My 30,000 mile service - loads of pics and video
06-04-2010, 09:36 AM
#42
Racer
does the 30k service change much for 6sp? obviously dont have to change the ATF! i have new tires, new brakes, oil has been changed...so just engine filter, in-cabin filter, possibly manual tranny fluid?? what else??
thanks guys!
thanks guys!
06-14-2010, 08:52 PM
#43
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As many have said, Fantastic write up!!!!
I just wish my ATF bolt was as clean as yours. mine is slightly corroded or just plain dirty on top. cleaned it up as good as I could, but not near as pristine as the OP's.
At first I tried taking the fuse box out of the way and that was just a pain in the ass and did not get it out. Then I realized I did not have long enough extension for my wrench (and this is after I had the car jacked up and done some other work on it) so had to take it down, run up to store and get extension.
Once I had a 10" extension plus another 3" I was set. I did not have to move the fuse box, you can squeeze in and get it, just takes patience.
Overall, nice and easy project here, and saves some money.
I have completed 2 x 3, going to drive around some more tonight and to work and back tomorrow, then complete the third change wed. I did get more than 3qt on the first drain though, then right at 3qt the second drain.
Overall, she is shifting much much smoother!!!! well worth time and money invested.
I just wish my ATF bolt was as clean as yours. mine is slightly corroded or just plain dirty on top. cleaned it up as good as I could, but not near as pristine as the OP's.
At first I tried taking the fuse box out of the way and that was just a pain in the ass and did not get it out. Then I realized I did not have long enough extension for my wrench (and this is after I had the car jacked up and done some other work on it) so had to take it down, run up to store and get extension.
Once I had a 10" extension plus another 3" I was set. I did not have to move the fuse box, you can squeeze in and get it, just takes patience.
Overall, nice and easy project here, and saves some money.
I have completed 2 x 3, going to drive around some more tonight and to work and back tomorrow, then complete the third change wed. I did get more than 3qt on the first drain though, then right at 3qt the second drain.
Overall, she is shifting much much smoother!!!! well worth time and money invested.
06-15-2010, 01:39 AM
#44
damn nice job on the write up. Alot of effort, thank you sir! ATF drain is as easy as an oil change. I have a question tho, is everyone putting their jackstands on the on the little ledge that you usually use for the oem jack? I have a hard time getting my jack stands there cuz my floor jack dont go that high. Are there other places that are easier to fit the stand in, and can hold the car up higher?
06-15-2010, 01:44 PM
#45
Team Owner
Nice pictures and writeup but why why why why would you seafoam a 30,000 mile engine?!?!
Also, why would you waste money on the crappy factory Z1 fluid where there are so much better choices out there?
Also, why would you waste money on the crappy factory Z1 fluid where there are so much better choices out there?
06-15-2010, 06:31 PM
#46
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^^^^ 30,000 city some highway miles? The car is three years old so why wouldn't he do it? What is the effects on the car by doing it at any milage? It seems that you think this does more harm than good...Care to explain? OP has told me that since he did the seafoam, he has seen a remarkable bump in his mpg. Not every 30,000 miles is created equal.....I do 30,000 in six months.....The op does it in three years....Seafoam seems to be the way to go in three years.
06-15-2010, 07:15 PM
#47
Team Owner
^^^^ 30,000 city some highway miles? The car is three years old so why wouldn't he do it? What is the effects on the car by doing it at any milage? It seems that you think this does more harm than good...Care to explain? OP has told me that since he did the seafoam, he has seen a remarkable bump in his mpg. Not every 30,000 miles is created equal.....I do 30,000 in six months.....The op does it in three years....Seafoam seems to be the way to go in three years.
Mileage is almost irrelevent. Sure, the engine turns more total revolutions in 30,000 miles of city driving vs steady state freeway at 2,000rpm for hours on end. However, carbon tends to accumulate quicker at light loads and low rpms. Time is not an issue.
Seafoaming a 30,000 mile engine is no different than Seafoaming a brand new TL. There is practically no carbon buildup at that mileage. I've had the heads off of many engines and it's unbelievable someone would do a decarbonization below 100K. Saying you saw a mpg increase after this would be like taking your brand new TL home from the dealer and seafoaming it and claiming a mpg jump. If there is nothing wrong in the first place how do you expect to see a change?
