Is High-Temp Paint necessary to do engine covers?
08-09-2012, 10:11 PM
#1
S.3.A
Thread Starter
Is High-Temp Paint necessary to do engine covers?
I was planning to paint my engine covers and I saw the Krylon Fusion spraypaint at Wal-Mart advertised to adhere to plastic with no primer needed. However, I'm not sure what it's heat rating is as it doesn't say. Do I need to use a High-Temp paint to do the covers? I tried to find out through the other threads about painting engine covers and I see that most that state the type of paint they used did use high-temp engine paint. But is it necessary? I've had a tough time trying to find Orange High-Temp paint around me. Thanks in advance. 
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Undying Dreams (08-11-2012)
08-09-2012, 10:48 PM
#3
S.3.A
Thread Starter
Touché... Forgive me, I have not had to paint anything in my life so I'm not that knowledgable... So how should I go about using engine paint on the plastic covers? I've sort of researched it. If anybody has tips for any of the steps in the procedure I'd appreciate it.
-Clean (soap, hot water, brakleen?)
-Sand (300 then 600 grit?)
-Prime
-Base Coat
-Clear coat
Is that correct?
-Clean (soap, hot water, brakleen?)
-Sand (300 then 600 grit?)
-Prime
-Base Coat
-Clear coat
Is that correct?
08-09-2012, 10:49 PM
#4
Chapter Leader (Midwest Region)
You don't need to use "high temp paint". It is preferred but not necessary. You can use Krylon Fusion if you wanted to. Plastic starts to melt at about 200-220, just get something that is rated to those temps. I have seen people use color matched paint from their cars color.
08-09-2012, 10:54 PM
#5
S.3.A
Thread Starter
You don't need to use "high temp paint". It is preferred but not necessary. You can use Krylon Fusion if you wanted to. Plastic starts to melt at about 200-220, just get something that is rated to those temps. I have seen people use color matched paint from their cars color.
08-09-2012, 11:02 PM
#7
-Brandon
From what I understand, Engine Paint is the best for covers along with a high-heat primer to get a deep gloss. It will give you peace of mind since you know it can withstand the heat. Plus, I don't think sanding down the covers is necessary. Maybe someone else can chime in on that one.
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08-10-2012, 08:19 AM
#8
You don't need specific engine paint, its plastic. Just don't use cheap paint and the prepping must be thorough. Automotive 2 stage paint with a 2 part clear would be ideal. These covers are textured too. The texture will have a slight dulling effect on the gloss or luster, if you just prep and paint. To get a high gloss finish you'd have to apply high build primer and sand the covers smooth. A 'smooth as glass' high gloss finish could be a PITA to maintain under the hood.
I used Satin Black Krylon Fusion on my ATLP & TL-S exhaust tips and its held up fine for years.
I used Satin Black Krylon Fusion on my ATLP & TL-S exhaust tips and its held up fine for years.
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dubxrossd11 (08-10-2012)
08-10-2012, 11:55 PM
#9
In this picture the center cover was lightly sanded prior to priming. Then is was painted and finished with a light coat of clear coat gloss. You can see the difference in person.
The surrounding pieces are scum IMO and I'm going to redo them.
I did this for a comparison, and the clear coat makes a noticeable difference.
The surrounding pieces are scum IMO and I'm going to redo them.
I did this for a comparison, and the clear coat makes a noticeable difference.
08-11-2012, 07:29 AM
#10
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
I've seen Krylon Fusion used on radiator overflow bottles and it holds up for years, the plastics don't get as hot as the engine but at 200ish degrees underhood that's not crazy hot, it wouldn't hurt to go high temp but it's not like you're painting headers and it's gonna burn right off.
08-11-2012, 08:26 AM
#11
:what:
The panels you are painting are PLASTIC. PLASTIC itself cannot take high heat. High temp paint is totally not necessary.
I myself being an ex paint and body man that still does a ton of paint work as a hobby would NEVER put anything from a rattle can on my car or a customers car ever. I only use high quality paint and body materials. NOTHING matches the gloss and hold up of it. You will never get a quality exterior grade gloss shine out of a rattle can. You can buy the paint at your local body shop supplier/jobber in small quantities. The jobbers also sell refillable aerosol type cans that these paints can be sprayed with so that you don't have to buy expensive equipment.
