Looking to get an 2006 Acura TL, manual, anything I should know?
10-22-2013, 10:06 PM
#1
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Looking to get an 2006 Acura TL, manual, anything I should know?
Looking to spend 10k and find a 06 tl or something around that year.
Anything outstanding within that year I should keep an eye out for before buying?
Anything outstanding within that year I should keep an eye out for before buying?
10-22-2013, 10:14 PM
#2
Racer
No, if you're going manual there isn't anything to look out for. I think there may have been a recall for a power steering hose, you should look it up. I've got an '04 manual and love it.
10-22-2013, 10:14 PM
#3
Suzuka Master
salvage
10-22-2013, 10:31 PM
#4
the overexplainer
other than the unknown remaining clutch life, nothing to look out for in particular for the MT.
edit: see how smoothly it gets into 3rd. When i test drove my TL i didnt feel anything wrong, but apparently that's a potential problem if it grinds or pops out of gear.
edit: see how smoothly it gets into 3rd. When i test drove my TL i didnt feel anything wrong, but apparently that's a potential problem if it grinds or pops out of gear.
10-23-2013, 07:48 AM
#5
Safety Car
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^^^ I was gonna say....what are you guys talking about nothing to look out for with the MT's??? 3rd gear is a huge issue that almost every car suffers from at one point or another. Like ez12a said, see how your 3rd gear is. You may or may not get a slight grind going into that gear. If you do, the simple cure is to swap out the fluid with the GM Synchromesh fluid.
So other than being one of the most tricky manuals I have ever driven, they are pretty darn good :-)
So other than being one of the most tricky manuals I have ever driven, they are pretty darn good :-)
10-23-2013, 08:04 AM
#7
Safety Car
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Yeah I guess I didnt say that right. Its not a HUGE issue, but my point is be aware of it. Nothing would suck more than to buy a used car then 3 days after buying it find out your getting grinds going into 3rd gear without knowing its a common thing and easily fixable problem.
Even if you dont get the grind into 3rd switching to the GM fluid makes shifting smoother as well.
If you get the grind dont pass on the car if you like it. Its an easily fixable issue.
James
Even if you dont get the grind into 3rd switching to the GM fluid makes shifting smoother as well.
If you get the grind dont pass on the car if you like it. Its an easily fixable issue.
James
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10-23-2013, 08:33 AM
#9
Drifting
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I've never had any issue with my 3rd gear. I swapped in the GM Syncromesh MF but never noticed any difference - probably because I didn't notice anything wrong to begin with.
The only thing you'll want to be aware of is that once you get a 3rd Gen TL with a 6-speed you'll pretty much have the best car Acura has produced in the last 10 years with exception to the 07-08 TL-S.
Yeah, I went there. I sure wish Acura would do something about it. The conservative stuff they're pushing now-a-days is less than inspiring.
The only thing you'll want to be aware of is that once you get a 3rd Gen TL with a 6-speed you'll pretty much have the best car Acura has produced in the last 10 years with exception to the 07-08 TL-S.
Yeah, I went there. I sure wish Acura would do something about it. The conservative stuff they're pushing now-a-days is less than inspiring.
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10-23-2013, 10:12 AM
#10
the overexplainer
Same. I switched to GM just as a preventative measure but actually never experienced the problem.
It is something to look for though, i have a friend that recently purchased a TL 6MT and he said switching fluids didnt work.
It is something to look for though, i have a friend that recently purchased a TL 6MT and he said switching fluids didnt work.
10-23-2013, 10:26 AM
#11
Safety Car
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I even put the GM fluid in my "new" TLS at 5,300 miles and it smoothed things up a bit. I never experienced 3rd gear issues, but it did reduce notchiness slightly. On two other manual type S's had both had occasional 3rd grind and the fluid fixed that 100%
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10-23-2013, 12:19 PM
#14
Nothing wrong with my 6mt, no 3rd gear grind or pop-out. I even switched to the GM fluid and didn't notice a change in anything. I am on the original clutch at 154k miles too.
It's funny, when I test drove the car before I bought it I thought it was easy as hell to drive. But some days it's really easy and some days it's tricky to get smooth shifts.
If you get one, get the short shifter with a weighted knob. Makes shifting from 1st to 2nd a lot better.
Anyway, 6MTFTMFW!
It's funny, when I test drove the car before I bought it I thought it was easy as hell to drive. But some days it's really easy and some days it's tricky to get smooth shifts.
If you get one, get the short shifter with a weighted knob. Makes shifting from 1st to 2nd a lot better.
Anyway, 6MTFTMFW!
10-23-2013, 12:21 PM
#15
Drifting
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^ This.
