Master Pro Chassis Ball Joint
 

Hi everyone,

I recently had a new ball joint installed on my 04 TL (101k miles). I read about the dreaded MOOG K500117 addressed at length here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-t...beware-805131/

I did not read the thread, or know about the issue with that particular ball joint until AFTER it was installed.

My question for you guys: I talked with the shop and the balljoint they ordered and installed was not a MOOG, but a Master Pro, but it has the same part number as the MOOG (K500117). You can see the part on O'Reilly's here: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...500117/4500663
Is this the same balljoint that everyone was saying caused issues back in 2011 or has it been updated? It still does NOT come with the standard castle nut and cotter pin. However, it does appear to come with a locking nut that the shop said had some sort of glue or something that when tightened helps keep it in place.

What are your thoughts? Am I doomed? I realize I should go with OEM next time, but I was unaware they were even replacing the balljoint to begin with, thought they were just doing a new control arm/bushings.

Thanks!

I'm probably just paranoid but I wouldn't install any ball joint that didn't have a castle nut and a cotter pin. It seems like the couple failures described in that thread were directly related to the joint falling out of the LCA

First you said you read the thread, then you said you didn't read it..... and you had that disastrous ball joint installed.

Yeah... That was also my concern. Now I am paranoid.

Huh? I read the thread after the balljoint was installed on Saturday. Read the thread Saturday evening. Probably wouldn't have even known about the issue had it not been on the main page of the tires, wheels and suspension forum.

From what I remember from that thread it wasn't the ball joint coming out because there wasn't a castle nut, it was because the flange on the nut was too small and was sitting on the ball joint sleeve in the lower control arm, which is a press fit and since the nut never actually touched the control arm it would just pull the ball joint with the sleeve and nut still attached out of the control arm.

The newer version of at least the Moog ball joint has a nut with a larger flange on it which grabs the control arm rather than the sleeve (however this wouldn't be an issue if that sleeve wasn't pressed in and was part of the control arm like a lot of after market ones are).

If the masterpro one has the same style of nut as the Moog I think you will be fine, I would be more worried about the longevity of the ball joint its self, when I worked at oreilly's in my college days we would warranty those parts constantly. I know a lot of people don't like using non castle nuts on parts like these, but those prevailing torque style nuts with some thread locker don't really come loose unless you force it. However that being said, I would still opt for an OEM ball joint when you can.

Thread locker seems like an OK idea until you go go disassemble the joint and the taper breaks before the nut threads out.

Then there you'll be....looking towards the sky, asking why the universe has forsaken you.

Anyway, as a previous poster mentioned...the failing ball joints were failing because they fastened to the sleeve instead of the LCA. This type of bad aftermarket design happens more often than you think. Aftermarket parts cost less than OEM for a reason. Mainly that R&D/testing costs money.

Regardless of the retention, the only sure bet is a factory part. The aftermarket one may last 1 mile or 50,000 miles. No way to tell. It varies part by part. Two of the same part won't even have the same span of life.

What's the difference in price between aftermarket and OEM? Maybe $40? I'd go back to the shop and tell them you want them to install OEM, especially since they didn't ask before doing so.

Hey man, I really appreciate the detailed reply! You are right, it did talk about the nut actually not being big enough to cover the entire surface. When/if these need serviced again I will be taking it to my Acura/Honda dealership for OEM! Sadly, I was way too reactionary and thought I needed to get this fixed ASAP and could not get in at the dealership for over a week due to my work schedule and daycare drop off/pick up times with my kid. In hindsight I wish I would have just chilled a few days and made a more clear choice.

Thanks again!!

Hey BROlando (awesome name haha) I appreciate that. I had done motor mounts, timing belt, water pump, other routine maintenance all through the dealership previously since I have owned the car (since 2013) but sadly was very reactionary this time and made a poor choice. Lesson learned. Thanks again!