How to tell if 105K service was done?
11-04-2015, 03:27 PM
#1
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How to tell if 105K service was done?
I just picked up a 07' type s with 111K on the clock. The carfax has regular services noted, but nothing about the 105K service. The only things listed are oil changes, alignments, etc...
The serpentine belt looks fine, there are no leaks that I can see without pulling the timing cover, the pullies are not leaking, the parts are not super clean nor super dirty. No bearing whine/play, overheating issues, or noisy valves. My brake pads are a bit thin, I do not think they were done in the last year or so.
I am an experienced DIY mechanic, and have modded/worked on several hondas and jeeps. I do not want to wait for my timing belt/pulley failure to kill my engine. Should I bite the bullet and do the work? The Acura stealership said that if I could not find a record, then they recommend it without looking at the car........ typical.
Any tail tail signs? All the parts so far are oem as far as I can tell. Thanks!
The serpentine belt looks fine, there are no leaks that I can see without pulling the timing cover, the pullies are not leaking, the parts are not super clean nor super dirty. No bearing whine/play, overheating issues, or noisy valves. My brake pads are a bit thin, I do not think they were done in the last year or so.
I am an experienced DIY mechanic, and have modded/worked on several hondas and jeeps. I do not want to wait for my timing belt/pulley failure to kill my engine. Should I bite the bullet and do the work? The Acura stealership said that if I could not find a record, then they recommend it without looking at the car........ typical.
Any tail tail signs? All the parts so far are oem as far as I can tell. Thanks!
11-04-2015, 03:33 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
take of the Timing belt cover and take a look. That's really one of the most surefire ways
11-04-2015, 03:41 PM
#3
The waterpump should shine with 6K on it...I really doubt it was done, as its a good added value when selling a car that just barely passed the scheduled maintenance point.
11-04-2015, 03:46 PM
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^ That is what I was thinking. Every oil change was on the carfax, but no $1000+ major service? I will start sourcing the parts listed in the 105k sticky here. Funny thing is the valves are not noisy at all, and the plugs are no more than 2 years old. Seems the PO was so-so.
11-04-2015, 03:49 PM
#5
Registered Bunny
^ That is what I was thinking. Every oil change was on the carfax, but no $1000+ major service? I will start sourcing the parts listed in the 105k sticky here. Funny thing is the valves are not noisy at all, and the plugs are no more than 2 years old. Seems the PO was so-so.
11-04-2015, 05:36 PM
#6
^ That is what I was thinking. Every oil change was on the carfax, but no $1000+ major service? I will start sourcing the parts listed in the 105k sticky here. Funny thing is the valves are not noisy at all, and the plugs are no more than 2 years old. Seems the PO was so-so.
11-04-2015, 08:07 PM
#7
Honda/Acura Belts have a date code on it. Line it up with your build date and you know it is original. If it has say a 2014 date, you know it was changed recently but not exactly when
- If it is aftermarket - well it was change somewhere along the line...
I remember onetime I had bought a honda engine for an accord I picked up with a blown one. The belt on it had been changed, but I was not sure when.
- I put a new one on just to make sure I knew when.
I'm at 175K with original timing belt. My idler pulley is noisy on cold mornings, but that's it. All timings are still good, belt is working condition, no cracks, no damage. The dealer checked it all this summer and was surprised that this long after it was supposed to be done, there was no indication of potential failure anytime soon
Bought the cars for a fraction of their value if the belt had not broken.
Guess what the belts looked like (except for the few inches where they broke)???
---Basically exactly as you described above.
Guess where all three broke? Two in their driveway, and one in the dealership entry. They do not break at speed. They break when you hit the gas from a start!