10-23-2013, 12:38 PM
#16
Advanced
I just bought a 2006 MT for $9k with 106k. I'd keep in mind the cost of some preventative maintenance (timing belt/water pump) if it hasn't been done yet. Also, weather permitting, test drive the car at night after it's been sitting a while and the temperature has dropped. The temperature here has been in the 40s at night and all the sudden my power steering is whining (o-ring, probably - recall is done).
Also move the side mirrors all around and check for slow or stuck spots.
See if all the "bits and pieces" are there. Sunglass holders in the doors, coin holder in the console, anything removable.
Check to see that the fob works correctly with the memory seats as well. I met one guy selling his TL with a fob that lacked the memory capability.
Also move the side mirrors all around and check for slow or stuck spots.
See if all the "bits and pieces" are there. Sunglass holders in the doors, coin holder in the console, anything removable.
Check to see that the fob works correctly with the memory seats as well. I met one guy selling his TL with a fob that lacked the memory capability.
10-24-2013, 02:28 PM
#17
I sometimes regret buying my TL
I have poured INSANE amounts of money into my TL for repairs and maintenance (some of it my fault and some not). While this car is a fun car, I often wonder if I should've gotten something else.
And guess what...why am I here today? well, my transmission is giving me trouble now. It won't shift into 1st or 2nd. I don't think I'm gonna pay Acura $6000 for that, so I may have to send it to Aamco. 10-18 hours of labor is what they've quoted for a transmission rebuild.
Am I trying to convince you not to buy one? No. Am I here looking for people to make judgmental comments about me? No. I'm only offering you my unique experience so that you can add it to your equation.
I bought my 06MT at 77k miles for $15,500 in 2009, and now it's at 122k. The previous owner did not drive it hard, and most of the miles were highway miles (it was 3 years old when I bought it).
In the 4 years I've owned it, here's what I've had done.
-Tires last about 20k miles (Potenza G019 GRID), so I've gone through multiple sets plus 2 flats.
-Both CV joints replaced (both front axles - one snapped on me while I was making a slow left turn.
-3rd gear issue "fixed" by going with the GM fluid
-battery replaced (yes, I know this is normal as is most maintenance)
-rotors and pads replaced many times (I do this myself so it's cheap but if you don't do it, call for a Brembo pad price to see if you want to pay it - it's high!)
-clutch replaced (this isn't cheap because the flywheel has to be replaced as well because it can't be machined - ~$2040 job)
-power steering pump rebuilt
-approx $1100 for the timing belt service
-This car needs a periodic valve adjustment (something virtually no other car needs, so price one to see if you want to pay or do it yourself)
-$2800 for headwork. Here's the part that's my fault...sort of. If you overrev the engine (by accidentally downshifting into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd) be prepared to have at least one head off to replace ALL the exhaust valves because the pistons will hit them and bend them. That cost me about $2800 for just one head. Yes, I know it's my fault but it's a common thing. Just search for engine misfire and you'll find plenty of people trying to figure out what the misfire codes are trying to tell them. More often than not, their valves are bent. I had the exhaust valve springs replaced with stronger springs so that they will not float anymore. So far so good.
I also think the car is a little weak on torque, especially when the A/C is on. This car has about the same HP rating and 0-60 time as an LT1 Z28 Camaro but somehow I think that a Camaro will feel a lot more powerful. I came from a Turbo Volvo S80, and oh how I missed that low RPM torque.
My gas mileage is 17.37mpg over 21254 miles, so fuel efficiency shouldn't be a reason to get a small engine (though I was averaging 23mpg in the S80 - maybe the TL is too much fun to drive). I test drove an LS430 and it was averaging 18mpg with that huge V8.
Oh, I just thought of a couple more things. The driver's side air vent broke but I was able to super glue it back together. The right rear right power window sometimes won't close using the driver's switch. I have to close it using the switch in the back (haven't had time to diagnose it yet).
Anyway, whatever you choose. Good luck!
And guess what...why am I here today? well, my transmission is giving me trouble now. It won't shift into 1st or 2nd. I don't think I'm gonna pay Acura $6000 for that, so I may have to send it to Aamco. 10-18 hours of labor is what they've quoted for a transmission rebuild.
Am I trying to convince you not to buy one? No. Am I here looking for people to make judgmental comments about me? No. I'm only offering you my unique experience so that you can add it to your equation.
I bought my 06MT at 77k miles for $15,500 in 2009, and now it's at 122k. The previous owner did not drive it hard, and most of the miles were highway miles (it was 3 years old when I bought it).
In the 4 years I've owned it, here's what I've had done.
-Tires last about 20k miles (Potenza G019 GRID), so I've gone through multiple sets plus 2 flats.
-Both CV joints replaced (both front axles - one snapped on me while I was making a slow left turn.
