Great ways of weight reduction while maintaining practicality
10-09-2017, 04:31 PM
#1
Great ways of weight reduction while maintaining practicality
I am looking for ways that I can reduce the weight of my car to increase speed while keeping the practicality of a daily driver but all I can think of at the moment is removing the carpet molding from the trunk and purchasing more sporty tires. I am alsoaware of the throttle wire hack and how tightening it can make the car faster. Does any care to share with me other parts that I can remove to reduce the weight but not take away from the car's practicality? Yes I know that obviously I will be sacrificing some weight reduction for practicality.
10-09-2017, 04:41 PM
#2
Drifting
There is a stupidly huge thread that discusses this in extremely great detail. I believe it is call the TL Diet or something to that extent. Defining what is considered practical is what will be a challenge. Some guys are rolling around with only 1 seat, no interior panels, and no bumper cores. All of which I do not find as being practical.
10-09-2017, 04:45 PM
#3
Drifting
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This thread has just about every item that can be removed while still allowing the car to move 
Many of them are NOT practical. But many are:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...st-1-a-610974/
I did the "TL diet" to a pretty intense level when I had mine. Not as much as Inaccurate (the thread author) but probably around 80%.
Probably the most practical modifications would be:
1. Spare tire and jack removal - Lots of weight. 30+ lbs.
2. Lightweight wheels - Huge difference because they're also unsprung rotating mass which compounds more than normal static weight. This is usually expensive though. A good set of lightweight wheels will probably run between $250-$400 per wheel depending on brand and diameter. Tirerack is probably the best resource in my opinion since they have weight data on all their wheels.
3. Plastic engine trim. That stuff is stupid anyways.
4. Front and Rear bumper reinforcements. The safety of this mod is debatable but each one weighs about 16 lbs. These are the steel bars that run under the bumper. What I can tell you is that I got in a pretty serious front end collision with mine removed, and while it probably resulted in damage to the radiator that may not have occurred, it didn't jeopardize my safety at all.
Many of them are NOT practical. But many are:https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...st-1-a-610974/
I did the "TL diet" to a pretty intense level when I had mine. Not as much as Inaccurate (the thread author) but probably around 80%.
Probably the most practical modifications would be:
1. Spare tire and jack removal - Lots of weight. 30+ lbs.
2. Lightweight wheels - Huge difference because they're also unsprung rotating mass which compounds more than normal static weight. This is usually expensive though. A good set of lightweight wheels will probably run between $250-$400 per wheel depending on brand and diameter. Tirerack is probably the best resource in my opinion since they have weight data on all their wheels.
3. Plastic engine trim. That stuff is stupid anyways.
4. Front and Rear bumper reinforcements. The safety of this mod is debatable but each one weighs about 16 lbs. These are the steel bars that run under the bumper. What I can tell you is that I got in a pretty serious front end collision with mine removed, and while it probably resulted in damage to the radiator that may not have occurred, it didn't jeopardize my safety at all.
10-10-2017, 02:18 AM
#4
This thread has just about every item that can be removed while still allowing the car to move Many of them are NOT practical. But many are:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...st-1-a-610974/
I did the "TL diet" to a pretty intense level when I had mine. Not as much as Inaccurate (the thread author) but probably around 80%.
Probably the most practical modifications would be:
1. Spare tire and jack removal - Lots of weight. 30+ lbs.
2. Lightweight wheels - Huge difference because they're also unsprung rotating mass which compounds more than normal static weight. This is usually expensive though. A good set of lightweight wheels will probably run between $250-$400 per wheel depending on brand and diameter. Tirerack is probably the best resource in my opinion since they have weight data on all their wheels.
3. Plastic engine trim. That stuff is stupid anyways.
4. Front and Rear bumper reinforcements. The safety of this mod is debatable but each one weighs about 16 lbs. These are the steel bars that run under the bumper. What I can tell you is that I got in a pretty serious front end collision with mine removed, and while it probably resulted in damage to the radiator that may not have occurred, it didn't jeopardize my safety at all.
Many of them are NOT practical. But many are:https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...st-1-a-610974/
I did the "TL diet" to a pretty intense level when I had mine. Not as much as Inaccurate (the thread author) but probably around 80%.