Send me a PM if yours break. I'll buy your car for 25% of its value anyday.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-06-2015 at 08:09 AM. Reason: Merged Posts
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11-04-2015, 08:47 PM
#8
The previous (original) owner of my regular TL had the timing belt break last year, at 122k miles. It currently sits at 136k miles. I have it for sale since I was able to find the Type-S I originally wanted, and dont need two TL's. Total for a used low mileage engine with labor and everything else, was over 5 grand
11-04-2015, 09:23 PM
#9
Safety Car
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I'm at 175K with original timing belt. My idler pulley is noisy on cold mornings, but that's it. All timings are still good, belt is working condition, no cracks, no damage. The dealer checked it all this summer and was surprised that this long after it was supposed to be done, there was no indication of potential failure anytime soon
2. i would change the belt asap. that's way too many miles and too many years without a new belt. i bet when a belt breaks, 9 times out of 10 there were no signs beforehand...i'd rather do an $800 maintenance item than fix an engine
I can tell you I have picked up two Audi's and one Mitsubishi with broken timing belts on interference fit engines. I ended up fixing them, put a ton of miles on them and sold them for what I had in them or more...
Bought the cars for a fraction of their value if the belt had not broken.
Guess what the belts looked like (except for the few inches where they broke)???
---Basically exactly as you described above.
Guess where all three broke? Two in their driveway, and one in the dealership entry. They do not break at speed. They break when you hit the gas from a start!
Send me a PM if yours break. I'll buy your car for 25% of its value anyday.
Bought the cars for a fraction of their value if the belt had not broken.
Guess what the belts looked like (except for the few inches where they broke)???
---Basically exactly as you described above.
Guess where all three broke? Two in their driveway, and one in the dealership entry. They do not break at speed. They break when you hit the gas from a start!
Send me a PM if yours break. I'll buy your car for 25% of its value anyday.
11-04-2015, 10:02 PM
#10
I can tell you I have picked up two Audi's and one Mitsubishi with broken timing belts on interference fit engines. I ended up fixing them, put a ton of miles on them and sold them for what I had in them or more...
Bought the cars for a fraction of their value if the belt had not broken.
Guess what the belts looked like (except for the few inches where they broke)???
---Basically exactly as you described above.
Guess where all three broke? Two in their driveway, and one in the dealership entry. They do not break at speed. They break when you hit the gas from a start!
Send me a PM if yours break. I'll buy your car for 25% of its value anyday.
Bought the cars for a fraction of their value if the belt had not broken.
Guess what the belts looked like (except for the few inches where they broke)???
---Basically exactly as you described above.
Guess where all three broke? Two in their driveway, and one in the dealership entry. They do not break at speed. They break when you hit the gas from a start!
Send me a PM if yours break. I'll buy your car for 25% of its value anyday.
1. i'm surprised the dealer didn't want to jump on this maintenance item to make some cash haha
2. i would change the belt asap. that's way too many miles and too many years without a new belt. i bet when a belt breaks, 9 times out of 10 there were no signs beforehand...i'd rather do an $800 maintenance item than fix an engine
2. i would change the belt asap. that's way too many miles and too many years without a new belt. i bet when a belt breaks, 9 times out of 10 there were no signs beforehand...i'd rather do an $800 maintenance item than fix an engine
Part of the legal procedure required a full engine inspection, including tranny and exhaust. Turns out the dealer doesn't do those, they outsource to a special garage that has the equipment to test many things the dealer doesnt do like exhaust gasses, oil quality and contaminants, o2 readings, valve timings and about 150 other points. Because this is a court mandated inspection that will be used as evidence in a trial, they have to inspect all the points and grade them by color, Green, yellow, red, black, and I guarantee they don't skip over anything or botch the job because their inspection is a legal witness statement. Most of my results were green, including timing belt and water pump. There was a comment on the bottom that the belt should be changed regardless because it has passed maintenance schedule, but belt is tight, no cracking, no missing teeth, no oil leaks, no signs of weakness. The guy told me straight up, teh belt is good to go, the rubber is well preserved and inner fibers are nice and tight. Hes not worried about that, but about the rest of the package like crank seals and pulleys.
11-04-2015, 10:14 PM
#11
Drifting
Here are some ways to check for T belt service.
1. Look for a T belt service sticker on the front shock tower. If it's been done at a indie shop they will place a T belt service sticker there on the shock tower next to the T belt.
2. Look in the owners manual. Under service/maintenance for a T belt service.
3.Ask the previous owner.
4. Ask an Acura dealer to run the VIN.
You might get lucky and save a lot of money.