-3rd gear issue "fixed" by going with the GM fluid
-battery replaced (yes, I know this is normal as is most maintenance)
-rotors and pads replaced many times (I do this myself so it's cheap but if you don't do it, call for a Brembo pad price to see if you want to pay it - it's high!)
-clutch replaced (this isn't cheap because the flywheel has to be replaced as well because it can't be machined - ~$2040 job)
-power steering pump rebuilt
-approx $1100 for the timing belt service
-This car needs a periodic valve adjustment (something virtually no other car needs, so price one to see if you want to pay or do it yourself)
-$2800 for headwork. Here's the part that's my fault...sort of. If you overrev the engine (by accidentally downshifting into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd) be prepared to have at least one head off to replace ALL the exhaust valves because the pistons will hit them and bend them. That cost me about $2800 for just one head. Yes, I know it's my fault but it's a common thing. Just search for engine misfire and you'll find plenty of people trying to figure out what the misfire codes are trying to tell them. More often than not, their valves are bent. I had the exhaust valve springs replaced with stronger springs so that they will not float anymore. So far so good.
I also think the car is a little weak on torque, especially when the A/C is on. This car has about the same HP rating and 0-60 time as an LT1 Z28 Camaro but somehow I think that a Camaro will feel a lot more powerful. I came from a Turbo Volvo S80, and oh how I missed that low RPM torque.
My gas mileage is 17.37mpg over 21254 miles, so fuel efficiency shouldn't be a reason to get a small engine (though I was averaging 23mpg in the S80 - maybe the TL is too much fun to drive). I test drove an LS430 and it was averaging 18mpg with that huge V8.
Oh, I just thought of a couple more things. The driver's side air vent broke but I was able to super glue it back together. The right rear right power window sometimes won't close using the driver's switch. I have to close it using the switch in the back (haven't had time to diagnose it yet).
Anyway, whatever you choose. Good luck!
Last edited by robocam; 10-24-2013 at 02:35 PM.
10-30-2013, 08:17 PM
#18
Just in case you didn't see my post about my transmission, here's what they quoted me today.
$4600 minimum to fix the transmission
$995 to fix a leaking oil pump
$850 for a couple engine mounts
$790 for front lower control arm bushings
Some of that you can do yourself but I'm just telling you what they told me.
So yeah...I'm really, really wondering what it would've been like if I had gotten a different car (trying to cope now). But I know I'll feel much better tomorrow and after it's fixed. I do like the car a lot.
$4600 minimum to fix the transmission
$995 to fix a leaking oil pump
$850 for a couple engine mounts
$790 for front lower control arm bushings
Some of that you can do yourself but I'm just telling you what they told me.
So yeah...I'm really, really wondering what it would've been like if I had gotten a different car (trying to cope now). But I know I'll feel much better tomorrow and after it's fixed. I do like the car a lot.
I have poured INSANE amounts of money into my TL for repairs and maintenance (some of it my fault and some not). While this car is a fun car, I often wonder if I should've gotten something else.
And guess what...why am I here today? well, my transmission is giving me trouble now. It won't shift into 1st or 2nd. I don't think I'm gonna pay Acura $6000 for that, so I may have to send it to Aamco. 10-18 hours of labor is what they've quoted for a transmission rebuild.
Am I trying to convince you not to buy one? No. Am I here looking for people to make judgmental comments about me? No. I'm only offering you my unique experience so that you can add it to your equation.
I bought my 06MT at 77k miles for $15,500 in 2009, and now it's at 122k. The previous owner did not drive it hard, and most of the miles were highway miles (it was 3 years old when I bought it).
In the 4 years I've owned it, here's what I've had done.
-Tires last about 20k miles (Potenza G019 GRID), so I've gone through multiple sets plus 2 flats.
-Both CV joints replaced (both front axles - one snapped on me while I was making a slow left turn.
-3rd gear issue "fixed" by going with the GM fluid
-battery replaced (yes, I know this is normal as is most maintenance)
-rotors and pads replaced many times (I do this myself so it's cheap but if you don't do it, call for a Brembo pad price to see if you want to pay it - it's high!)
-clutch replaced (this isn't cheap because the flywheel has to be replaced as well because it can't be machined - ~$2040 job)
-power steering pump rebuilt
-approx $1100 for the timing belt service
-This car needs a periodic valve adjustment (something virtually no other car needs, so price one to see if you want to pay or do it yourself)
-$2800 for headwork. Here's the part that's my fault...sort of. If you overrev the engine (by accidentally downshifting into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd) be prepared to have at least one head off to replace ALL the exhaust valves because the pistons will hit them and bend them. That cost me about $2800 for just one head. Yes, I know it's my fault but it's a common thing. Just search for engine misfire and you'll find plenty of people trying to figure out what the misfire codes are trying to tell them. More often than not, their valves are bent. I had the exhaust valve springs replaced with stronger springs so that they will not float anymore. So far so good.
