... Long story short, his old tensioner seized, and it snapped the new belt, his valves and pistons collided, and yes, it ruined his engine... Just wanted to make sure you knew that, just in case you didn't...
On the bright side, sounds like you found a great car!!! Congratulations!!!
01-19-2019, 06:39 PM
Even cruising, I have to keep my RPM above 3K RPM because there's some droning between 2K-2.5K RPM from the exhaust that could get a little annoying.