Just remember, if you use these paints:
1. Wear a respirator. This is bad stuff.. (gloves are recommended also).
2. The two part Urethane single stage and clears are a chemical reaction dry...not air. Once you mix it the reaction starts, so you only have an limited amount of time to spray the product. So follow the directions on the can. Heat speeds up the chemical reaction, so keep that in mind if you are in a hot environment. Cold slows it down, so you can put your mixed paint in the fridge (not freezer) and it will keep for a day or two.
3. Have lacquer thinner on hand to clean up spills, messes, and equipment.
4. You will also need a flex additive, and an adhesion promoter. The adhesion promoter sprays directly on the panel after cleaning/sanding to ensure the primer will adhere. The flex additive gets mixed into the primer and paint to make it more flexible. Bulldog (by kleen strip) makes a dual purpose flex additive and adhesion promoter that works very well. Just follow instructions on the can.
I do this stuff all the time and have all the high dollar equipment. I would be willing to paint these professionally with an EXACT match or preferred custom color for a fee. PM me for pricing and details. My prices will be significantly lower than a body shop since I do this from my home shop and don't have the overhead of a full shop. Just ship me your parts. If you have a pearl paint, send me your fuel door or another painted panel so I can spray test panels to match and ensure I spray enough or not too much pearl. I use high quality Dupont, Valspar, and PPG materials that last! If you already have rattle can paint on these panels, don't waste my time untill they are stripped. You cannot spray true enamel or urethane over that crap. It will wrinkle up and look terrible.
If you have any questions or need tips to doing it yourself just ask. Its very rewarding to be able to say...."Yup, I did that myself."
I myself being an ex paint and body man that still does a ton of paint work as a hobby would NEVER put anything from a rattle can on my car or a customers car ever. I only use high quality paint and body materials. NOTHING matches the gloss and hold up of it. You will never get a quality exterior grade gloss shine out of a rattle can. You can buy the paint at your local body shop supplier/jobber in small quantities. The jobbers also sell refillable aerosol type cans that these paints can be sprayed with so that you don't have to buy expensive equipment.
Just remember, if you use these paints:
1. Wear a respirator. This is bad stuff.. (gloves are recommended also).
2. The two part Urethane single stage and clears are a chemical reaction dry...not air. Once you mix it the reaction starts, so you only have an limited amount of time to spray the product. So follow the directions on the can. Heat speeds up the chemical reaction, so keep that in mind if you are in a hot environment. Cold slows it down, so you can put your mixed paint in the fridge (not freezer) and it will keep for a day or two.
3. Have lacquer thinner on hand to clean up spills, messes, and equipment.
4. You will also need a flex additive, and an adhesion promoter. The adhesion promoter sprays directly on the panel after cleaning/sanding to ensure the primer will adhere. The flex additive gets mixed into the primer and paint to make it more flexible. Bulldog (by kleen strip) makes a dual purpose flex additive and adhesion promoter that works very well. Just follow instructions on the can.
I do this stuff all the time and have all the high dollar equipment. I would be willing to paint these professionally with an EXACT match or preferred custom color for a fee. PM me for pricing and details. My prices will be significantly lower than a body shop since I do this from my home shop and don't have the overhead of a full shop. Just ship me your parts. If you have a pearl paint, send me your fuel door or another painted panel so I can spray test panels to match and ensure I spray enough or not too much pearl. I use high quality Dupont, Valspar, and PPG materials that last! If you already have rattle can paint on these panels, don't waste my time untill they are stripped. You cannot spray true enamel or urethane over that crap. It will wrinkle up and look terrible.
If you have any questions or need tips to doing it yourself just ask. Its very rewarding to be able to say...."Yup, I did that myself."
08-11-2012, 08:33 AM
#12
Suzuka Master
just use high temp paint to be on the safe side.
11-11-2014, 03:27 AM
#13
1st Gear
Join Date: Nov 2014
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The panels you are painting are PLASTIC. PLASTIC itself cannot take high heat. High temp paint is totally not necessary.
