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New owner of '08 NBP TL Type S

 
Old 04-21-2019, 10:17 PM
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New owner of '08 NBP TL Type S

Hi all, happy to join (re-join) the Acura family my first car in high school was a sweet '97 GBP Acura Integra LS, and now I'm finally returning to team Acura 11 years later.

Picked up a lovely 2008 Acura TL Type S with the 5AT, 108k miles and meticulously maintained (luckily the previous owner the 105k and some extra preventative maintenance). Only had her for a week now, but I've done the mid muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install, along with LED interior/exterior bulbs and planning to do matching HID headlight/LED fog light/LED DRL out front. Once Houston weather stabilizes, I'm looking forward to doing a deep detail, clay bar, and wax for the car.

Few questions for you guys-

1) Coming from a '11 Infiniti G37, of which the VQ37 had great results with 0W40 - wondering if the J35 would do well with Mobil 1 0W40 in the heat of Houston, or if its too thick. I've always noted Mobil 1's 0W40 as being akin to a thick 0W30 oil with better additive pack than the rest of Mobil 1 offerings. Figured I'd ask as I have a stockpile of 0W40 that would be nice to use

2) Have a valve cover gasket that's leaking - looking to replace that soon, are there any other items I should look in to replacing while in there? Also, if anyone has an idea of general cost of replacing the valve cover? I've gotten quotes of around $400-500 including parts and labor.

3) Motor mounts seem to be hanging in there, but I have done light research on the Innovative motor mounts available for our cars for a future replacement. As this is my daily driver, I want to keep the car pretty vibration free - would it be best to bite the bullet on OEMs, or perhaps run the Innovative front and side mounts, then only replace the rear with an OEM mount?

4) Struts seem to be fairly worn, will probably need replacing in the next few years. Any recommendations on good OEM replacements or perhaps an improved one for better ride?

5) Tires for the OEM TL Type S wheels - seems to be a split consensus on 245/45/17 or 255/40/17. I've historically ran only 245 wide tires on 8" wheels but figured I'd ask for any additional input on ride quality or wear difference? Leaning towards 245/45/17 currently for the slightly wider tread and less stretch on the tires.

6) Paint chips out front are pretty plentiful - anyone recommend OEM touch-up paint or any alternatives? I've heard great things about Dr. Colorchip

7) I've got a strange whooshing noise that comes from my AC, and the middle passenger vent seems to not really let much air out. Anyone have any similar symptoms? Trying to figure it out to see if I can get rid of that noise.

8) I get the light on for tighten fuel cap message randomly, usually on bumpy roads. Seems to be a very common problem, but has anyone established a reliable fix?

Lot of questions, but thus far really enjoying the car. Future plans - adding an RV6 V3 Long Tube J-Pipe and possibly Magnaflow 11365 mufflers to give it more of an aggressive tone. Hopefully there's not too much drone on that set up





Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install

Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator
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Old 04-21-2019, 11:29 PM
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I live in Houston and have used the M1 0w-40 on my 06 TL...although the HTHS rate is lacking in that oil....

2) we dont know because we cant inspect the car....whoever is doing the work should inspect for other damage...then replace or repair accordingly.

3) you're asking a subjective question, as everyone has a different tolerance of "too stiff"...assuming your G was/is tighter than the TL....

4) if you want OEM, buy OEM. lol

5) tire wear is dependent on type of rubber compound not how wide..

6) again, if you're looking for an OEM option, why not just buy OEM touch up paint?????


8) yes, common for ALL types of cars...Not just honda/acura... tighten fuel cap is related to the EVAP purge canister valve.

Last edited by justnspace; 04-21-2019 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:31 PM
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1) Cool, I'll probably try Mobil 1 0W40 and see how it works out

2) Had the valve gasket replace amongst other items in the vicinity, cost me $480.

3) That's fair - the G is definitely tighter than the TL, but figured it was worth checking how the Innovative 60a motor mounts (front and side only) would compare to stock mounts.

4) Haha, we'll see. I'll be doing more research

5) That's true, but I'm used to topping out at 245 width tires on 8" wheels. TBD since my tires are still usable.

6) Haven't heard great things about OEM touch up paint :P

7) Figured the AC out, just low on refrigerant. Probably have a leak somewhere

8) Thanks, did some research - doesn't too bad of a fix.
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Old 04-25-2019, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hiryuu View Post
Hi all, happy to join (re-join) the Acura family my first car in high school was a sweet '97 GBP Acura Integra LS, and now I'm finally returning to team Acura 11 years later.

Picked up a lovely 2008 Acura TL Type S with the 5AT, 108k miles and meticulously maintained (luckily the previous owner the 105k and some extra preventative maintenance). Only had her for a week now, but I've done the mid muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install, along with LED interior/exterior bulbs and planning to do matching HID headlight/LED fog light/LED DRL out front. Once Houston weather stabilizes, I'm looking forward to doing a deep detail, clay bar, and wax for the car.

Few questions for you guys-

1) Coming from a '11 Infiniti G37, of which the VQ37 had great results with 0W40 - wondering if the J35 would do well with Mobil 1 0W40 in the heat of Houston, or if its too thick. I've always noted Mobil 1's 0W40 as being akin to a thick 0W30 oil with better additive pack than the rest of Mobil 1 offerings. Figured I'd ask as I have a stockpile of 0W40 that would be nice to use

2) Have a valve cover gasket that's leaking - looking to replace that soon, are there any other items I should look in to replacing while in there? Also, if anyone has an idea of general cost of replacing the valve cover? I've gotten quotes of around $400-500 including parts and labor.