I also think the car is a little weak on torque, especially when the A/C is on. This car has about the same HP rating and 0-60 time as an LT1 Z28 Camaro but somehow I think that a Camaro will feel a lot more powerful. I came from a Turbo Volvo S80, and oh how I missed that low RPM torque.
My gas mileage is 17.37mpg over 21254 miles, so fuel efficiency shouldn't be a reason to get a small engine (though I was averaging 23mpg in the S80 - maybe the TL is too much fun to drive). I test drove an LS430 and it was averaging 18mpg with that huge V8.
Oh, I just thought of a couple more things. The driver's side air vent broke but I was able to super glue it back together. The right rear right power window sometimes won't close using the driver's switch. I have to close it using the switch in the back (haven't had time to diagnose it yet).
Anyway, whatever you choose. Good luck!
And guess what...why am I here today? well, my transmission is giving me trouble now. It won't shift into 1st or 2nd. I don't think I'm gonna pay Acura $6000 for that, so I may have to send it to Aamco. 10-18 hours of labor is what they've quoted for a transmission rebuild.
Am I trying to convince you not to buy one? No. Am I here looking for people to make judgmental comments about me? No. I'm only offering you my unique experience so that you can add it to your equation.
I bought my 06MT at 77k miles for $15,500 in 2009, and now it's at 122k. The previous owner did not drive it hard, and most of the miles were highway miles (it was 3 years old when I bought it).
In the 4 years I've owned it, here's what I've had done.
-Tires last about 20k miles (Potenza G019 GRID), so I've gone through multiple sets plus 2 flats.
-Both CV joints replaced (both front axles - one snapped on me while I was making a slow left turn.
-3rd gear issue "fixed" by going with the GM fluid
-battery replaced (yes, I know this is normal as is most maintenance)
-rotors and pads replaced many times (I do this myself so it's cheap but if you don't do it, call for a Brembo pad price to see if you want to pay it - it's high!)
-clutch replaced (this isn't cheap because the flywheel has to be replaced as well because it can't be machined - ~$2040 job)
-power steering pump rebuilt
-approx $1100 for the timing belt service
-This car needs a periodic valve adjustment (something virtually no other car needs, so price one to see if you want to pay or do it yourself)
-$2800 for headwork. Here's the part that's my fault...sort of. If you overrev the engine (by accidentally downshifting into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd) be prepared to have at least one head off to replace ALL the exhaust valves because the pistons will hit them and bend them. That cost me about $2800 for just one head. Yes, I know it's my fault but it's a common thing. Just search for engine misfire and you'll find plenty of people trying to figure out what the misfire codes are trying to tell them. More often than not, their valves are bent. I had the exhaust valve springs replaced with stronger springs so that they will not float anymore. So far so good.
I also think the car is a little weak on torque, especially when the A/C is on. This car has about the same HP rating and 0-60 time as an LT1 Z28 Camaro but somehow I think that a Camaro will feel a lot more powerful. I came from a Turbo Volvo S80, and oh how I missed that low RPM torque.
My gas mileage is 17.37mpg over 21254 miles, so fuel efficiency shouldn't be a reason to get a small engine (though I was averaging 23mpg in the S80 - maybe the TL is too much fun to drive). I test drove an LS430 and it was averaging 18mpg with that huge V8.
Oh, I just thought of a couple more things. The driver's side air vent broke but I was able to super glue it back together. The right rear right power window sometimes won't close using the driver's switch. I have to close it using the switch in the back (haven't had time to diagnose it yet).
Anyway, whatever you choose. Good luck!
10-30-2013, 08:59 PM
#19
I have poured INSANE amounts of money into my TL for repairs and maintenance (some of it my fault and some not). While this car is a fun car, I often wonder if I should've gotten something else.
And guess what...why am I here today? well, my transmission is giving me trouble now. It won't shift into 1st or 2nd. I don't think I'm gonna pay Acura $6000 for that, so I may have to send it to Aamco. 10-18 hours of labor is what they've quoted for a transmission rebuild.
Am I trying to convince you not to buy one? No. Am I here looking for people to make judgmental comments about me? No. I'm only offering you my unique experience so that you can add it to your equation.
I bought my 06MT at 77k miles for $15,500 in 2009, and now it's at 122k. The previous owner did not drive it hard, and most of the miles were highway miles (it was 3 years old when I bought it).
In the 4 years I've owned it, here's what I've had done.
-Tires last about 20k miles (Potenza G019 GRID), so I've gone through multiple sets plus 2 flats.
-Both CV joints replaced (both front axles - one snapped on me while I was making a slow left turn.
