justnjacks vs XLR8 75a Motor Mounts!
10-01-2013, 08:35 PM
#1
justnjacks vs XLR8 75a Motor Mounts!
so, the install was supposed to be done the same day, but since she isnt a daily , I had time to spare!
Just finished the XLR8 75a Durometer Motor Mount install.
I started on saturday afternoon, thinking it would be an easy chore.
the side mount and the front mount are the easiest motherfucking things to do.
I had them off in no time.
the rear is a bit tricky.
I'm not tall enough to reach over the engine, so I have to crouch/squat/kneel in the engine bay to reach the rear.
and from the factory, those bolts are torqued pretty tight.
I struggled and came into some obstacles.
some of the bolts you will have to be creative in order to reach them. using wrenches in small places to access hidden bolts, etc.
Side mount comparison
struggling with front mount
struggling with front mount
Struggling with rear mount
front mount comparison
removed side mount
what I removed to gain easy access
jacking up engine by oil pan, using a piece of wood in between oil pan and jack
thats as far as I had gotten on Saturday evening.
Sunday, rolled around and I noticed I'd fucked up parts of the install.
the rear mount wasnt lining up correctly.
and
the xlr8 side mount is a lot shorter than the OEM mount, thus the bolts are too long for the XLR8 mount.
there are two solutions to the side mount.
A) washers
B) buy the correct length bolt.
I couldnt find the correct length bolt and went to the washer idea.
I must admit, it does look ghetto as FAWK!
the rear mount wasnt lining up correctly and I knew what went wrong.
I installed the XLR8 upper mount flipped.
the XLR8 Base cant go wrong because its a square.
but the upper mount needs to go on a certain way so that the engine mounts up.
Since, I had a tough time squatting in the engine bay on saturday, I enlisted my friend bada$$vtec to come over and use his long ass body to help me with re-doing the rear.
that was last night.
today, I put the car back together and finally got to drive her after a long weekend.
initial thoughts:
wow, the OEM mounts were busted. these XLR8 75A's firmed up the ride!
I can feel the clutch better, the engagement point i mean.
which means, better shifting.
slight vibration in the steering wheel. kinda like an arcade game. force feed back.
Crusin' USA!
didnt really bother me in the short initial test drive
down shifts are better, because i can feel the engagement point and Im much quicker.
fellas, dont be afraid of the 75a's. they are so tame compared to some of the subies ive been in
Just finished the XLR8 75a Durometer Motor Mount install.
I started on saturday afternoon, thinking it would be an easy chore.
the side mount and the front mount are the easiest motherfucking things to do.
I had them off in no time.
the rear is a bit tricky.
I'm not tall enough to reach over the engine, so I have to crouch/squat/kneel in the engine bay to reach the rear.
and from the factory, those bolts are torqued pretty tight.
I struggled and came into some obstacles.
some of the bolts you will have to be creative in order to reach them. using wrenches in small places to access hidden bolts, etc.
Side mount comparison
struggling with front mount
struggling with front mount
Struggling with rear mount
front mount comparison
removed side mount
what I removed to gain easy access
jacking up engine by oil pan, using a piece of wood in between oil pan and jack
thats as far as I had gotten on Saturday evening.
Sunday, rolled around and I noticed I'd fucked up parts of the install.
the rear mount wasnt lining up correctly.
and
the xlr8 side mount is a lot shorter than the OEM mount, thus the bolts are too long for the XLR8 mount.
there are two solutions to the side mount.
A) washers
B) buy the correct length bolt.
I couldnt find the correct length bolt and went to the washer idea.
I must admit, it does look ghetto as FAWK!
the rear mount wasnt lining up correctly and I knew what went wrong.
I installed the XLR8 upper mount flipped.
the XLR8 Base cant go wrong because its a square.
but the upper mount needs to go on a certain way so that the engine mounts up.
Since, I had a tough time squatting in the engine bay on saturday, I enlisted my friend bada$$vtec to come over and use his long ass body to help me with re-doing the rear.
that was last night.
today, I put the car back together and finally got to drive her after a long weekend.
initial thoughts:
wow, the OEM mounts were busted. these XLR8 75A's firmed up the ride!
I can feel the clutch better, the engagement point i mean.
which means, better shifting.
slight vibration in the steering wheel. kinda like an arcade game. force feed back.
Crusin' USA!
didnt really bother me in the short initial test drive
down shifts are better, because i can feel the engagement point and Im much quicker.
fellas, dont be afraid of the 75a's. they are so tame compared to some of the subies ive been in
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ScottayHiFive (10-01-2013)
10-01-2013, 08:40 PM
#2
Team Owner
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Nice documentation, Justin.
10-01-2013, 09:22 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
I keep old blankets and some times go to garage sales when i need a new one, but i use them to lay under the car and on top of the motor when i need to do work like you did. It makes the motor much more comfortable.