3) Motor mounts seem to be hanging in there, but I have done light research on the Innovative motor mounts available for our cars for a future replacement. As this is my daily driver, I want to keep the car pretty vibration free - would it be best to bite the bullet on OEMs, or perhaps run the Innovative front and side mounts, then only replace the rear with an OEM mount?

4) Struts seem to be fairly worn, will probably need replacing in the next few years. Any recommendations on good OEM replacements or perhaps an improved one for better ride?

5) Tires for the OEM TL Type S wheels - seems to be a split consensus on 245/45/17 or 255/40/17. I've historically ran only 245 wide tires on 8" wheels but figured I'd ask for any additional input on ride quality or wear difference? Leaning towards 245/45/17 currently for the slightly wider tread and less stretch on the tires.

6) Paint chips out front are pretty plentiful - anyone recommend OEM touch-up paint or any alternatives? I've heard great things about Dr. Colorchip

7) I've got a strange whooshing noise that comes from my AC, and the middle passenger vent seems to not really let much air out. Anyone have any similar symptoms? Trying to figure it out to see if I can get rid of that noise.

8) I get the light on for tighten fuel cap message randomly, usually on bumpy roads. Seems to be a very common problem, but has anyone established a reliable fix?

Lot of questions, but thus far really enjoying the car. Future plans - adding an RV6 V3 Long Tube J-Pipe and possibly Magnaflow 11365 mufflers to give it more of an aggressive tone. Hopefully there's not too much drone on that set up





Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install

Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator
I'd recommend M1 5W-20 EP oil, you can go up to 5W30 but you'll notice less power and MPG. Be sure to use a good oil filter!

As far as valve covers go, replace spark plug tube seals also while you are there and new spark plugs if not done at 105K miles. You should do the 105K mile service which is water pump, timing belt, coolant flush, new plugs and gaskets as needed.

OEM mounts or beck mounts are good, innovative seem good in concept but vibrate too much for a DD esp with A/C on.

Struts -> If you want stock height go with KYB's and stock springs. YOu want firmer you can go with Koni Yellows with springs to lower the car also. Cheapest route is BC BR coilovers which are amazing but they do lower the car a bit. Once you lower the car you'll notice your axles will need to be replaced due to vibrations.

Tires depends on what type of tire you want. High Performance tires come in a bit more limited size so if you wanted the continental Extreme contact sport summer tire (can be driven in 40F or above) you'll need a slightly different size. If you are going with Ultra High Performance All Season continental DWS in 245/45/17 should be great and give a tiny bit more rim protection.


You are probably low on refrigerant and may have metal in the system. You'll need a fill up and maybe a new compressor (about $200). Might need a new drier element also and maybe other parts if there's a leak in the A/C system.

Fuel cap is a common issue! First fix the issues before you mod!
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:40 AM
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Thanks for all of your input.

I'll probably stick with 0W30 and 0W40 for the Houston weather. I'm fine with lower MPG, just want that bit of extra protection and stronger additive pack on the 40 weight Mobil 1. I have stock piled a bunch of Fram Ultra oil filters, so should be solid on that end

Good call on the valve cover gasket, the shop I used did replace spark plug tube seals and rear seal, PCV valve as well. Luckily the previous owner did the 105k mile service @ 90k miles so I am clear for those major items.

Appreciate the input on the motor mounts, I think I will bite the bullet for OEMs. Definitely do not want heavy vibrations with A/C due to to Houston summers being rough.

I'll check out the KYB and Koni Yellows struts, probably don't want to lower so would the Yellows be worth the extra expense? Presume they might be higher quality and longer lasting

Tires - I was thinking about Continental DWS06 in 245/45/17 or 255/40/17 for daily driving

A/C - yup you are likely right, I had the shop recharge the refrigerant and hopefully if it continues to leak, we'll identify it later and repair. Do you know if the A/C compressors typically go bad around 100k / 10 years?

The fuel cap thing doesn't necessarily seem like an urgent fix, so I've refrained from it thus far.

And lastly, got my RV6 J-Pipe and Magnaflow mufflers ordered so I'm excited
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Old 04-26-2019, 01:01 PM
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Looks like you have a lot of your questions answered, so, I'll just welcome you to the forum and congrats on your new to you TL-S.
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Old 05-07-2019, 03:01 PM
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The TIGHTEN FUEL CAP message is usually not the Fuel Cap, but the Purge Control Solenoid Valve. The message will appear EVERY time you start the TL until the valve is replaced. part # 36162-RDV-J01
This part has been revised multiple times by Honda as it is a common issue with these models. they were formerly manufactured in Mexico, but are now Made in Japan.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Will4781 View Post
The TIGHTEN FUEL CAP message is usually not the Fuel Cap, but the Purge Control Solenoid Valve. The message will appear EVERY time you start the TL until the valve is replaced. part # 36162-RDV-J01
This part has been revised multiple times by Honda as it is a common issue with these models. they were formerly manufactured in Mexico, but are now Made in Japan.
Thanks, I've looked into that - it's such an annoying quirk but I haven't decided to fix it yet since it's ~$100ish+
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Old 05-10-2019, 10:08 PM
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nice to see another TX TL.
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