I myself being an ex paint and body man that still does a ton of paint work as a hobby would NEVER put anything from a rattle can on my car or a customers car ever. I only use high quality paint and body materials. NOTHING matches the gloss and hold up of it. You will never get a quality exterior grade gloss shine out of a rattle can. You can buy the paint at your local body shop supplier/jobber in small quantities. The jobbers also sell refillable aerosol type cans that these paints can be sprayed with so that you don't have to buy expensive equipment.
Just remember, if you use these paints:
1. Wear a respirator. This is bad stuff.. (gloves are recommended also).
2. The two part Urethane single stage and clears are a chemical reaction dry...not air. Once you mix it the reaction starts, so you only have an limited amount of time to spray the product. So follow the directions on the can. Heat speeds up the chemical reaction, so keep that in mind if you are in a hot environment. Cold slows it down, so you can put your mixed paint in the fridge (not freezer) and it will keep for a day or two.
3. Have lacquer thinner on hand to clean up spills, messes, and equipment.
4. You will also need a flex additive, and an adhesion promoter. The adhesion promoter sprays directly on the panel after cleaning/sanding to ensure the primer will adhere. The flex additive gets mixed into the primer and paint to make it more flexible. Bulldog (by kleen strip) makes a dual purpose flex additive and adhesion promoter that works very well. Just follow instructions on the can.
I do this stuff all the time and have all the high dollar equipment. I would be willing to paint these professionally with an EXACT match or preferred custom color for a fee. PM me for pricing and details. My prices will be significantly lower than a body shop since I do this from my home shop and don't have the overhead of a full shop. Just ship me your parts. If you have a pearl paint, send me your fuel door or another painted panel so I can spray test panels to match and ensure I spray enough or not too much pearl. I use high quality Dupont, Valspar, and PPG materials that last! If you already have rattle can paint on these panels, don't waste my time untill they are stripped. You cannot spray true enamel or urethane over that crap. It will wrinkle up and look terrible.
If you have any questions or need tips to doing it yourself just ask. Its very rewarding to be able to say...."Yup, I did that myself."
I myself being an ex paint and body man that still does a ton of paint work as a hobby would NEVER put anything from a rattle can on my car or a customers car ever. I only use high quality paint and body materials. NOTHING matches the gloss and hold up of it. You will never get a quality exterior grade gloss shine out of a rattle can. You can buy the paint at your local body shop supplier/jobber in small quantities. The jobbers also sell refillable aerosol type cans that these paints can be sprayed with so that you don't have to buy expensive equipment.
Just remember, if you use these paints:
1. Wear a respirator. This is bad stuff.. (gloves are recommended also).
2. The two part Urethane single stage and clears are a chemical reaction dry...not air. Once you mix it the reaction starts, so you only have an limited amount of time to spray the product. So follow the directions on the can. Heat speeds up the chemical reaction, so keep that in mind if you are in a hot environment. Cold slows it down, so you can put your mixed paint in the fridge (not freezer) and it will keep for a day or two.
3. Have lacquer thinner on hand to clean up spills, messes, and equipment.
4. You will also need a flex additive, and an adhesion promoter. The adhesion promoter sprays directly on the panel after cleaning/sanding to ensure the primer will adhere. The flex additive gets mixed into the primer and paint to make it more flexible. Bulldog (by kleen strip) makes a dual purpose flex additive and adhesion promoter that works very well. Just follow instructions on the can.
I do this stuff all the time and have all the high dollar equipment. I would be willing to paint these professionally with an EXACT match or preferred custom color for a fee. PM me for pricing and details. My prices will be significantly lower than a body shop since I do this from my home shop and don't have the overhead of a full shop. Just ship me your parts. If you have a pearl paint, send me your fuel door or another painted panel so I can spray test panels to match and ensure I spray enough or not too much pearl. I use high quality Dupont, Valspar, and PPG materials that last! If you already have rattle can paint on these panels, don't waste my time untill they are stripped. You cannot spray true enamel or urethane over that crap. It will wrinkle up and look terrible.
If you have any questions or need tips to doing it yourself just ask. Its very rewarding to be able to say...."Yup, I did that myself."
11-11-2014, 12:09 PM
#15
Jeff
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...19cf4e6b61.jpg
Cleaned them up real good, sanded, primed em up, hung them up and sprayed them , can't remember how many coats. 2-3. then just loaded the clear coat on lol
Cleaned them up real good, sanded, primed em up, hung them up and sprayed them , can't remember how many coats. 2-3. then just loaded the clear coat on lol
11-11-2014, 12:15 PM
#16
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
I painted my valve covers with high heat primer, then duplicolor perfect match, then high heat clear.