-3rd gear issue "fixed" by going with the GM fluid
-battery replaced (yes, I know this is normal as is most maintenance)
-rotors and pads replaced many times (I do this myself so it's cheap but if you don't do it, call for a Brembo pad price to see if you want to pay it - it's high!)
-clutch replaced (this isn't cheap because the flywheel has to be replaced as well because it can't be machined - ~$2040 job)
-power steering pump rebuilt
-approx $1100 for the timing belt service
-This car needs a periodic valve adjustment (something virtually no other car needs, so price one to see if you want to pay or do it yourself)
-$2800 for headwork. Here's the part that's my fault...sort of. If you overrev the engine (by accidentally downshifting into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd) be prepared to have at least one head off to replace ALL the exhaust valves because the pistons will hit them and bend them. That cost me about $2800 for just one head. Yes, I know it's my fault but it's a common thing. Just search for engine misfire and you'll find plenty of people trying to figure out what the misfire codes are trying to tell them. More often than not, their valves are bent. I had the exhaust valve springs replaced with stronger springs so that they will not float anymore. So far so good.
I also think the car is a little weak on torque, especially when the A/C is on. This car has about the same HP rating and 0-60 time as an LT1 Z28 Camaro but somehow I think that a Camaro will feel a lot more powerful. I came from a Turbo Volvo S80, and oh how I missed that low RPM torque.
My gas mileage is 17.37mpg over 21254 miles, so fuel efficiency shouldn't be a reason to get a small engine (though I was averaging 23mpg in the S80 - maybe the TL is too much fun to drive). I test drove an LS430 and it was averaging 18mpg with that huge V8.
Oh, I just thought of a couple more things. The driver's side air vent broke but I was able to super glue it back together. The right rear right power window sometimes won't close using the driver's switch. I have to close it using the switch in the back (haven't had time to diagnose it yet).
Anyway, whatever you choose. Good luck!
And guess what...why am I here today? well, my transmission is giving me trouble now. It won't shift into 1st or 2nd. I don't think I'm gonna pay Acura $6000 for that, so I may have to send it to Aamco. 10-18 hours of labor is what they've quoted for a transmission rebuild.
Am I trying to convince you not to buy one? No. Am I here looking for people to make judgmental comments about me? No. I'm only offering you my unique experience so that you can add it to your equation.
I bought my 06MT at 77k miles for $15,500 in 2009, and now it's at 122k. The previous owner did not drive it hard, and most of the miles were highway miles (it was 3 years old when I bought it).
In the 4 years I've owned it, here's what I've had done.
-Tires last about 20k miles (Potenza G019 GRID), so I've gone through multiple sets plus 2 flats.
-Both CV joints replaced (both front axles - one snapped on me while I was making a slow left turn.
-3rd gear issue "fixed" by going with the GM fluid
-battery replaced (yes, I know this is normal as is most maintenance)
-rotors and pads replaced many times (I do this myself so it's cheap but if you don't do it, call for a Brembo pad price to see if you want to pay it - it's high!)
-clutch replaced (this isn't cheap because the flywheel has to be replaced as well because it can't be machined - ~$2040 job)
-power steering pump rebuilt
-approx $1100 for the timing belt service
-This car needs a periodic valve adjustment (something virtually no other car needs, so price one to see if you want to pay or do it yourself)
-$2800 for headwork. Here's the part that's my fault...sort of. If you overrev the engine (by accidentally downshifting into 1st instead of upshifting into 3rd) be prepared to have at least one head off to replace ALL the exhaust valves because the pistons will hit them and bend them. That cost me about $2800 for just one head. Yes, I know it's my fault but it's a common thing. Just search for engine misfire and you'll find plenty of people trying to figure out what the misfire codes are trying to tell them. More often than not, their valves are bent. I had the exhaust valve springs replaced with stronger springs so that they will not float anymore. So far so good.
I also think the car is a little weak on torque, especially when the A/C is on. This car has about the same HP rating and 0-60 time as an LT1 Z28 Camaro but somehow I think that a Camaro will feel a lot more powerful. I came from a Turbo Volvo S80, and oh how I missed that low RPM torque.
My gas mileage is 17.37mpg over 21254 miles, so fuel efficiency shouldn't be a reason to get a small engine (though I was averaging 23mpg in the S80 - maybe the TL is too much fun to drive). I test drove an LS430 and it was averaging 18mpg with that huge V8.
Oh, I just thought of a couple more things. The driver's side air vent broke but I was able to super glue it back together. The right rear right power window sometimes won't close using the driver's switch. I have to close it using the switch in the back (haven't had time to diagnose it yet).
Anyway, whatever you choose. Good luck!
Keeping judgmental comments to myself...
The following 2 users liked this post by SiClone:
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10-31-2013, 08:18 AM
#20
Just in case you didn't see my post about my transmission, here's what they quoted me today.