1. Look for a T belt service sticker on the front shock tower. If it's been done at a indie shop they will place a T belt service sticker there on the shock tower next to the T belt.
2. Look in the owners manual. Under service/maintenance for a T belt service.
3.Ask the previous owner.
4. Ask an Acura dealer to run the VIN.
You might get lucky and save a lot of money.
11-05-2015, 07:35 AM
#12
You are the one pushing 175K on the original belt:
So as an engineer that works closely with materials engineering and development of leading edge fabrics utilizing Kevlar and Vectran, I have to ask/question:
- So your "guy" has Both X-Ray and Microscopic Vision???
IF so, he should be working in a different industry.
How the F could he tell if the internal fibers are nice? What does "tight" mean in this application?
And in the end, to inspect the belt that closely it would have to be off the vehicle, so why would you not just slap one on?
Now that I think about it - I retract my offer to you on the following basis:
- Anyone that would have a proactive maintenance philosophly like yours on the timing belt probably applies that to the brakes, fluids, and general appearance items.
- I bet you still have the original brake fluid in your car! Nice and dark, right? Isn't that what it is supposed to look like? No water in that fluid according to your "guy" right?
- So your "guy" has Both X-Ray and Microscopic Vision???
IF so, he should be working in a different industry.
How the F could he tell if the internal fibers are nice? What does "tight" mean in this application?
And in the end, to inspect the belt that closely it would have to be off the vehicle, so why would you not just slap one on?
Now that I think about it - I retract my offer to you on the following basis:
- Anyone that would have a proactive maintenance philosophly like yours on the timing belt probably applies that to the brakes, fluids, and general appearance items.
- I bet you still have the original brake fluid in your car! Nice and dark, right? Isn't that what it is supposed to look like? No water in that fluid according to your "guy" right?
11-05-2015, 08:24 AM
#13
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
I'm at 175K with original timing belt. My idler pulley is noisy on cold mornings, but that's it. All timings are still good, belt is working condition, no cracks, no damage. The dealer checked it all this summer and was surprised that this long after it was supposed to be done, there was no indication of potential failure anytime soon
11-05-2015, 09:36 AM
#14
You are the one pushing 175K on the original belt:
So as an engineer that works closely with materials engineering and development of leading edge fabrics utilizing Kevlar and Vectran, I have to ask/question:
- So your "guy" has Both X-Ray and Microscopic Vision???
IF so, he should be working in a different industry.
How the F could he tell if the internal fibers are nice? What does "tight" mean in this application?
So as an engineer that works closely with materials engineering and development of leading edge fabrics utilizing Kevlar and Vectran, I have to ask/question:
- So your "guy" has Both X-Ray and Microscopic Vision???
IF so, he should be working in a different industry.
How the F could he tell if the internal fibers are nice? What does "tight" mean in this application?
And in the end, to inspect the belt that closely it would have to be off the vehicle, so why would you not just slap one on?
Last edited by polish_pat; 11-05-2015 at 09:49 AM.
11-05-2015, 10:19 AM
#16
Senior Moderator
11-05-2015, 10:24 AM
#17
Sharing a damn forum americans that always have to have things different, like units of measure is bound to fuck up a few conversations...a case of lost in translation. You guys just assumes it was miles. I'm from Canada, its KM.
Last edited by polish_pat; 11-05-2015 at 10:32 AM.
11-05-2015, 10:35 AM
#18
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Wow dude. "i would change the belt asap. that's way too many miles and too many years without a new belt." You replied directly to this with a rant about your transmission. Would've been really helpful to point out that it's not miles. Getcho self outta here.
OP - the only way to know for sure is to pull the covers (which means removing the crank pulley). If you are mechanically inclined, do it and see if the belt is stretched and if the water pump is shiny new. If not follow these suggestions here to see if you can find out. If you can see that services were done, try seeing which dealer did the services so you can call the right dealer.
OP - the only way to know for sure is to pull the covers (which means removing the crank pulley). If you are mechanically inclined, do it and see if the belt is stretched and if the water pump is shiny new. If not follow these suggestions here to see if you can find out. If you can see that services were done, try seeing which dealer did the services so you can call the right dealer.