It has the potential to do more harm than good. It's a solvent and it burns but it doesn't burn well. It can screw up 02 sensors and cats. You can injest too much and cause other more serious problems. It can wash down the cylinder walls. It can foul out plugs. It can dilute the oil. If there is any major carbon buildup, there's a host of other issues.
A decarbonization is supposed to get rid of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Getting rid of the carbon buildup eliminates hotspots and increased mechanical compression which will increase the liklihood of detonation. I didn't see him complaining of pinging or surging beforehand which are signs of detonation. And the real kicker is water does the exact same thing and it's free.
Using it in the crankcase... It's a solvent. It's not supposed to be in there. It drastically lowers film strength of the oil. It's considered a harsh cleaner.
In the fuel system, nothing wrong with that. It may or may not be needed but there are no negatives. Running it on a top tier premium fuel for it's whole life it should never need one but if I bought the car used I would probably use it for a couple tanks.
It's his car to do what he wants but for new members reading all of these Seafoam threads and wasting money on seafoaming practically new engines with the small but present danger of hurting something, something needs to be said.
06-18-2010, 12:15 PM
#48
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Great post - did you also replace the engine air filter? If so how do you get the cap off the air filter compartment? Can't for the life of me get the four screws off. Can't believe Honda/Acura designed it so poorly. From your pictures it looks like you have a modified system, but any help on a regular 2006 TL engine air filter replacement would be appreciated.
Thx - Dan
Thx - Dan
06-18-2010, 12:22 PM
#49
07-15-2010, 05:11 PM
#50
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Shudder/shivver gone after tranny flush..
Replaced my AT fluid 2 days ago. Old fluid was totally black like used motor oil. Car was bought @ 73K 2 months ago.
Transmission used to jerk like a fishing pulling your bait - at 2K rpm: now it is gone.
Used a long 3/8 outside diameter 1/2" inside diameter vinyl tube connected to a funnel
(You can get the tube from Lowe store - plumbing section).
The AT bolt was just too tight for my hand and hammer to open
Transmission used to jerk like a fishing pulling your bait - at 2K rpm: now it is gone.
Used a long 3/8 outside diameter 1/2" inside diameter vinyl tube connected to a funnel
(You can get the tube from Lowe store - plumbing section).
The AT bolt was just too tight for my hand and hammer to open
Last edited by redzuan; 07-15-2010 at 05:13 PM.
07-15-2010, 07:38 PM
#54
Very cool job on the work and the post!
Couple things....
1)
Next time pop open the green vent cap when draining into this bucket to prevent the oil-lake formation. It should all drain down and not pool up.
2) Props on the ATF! Don't use anything but factory stuff. Honda transmissions are picky enough. As much as people will tell you how much better their new stuff is than the old stuff....DUH! You need to put new stuff, not different stuff. I dunno. Coming from and ex Honda tech and parts guy, get OEM fluid.
3) Where the hell have I been? 9 qts ATF? Cabin air filter access mod? WTF?
4) Where is the brake fluid change? You should do it every year or 15k, even though the factory doesn't mention it.
Marcus
Couple things....
1)
Next time pop open the green vent cap when draining into this bucket to prevent the oil-lake formation. It should all drain down and not pool up.
2) Props on the ATF! Don't use anything but factory stuff. Honda transmissions are picky enough. As much as people will tell you how much better their new stuff is than the old stuff....DUH! You need to put new stuff, not different stuff. I dunno. Coming from and ex Honda tech and parts guy, get OEM fluid.
3) Where the hell have I been? 9 qts ATF? Cabin air filter access mod? WTF?
4) Where is the brake fluid change? You should do it every year or 15k, even though the factory doesn't mention it.
Marcus
07-15-2010, 07:41 PM
#55
Team Owner
Very cool job on the work and the post!
Couple things....
1)
Next time pop open the green vent cap when draining into this bucket to prevent the oil-lake formation. It should all drain down and not pool up.
