New owner of '08 NBP TL Type S
 

Hi all, happy to join (re-join) the Acura family :) my first car in high school was a sweet '97 GBP Acura Integra LS, and now I'm finally returning to team Acura 11 years later.

Picked up a lovely 2008 Acura TL Type S with the 5AT, 108k miles and meticulously maintained (luckily the previous owner the 105k and some extra preventative maintenance). Only had her for a week now, but I've done the mid muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install, along with LED interior/exterior bulbs and planning to do matching HID headlight/LED fog light/LED DRL out front. Once Houston weather stabilizes, I'm looking forward to doing a deep detail, clay bar, and wax for the car.

Few questions for you guys-

1) Coming from a '11 Infiniti G37, of which the VQ37 had great results with 0W40 - wondering if the J35 would do well with Mobil 1 0W40 in the heat of Houston, or if its too thick. I've always noted Mobil 1's 0W40 as being akin to a thick 0W30 oil with better additive pack than the rest of Mobil 1 offerings. Figured I'd ask as I have a stockpile of 0W40 that would be nice to use :)

2) Have a valve cover gasket that's leaking - looking to replace that soon, are there any other items I should look in to replacing while in there? Also, if anyone has an idea of general cost of replacing the valve cover? I've gotten quotes of around $400-500 including parts and labor.

3) Motor mounts seem to be hanging in there, but I have done light research on the Innovative motor mounts available for our cars for a future replacement. As this is my daily driver, I want to keep the car pretty vibration free - would it be best to bite the bullet on OEMs, or perhaps run the Innovative front and side mounts, then only replace the rear with an OEM mount?

4) Struts seem to be fairly worn, will probably need replacing in the next few years. Any recommendations on good OEM replacements or perhaps an improved one for better ride?

5) Tires for the OEM TL Type S wheels - seems to be a split consensus on 245/45/17 or 255/40/17. I've historically ran only 245 wide tires on 8" wheels but figured I'd ask for any additional input on ride quality or wear difference? Leaning towards 245/45/17 currently for the slightly wider tread and less stretch on the tires.

6) Paint chips out front are pretty plentiful - anyone recommend OEM touch-up paint or any alternatives? I've heard great things about Dr. Colorchip

7) I've got a strange whooshing noise that comes from my AC, and the middle passenger vent seems to not really let much air out. Anyone have any similar symptoms? Trying to figure it out to see if I can get rid of that noise.

8) I get the light on for tighten fuel cap message randomly, usually on bumpy roads. Seems to be a very common problem, but has anyone established a reliable fix?

Lot of questions, but thus far really enjoying the car. Future plans - adding an RV6 V3 Long Tube J-Pipe and possibly Magnaflow 11365 mufflers to give it more of an aggressive tone. Hopefully there's not too much drone on that set up :)


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Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install
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Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator

I live in Houston and have used the M1 0w-40 on my 06 TL...although the HTHS rate is lacking in that oil....

2) we dont know because we cant inspect the car....whoever is doing the work should inspect for other damage...then replace or repair accordingly.

3) you're asking a subjective question, as everyone has a different tolerance of "too stiff"...assuming your G was/is tighter than the TL....

4) if you want OEM, buy OEM. lol

5) tire wear is dependent on type of rubber compound not how wide..

6) again, if you're looking for an OEM option, why not just buy OEM touch up paint?????


8) yes, common for ALL types of cars...Not just honda/acura... tighten fuel cap is related to the EVAP purge canister valve.

1) Cool, I'll probably try Mobil 1 0W40 and see how it works out :)

2) Had the valve gasket replace amongst other items in the vicinity, cost me $480.

3) That's fair - the G is definitely tighter than the TL, but figured it was worth checking how the Innovative 60a motor mounts (front and side only) would compare to stock mounts.

4) Haha, we'll see. I'll be doing more research

5) That's true, but I'm used to topping out at 245 width tires on 8" wheels. TBD since my tires are still usable.

