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Ok let me start by saying: I know everyone loves the TL HID's and dont do it and so on... Well I hate my HID's they only work when they feel like it. I have replaced bulbs, ballasts, igniters, aftermarket and stock kits over and over and im sick of it. I dont even use the HID's now, I drive with the fog lights at night lol.
I think the car might have aftermarket headlight enclosures causing all these issues but I cant tell. Driving down the highway having your headlights shut off isnt fun. I have tried everything under the sun to make them reliable. The problem seems to be where the igniter sits on the bulb, that is ALWAYS burnt. That is the reason I think they might be aftermarket enclosures, the gap between the bulb and igniter connector isn't sloe enough. It happens on both sides.
Sooooo I want to try and find an LED kit that would be much more reliable. I cant seem to find a kit for the D2S bulb style. I did find one set but they want $175 crazy lol...
First link i've found. LINK
I don't want to start discussion about buying from China here. My personal opinion is nowadays most staff is chinees shit, just rebranded for local markets 🤨
Just one more thing - here in EU if accident would happen and it would appear that your custom made headlights were the cause, you will have to pay the compensation (car repair, personal harm). Of course it would end up in the court but you would loose the case when you would face the average mechanics aware lawyer or victim.
Last edited by mariusz439; 06-16-2018 at 03:26 AM.
First link i've found. LINK
I don't want to start discussion about buying from China here. My personal opinion is nowadays most staff is chinees shit, just rebranded for local markets 🤨
Just one more thing - here in EU if accident would happen and it would appear that your custom made headlights were the cause, you will have to pay the compensation (car repair, personal harm). Of course it would end up in the court but you would loose the case when you would face the average mechanics aware lawyer or victim.
Non DOT approved headlights (or modified headlight assemblies) here in the U.S. can also end up in court if there is an accident; and any half way decent lawyer will win a case against someone with such a mod.
Aything is safer then how my headlights dont work now and shut off going down the highway. I know its the connection between the igniter and bulb... it always makes a bzzzz sound, I have to turn the know 1 to 50 times to get one to come on, which ever side feels like it wants to mess up. Thats what makes me think these are aftermarket headlight housings and the socket isn't made to spec.
Aything is safer then how my headlights dont work now and shut off going down the highway. I know its the connection between the igniter and bulb... it always makes a bzzzz sound, I have to turn the know 1 to 50 times to get one to come on, which ever side feels like it wants to mess up. Thats what makes me think these are aftermarket headlight housings and the socket isn't made to spec.
Here's the thing, you are guessing as to the source of your issue, and as such, you're proposing throwing parts at an undiagnosed issue in the hopes of solving it. As a general rule, unless you get lucky, this is almost always the least efficient and most expensive way of solving a problem. My recommendation would be to get the issue professionally diagnosed, then make your decision on what to do after that.
I actually went to school for auto mechanics, so It isnt like I am new to automotive issues. The common issue Ive have noticed out of all replaced parts was a burnt igniter connection. That tells me something is not right at this connection. Either the igniter isn't pressing far enough onto the bulb or a out of spec socket on a aftermarket headlight enclosure. I actually took a cone like piece of metal and put it over the end of the bulb connector to make a tighter connection. This worked for about 6 months and started happening again. ALOT of voltage goes through this connection and it eventually burns that connector out.
If I could get an HID kit that has wires directly connected to the bulb and eliminates the igniter at that connection I bet the problem would be resolved.
A proper LEGIT D2S igniter (OEM or proper aftermarket) should never have issues with burnt ends.. SOunds like you're buying counterfeit parts.
Putting LED in a D2S projector is stupid, I didn't even need to go to automotive school to know this
If your headlamp assemblies don't have HONDA stamped on the front corner, it's not OEM. Sounds like your issue is with poor aftermarket products, yet you still want to get some craptastic LED kits to put in there
Check out www.theretrofitsource.com for some good quality aftermarket HID kits. If your headlamps are bad, I'd say buy new ones.
I actually went to school for auto mechanics, so It isnt like I am new to automotive issues. The common issue Ive have noticed out of all replaced parts was a burnt igniter connection. That tells me something is not right at this connection. Either the igniter isn't pressing far enough onto the bulb or a out of spec socket on a aftermarket headlight enclosure. I actually took a cone like piece of metal and put it over the end of the bulb connector to make a tighter connection. This worked for about 6 months and started happening again. ALOT of voltage goes through this connection and it eventually burns that connector out.
If I could get an HID kit that has wires directly connected to the bulb and eliminates the igniter at that connection I bet the problem would be resolved.
dafuq... you have no clue what you're talking about despite trying to throw in your schooling as some sort of supporting/justifying credentials. Sounds like you have no idea how High Intensity Discharge lamps...
dafuq? Some sweet mod language you have going on there.
Tell me what I posted that was not correct? You sound like a fool. Your whole post is of accusations and assumptions. For example, the car had all OEM HID components to start. The Headlight enclosures are the only thing in question.
Non DOT approved headlights (or modified headlight assemblies) here in the U.S. can also end up in court if there is an accident; and any half way decent lawyer will win a case against someone with such a mod.
Do they approve replacement kits or headlights with those kits in?