2) Props on the ATF! Don't use anything but factory stuff. Honda transmissions are picky enough. As much as people will tell you how much better their new stuff is than the old stuff....DUH! You need to put new stuff, not different stuff. I dunno. Coming from and ex Honda tech and parts guy, get OEM fluid.
3) Where the hell have I been? 9 qts ATF? Cabin air filter access mod? WTF?
4) Where is the brake fluid change? You should do it every year or 15k, even though the factory doesn't mention it.
Marcus
Couple things....
1)
Next time pop open the green vent cap when draining into this bucket to prevent the oil-lake formation. It should all drain down and not pool up.
2) Props on the ATF! Don't use anything but factory stuff. Honda transmissions are picky enough. As much as people will tell you how much better their new stuff is than the old stuff....DUH! You need to put new stuff, not different stuff. I dunno. Coming from and ex Honda tech and parts guy, get OEM fluid.
3) Where the hell have I been? 9 qts ATF? Cabin air filter access mod? WTF?
4) Where is the brake fluid change? You should do it every year or 15k, even though the factory doesn't mention it.
Marcus
Brake fluid should be replaced on a time basis, not mileage.
07-15-2010, 07:49 PM
#57
Team Owner
There's tons of info on this subject. Short version, the factory Z1 is junk by 30K. You can continue to change every 15-30K or run an aftermarket fluid for a longer interval. Honda's recommendation is waaaay too long for the ATF.
07-15-2010, 08:06 PM
#58
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Once a year sounds right in certain conditions but every 15k miles? That would mean I would be changing my brake fluide every 3 months which would be a hell of a pain in the ass if that were true. Once a year seems a little much but I would be doing that if say I was in heavy bumper to bumper traffic day after day with hard sudden stops. For those of us in the other parts of the world, you can get away with it for a lot longer.
07-16-2010, 03:13 PM
#60
Come on, you're back in the stone age when it comes to using Z1 only. I have 93,000 miles on aftermarket ATF and it shifts better than new. Z1 is the worst fluid out there, I did not know people stil bought into this whole "stick with the factory stuff or your trans will blow" stuff. It's a real dis-service to recommend people use factory stuff when they can get more trans life with a different fluid. I can't believe the factory's scare tactics still work.
Brake fluid should be replaced on a time basis, not mileage.
Brake fluid should be replaced on a time basis, not mileage.
I put a mileage interval on the brake fluid because it seems like cars with heavier use could stand a flush more often. It is cheap and easy and never hurts to be more anal about it.
Once a year sounds right in certain conditions but every 15k miles? That would mean I would be changing my brake fluide every 3 months which would be a hell of a pain in the ass if that were true. Once a year seems a little much but I would be doing that if say I was in heavy bumper to bumper traffic day after day with hard sudden stops. For those of us in the other parts of the world, you can get away with it for a lot longer.
This is correct. The RV6 and FLP braces only came about because of a need to replace the stock bar that is removed with EDFC installation. I can't say anything about the RV6, but the FLP brace is much more heavy duty than the stock bar. The stock bar is pretty decent, but stiffer bracing is going to be a little more effective when driving harder.
07-16-2010, 04:48 PM
#61
Team Owner
Well, that has not always been the case, I think you know. The Z1 has historically been the best stuff to get for Honda transmissions. Not wanting to date myself, in the late 90's we saw more problems with aftermarket ATF than with the stock stuff. Maybe it wasn't true, but it sure seemed like it. If there is something better to use I am all ears. I would not call it scare tactics though. Honda chemicals are all really good. I'd blame the marketing people for rounding up the change intervals so much. I feel the same with ATF as I do with oil. The important thing is to CHANGE IT. Not as much what you put in.
I put a mileage interval on the brake fluid because it seems like cars with heavier use could stand a flush more often. It is cheap and easy and never hurts to be more anal about it.
Rack up 15k in 3 months? WOW! So do you change your oil monthly? If you drive a lot you should expect to need to do more maintenance. Maybe 15k is too often for you, but I would at least do it every 30k. Once a year is a good time frame really. The hard sudden stops aren't the reason why...contamination enters the fluid over time, even when not in use. You can get away with longer, sure. But why wait until the braking is already being compromised? Why not keep the car running tip-top all the time?