6) Haven't heard great things about OEM touch up paint :P

7) Figured the AC out, just low on refrigerant. Probably have a leak somewhere

8) Thanks, did some research - doesn't too bad of a fix.

I'd recommend M1 5W-20 EP oil, you can go up to 5W30 but you'll notice less power and MPG. Be sure to use a good oil filter!

As far as valve covers go, replace spark plug tube seals also while you are there and new spark plugs if not done at 105K miles. You should do the 105K mile service which is water pump, timing belt, coolant flush, new plugs and gaskets as needed.

OEM mounts or beck mounts are good, innovative seem good in concept but vibrate too much for a DD esp with A/C on.

Struts -> If you want stock height go with KYB's and stock springs. YOu want firmer you can go with Koni Yellows with springs to lower the car also. Cheapest route is BC BR coilovers which are amazing but they do lower the car a bit. Once you lower the car you'll notice your axles will need to be replaced due to vibrations.

Tires depends on what type of tire you want. High Performance tires come in a bit more limited size so if you wanted the continental Extreme contact sport summer tire (can be driven in 40F or above) you'll need a slightly different size. If you are going with Ultra High Performance All Season continental DWS in 245/45/17 should be great and give a tiny bit more rim protection.


You are probably low on refrigerant and may have metal in the system. You'll need a fill up and maybe a new compressor (about $200). Might need a new drier element also and maybe other parts if there's a leak in the A/C system.

Fuel cap is a common issue! First fix the issues before you mod!

Thanks for all of your input.

I'll probably stick with 0W30 and 0W40 for the Houston weather. I'm fine with lower MPG, just want that bit of extra protection and stronger additive pack on the 40 weight Mobil 1. I have stock piled a bunch of Fram Ultra oil filters, so should be solid on that end

Good call on the valve cover gasket, the shop I used did replace spark plug tube seals and rear seal, PCV valve as well. Luckily the previous owner did the 105k mile service @ 90k miles so I am clear for those major items.

Appreciate the input on the motor mounts, I think I will bite the bullet for OEMs. Definitely do not want heavy vibrations with A/C due to to Houston summers being rough.

I'll check out the KYB and Koni Yellows struts, probably don't want to lower so would the Yellows be worth the extra expense? Presume they might be higher quality and longer lasting

Tires - I was thinking about Continental DWS06 in 245/45/17 or 255/40/17 for daily driving

A/C - yup you are likely right, I had the shop recharge the refrigerant and hopefully if it continues to leak, we'll identify it later and repair. Do you know if the A/C compressors typically go bad around 100k / 10 years?

The fuel cap thing doesn't necessarily seem like an urgent fix, so I've refrained from it thus far.

And lastly, got my RV6 J-Pipe and Magnaflow mufflers ordered so I'm excited :D

Looks like you have a lot of your questions answered, so, I'll just welcome you to the forum and congrats on your new to you TL-S.

The TIGHTEN FUEL CAP message is usually not the Fuel Cap, but the Purge Control Solenoid Valve. The message will appear EVERY time you start the TL until the valve is replaced. part # 36162-RDV-J01
This part has been revised multiple times by Honda as it is a common issue with these models. they were formerly manufactured in Mexico, but are now Made in Japan.

Thanks, I've looked into that - it's such an annoying quirk but I haven't decided to fix it yet since it's ~$100ish+

nice to see another TX TL.

Curious, what muffler is everyone getting to replace the stock 2007-2008 TL Type S while keeping the stock tips? I was looking at the Magnaflow 11365 but it seems to be a 1 inlet, 1 outlet muffler.

FYI, I tried 0W40 and had noticeably higher (double) metal wear (iron) on the UOA. It went right back to normal on the next drain using 5w20.

Is that anecdotal? Maybe, maybe not. But I'm not going to risk it, especially when quality semi-syn 5w20 or 0w20 gives you plenty of protection over a normal interval.

OP, go ahead and try it if you want, but I'd run comparative UOA's for peace of mind ...

