K&N air filter vs stockair filter
#1
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K&N air filter vs stockair filter
Hello everyone.
I just purchased a2007 tls and was wandering if you folks could help me. the car only has 16,000 miles and I want to replace the air filter, right now it has a stock filter and I would like to know if it is worth it to replace it with a K&N filter or is there a better aftermarket air filter. I also changed the oil to mobil 1 synthetic oil 5w-20. Has anyone tried the 0w-20 mobil oil? I'm not sure of the benefit to go to 0w vs 5w. Any info I would appreciate it.
I just purchased a2007 tls and was wandering if you folks could help me. the car only has 16,000 miles and I want to replace the air filter, right now it has a stock filter and I would like to know if it is worth it to replace it with a K&N filter or is there a better aftermarket air filter. I also changed the oil to mobil 1 synthetic oil 5w-20. Has anyone tried the 0w-20 mobil oil? I'm not sure of the benefit to go to 0w vs 5w. Any info I would appreciate it.
#2
Slow Paper> No Paper
Hello sir I used to have a K&N filter before switching to my CAI and it seemed to work pretty well. As for the oil you may want to do a search. There is alot of info on different oil used on this site so I'm sure you'll find your answer here. And welcome.
#4
Registered Member
Two things to keep in mind. K&N filters pass more air when new (or thoroughly cleaned) and also pass more debris in this condition. As they get dirty, they will filter a little better but pass less air. Another thing. They are oil-wetted. A small amount of this oil will make its way into the throttle body.
If any of this bothers you, go for an after-market dry element filter. A decent on is the Purolator A-25585 (make sure you get the one made in Israel).
If any of this bothers you, go for an after-market dry element filter. A decent on is the Purolator A-25585 (make sure you get the one made in Israel).
#5
In some vehicles the oil in the filter will cause a MAF sensor failure--even in new filters if overoiled from the factory--it happened to me and I took it to the dealer--they had to replace the MAF sensor and said to remove the oiled filter or next time I will have to pay for the service--I returned it to stock...
#6
Safety Car
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i have run a k&n air filter in every motorcycle and car i have owned for the last 20+ years with no problems...there is not going to be oil making its way into your intake....
so far, i am running a k&n filter, and i have mobil1 5w20 per the manual, mobil1 m1-110 oil filter and love it....
so far, i am running a k&n filter, and i have mobil1 5w20 per the manual, mobil1 m1-110 oil filter and love it....
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#9
AZ Community Team
Originally Posted by cristphoto
How about the 2006 TL?
Honda/Acura's have always used MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor for their engine management systems.
And MAP's are fairly immune to aftermarket K&N's and other filters with oil. The OEL filters for the TL are oil impregnated paper filters.
#10
Look at the engine, see that black metal pipe going from the valve cover to the rubber snout tube- the one that connects the air filter box- to the Throttle Body
There are oil and unburnt fuel vapors in the valve covers- this is routed via that metal pipe, back into the intake- to get remixed and burned again. Its crankcase ventilation, part of a smog system that cars have used for decades, and it puts oil residue at/on the TB plate all day long.
So the small possibility of over-oiling at the factory is not a real concern. Over oiling at refill is a prob, so follow the directions.
The K&N filters smaller particles when new and has higher flow rate over paper filters. The chart shows up to 50,000 miles before cleaning required (unless dusty where you live- which is most of us- then do it once a year)
At 50k miles- it is still flowing as much air as most paper filters do when new
Everyone should be using TB spray cleaner of some type at least once a year.
Do it with the fuel injector- induction cleaning- seafoam or wynns are good stuff
Techroline bottle does help part of it, I have been known to use it as well,- especially if running chevron gas right then- You have to study the label to find the max effort doseage!
There are other things that need a direct vac port induction, to clean things spotless.
The gas tank method gets the injectors clean the best, a main vac port gets all the intake manifold, and pistons the way they need to be for max efficiency.
thats my opinion- I use K&N on all the vehicles and told the neighbors about them.
There are oil and unburnt fuel vapors in the valve covers- this is routed via that metal pipe, back into the intake- to get remixed and burned again. Its crankcase ventilation, part of a smog system that cars have used for decades, and it puts oil residue at/on the TB plate all day long.
So the small possibility of over-oiling at the factory is not a real concern. Over oiling at refill is a prob, so follow the directions.
The K&N filters smaller particles when new and has higher flow rate over paper filters. The chart shows up to 50,000 miles before cleaning required (unless dusty where you live- which is most of us- then do it once a year)
At 50k miles- it is still flowing as much air as most paper filters do when new
Everyone should be using TB spray cleaner of some type at least once a year.
Do it with the fuel injector- induction cleaning- seafoam or wynns are good stuff
Techroline bottle does help part of it, I have been known to use it as well,- especially if running chevron gas right then- You have to study the label to find the max effort doseage!
There are other things that need a direct vac port induction, to clean things spotless.
The gas tank method gets the injectors clean the best, a main vac port gets all the intake manifold, and pistons the way they need to be for max efficiency.
thats my opinion- I use K&N on all the vehicles and told the neighbors about them.
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