Holds up nice.
Holds up nice.
08-21-2017, 01:30 PM
#17
1st Gear
Join Date: Aug 2017
Age: 69
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Lotus Elise covers
I have a 2005 Lotus Elise and want engine covers painted caliper red with black lettering.
what would you charge?
what would you charge?
I myself being an ex paint and body man that still does a ton of paint work as a hobby would NEVER put anything from a rattle can on my car or a customers car ever. I only use high quality paint and body materials. NOTHING matches the gloss and hold up of it. You will never get a quality exterior grade gloss shine out of a rattle can. You can buy the paint at your local body shop supplier/jobber in small quantities. The jobbers also sell refillable aerosol type cans that these paints can be sprayed with so that you don't have to buy expensive equipment.
Just remember, if you use these paints:
1. Wear a respirator. This is bad stuff.. (gloves are recommended also).
2. The two part Urethane single stage and clears are a chemical reaction dry...not air. Once you mix it the reaction starts, so you only have an limited amount of time to spray the product. So follow the directions on the can. Heat speeds up the chemical reaction, so keep that in mind if you are in a hot environment. Cold slows it down, so you can put your mixed paint in the fridge (not freezer) and it will keep for a day or two.
3. Have lacquer thinner on hand to clean up spills, messes, and equipment.
4. You will also need a flex additive, and an adhesion promoter. The adhesion promoter sprays directly on the panel after cleaning/sanding to ensure the primer will adhere. The flex additive gets mixed into the primer and paint to make it more flexible. Bulldog (by kleen strip) makes a dual purpose flex additive and adhesion promoter that works very well. Just follow instructions on the can.
I do this stuff all the time and have all the high dollar equipment. I would be willing to paint these professionally with an EXACT match or preferred custom color for a fee. PM me for pricing and details. My prices will be significantly lower than a body shop since I do this from my home shop and don't have the overhead of a full shop. Just ship me your parts. If you have a pearl paint, send me your fuel door or another painted panel so I can spray test panels to match and ensure I spray enough or not too much pearl. I use high quality Dupont, Valspar, and PPG materials that last! If you already have rattle can paint on these panels, don't waste my time untill they are stripped. You cannot spray true enamel or urethane over that crap. It will wrinkle up and look terrible.
If you have any questions or need tips to doing it yourself just ask. Its very rewarding to be able to say...."Yup, I did that myself."
Just remember, if you use these paints:
1. Wear a respirator. This is bad stuff.. (gloves are recommended also).
2. The two part Urethane single stage and clears are a chemical reaction dry...not air. Once you mix it the reaction starts, so you only have an limited amount of time to spray the product. So follow the directions on the can. Heat speeds up the chemical reaction, so keep that in mind if you are in a hot environment. Cold slows it down, so you can put your mixed paint in the fridge (not freezer) and it will keep for a day or two.
3. Have lacquer thinner on hand to clean up spills, messes, and equipment.
4. You will also need a flex additive, and an adhesion promoter. The adhesion promoter sprays directly on the panel after cleaning/sanding to ensure the primer will adhere. The flex additive gets mixed into the primer and paint to make it more flexible. Bulldog (by kleen strip) makes a dual purpose flex additive and adhesion promoter that works very well. Just follow instructions on the can.
I do this stuff all the time and have all the high dollar equipment. I would be willing to paint these professionally with an EXACT match or preferred custom color for a fee. PM me for pricing and details. My prices will be significantly lower than a body shop since I do this from my home shop and don't have the overhead of a full shop. Just ship me your parts. If you have a pearl paint, send me your fuel door or another painted panel so I can spray test panels to match and ensure I spray enough or not too much pearl. I use high quality Dupont, Valspar, and PPG materials that last! If you already have rattle can paint on these panels, don't waste my time untill they are stripped. You cannot spray true enamel or urethane over that crap. It will wrinkle up and look terrible.
If you have any questions or need tips to doing it yourself just ask. Its very rewarding to be able to say...."Yup, I did that myself."
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