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justnspace (10-01-2013)
10-01-2013, 09:40 PM
#7
Let me reword that...
Why didn't he ship you the correct length bolts?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...6&postcount=44
Why didn't he ship you the correct length bolts?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...6&postcount=44
Trending Topics
10-01-2013, 09:44 PM
#8
And that's why I'll be contacting him! 
i honestly didnt read a single thing about these.
I knew I needed them because I kept breaking exhaust pieces and wanted the stiffest mounts available.
and I had the confidence in installing them without reading, I didnt know they were supposed to come with shorter bolts.
i honestly didnt read a single thing about these.
I knew I needed them because I kept breaking exhaust pieces and wanted the stiffest mounts available.
and I had the confidence in installing them without reading, I didnt know they were supposed to come with shorter bolts.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 10-02-2013 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
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justnspace (10-01-2013)
10-01-2013, 09:59 PM
#12
you'll want to install the xlr8 75a motor mounts asap.
I've found so far that only the 6mt's are breaking welds!
the engine torques just so much, since we have the ability to have it in gear at peak power at any given moment.
I live at redline all day, those exhaust welds take a beating.
I've found so far that only the 6mt's are breaking welds!
the engine torques just so much, since we have the ability to have it in gear at peak power at any given moment.I live at redline all day, those exhaust welds take a beating.
Last edited by justnspace; 10-01-2013 at 10:02 PM.
10-01-2013, 10:09 PM
#13
you'll want to install the xlr8 75a motor mounts asap.
I've found so far that only the 6mt's are breaking welds! the engine torques just so much, since we have the ability to have it in gear at peak power at any given moment.
I live at redline all day, those exhaust welds take a beating.
I've found so far that only the 6mt's are breaking welds!
the engine torques just so much, since we have the ability to have it in gear at peak power at any given moment.I live at redline all day, those exhaust welds take a beating.
Too many other benefits to having stiffer motor mounts and they are a preventative maintenance item so I consider this an *investment* and a measure of security.
I'm sure the stock mounts don't take well to many violent 5th-3rd drops either.
10-02-2013, 02:08 AM
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
justin, looks like you need some more tools! the front is cake if you have the right extensions. When I did mine I had it extended all the way above the radiator, so I put a breaker on it and broke it loose nice and easy. Same thing for the rear, I climb on the engine and guide the socket in(you'll need a universal joint since its at an angle). Then get off your engine, put a breaker on and break it loose, no problems for me. just make sure with extensions that long to use 1/2" drive parts for strength
other than that, good job! its not an easy task but if you ever do it again it'll be much quicker. Now I am able to do the rear about the same time as the front. But that has mostly to do with the fact that the front requires loosening the upper radiator hose.
other than that, good job! its not an easy task but if you ever do it again it'll be much quicker. Now I am able to do the rear about the same time as the front. But that has mostly to do with the fact that the front requires loosening the upper radiator hose.
Last edited by paperboy42190; 10-02-2013 at 02:11 AM.
10-02-2013, 07:13 AM
#16
justin, looks like you need some more tools! the front is cake if you have the right extensions. When I did mine I had it extended all the way above the radiator, so I put a breaker on it and broke it loose nice and easy. Same thing for the rear, I climb on the engine and guide the socket in(you'll need a universal joint since its at an angle). Then get off your engine, put a breaker on and break it loose, no problems for me. just make sure with extensions that long to use 1/2" drive parts for strength
other than that, good job! its not an easy task but if you ever do it again it'll be much quicker. Now I am able to do the rear about the same time as the front. But that has mostly to do with the fact that the front requires loosening the upper radiator hose.
other than that, good job! its not an easy task but if you ever do it again it'll be much quicker. Now I am able to do the rear about the same time as the front. But that has mostly to do with the fact that the front requires loosening the upper radiator hose.
i told you i had to come up with creative ways to get the bolts.
you're right tho, if i had the correct tools, it would have been easier.
10-02-2013, 07:58 AM
#18
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Let me reword that...
Why didn't he ship you the correct length bolts?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...6&postcount=44
Why didn't he ship you the correct length bolts?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...6&postcount=44
I haven't done the back yet, but the others weren't too bad. I did the front without removing any radiator hoses or the fans; just unbolted the overflow reservoir and moved it to the side. I've got the 62a and with just the front and sides, there's noticeable vibration over oem and I don't feel much improvement over stock, although mine weren't broken. I do feel a bit more connected to the car, but I'm not blown away. I think most people who notice vast improvements were driving on broken mounts for quite some time.
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10-02-2013, 08:09 AM
#19
my oem mounts were blown and leaking, but I didnt know until i took them off.