You gotta be Ant-Man to feel the molecular changes..
There was no difference driving, except the specs say it isn't up to par... And your UOA proved it

^^^^ not sure what you mean by specs not being up to par. The specs (7.5 years ago) seemed to be everything that M1 claimed. I just suspect that it may be too thick for the tight tolerances of the J32 which was engineered for 0W20 oil. Think about it: where do we have steel (iron) in the J32?

I'd love to see someone else do a comparative UOA, but it won't be me...

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Wow they are ripping you off! My friend who has a TL who has worked at Honda for many years said he will do my valve cover gaskets for $60. :) Just labor. I say replace the intake manifold gaskets, and throttle body gasket. Not sure what else there is to replace.

Very nice TL-S! Congrats! They are amazing cars!

$60?? Wow, that's a steal IMO.

Does your friend know that the intake manifold has to be pulled?

Yeah he did the timing belt kit and valve adjustment on mine. He has been a Honda tech for over 10 years.

Yeah I am sure he does LOL. I am surprised when he quoted me at $60 to do it. Especially after reading the how-to on the valve cover gasket and watching a youtube video. Something I didn't feel like messing with. Maybe he is hooking it up because I wanted the valve cover gasket done during timing belt, but he said it would be fine and they rarely leak/seap at 80k miles.

Crazy that it's been over 3 years since I snagged this TL-S and only incurred an extra 18k miles. Since then, upgraded the Progress rear sway bar, replaced stock struts with Koni STR.T orange, had ceramic coating applied after repainting the front bumper/spoiler/shark fin. Been a great daily averaging 20-24 mpg over the years, but finally looking to put it up for sale pending delivery of a 2023 Kia Stinger GT2 in Micro Blue.

Definitely going to miss the TL, but looking forward to a twin turbo V6 and new amenities (ventilated seats!!).

From TL-S to Stinger GT2!
 

Bittersweet last week of being an '08 TL Type S owner. It was my coveted car since high school, and it's been a great 4 years of ownership. Detailing her one last time on Monday and sold her, but picked up a 2023 Stinger GT2!

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Couldn't justify keeping both of them, since wife and I just had our first kiddo a few months ago. The TL goes to a new owner that I believe will take care of her :)
It's been fun! Thanks for all the interesting posts and knowledge share.

Wow, your Stinger looks sharp. How much did it cost you OTD for it? Were you considering any other cars (TLX Type-S) before committing to the Stinger?

After you put come miles on it, can you share your experience and give it a review for us?

I too am curious of your thoughts after putting more miles and comparing the 2 cars.
what was your reason for selling? You mention the turbo v6 and ventilated seats, any other things you were looking for?
I think you will miss the cassette player in the TL, bad decision, but you have to learn from your mistakes :)

I was lucky enough to lock in MSRP pricing, though I had to fly to Dallas and drive it back to Houston. Pricing was $52,935 plus TTL (6.25%), and a few fees like state registration, documentation fee. $56,685 out the door. Zero add-ons or markups/adjustments. Local Houston dealers were wanting anywhere between 3-10k markup, which is ridiculous.

I was considering four other vehicles - Genesis G70 Sport Prestige RWD (sportier and more refined than Stinger, but the backseat and trunk was too small and we just had a newborn), TLX Type S /w summer tire/wheels (this one was tempting blue on red interior is 10/10), Audi S5 Sportback (great interior, but I enjoyed the others drive more), and BMW M340i (my second pick - the fastest / most tunable, but the Stinger felt more special). I love the TLX-S styling and exhaust note, and it handles pretty well for the heavy weight but I wasn't a huge fan of the interior styling or size of rear seats compared to the physical body size. It's definitely not as quick as the other options, though that wasn't my top criteria.

