DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

So, she's getting up there for sure, and there's no doubt the compliance bushings are once again gone. While I will be replacing them in short order, aside from the compliance bushings, are there any others you'd recommend replacing?

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Also, while we're at it, has anyone made one better?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I'm in the exact same boat, man.

I'm planning to order all 3 bushings (#9, #10, #11) as I'll be taking out the lower control arm myself and getting a shop to press the bushings out for me.

Heeltoe has aftermarket bushings, but they're really expensive.

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...x-tl-tl-s.html

robocam

Just out of curiosity, what mileage are you at? What signs and symptoms tell you that they're "gone?"

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/04-08-front-lower-control-arm-bushing-failure-please-read-look-707888/

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

I always wondered if this is what leads to the deterioration in overall comfort and ride quality and characteristics of older cars. When new the car was nice and sturdy feeling and tight. Over the years even with proper routine maintainance of suspension components it's not like new.

Maybe someone can chime in.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

I'm not only talking about the compliance bushings. I've replaced those under warranty several times and it didn't make much of difference for me atleast.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

There's a lot of bushings in the rear. There's a lot more arms, but I haven't seen those go out yet, they seem to be a lot more durable or they undergo less stress.

For the front, besides the lower control arm there aren't many other bushings. There's the front sway bar bushing but no one wants to change that one at home lol

There are other rubber pieces like motor mounts that wear out, and couple ball joints

robocam

Mine look like that, but an independent shop checked them out when they worked on my transmission at 122k miles, and they told me they're fine. I don't think the tears affect their performance.

Haha, I had my sway bar bushings changed out when the transmission was being worked on (nothing wrong with them though). They only charged me for the parts ($6 each I think). The engine mount was also bad and was replaced. I was at 122k miles.

98vtec

you cant expect one set of bushings to fix a "poor" ride quality on a high mileage vehicle. take my 92 Civic for example. 221k miles on it and the bushings were worn slap out. i replaced every single suspension bushing on it and it made all the difference. HardRace made the kit for the civic along with other companies like Skunk2 were i got front upper and rear lower control arms.

it doesnt matter if the bushings aren't torn or damaged, per sae. They all wear out and allow the pin to sag allowing more movement/travel.

I dont believe i could bare to have a full metal spherical bushings. But i wouldnt mind hearing more reviews than what is on their page.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

This is a great thread. I would like to know all the bushings in the car that could be changed and could restore like new ride quality and feel.

For example in colder climates I feel the car is tighter and stiffer and nice compared to when weather is warmer outside. Then I feel the ride is more floaty and loose. I am going to go out on a limb and say this is due to compliance of the rubber bushings due to temperature change which makes
logical sense.

I really think its the subframe bushings that need to be changed to restore the ride I'm talking about it.

twigglius

iTrader: (6)

I ordered and have received the three front bushings as well as rear bushings. I'm also replacing my rear trailing and control arms with ingalls. My car feels sloppy even with new coilovers... Its got to bebtje bushings. I hope. Car has 125k on it.

twigglius

iTrader: (6)

I'll put up a parts list later. I also ordered all new nuts bolts and washers since those were not that expensive.

CL9 Jon

Just buy complete replacement front LCA's... they're $60-70/shipped ea. Where as if you buy the bushings, they're ~$60/shipped. Then you have to take the time and or pay labor to have them pressed out and new one back in...

I just had this done on my '06 TSX

Bought new LCA's off of Rock Auto .com

0utl

I am about to replace all of my bushings as well and was going to use the 07-08 Compliance Bushings on my 04-06. I have heard the 07-08 are softer but are they less prone to cracking is that why Acura made them softer?

Is this a good idea or should I just use the 04-06? I will be putting in type S shocks at the same time too.

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

I know what you mean about the car being stiffer in cold weather compared to warmer weather. I felt this too when I had my RSX-S. I always thought it was just the shocks due to the weather.

My compliance bushings have the slight crack that's considered "normal" for them and have been that way for the past 2 years with no change, no issues with ride in city and highway driving. My '04 TL currently has 97600 miles.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know if there are bushings in the subframes that participate in ride quality?