Here are some ways to check for T belt service.
1. Look for a T belt service sticker on the front shock tower. If it's been done at a indie shop they will place a T belt service sticker there on the shock tower next to the T belt.
2. Look in the owners manual. Under service/maintenance for a T belt service.
3.Ask the previous owner.
4. Ask an Acura dealer to run the VIN.
You might get lucky and save a lot of money.
1. Look for a T belt service sticker on the front shock tower. If it's been done at a indie shop they will place a T belt service sticker there on the shock tower next to the T belt.
2. Look in the owners manual. Under service/maintenance for a T belt service.
3.Ask the previous owner.
4. Ask an Acura dealer to run the VIN.
You might get lucky and save a lot of money.
Last edited by Vlad_Type_S; 11-05-2015 at 10:41 AM.
11-05-2015, 12:08 PM
#20
That is quite obvious.
Internal components as I implied you would need to evaluate!
It is not the outer jacket as your guy with some sort of X-Ray Vision with a microscope says he can see through to the internal structural components, or perhaps you can.
Moderator - can this thread be locked? I think the OP has quite a few good solutions along with another solution to just roll the friggin dice made by Polish Pat here...
Internal components as I implied you would need to evaluate!
It is not the outer jacket as your guy with some sort of X-Ray Vision with a microscope says he can see through to the internal structural components, or perhaps you can.
Moderator - can this thread be locked? I think the OP has quite a few good solutions along with another solution to just roll the friggin dice made by Polish Pat here...
11-05-2015, 12:29 PM
#21
That is quite obvious.
Internal components as I implied you would need to evaluate!
It is not the outer jacket as your guy with some sort of X-Ray Vision with a microscope says he can see through to the internal structural components, or perhaps you can.
Moderator - can this thread be locked? I think the OP has quite a few good solutions along with another solution to just roll the friggin dice made by Polish Pat here...
Internal components as I implied you would need to evaluate!
It is not the outer jacket as your guy with some sort of X-Ray Vision with a microscope says he can see through to the internal structural components, or perhaps you can.
Moderator - can this thread be locked? I think the OP has quite a few good solutions along with another solution to just roll the friggin dice made by Polish Pat here...
Also, Mr. Engineer, the correlation between the internal structure and the outer rubber is a direct one. If you have a damaged core, you will see indications on the outer rubber, just like on a tire.
If a timing belt has not changed in size, stretched or retracted, and there is no rubber damage, no cracking, no teeth missing, what exactly points you to the fact that the inside is compromised? You on the edge work with super secret materials? There is simply too much stress on the materials all the time that once something fails, its a domino effect until catastrophic failure
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-06-2015 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Cleaned
11-05-2015, 12:44 PM
#22
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Thanks for all the info guys. I will look for the dates/ stickers. I already talked to the dealer with no documentation it was done. If I do not find a recent belt date or sticker I will do the maint. Thanks again!
11-05-2015, 08:40 PM
#24
Ya, no. Sit down and be quiet. Who are you to ask for a thread to be closed? On the ground of me trolling? Ya, maybe next time you address someone, make sure it doesn't include 50% of insults and sarcasm.
Also, Mr. Engineer, the correlation between the internal structure and the outer rubber is a direct one. If you have a damaged core, you will see indications on the outer rubber, just like on a tire.
If a timing belt has not changed in size, stretched or retracted, and there is no rubber damage, no cracking, no teeth missing, what exactly points you to the fact that the inside is compromised? You on the edge work with super secret materials? There is simply too much stress on the materials all the time that once something fails, its a domino effect until catastrophic failure
Also, Mr. Engineer, the correlation between the internal structure and the outer rubber is a direct one. If you have a damaged core, you will see indications on the outer rubber, just like on a tire.
If a timing belt has not changed in size, stretched or retracted, and there is no rubber damage, no cracking, no teeth missing, what exactly points you to the fact that the inside is compromised? You on the edge work with super secret materials? There is simply too much stress on the materials all the time that once something fails, its a domino effect until catastrophic failure
11-05-2015, 09:36 PM
#25
Race Director
Take the timing cover off, look at the data on the belt.