The Stinger just hit all the right spots - twin turbo V6, solid backseat and huge liftback trunk, tons of amenities, and unique styling. I will report back more after I add more mods to the car. I have Eibach front/rear sway bars, ATQ subframe collars in my garage, and those should hopefully tighten up the car. I know the rear sway bar made a HUGE difference on the TL :)

Stinger GT2 vs TLX Type S though, my opinions
Performance/Potential Tuning - Stinger
Styling - Subjective, I like both - TLX is arguably meaner looking, but Stinger stands out
Engine noise - TLX
Handling - Tie
Interior - Stinger. One random note, I am not a fan of the push button shifter on the TLX
Sound system - Stinger by a hair
Practicality - Stinger

So after a week of driving and 400 miles, the Stinger is much more responsive (twin turbo V6 with tons of torque down low vs N/A V6 after all) especially in Sport mode, more comfortable/refined, clearer audio system and bluetooth calling, tons of tuning potential per research on Stingerforum.org and stands out in Blue Pearl amongst the sea of typical sedan/SUVs in black/gray/silver/white. I've received more stranger compliments in a week of ownership, than I have in my TL-S and previous G37S Coupe over the last 7 years haha. I feel like the Stinger is a perfect successor to the TL-S, which I needed to sell since we had a newborn 3 months ago and it's hard to justify two cars that perform the same duties as a daily.

The TL-S steering feel is better IMO, most current electric power steering setups don't feel as tight as a solid hydraulic setup. I also like that the TL-S felt and drove like a smaller car, than it was actually was physically. The 3G TL-S has aged amazingly well though, it still looks great today, drives smoothly, has tons of features, and though it has its flaws - it's a highly reliable platform.

Funny enough, I may actually miss the cassette player. It wasn't regularly used, but we had some old recordings from early childhood in tape that we would pop in once a blue moon for laughs.

Thanks for your review/comparison.
I have to say that I don’t fully understand this craze about NA cars. Granted I’m a dinosaur, but back in my days… turbo was the cool thing to have. In high school, my cousin bought a used 1995 eagle Talon TSI AWD (basically a Mitsubishi Eclipse gsx) and that thing was awesome. He had a few mods and I absolutely loved that turbo spool and boost build. Then my parents got a Volvo S70 T5, again, absolutely awesome!
I mean, don’t get me wrong, some NA engines are really fun to rev up and sound great. If I had to guess, I would say that turbo engines now get knocked down because they are so common and also because they are muffled and neutered. I drove a 2018 Porsche Carrera S manual 4 years ago (the 3.0 turbo engine) and I was pretty disappointed. I just expected my cousins 1995 Talon, just more and that’s not what I got. It was a splendid daily driver, power delivery at any rpm, but no turbo whoosh, lag at anything above 1400 rpm was not perceivable, it was just not as exciting as I had expected. Meanwhile I had driven a 2012 Carrera S 3.8L NA engine and that had a lot more personality.
Enjoy the stinger! Thanks for sharing pictures of your new toy and congrats on the addition to the family!

i don't know why Houston always has car shortage (even before Covid) and the pricing are insane (dealer price). Dallas market seem to have more selection and most of the time it cheaper as well. Congrats on the new car tho, If i have to guess you are in the Richmond area?

Well, turbos are all the craze nowadays. You see them in economy cars, mid-range/luxury vehicles, hardcore sports/supercars. You are correct, most turbo motors are a bit "restricted" these days in terms of meh vacuum whooshing engine and exhaust notes, and focus on smooth power delivery or gas mileage whereas before they were all about maximize peak power and had turbo lag hahah.

Well, we have had several major Hurricanes and flooding events. Lots of cars have been wiped out this past 10 years, and a ton of people have moved to Houston thus the used and new car market are super hot. Pretty close guess, I am out in Katy :)


Anywho one month update - haven't installed most of the aftermarket parts yet, enjoying it stock but definitely feeling the itch for the sway bar kit. Have drove her during my highway commutes and she's been supremely comfortable and getting decent 23-25 mpg. Also had the Stinger detailed, paint corrected, and ceramic coated.

I ordered some Stance SF07 wheels in 19s but it'll take some time to come in.
Stock tires are definitely too skinny for the high power - 225/40/19 and 255/35/19s. I'm eying 245/40/19 and 285/35/19 once these are worn out

Somewhat missing the TL-S, but she's gone to a good enthusiast owner who just had the front end re-ceramic coated and re-tinted the entire car.