Welcome to AZ, I'm not here to hold your hand, I'm here to help you fix problems sorry if you feel like my language is too rough for you
And I quoted and bolded what you said was "incorrect" . Here it is again:
If I could get an HID kit that has wires directly connected to the bulb and eliminates the igniter at that connection I bet the problem would be resolved.
Welcome to AZ, I'm not here to hold your hand, I'm here to help you fix problems sorry if you feel like my language is too rough for you
And I quoted and bolded what you said was "incorrect" . Here it is again:
What is wrong with what I said? Elimitate the igniter at that connection? You know the igniter could be somewhere else correct? Like in the bulb itself, or in the ballast.... Again tell me what I said that was incorrect.
What is wrong with what I said? Elimitate the igniter at that connection? You know the igniter could be somewhere else correct? Like in the bulb itself, or in the ballast.... Again tell me what I said that was incorrect.
I've never heard of a bulb with a built in igniter..
I fail to see why finding completely different applications that won't work for you sounds like a win in your book.. Do you plan on adapting a D5S or D1S bulb into your car?
I fail to see why finding completely different applications that won't work for you sounds like a win in your book.. Do you plan on adapting a D5S or D1S bulb into your car?
How many times do I have to prove you wrong before you drop your ego?
I am not trying to be a jerk but all HID will require "igniter" to work, its either built with the base of the bulbs (D1 and D3 R/S) beside the voltage operating difference and being "eco friendly they are the same concept but "not interchangeable" without replace the ballast and igniter. This story goes the same for D2S and D4S HID.
I am not trying to be a jerk but all HID will require "igniter" to work, its either built with the base of the bulbs (D1 and D3 R/S) beside the voltage operating difference and being "eco friendly they are the same concept but "not interchangeable" without replace the ballast and igniter. This story goes the same for D2S and D4S HID.
Before you making a fool out of yourself, that like saying if you can make a gasoline engine work without spark plugs.
Never said there wasn't an igniter if you read the post. They can be located in other hardware, Ballast, Bulb, Igniter cable... I simply said remove the igniter connection at the headlight housing because they may be aftermarket..
Is reading comprehension not understood on these forums? lol
You should learn to read whole threads before you make stupid statements.
Last edited by NitroViper; 06-18-2018 at 03:19 PM.
I actually went to school for auto mechanics, so It isnt like I am new to automotive issues.
If I could get an HID kit that has wires directly connected to the bulb and eliminates the igniter at that connection I bet the problem would be resolved.
Originally Posted by NitroViper
Never said there wasn't an igniter if you read the post. They can be located in other hardware, Ballast, Bulb, Igniter cable... I simply said remove the igniter connection at the headlight housing because they may be aftermarket..
Is reading comprehension not understood on these forums? lol
You should learn to read whole threads before you make stupid statements.
I said before all HID D1,D2,D3D4 and D5 can't run mix match component. I don't know if I have problem with comprehend what being said or the person making a stupid statement in BOLD above.
Do us a favor please sticking to your FB group lmao.
I said before all HID D1,D2,D3D4 and D5 can't run mix match component. I don't know if I have problem with comprehend what being said or the person making a stupid statement in BOLD above.
Do us a favor please sticking to your FB group lmao.
at that connection....
That doesn't mean eliminate it all together because you cant... lmao.
How many times do I have to prove you wrong before you drop your ego?
Reading comprehension is hard buddy? Neither of those bulbs are D2S applications...
Originally Posted by thoiboi
Now find me D2S versions of those...
I'll wait
I fail to see why finding completely different applications that won't work for you sounds like a win in your book.. Do you plan on adapting a D5S or D1S bulb into your car?
Care to try again or is your ego too big you can't admit when you're wrong?
Reading comprehension is hard buddy? Neither of those bulbs are D2S applications...
Care to try again or is your ego too big you can't admit when you're wrong?
LMAO you're an idiot... Those are D2H bulbs a variant of the D2S bulb used for applications when there isnt room for an igniter at the headlamp enclosure. The igniter is in the ballast.
I had no choice but to reply to you stupidity... Have fun giving acurazine members false info.
Stay away from 9000W kits. I would say anybody that promises more than 35W per bulb is probably overrating them.
Ebay is most likely full of crap, Amazon might be better, Retrofit source or morimito are probably best quality, but also quite pricey.
6000k is probably good enough, don't go higher as they will be blue (which is common for cheap leds)
Couple things to consider:
1. What if current issue with headlights turning off is because of the switch, or some wiring before the balast. It's important as most likely LED bulbs will be connected to the same wires, thus having the same problem.
2. LEDs don't like heat. They hate it. No idea how well (how reliable) they can be, if mounted inside the closed headlight. They are also longer, so they might not fit under the covers.
3. You will most likely need to tap into power wires going into the balast, as I highly doubt that leds will come with exact same connector.
Either way, the TL system looks more or less like this:
With the only thing not shown is the relay, as far as I can tell.
If you've replaced the bulbs and ballasts, It's either the igniter or wiring harness. Doubt its the relay, as both lights wouldn't work then. If you're hearing buzzing, I would assume the ballast is working. Which further leads me to wonder if it is just the igniter. I'm having a hard time remembering, but I thought the igniter was within the ballast on the TL, is it not? Memory is not serving me well here.
06-15-2018, 09:32 PM
sorry if you feel like my language is too rough for you 
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