This is correct. The RV6 and FLP braces only came about because of a need to replace the stock bar that is removed with EDFC installation. I can't say anything about the RV6, but the FLP brace is much more heavy duty than the stock bar. The stock bar is pretty decent, but stiffer bracing is going to be a little more effective when driving harder.
I put a mileage interval on the brake fluid because it seems like cars with heavier use could stand a flush more often. It is cheap and easy and never hurts to be more anal about it.
Rack up 15k in 3 months? WOW! So do you change your oil monthly? If you drive a lot you should expect to need to do more maintenance. Maybe 15k is too often for you, but I would at least do it every 30k. Once a year is a good time frame really. The hard sudden stops aren't the reason why...contamination enters the fluid over time, even when not in use. You can get away with longer, sure. But why wait until the braking is already being compromised? Why not keep the car running tip-top all the time?
This is correct. The RV6 and FLP braces only came about because of a need to replace the stock bar that is removed with EDFC installation. I can't say anything about the RV6, but the FLP brace is much more heavy duty than the stock bar. The stock bar is pretty decent, but stiffer bracing is going to be a little more effective when driving harder.
07-16-2010, 08:48 PM
#62
Drifting
Not all OEM fluids are bad...yes there may be some that are better, but usually the OEM is just fine. A good example is those with 6-spd that put GM fluid in. That is still OEM fluid...just not Honda OEM. So in my Cavalier I should not have used the proper GMSMFM fluid since it was the factory stuff?
07-16-2010, 09:40 PM
#63
Team Owner
Not all OEM fluids are bad...yes there may be some that are better, but usually the OEM is just fine. A good example is those with 6-spd that put GM fluid in. That is still OEM fluid...just not Honda OEM. So in my Cavalier I should not have used the proper GMSMFM fluid since it was the factory stuff?
I can think of several good quality OEM fluids. Syncromesh is fine. Some of GM's transfer case fluid is pretty good. Just the ordinary DexIII and DexVI, Type F and T-IV, Acura Honda coolant, Ford Motorcraft oil, are decent fluids. We got unlucky with this particular fluid in the TL.
I find it funny how people are so scared to run anything other than Z1 when it's the powersteering and to a lesser degree the coolant that must be OEM with the rare exception. I believe Amsoil makes a Honda compatable PS fluid. I used Amsoil and it was great, especially on cold winter days because it's thinner when cold and the same once hot. Honda uses a much thicker fluid with more zinc (I think it was zinc) than any other fluid. The coolant is a low phosphorus, non silicate formula.
07-17-2010, 07:38 AM
#64
Soon I will have
Thread Starter
^^^^ 30,000 city some highway miles? The car is three years old so why wouldn't he do it? What is the effects on the car by doing it at any milage? It seems that you think this does more harm than good...Care to explain? OP has told me that since he did the seafoam, he has seen a remarkable bump in his mpg. Not every 30,000 miles is created equal.....I do 30,000 in six months.....The op does it in three years....Seafoam seems to be the way to go in three years.
Great post - did you also replace the engine air filter? If so how do you get the cap off the air filter compartment? Can't for the life of me get the four screws off. Can't believe Honda/Acura designed it so poorly. From your pictures it looks like you have a modified system, but any help on a regular 2006 TL engine air filter replacement would be appreciated.
Thx - Dan
Thx - Dan
Replaced my AT fluid 2 days ago. Old fluid was totally black like used motor oil. Car was bought @ 73K 2 months ago.
Transmission used to jerk like a fishing pulling your bait - at 2K rpm: now it is gone.
Used a long 3/8 outside diameter 1/2" inside diameter vinyl tube connected to a funnel
(You can get the tube from Lowe store - plumbing section).
The AT bolt was just too tight for my hand and hammer to open
Transmission used to jerk like a fishing pulling your bait - at 2K rpm: now it is gone.
Used a long 3/8 outside diameter 1/2" inside diameter vinyl tube connected to a funnel
(You can get the tube from Lowe store - plumbing section).
The AT bolt was just too tight for my hand and hammer to open
Great write up and nice job.
Thanks for the kind words! I didn't think I would be able to get the bolts off either with my setup, but trust me...make a breaker bar and you are all set. Once I got the top of my floor jack on my rachet it was much simpler.