$4600 minimum to fix the transmission
$995 to fix a leaking oil pump
$850 for a couple engine mounts
$790 for front lower control arm bushings
Some of that you can do yourself but I'm just telling you what they told me.
So yeah...I'm really, really wondering what it would've been like if I had gotten a different car (trying to cope now). But I know I'll feel much better tomorrow and after it's fixed. I do like the car a lot.
$4600 minimum to fix the transmission
$995 to fix a leaking oil pump
$850 for a couple engine mounts
$790 for front lower control arm bushings
Some of that you can do yourself but I'm just telling you what they told me.
So yeah...I'm really, really wondering what it would've been like if I had gotten a different car (trying to cope now). But I know I'll feel much better tomorrow and after it's fixed. I do like the car a lot.
10-31-2013, 10:34 AM
#22
Yes. I'm going to take it to an independent transmission shop today, and most likely they will perform the necessary transmission repairs and maybe replace the engine mounts.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the oil pump leak. I tend to leave these types of issues alone because I can't see any immediate harm. I see no evidence of an oil leak.
I also haven't noticed anything from the lower control arm bushings such as noises or uneven tire wear, so I'll probably leave that alone as well.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the oil pump leak. I tend to leave these types of issues alone because I can't see any immediate harm. I see no evidence of an oil leak.
I also haven't noticed anything from the lower control arm bushings such as noises or uneven tire wear, so I'll probably leave that alone as well.
10-31-2013, 10:54 AM
#23
Now hold on there. How many miles are on your TL? The only thing that is even remotely "unique" is the over revving damage, and that is not that unique if you search for misfire codes in this forum, many of which are because of this issue. All it takes is ONE accidental shift going from 2 to 1 instead of 2 to 3 for this catastrophic damage to occur.
Everything else is standard maintenance and expected failures.
The front axles WILL fail. It's not a matter of IF.
The 3rd gear issue is not unique.
When the clutch goes, and it WILL go, you will need a new flywheel along with the clutch ($2040 job at the dealer).
If you're not used to running a performance tire, you will be surprised at how few miles you're going to get out of your tires (I know because I also own a Camry).
You will need a valve adjustment.
Bottom line: Maintenance is not cheap for the TL. Our Camry is still on the stock brake pads at over 70k miles. The tires seem to last forever.
You just need to decide if the ownership experience is worth the added cost. If I had known I was going to spend this kind of money on my TL, I would not have bought it.
Don't get me wrong though. Do I love my TL? Absolutely! Am I glad I'm "stuck" with it right now? Yes! But it is an impractical car, and I need practical at this stage in my life. I may buy a "toy" car someday but right now, I need to spend less money on my car.
Everything else is standard maintenance and expected failures.
The front axles WILL fail. It's not a matter of IF.
The 3rd gear issue is not unique.
When the clutch goes, and it WILL go, you will need a new flywheel along with the clutch ($2040 job at the dealer).
If you're not used to running a performance tire, you will be surprised at how few miles you're going to get out of your tires (I know because I also own a Camry).
You will need a valve adjustment.
Bottom line: Maintenance is not cheap for the TL. Our Camry is still on the stock brake pads at over 70k miles. The tires seem to last forever.
You just need to decide if the ownership experience is worth the added cost. If I had known I was going to spend this kind of money on my TL, I would not have bought it.
Don't get me wrong though. Do I love my TL? Absolutely! Am I glad I'm "stuck" with it right now? Yes! But it is an impractical car, and I need practical at this stage in my life. I may buy a "toy" car someday but right now, I need to spend less money on my car.
10-31-2013, 11:26 AM
#24
Head a da Family
Join Date: Jul 2003
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The only thing you'll want to be aware of is that once you get a 3rd Gen TL with a 6-speed you'll pretty much have the best car Acura has produced in the last 10 years with exception to the 07-08 TL-S.
Yeah, I went there. I sure wish Acura would do something about it. The conservative stuff they're pushing now-a-days is less than inspiring.
Yeah, I went there. I sure wish Acura would do something about it. The conservative stuff they're pushing now-a-days is less than inspiring.
I don't know WTF the folks at Acrua are thinking, but they better get their heads out of their asses because I don't see very many new Acuras out there on the roads these days.
I do however see 2013 Accords literally EVERYWHERE I look.
.
.
Last edited by DMZ; 10-31-2013 at 11:29 AM.
10-31-2013, 12:37 PM
#25
Just in case you didn't see my post about my transmission, here's what they quoted me today.
$4600 minimum to fix the transmission
$995 to fix a leaking oil pump
$850 for a couple engine mounts
$790 for front lower control arm bushings
Some of that you can do yourself but I'm just telling you what they told me.
