LeVeL

2006 TL, 6-speed, ~86k miles. I'd like to do a bunch of preventative maintenance right away. So far I'm thinking:

• Air filter
• Cabin Filter
• Fuel filter
• Trans filter
• Trans fluid
• Spark plugs
• Engine oil + filter
• Coolant
• PS fluid
• Brake fluid
• Clutch fluid

Thoughts? Anything else I need to add?

polobunny

Why spark plugs? I'd make sure they're torqued to spec but otherwise they should be good until 105K service (if not more, but you know, might as well at that point).

LeVeL

On my Miata I change them every 30k or so. Then again, the TL is pretty different - apparently I don't need to replace wires to go with the spark plugs??

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

no, the TL uses coilpacks to create the spark.
you can inspect the spark plugs to see how well they fared, if bad...obviously change out

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

your list looks good.

Enjoy your new car!

polobunny

The spark plugs in the TL are NGK IZFR6K-11 with an iridium center and platinum ground. They can technically well outlast the timing belt service at 105K but it would be stupid to skip that at that point like I said.

LeVeL

Awesome, thanks guys!

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I would do an inspection on the engine mounts and the front lower control arm bushings. The front LCA bushings are known to go quickly and it's likely at 90K they could require replacement.

I'd also consider checking out and or just straight up replacing the engine torque dampener. When I pulled mine at or before your milage, it was toast. Like completely worthless. XLR8 makes a quality upgrade that's not too expensive.

And being a manual you may want to consider doing the slave cylinder check valve delete right from the get go.

LeVeL

I'll look into those. Check valve delete is on my to do list, as well as a short shifter - the TL's is very sloppy and rubbery compared to the short, precise, notchy one in my Miata.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I'd highly recommend just getting the HT spec kit from Marcus.

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/drivetra....1.ss.....html

It made it short and notchy yet still silky smooth for me. Combine that with the check valve delete and it really makes it fun to blaze through those gears.

mc1114

GM Syncromesh for the transmission

Have had 2 Accords 6-speed's and used only that fluid

polobunny

You're obviously not going to get Miata like transmission feel but the check valve delete is on the top of the list for many to improve the feel/way of driving it.

LeVeL

There's certainly no quick fix to substantially change the feel of a gearbox but while the stock shifter in the TL isn't bad by any means, any improvement would be welcome. Speaking of which, do all TLs' clutch pedals engage at the very top of travel?

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Curious as to why you are changing the fuel filter? I know you are doing preventative maintenance but unless you the fuel pressure drops below a specified value, I'd leave it alone.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^didnt even catch that!
plus, it's pretty much inaccessible. part of trunk/fuel tank

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I also thought the transmission filter was one of those 'never needs replaced' type items...

polobunny

It doesn't hurt and its a small job. Might as well if doing switches + 3x3.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^OP drives a manual... But yea small job I guess.

Aren't the filters like built in on the 07-08 so technically they never get replaced?

polobunny

I stand corrected. Move along.

LeVeL

It's a cheap enough part and easy to replace, so I figure why not do it for that little extra peace of mind.

GreenSpades

Best of luck with the maintenance. I am doing the same thing right now. I got my car almost half a year ago.

b15

I would do the timing belt/water pump service now. I wouldn't bother with the coolant flush either since you'll be dumping it out again to change the water pump.

LeVeL

Why would I do the timing belt 20k early? This car will probably only see 5k a year, so doing the belt now is essentially four years earlier than necessary.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I believe, don't quote me I haven't had my coffee yet, that the big service is either 105k miles or 7 years. Well you're 2+ years beyond that.

Just check the belts. If they look fine, which they probably do, you have some time to plan ahead. But I would do it sooner rather than later.

He's right though I wouldn't flush the coolant if there is no need. Just wait for the 105k.

b15

This. My '06 says 7yrs/105k. Obviously I wouldn't change exactly at 7 years but weather and time wear rubber too, not just mileage. It's a 9year old car probably on the original belt on an interference engine. Will it fail? Probabaly not. Is it worth the change for piece of mind, if you plan on keeping it? To me, yes.

white_n_slow

I bought mine at 86k (now at 118k) and here's what I've had to do:

105k service (tbelt, wp, spark plugs)
Front and passenger side motor mount
Obviously oil changes and brake changes as needed.

And that's it! Runs like a champ and has never let me down. I would highly recommend the clutch check valve delete (just did this yesterday), but obviously not required maintenance. A lot of the stuff on your list I wouldn't bother with... just inspect and if it looks good, leave it be.

:edit: and as others have mentioned, use GM syncromesh for your trans fluid change.

white_n_slow

mine is middle/bottom of pedal.

LeVeL

Thanks for all the replies! Updated to-do list:

• Air filter
• Cabin Filter
• Trans filter
• Trans fluid
• PS fluid
• Brake fluid
• Clutch fluid
• Inspect engine mounts front LCA bushings
• Timing belt, water pump, and coolant flush
• Check brakes

Definitely enjoying the car over the last two days that I've had it. I do have a vibration under braking at highway speeds though and the e-brake is weaksauce so I'll look into that too.

b15

Looks good! I have the vibration under highspeed braking too, just haven't gotten around swapping in new rotors.

Does the 6mt TL have a trans filter? I have a 5AT so maybe the manual guys can chime in. I know my 6MT Z does not have one.

Good luck with everything, are you going to DIY or take to a shop? Or both? Haha.

LeVeL

A mix of the two. I don't mind doing mechanical stuff but I hate changing fluids

LeVeL

Going to ditch the clutch slave cylinder check valve this weekend and bleed the clutch fluid while I'm at it. What's the capacity of the entire system (master, slave, lines, etc)? I.e. how much clutch fluid do I need to buy?

LeVeL

Anyone?

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it uses a lot. I can't recall what the "total capacity" in the system is. But you won't use much.

ulrblitzer

None .. but get some brake fluid.

I usually use whats left after bleeding the brake system to do the clutch. The clutch bleeds out really quick. 3-4 repetitions of pump pump pump hold bleed usually does it for me.

OculiAquilae

This guy knows what's up!
Purchased my 06 TL 6spd 12/23/15 from FL, and drove home to MN. When I got home, had about 120k. Needed engine mounts, tensioner, engine torque dampener. Front LCA bushings probably should be replaced (I feel excessive body roll), shouldn't be the suspension. I've also looked into the slave cylinder check valve delete AND the slave cylinder replacement. Haven't done either of the last two, nor my front LCA bushings, but probably should. Hopefully make it through this winter, if not, will do if my clutch pedal acts up again.

OculiAquilae

Good to know. You put it so simply and plainly. I'll definitely do that come spring. Any concerns to worry about?

OculiAquilae

Close! *GM Synchromesh Friction Modified is a MUST!

OculiAquilae

As for clutch engagement. Mine STARTS to barely grab low-mid, with the real grab starting at the top of the peddle travel. I've read/heard this is normal and to be expected when your clutch is in good condition.