I'm confused, though - aren't all service intervals indicated by the MID based on driving style, etc.? In other words, there is no 30K service?
Thanks for the kind words! I didn't think I would be able to get the bolts off either with my setup, but trust me...make a breaker bar and you are all set. Once I got the top of my floor jack on my rachet it was much simpler.
I'm confused, though - aren't all service intervals indicated by the MID based on driving style, etc.? In other words, there is no 30K service?
Thanks poorman!!
Very cool job on the work and the post!
Couple things....
1)
Next time pop open the green vent cap when draining into this bucket to prevent the oil-lake formation. It should all drain down and not pool up.
2) Props on the ATF! Don't use anything but factory stuff. Honda transmissions are picky enough. As much as people will tell you how much better their new stuff is than the old stuff....DUH! You need to put new stuff, not different stuff. I dunno. Coming from and ex Honda tech and parts guy, get OEM fluid.
3) Where the hell have I been? 9 qts ATF? Cabin air filter access mod? WTF?
4) Where is the brake fluid change? You should do it every year or 15k, even though the factory doesn't mention it.
Marcus
Couple things....
1)
Next time pop open the green vent cap when draining into this bucket to prevent the oil-lake formation. It should all drain down and not pool up.
2) Props on the ATF! Don't use anything but factory stuff. Honda transmissions are picky enough. As much as people will tell you how much better their new stuff is than the old stuff....DUH! You need to put new stuff, not different stuff. I dunno. Coming from and ex Honda tech and parts guy, get OEM fluid.
3) Where the hell have I been? 9 qts ATF? Cabin air filter access mod? WTF?
4) Where is the brake fluid change? You should do it every year or 15k, even though the factory doesn't mention it.
Marcus
1. I usually do pop that green nipple, but must have overlooked it this time hence the hugh amount of bubbling I was getting.
2. I am with you bro, OEM Z1 will be just fine for me and used again in the future.
3. All the research I did said that 9 quarts of atf would replace roughly 96% of the old fluid.
Cabin Filter Mod: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/cabin-filter-replacement-mod-3g-garage-f-130-a-591437/
4. Brake fluid change needs to be done and I will complete it soon.
07-17-2010, 10:52 AM
#65
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Rack up 15k in 3 months? WOW! So do you change your oil monthly? If you drive a lot you should expect to need to do more maintenance. Maybe 15k is too often for you, but I would at least do it every 30k. Once a year is a good time frame really. The hard sudden stops aren't the reason why...contamination enters the fluid over time, even when not in use. You can get away with longer, sure. But why wait until the braking is already being compromised? Why not keep the car running tip-top all the time?
.
Don't want to thread jack but to answer your question, Yes! Every month (5000) miles. I have just hit 202,000 miles on the TL and its all original including the clutch (6-speed) and the oil is as clean after 5000 miles than most any other car. I'm all about taking care of the car just like you and if you search my name on threads I started, you will see just how anal I am and what maintenance I have done along the way. Getting my third timing belt put in in about four months.
The OP (Jesse) is a good friend of mine and we are on the same page with most everything, especially when it comes to our cars. Keep it up Jesse!
07-17-2010, 11:42 AM
#66
Team Owner
I think arguments could be made on both sides (as we have seen here in this thread) regarding OEM vs. after market ATF fluid. For me I see nothing wrong with putting OEM Acura fluid back into the car, most of the time when replacing stock fluids, parts, etc. you really can't go wrong with OEM. With that being said, of course there are always going to be aftermarket substitutions for OEM parts. I replaced my brakes not too long ago and I could have went with some OEM Brembo pads, but decided to go with the Rotora product. Just wanted a pad that would last a little longer and cut down on the brake dust, just my personal preference.
Why on earth do you think the engine needed cleaning? This just blows me away.
07-17-2010, 02:53 PM
#67
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He had asked me if he should Seafoam the engine. I said it shouldn't be an issue if he used half in the gas and the rest in the intake. Hearing your point as to why it wouldn't be a good idea makes sense. In my experiences with it, I thought it would only do good. I see your points but no harm, no foul......Nothing happened to the car so its all good.