So yeah...I'm really, really wondering what it would've been like if I had gotten a different car (trying to cope now). But I know I'll feel much better tomorrow and after it's fixed. I do like the car a lot.
$4600 minimum to fix the transmission
$995 to fix a leaking oil pump
$850 for a couple engine mounts
$790 for front lower control arm bushings
Some of that you can do yourself but I'm just telling you what they told me.
So yeah...I'm really, really wondering what it would've been like if I had gotten a different car (trying to cope now). But I know I'll feel much better tomorrow and after it's fixed. I do like the car a lot.
Xlr8 mounts can be had for way less than that & you can install yourself.
same goes for bushings & having a shop press them in for you.
I just did a clutchmasters stg3 clutch last week & i didnt spend more
than $1500 on parts and labor.I could only imagine going oem route. You need a new shop,sorry.
11-01-2013, 06:43 PM
#28
Oh I know those prices are ridiculous but I just wanted to note exactly what the dealer quoted me.
Are those aftermarket mounts as quiet as the OEM mounts?
To do the bushings, do I have to first remove the lower control arms myself?
How does that new clutch feel compared to stock? I've always been wondering about aftermarket clutches.
Are those aftermarket mounts as quiet as the OEM mounts?
To do the bushings, do I have to first remove the lower control arms myself?
How does that new clutch feel compared to stock? I've always been wondering about aftermarket clutches.
I'm sorry but youre getting ripped off,those prices are just ridiculous.
Xlr8 mounts can be had for way less than that & you can install yourself.
same goes for bushings & having a shop press them in for you.
I just did a clutchmasters stg3 clutch last week & i didnt spend more
than $1500 on parts and labor.I could only imagine going oem route. You need a new shop,sorry.
Xlr8 mounts can be had for way less than that & you can install yourself.
same goes for bushings & having a shop press them in for you.
I just did a clutchmasters stg3 clutch last week & i didnt spend more
than $1500 on parts and labor.I could only imagine going oem route. You need a new shop,sorry.
11-06-2013, 11:11 PM
#29
I received a detailed quote after an independent transmission shop opened up the transmission. 14 hours of labor at $95/hour plus parts.
$3700 is the total for the transmission and engine mounts.
I'm also having the clutch and flywheel replaced for an additional $600 since they're already out.
So Acura wanted $6650 for the transmission repair and engine mounts (though I think they would have later realized that they wouldn't have to charge me the entire $850 for the engine mounts since no additional labor would have been necessary to get to the mounts since the transmission is out).
Anyway, I don't feel ripped off because there's really nothing you can do about the cost of parts, and the labor is very reasonable.
I was also told that it's possible that the control arm bushings aren't replaceable but they inspected them, and told me that there was no reason to replace them. I'm not sure why Acura told me I needed that done for $790.
So for those keeping track of my list, it is now going to be well over $10,000 of repairs & maintenance. I bought the car when it was 3 years old with 77k miles. It's now about 3 years later, and I'm at 122k miles.
$3700 is the total for the transmission and engine mounts.
I'm also having the clutch and flywheel replaced for an additional $600 since they're already out.
So Acura wanted $6650 for the transmission repair and engine mounts (though I think they would have later realized that they wouldn't have to charge me the entire $850 for the engine mounts since no additional labor would have been necessary to get to the mounts since the transmission is out).
Anyway, I don't feel ripped off because there's really nothing you can do about the cost of parts, and the labor is very reasonable.
I was also told that it's possible that the control arm bushings aren't replaceable but they inspected them, and told me that there was no reason to replace them. I'm not sure why Acura told me I needed that done for $790.
So for those keeping track of my list, it is now going to be well over $10,000 of repairs & maintenance. I bought the car when it was 3 years old with 77k miles. It's now about 3 years later, and I'm at 122k miles.
I'm sorry but youre getting ripped off,those prices are just ridiculous.
Xlr8 mounts can be had for way less than that & you can install yourself.
same goes for bushings & having a shop press them in for you.
I just did a clutchmasters stg3 clutch last week & i didnt spend more
than $1500 on parts and labor.I could only imagine going oem route. You need a new shop,sorry.
Xlr8 mounts can be had for way less than that & you can install yourself.
same goes for bushings & having a shop press them in for you.
I just did a clutchmasters stg3 clutch last week & i didnt spend more
than $1500 on parts and labor.I could only imagine going oem route. You need a new shop,sorry.
Last edited by robocam; 11-06-2013 at 11:25 PM.
11-09-2013, 04:59 PM
#30
I received a detailed quote after an independent transmission shop opened up the transmission. 14 hours of labor at $95/hour plus parts.
$3700 is the total for the transmission and engine mounts.
I'm also having the clutch and flywheel replaced for an additional $600 since they're already out.