Honda/Acura Belts have a date code on it. Line it up with your build date and you know it is original. If it has say a 2014 date, you know it was changed recently but not exactly when
- If it is aftermarket - well it was change somewhere along the line...
I remember onetime I had bought a honda engine for an accord I picked up with a blown one. The belt on it had been changed, but I was not sure when.
- I put a new one on just to make sure I knew when.
Honda/Acura Belts have a date code on it. Line it up with your build date and you know it is original. If it has say a 2014 date, you know it was changed recently but not exactly when
- If it is aftermarket - well it was change somewhere along the line...
I remember onetime I had bought a honda engine for an accord I picked up with a blown one. The belt on it had been changed, but I was not sure when.
- I put a new one on just to make sure I knew when.
11-05-2015, 11:16 PM
#26
I'm getting ready to do my 07 TL will check it when it is off and report back.
11-05-2015, 11:24 PM
#27
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I was just going to say this.. if it's not there, it's likely so old that it faded away.. so it's probably the original. For sure our new belts had markings. I'd imagine the old belt did as well.
11-11-2015, 09:00 PM
#28
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...ileage-938606/
I posted a few pix and wrote up a few suggestions to help Mr Clean and others out in the future. Changed my timing belt/tensioner/water pump the other morning.
11-22-2015, 01:27 AM
#30
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How about other maintenance? Motor Mounts, Compliance bushing, Valve Adjustment, Transmission mounts? Just curious because I just purchased an 07 TL that had the Timing belt changed along with the water pump. I bought it with 117k.
I will be performing the spark plugs, ATF change, and what not. Any others I should consider??
S
I will be performing the spark plugs, ATF change, and what not. Any others I should consider??
S
I just picked up a 07' type s with 111K on the clock. The carfax has regular services noted, but nothing about the 105K service. The only things listed are oil changes, alignments, etc...
The serpentine belt looks fine, there are no leaks that I can see without pulling the timing cover, the pullies are not leaking, the parts are not super clean nor super dirty. No bearing whine/play, overheating issues, or noisy valves. My brake pads are a bit thin, I do not think they were done in the last year or so.
I am an experienced DIY mechanic, and have modded/worked on several hondas and jeeps. I do not want to wait for my timing belt/pulley failure to kill my engine. Should I bite the bullet and do the work? The Acura stealership said that if I could not find a record, then they recommend it without looking at the car........ typical.
Any tail tail signs? All the parts so far are oem as far as I can tell. Thanks!
The serpentine belt looks fine, there are no leaks that I can see without pulling the timing cover, the pullies are not leaking, the parts are not super clean nor super dirty. No bearing whine/play, overheating issues, or noisy valves. My brake pads are a bit thin, I do not think they were done in the last year or so.
I am an experienced DIY mechanic, and have modded/worked on several hondas and jeeps. I do not want to wait for my timing belt/pulley failure to kill my engine. Should I bite the bullet and do the work? The Acura stealership said that if I could not find a record, then they recommend it without looking at the car........ typical.
Any tail tail signs? All the parts so far are oem as far as I can tell. Thanks!
11-24-2015, 12:39 AM
#31
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
I find that people usually sell the car right around the 100k mile mark since thats when the value starts depreciating quite a bit, and also so they can avoid the big timing belt service. Chances are, if you bought a TL with around 100k miles, and you do not have absolute proof of the service, it hasn't been changed.
11-24-2015, 10:30 AM
#32
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
How about other maintenance? Motor Mounts, Compliance bushing, Valve Adjustment, Transmission mounts? Just curious because I just purchased an 07 TL that had the Timing belt changed along with the water pump. I bought it with 117k.
I will be performing the spark plugs, ATF change, and what not. Any others I should consider??
S
I will be performing the spark plugs, ATF change, and what not. Any others I should consider??
S
In addition to what you're already doing - checking the valve lash wouldn't hurt (valve adjustment), as well as inspecting the mounts. Also, check the ball joints for play as I've seen quite a few failures around the same mileage (120k ish).
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