07-17-2010, 03:02 PM
#68
Team Owner
He had asked me if he should Seafoam the engine. I said it shouldn't be an issue if he used half in the gas and the rest in the intake. Hearing your point as to why it wouldn't be a good idea makes sense. In my experiences with it, I thought it would only do good. I see your points but no harm, no foul......Nothing happened to the car so its all good.
Now if this were one of the new DI engines from GM, Audi, Porsche, or VW, I would recommend Seafoam through the intake every 10,000...seriously
07-19-2010, 04:02 PM
#69
Don't want to thread jack but to answer your question, Yes! Every month (5000) miles. I have just hit 202,000 miles on the TL and its all original including the clutch (6-speed) and the oil is as clean after 5000 miles than most any other car. I'm all about taking care of the car just like you and if you search my name on threads I started, you will see just how anal I am and what maintenance I have done along the way. Getting my third timing belt put in in about four months.
The OP (Jesse) is a good friend of mine and we are on the same page with most everything, especially when it comes to our cars. Keep it up Jesse!
The OP (Jesse) is a good friend of mine and we are on the same page with most everything, especially when it comes to our cars. Keep it up Jesse!
Your seat must be really comfy by now, perfectly conforming to your butt. Anyone who owns the car after you might find it uncomfortable
A quarterly brake fluid flush is probably excessive, but I would at minimum do it annually. For most people 15 k comes in around annually anyway so I guess a year is the best measure. I put the mileage recommendation on there more for people who exceed that many miles in a year but maybe use the brakes more often. I am assuming you get a lot of miles out of your pads as well.
07-19-2010, 10:48 PM
#70
Road Racer / Solo Addict
One of the best threads I have read lately, thanks to the OP and all others that have followed up giving their feedback!
07-20-2010, 08:37 PM
#72
Team Owner
08-01-2010, 10:03 AM
#73
Well, I just changed out my Oil and ATF yesterday, and I landed up using Amsoil in both. The oil was not a big deal, as I have done my own oil own changes on all of my vehicles since I was 16. Now with the ATF, that was a little different. Thanks to the OP, it went fairly smooth. With the exception of removing the fill bolt. Damn, that thing was truly a B**** to get off. I thought that I was going to break my ratchet, extension, or the socket taking this damn thing off. It felt like a Gorilla tightened on there. Anyway, I got it off, drained, and refilled without any busted knuckles, tools, or car parts. So all in all, this was was a good job for me. To the OP, thanks for all the pics, and descriptions. It really helped out a ton. I will finish up the last two drain and fills of ATF over the course of the next two weeks. Next weekend will be number two, and the following weekend will be number three.
08-03-2010, 02:12 AM
#74
Someone just told me about this 9x9 atf change you guys made up and I thought...it was absurd. Well, sound in principle, but totally unnecessary.
Why not just go back to 15K atf changes like they used to do in the early 90s before trannies started blowing up?
Why not just go back to 15K atf changes like they used to do in the early 90s before trannies started blowing up?
08-03-2010, 02:54 AM
#75
Mileage is almost irrelevent. Sure, the engine turns more total revolutions in 30,000 miles of city driving vs steady state freeway at 2,000rpm for hours on end. However, carbon tends to accumulate quicker at light loads and low rpms. Time is not an issue.
Seafoaming a 30,000 mile engine is no different than Seafoaming a brand new TL. There is practically no carbon buildup at that mileage. I've had the heads off of many engines and it's unbelievable someone would do a decarbonization below 100K. Saying you saw a mpg increase after this would be like taking your brand new TL home from the dealer and seafoaming it and claiming a mpg jump. If there is nothing wrong in the first place how do you expect to see a change?
It has the potential to do more harm than good. It's a solvent and it burns but it doesn't burn well. It can screw up 02 sensors and cats. You can injest too much and cause other more serious problems. It can wash down the cylinder walls. It can foul out plugs. It can dilute the oil. If there is any major carbon buildup, there's a host of other issues.
A decarbonization is supposed to get rid of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Getting rid of the carbon buildup eliminates hotspots and increased mechanical compression which will increase the liklihood of detonation. I didn't see him complaining of pinging or surging beforehand which are signs of detonation. And the real kicker is water does the exact same thing and it's free.