So Acura wanted $6650 for the transmission repair and engine mounts (though I think they would have later realized that they wouldn't have to charge me the entire $850 for the engine mounts since no additional labor would have been necessary to get to the mounts since the transmission is out).
Anyway, I don't feel ripped off because there's really nothing you can do about the cost of parts, and the labor is very reasonable.
I was also told that it's possible that the control arm bushings aren't replaceable but they inspected them, and told me that there was no reason to replace them. I'm not sure why Acura told me I needed that done for $790.
So for those keeping track of my list, it is now going to be well over $10,000 of repairs & maintenance. I bought the car when it was 3 years old with 77k miles. It's now about 3 years later, and I'm at 122k miles.
$3700 is the total for the transmission and engine mounts.
I'm also having the clutch and flywheel replaced for an additional $600 since they're already out.
So Acura wanted $6650 for the transmission repair and engine mounts (though I think they would have later realized that they wouldn't have to charge me the entire $850 for the engine mounts since no additional labor would have been necessary to get to the mounts since the transmission is out).
Anyway, I don't feel ripped off because there's really nothing you can do about the cost of parts, and the labor is very reasonable.
I was also told that it's possible that the control arm bushings aren't replaceable but they inspected them, and told me that there was no reason to replace them. I'm not sure why Acura told me I needed that done for $790.
So for those keeping track of my list, it is now going to be well over $10,000 of repairs & maintenance. I bought the car when it was 3 years old with 77k miles. It's now about 3 years later, and I'm at 122k miles.
Something that has worked for me when finding new service providers such as mechanics, landscapers, roofers, etc is going to Google and searching mechanic and your zip code. Look for ones that have good reviews and at least a few of them. Go to Verizon's superpages.com. Same story and with an added bonus look for ones that have the super guarantee where Verizon actually guarantees their work. Angie's list same process. Hell even going on to tirerack.com and finding installers in you area. Most are mechanics too. Again look at the reviews. I'm telling you. Find a good mechanic. Build a relationship. Bring all of your families' vehicles. I guarantee you he'll let you buy your own parts too after building up a friendship. That's the way I did it. Good luck.
Last edited by xkegsx; 11-09-2013 at 05:05 PM.
11-09-2013, 06:46 PM
#31
Are the bushings replaceable?
I need to replace the motor mounts and lower control arm bushings every 2 years? Do you know if the lower control arm bushings are replaceable? I've been told that I might need new lower control arms (that the bushings aren't replaceable). I just found this post about this.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...5&postcount=11
Thanks for the tips about finding mechanics. It's often difficult to resist the lifetime warranties that the chain stores provide. When I got my axles replaced, Dobbs gave me a lifetime warranty but sometimes I wonder how useful that might be. I think they're banking on my selling the car before they need to be replaced again. But yeah...after how much I've spent on my TL, I really need to take your advice.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...5&postcount=11
Thanks for the tips about finding mechanics. It's often difficult to resist the lifetime warranties that the chain stores provide. When I got my axles replaced, Dobbs gave me a lifetime warranty but sometimes I wonder how useful that might be. I think they're banking on my selling the car before they need to be replaced again. But yeah...after how much I've spent on my TL, I really need to take your advice.
Dude, I'm sorry but you're getting bent over on some of those prices. The independent transmission price is spot on. Everything else is at least 2-2.5x the cost of what it should be, if not more. Anyone that has a 3G TL knows that you're replacing motor mounts and control arm bushings multiple times over the life of the car. I'd say once every 2 years for even low spirited driving is the average. Those prices for the mounts and the bushings are sky high even for a dealership.
Something that has worked for me when finding new service providers such as mechanics, landscapers, roofers, etc is going to Google and searching mechanic and your zip code. Look for ones that have good reviews and at least a few of them. Go to Verizon's superpages.com. Same story and with an added bonus look for ones that have the super guarantee where Verizon actually guarantees their work. Angie's list same process. Hell even going on to tirerack.com and finding installers in you area. Most are mechanics too. Again look at the reviews. I'm telling you. Find a good mechanic. Build a relationship. Bring all of your families' vehicles. I guarantee you he'll let you buy your own parts too after building up a friendship. That's the way I did it. Good luck.
Something that has worked for me when finding new service providers such as mechanics, landscapers, roofers, etc is going to Google and searching mechanic and your zip code. Look for ones that have good reviews and at least a few of them. Go to Verizon's superpages.com. Same story and with an added bonus look for ones that have the super guarantee where Verizon actually guarantees their work. Angie's list same process. Hell even going on to tirerack.com and finding installers in you area. Most are mechanics too. Again look at the reviews. I'm telling you. Find a good mechanic. Build a relationship. Bring all of your families' vehicles. I guarantee you he'll let you buy your own parts too after building up a friendship. That's the way I did it. Good luck.
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