I'm sitting at 64k miles and I have no doubt that my aggressive driving with the 6mt being able to rock the engine blew the OEM mounts faster.
the 75a's arent bad at all. they're super tame.
and yes, i thought it was going to be a VAST improvement.
but my feelings are skewed because my oem mounts were blown.
I'm sitting at 64k miles and I have no doubt that my aggressive driving with the 6mt being able to rock the engine blew the OEM mounts faster.
the 75a's arent bad at all. they're super tame.
and yes, i thought it was going to be a VAST improvement.
but my feelings are skewed because my oem mounts were blown.
Last edited by justnspace; 10-02-2013 at 08:12 AM.
10-02-2013, 08:19 AM
#20
He just says what people want to hear. I got mine a few weeks ago and there were no bolts in the box. I went to the hardware store and bought some 25 mm bolts.
I haven't done the back yet, but the others weren't too bad. I did the front without removing any radiator hoses or the fans; just unbolted the overflow reservoir and moved it to the side. I've got the 62a and with just the front and sides, there's noticeable vibration over oem and I don't feel much improvement over stock, although mine weren't broken. I do feel a bit more connected to the car, but I'm not blown away. I think most people who notice vast improvements were driving on broken mounts for quite some time.
I haven't done the back yet, but the others weren't too bad. I did the front without removing any radiator hoses or the fans; just unbolted the overflow reservoir and moved it to the side. I've got the 62a and with just the front and sides, there's noticeable vibration over oem and I don't feel much improvement over stock, although mine weren't broken. I do feel a bit more connected to the car, but I'm not blown away. I think most people who notice vast improvements were driving on broken mounts for quite some time.
my oem mounts were blown and leaking, but I didnt know until i took them off.
I'm sitting at 64k miles and I have no doubt that my aggressive driving with the 6mt being able to rock the engine blew the OEM mounts faster.
the 75a's arent bad at all. they're super tame.
and yes, i thought it was going to be a VAST improvement.
but my feelings are skewed because my oem mounts were blown.
I'm sitting at 64k miles and I have no doubt that my aggressive driving with the 6mt being able to rock the engine blew the OEM mounts faster.
the 75a's arent bad at all. they're super tame.
and yes, i thought it was going to be a VAST improvement.
but my feelings are skewed because my oem mounts were blown.
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justnspace (10-02-2013)
10-02-2013, 09:04 AM
#26
this is from Saturday's install. I took off my jpipe. you can see the oil pan and gap where the PCD is supposed to be.
no bracket
another pic of underneath the engine showing the rear motor mount where the rear PCD is. you can see the defouler and o2 sensor.
no bracket
another pic of underneath the engine showing the rear motor mount where the rear PCD is. you can see the defouler and o2 sensor.
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vill0169 (10-02-2013)
10-02-2013, 09:59 AM
#30
its mostly left up to the consumer to figure out how to install it.
the base of the mounts are the same.
they are squares with 4 mounting holes. you cant go wrong with the base.
however; the floating upper mount has to be installed one way. on the rear mount, I had the floating upper flipped the wrong way and would not line up with engine.
10-02-2013, 10:21 AM
#31
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Good lord! I hope the pics are just missing and you actually covered that fragile radiator with some cardboard or something!
10-02-2013, 12:07 PM
#33
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Not advisable to most!
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justnspace (10-02-2013)
10-02-2013, 12:31 PM
#34
thats why it ended up being a "show and tell" type thread and not a DIY.
Lots of common sense is needed with this install.
like figuring out how to get to hidden bolts, making sure the radiator isnt hit, re-filling radiator with coolant after spilling with the removal of the hose, etc.
Lots of common sense is needed with this install.
like figuring out how to get to hidden bolts, making sure the radiator isnt hit, re-filling radiator with coolant after spilling with the removal of the hose, etc.
10-02-2013, 01:03 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
Give it a feel more break-in, you'll eventually feel vibrations once it settles. Only at idle i'd believe. Done many motor mounts that it's a good investment to performance parts, especially for the exhaust powers (pcd,jpipe,exxhaust).
10-03-2013, 12:49 AM
#40
The base auto has the bracket as well, I moved it over from the stock cat to the HFPC when I did mine.
I can also vouch for putting some cardboard by that radiator, I thought I was good the other week when I was changing the alternator and a breaker bar rolled off my intake manifold, barely tapped the radiator and it started leaking.
2 days without the car wasn't bad though, I ordered a denso radiator from amazon and put it in already, but it was $150 I didn't want to spend ($100 for rad, about $50 for honda type 2 coolant).
I can also vouch for putting some cardboard by that radiator, I thought I was good the other week when I was changing the alternator and a breaker bar rolled off my intake manifold, barely tapped the radiator and it started leaking.
2 days without the car wasn't bad though, I ordered a denso radiator from amazon and put it in already, but it was $150 I didn't want to spend ($100 for rad, about $50 for honda type 2 coolant).