96SC4

the complete LCA's on the TL are more than $70....

cokorote

iTrader: (1)

Great thread. I know this is about bushing but I changed the raxle and new shock and that make all the difference on ride quality on TL. It was like brand new car and "nice and sturdy feeling or tight". But I'm going to change the LCA bushing to the aftermarket one when the oem get cracked badly.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Looks like this beast hasn't been slain. The TL lasts, so maybe there's a fix. My wife's 2013 RAV4 has a tighter ride than my 2006, 156k mile TL.

All said and told, it looks like we're at $450 for parts alone if we go HAM on the issue.

As of this point in time, here's where I'm thinking the culprits lie, and I'm contemplating whether or not I bite the bullet and do it. Let's assume (a) The tires are in good shape, (b) alignment is in spec, (c) wheels are not out-of-round, and (d) suspension is in good, working order

I could completely be talking out of my ass, but this is a thread for generating ideas, so let's keep it constructive

SUSPECTED ROOT CAUSES
1.) Fatigued / oxidized rubber bushings (all)
2.) Fatigue of mechanical fasteners (mild elongation)
3.) Disposition of nut / bolt head from original fastened position
4.) Improper torque value on fasntener

ORDER of OPERATIONS
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
1.) Compliance Bushing (51394-SEP-A01) - $28
2.) Front Arm Lower Bushing (51393-SEP-A01) - $22
3.) Shock Absorber Bushing (51810-SDA-A01) - $16

SECONDARY ITEMS
4.) Front Stabilizer Link (51320-SDA-A05 / 51321-SDA-A05) - $16
5.) Upper Arm Assembly w/ Knuckle (51450-SEP-A02 / 51460-SEP-A02) - $55
6.) FSB Bushings (51306-SEP-A01) - $3
7.) Front Ball Joint, Lower (51220-SDA-A0) - $64

I think I'm going to shop around and see what labor would run on all of this...I just don't have the time to do it myself, but I think this should solve the problem?

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

At +150k, I can speak from experience that this is insufficient at this stage of wear.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Add $200.

twigglius

iTrader: (6)

I ordered all those bushings plus nuts, bolts and washers. I also ordered ingalls arms since my stock arms are seized... Check my thread for pics of the parts... I have more that should be here by Friday. Once I get them all I will upload everything in here as well.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Please keep us updated. And try to objectively ascertain the ride quality difference. I dont know how... but maybe there are others that can help with devising a way so its not just a subjective review.

CL9 Jon

They're $71.79 ea. for an '08 TL on Rock Auto .com

Tehvine

I would suggest adding new sway bar end links too. I was going to do the compliance bushings on my car before I sold it and noticed the end links were rather rusty. Fully expected to have to ruin one or more pieces of the hardware in the process.

CL9 Jon

Oh absolutely... end links threads are always ruined... just better off to buy/replace them.

twigglius

iTrader: (6)

Here is what I have so far.

51394-SEP-A01 - BUSH ASSY., FR. COMPLIANCE - $27.71 - x2

51393-SEP-A01 - BUSH, FR. ARM (LOWER) - $21.87 - x2

0181-S84-A00 - BOLT, TRAILING ARM (12X68) - $1.70 - x4

90215-SB0-003 - NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM) (SATO RASHI) - $0.84 - x2

90119-SEP-A00 - BOLT, FLANGE (14X100) - $4.11 - x2

90124-SEP-A01 - WASHER, PLAIN (14MM) - $1.91 - x8

90122-SEP-A00 - NUT, FLANGE (14MM) - $1.33 - x2

90123-SEP-A01 - WASHER, PLAIN (12MM) - $0.64 - x4

90181-S84-A00 - BOLT (12X68) - $1.70 - x4

90215-SB0-003 - NUT (12MM) - $0.84 - x2

90119-SEP-A00 - BOLT, FLG (14X) - $4.11 - x2

90122-SEP-A00 - NUT, FLANGE - $1.33 - x2

I have an additional list of parts I decided to order today. Will post that tomorrow. Left the list in my car.