Using it in the crankcase... It's a solvent. It's not supposed to be in there. It drastically lowers film strength of the oil. It's considered a harsh cleaner.
In the fuel system, nothing wrong with that. It may or may not be needed but there are no negatives. Running it on a top tier premium fuel for it's whole life it should never need one but if I bought the car used I would probably use it for a couple tanks.
It's his car to do what he wants but for new members reading all of these Seafoam threads and wasting money on seafoaming practically new engines with the small but present danger of hurting something, something needs to be said.
Seafoaming a 30,000 mile engine is no different than Seafoaming a brand new TL. There is practically no carbon buildup at that mileage. I've had the heads off of many engines and it's unbelievable someone would do a decarbonization below 100K. Saying you saw a mpg increase after this would be like taking your brand new TL home from the dealer and seafoaming it and claiming a mpg jump. If there is nothing wrong in the first place how do you expect to see a change?
It has the potential to do more harm than good. It's a solvent and it burns but it doesn't burn well. It can screw up 02 sensors and cats. You can injest too much and cause other more serious problems. It can wash down the cylinder walls. It can foul out plugs. It can dilute the oil. If there is any major carbon buildup, there's a host of other issues.
A decarbonization is supposed to get rid of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Getting rid of the carbon buildup eliminates hotspots and increased mechanical compression which will increase the liklihood of detonation. I didn't see him complaining of pinging or surging beforehand which are signs of detonation. And the real kicker is water does the exact same thing and it's free.
Using it in the crankcase... It's a solvent. It's not supposed to be in there. It drastically lowers film strength of the oil. It's considered a harsh cleaner.
In the fuel system, nothing wrong with that. It may or may not be needed but there are no negatives. Running it on a top tier premium fuel for it's whole life it should never need one but if I bought the car used I would probably use it for a couple tanks.
It's his car to do what he wants but for new members reading all of these Seafoam threads and wasting money on seafoaming practically new engines with the small but present danger of hurting something, something needs to be said.
I just seafoamed my car for the first time at 94K miles just before I changed out the plugs and as a result engine ran better after the seafoam and even more so when I swapped out my plugs. instant gain in smoothness, responsiveness, and mpg.... I am unique in here as I use the ATF seafoam in the gas tank to clean out the injectors, do it about 1 time a year and never have issues with 02 sensors or cats or anything else on any car that I have done this with starting with my 89 sable......300,000 miles later still no issues. that ATF seafoam makes short work of dirty injectors.......
Last edited by YeuEmMaiMai; 08-03-2010 at 03:00 AM.
11-27-2010, 04:42 PM
#77
Team Owner
I just seafoamed my car for the first time at 94K miles just before I changed out the plugs and as a result engine ran better after the seafoam and even more so when I swapped out my plugs. instant gain in smoothness, responsiveness, and mpg.... I am unique in here as I use the ATF seafoam in the gas tank to clean out the injectors, do it about 1 time a year and never have issues with 02 sensors or cats or anything else on any car that I have done this with starting with my 89 sable......300,000 miles later still no issues. that ATF seafoam makes short work of dirty injectors.......
Whatever makes you sleep better at night. You'll feel whatever you want to feel but anyone who has torn an engine down at your mileage knows there's nothing there for seaform to "clean". You would also know that water does the same thing in the combustion chamber. The placebo effect is what contiues to sell seafoam. The best example is people seafoaming a 30,000 mile engine and "feeling" a difference. I don't care what others do with their TLs but I would hate for a newb to come on here and think seafoam will do all of these wonderful things when in reality it does nothing and can hurt the engine.
This entire thread is full of people that do not know how to search first. Anyone still using Z1 for their 3x3 and not replaceing pressure switches as PM have not done thier homework.
12-04-2010, 02:26 PM
#79
One or Two?
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Age: 46
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Thank you so much for this write up. My car has 34k miles on it and i've been planning on tackling what you just did in the next couple of weeks. This will help temendously!
What size extension did you use to loosen the transmission fluid drain bolt? Thanks!
What size extension did you use to loosen the transmission fluid drain bolt? Thanks!