J2008navTL

This gives me a better idea of what to expect but I only have 67k on my 08tl.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

OP, if you want to start doing ball joints too, there's outer tie rods and inner tie rods.

i dont know if i would trust mevotech's bushings....I would definitely prefer OEM

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

keeping an eye on this. I'm about to do shocks and I'm all for "while I'm at its"

Scottwax

Replaced worn LCA bushings with Moog and upgraded to the solid TL Type S front anti-roll bar. Front end feels noticeably tighter. Was a little jittery on on off ramp near me, now it tracks straight through it. FWIW, I had a little over 150k miles on my car and front struts were replaced about 30k miles ago.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

ORDER of OPERATIONS, UPDATED..APPROX. +$600
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
1.) Compliance Bushing (51394-SEP-A01) - $28
2.) Front Arm Lower Bushing (51393-SEP-A01) - $22
3.) Shock Absorber Bushing (51810-SDA-A01) - $16

SECONDARY ITEMS
4.) Front Stabilizer Link (51320-SDA-A05 / 51321-SDA-A05) - $16
5.) Upper Arm Assembly w/ Knuckle (51450-SEP-A02 / 51460-SEP-A02) - $55
6.) FSB Bushings (51306-SEP-A01) - $3
7.) Front Ball Joint, Lower (51220-SDA-A0) - $64
8.) Outer Tie Rod (53540-SEP-A02) - $40
9.) Inner Tie Rod (53010-DSA-A01) - $51
10.) Gearbox Mounting Bushing (53685-SEP-A01) - $6 x 2

I think I'm going to shop around and see what labor would run on all of this...I just don't have the time to do it myself, but I think this should solve the problem?

CL9 Jon

Why do you say that? Yes, OEM is indeed preferred for most. But the prices are a joke and the performace is the same as Moog/Mevotech

If you're doing all that might as well do wheel bearings too since they'll be taking the axles out of the hub to do the balljoints.

My labor for just swapping my LCA's, endlinks, and (1) ball joint was $125... @ $55/hr

cokorote

iTrader: (1)

What about the top hat?? Aren't they part of bushing? I replaced the base top hat with type s when I changed the shock.

0utl

Buy with Acurapartsforless there prices are the cheapest i found online and i saved over $40 and even up to $60 compared to some places with my order. I just purchased The parts 1,2,3, and 7 from your list & compared to your prices just adding it up would save you almost $20. Not much but it will add up. Like Part 8: 53540-SEP-A02 is $33 and you will need 2 so that is another 14$ hope this helped your wallet! They also had the lowest shipping cost!

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

I really think the subframe bushings are what's causing the sloppy deterioration in ride quality. I've had almost all these parts replaced and didn't do much.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Seriously? Can you elaborate? I'd expect to have a much more pronounced effect. Mileage? Thanks for the feedback.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Current mileage is 123k. Over a span of 3 year or 20k miles I changed the following:

1. Both Lower Control Arms
2. Inner and Outter Tie Rods
3. Steering Rack
4. All 3 Engine Mounts
5. Sway Bar Endlinks
6. Sway Bar Bushings.
7. Replaced to TYPE S Suspension Top Hats and Bushings for Suspension
8 Replaced both Upper Control Arms
9. All 3 Transmission Mounts

All of this was done at Acura with OEM parts in order to fix the loose feeling which it really never did. It felt like it did for a day or two but then it was evident it didn't (placebo effect). Then when my transmission took a dump and they replaced it, I felt almost instantly my car gained 30% of its stiffness back. The only thing they changed at this time was the transmission and nothing else.

The only theory I could come with is that they dropped the subframe and when they mounted it back up all the bolts were re-torqued and tightened and hence eliminating the flex in the body and holding all the other parts listed above in place as well. However fast forward 7 months later and its now starting to feel loose again. This is why I think the issue is surrounding the subframe rather than all these other components.

The entire engine is mounted and sits on the subframe. If the subframe bushings have more play in it, this could cause the body to flex more during driving as the weight of the engine is not be supported firmly and cause body roll and sway. Keep in mind the engine mounts would be normal and good. I could be totally wrong but this but this is my theory.

CL9 Jon

Those don't exist