Probably the most practical modifications would be:
1. Spare tire and jack removal - Lots of weight. 30+ lbs.
2. Lightweight wheels - Huge difference because they're also unsprung rotating mass which compounds more than normal static weight. This is usually expensive though. A good set of lightweight wheels will probably run between $250-$400 per wheel depending on brand and diameter. Tirerack is probably the best resource in my opinion since they have weight data on all their wheels.
3. Plastic engine trim. That stuff is stupid anyways.
4. Front and Rear bumper reinforcements. The safety of this mod is debatable but each one weighs about 16 lbs. These are the steel bars that run under the bumper. What I can tell you is that I got in a pretty serious front end collision with mine removed, and while it probably resulted in damage to the radiator that may not have occurred, it didn't jeopardize my safety at all.
10-10-2017, 06:28 AM
#5
So with removing these bars one would hope that they themselves are safe and no serious damage to the engine is caused when an accident occurs if these are removed. How exactly would I remove these reinforcement bars from underneath the bumper, like would a auto body shop be willing do it for me?
the bumper beams are actually 5MPH bumper beams. ANY impact 5MPH and under, the beam will take the brunt of the impact. Anything OVER 5MPH and the beam in question is out of play.
it's pretty easy to remove.
- remove front bumper
- 4 bolts, 2 on each side hold the beam in place. take them off and the beam comes right off the front!
Same thing for the Rear.
- Remove Rear bumper
- 4 bolts hold the beam in place.
10-10-2017, 06:31 AM
#6
there are tons of anchors that supress noise and vibration all throughout the car.
there is one in the trunk.
there is 2 on the front end of the car if you are automatic.
and there are a couple of steel plates in the glove box.
Remove all this stuff.
and read the "MASTER WEIGHT LOSS" thread, foo!!
there is one in the trunk.
there is 2 on the front end of the car if you are automatic.
and there are a couple of steel plates in the glove box.
Remove all this stuff.
and read the "MASTER WEIGHT LOSS" thread, foo!!
10-10-2017, 08:28 AM
#7
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
As others mentioned,
The holy Grail of weight reduction thread was provided. A lot of time and research was done by OP and other contributing members in that same thread. Highly suggest the time taken to go through the entire thread. Before I get into the performance aspect of the TL, I'm against anything that has to do with removing any safety equipment and or body structures.
Now since we are on topic about weight reduction. The basic rule of thumb is every 100 LBS less, the vehicle is 1/10 of a second quicker. There's a ton of variables with this, but this rule is pretty spot on. So, if you're looking to free up weight to make the vehicle quicker, you will need to understand how the TL performs in 1/4 mile runs and dyno tests. Again, lots of variables here but in short,
1. 04-08 Base automatic (Lowest)
2. 04-06 6MT (Better)
3.. 07-08 Type-s Automatic (Better)
4. 07-08 Type-s 6MT. (Best)
Listed above, from worse to best performance in Stock VS. Modified dyno proven numbers and $$ VS. Gains. So, figuring what you have before gutting the vehicle, what is your overall goal? The TL isn't a fast car and the amount of $$ needed to make it perform on the same level as what's on the market today, isn't worth the time or money. If you want more performance, I would suggest doing other things like exhaust work and reducing under hood temps. At the end of the day, it's your vehicle and your decision to do what you please. I tell most members, that this generation TL is still the worse $$$ Spent VS. Proven gains. Unless you go F/I and do serious work, the TL will still feel slow.
The holy Grail of weight reduction thread was provided. A lot of time and research was done by OP and other contributing members in that same thread. Highly suggest the time taken to go through the entire thread. Before I get into the performance aspect of the TL, I'm against anything that has to do with removing any safety equipment and or body structures.
Now since we are on topic about weight reduction. The basic rule of thumb is every 100 LBS less, the vehicle is 1/10 of a second quicker. There's a ton of variables with this, but this rule is pretty spot on. So, if you're looking to free up weight to make the vehicle quicker, you will need to understand how the TL performs in 1/4 mile runs and dyno tests. Again, lots of variables here but in short,
1. 04-08 Base automatic (Lowest)
2. 04-06 6MT (Better)
3.. 07-08 Type-s Automatic (Better)
4. 07-08 Type-s 6MT. (Best)
Listed above, from worse to best performance in Stock VS. Modified dyno proven numbers and $$ VS. Gains. So, figuring what you have before gutting the vehicle, what is your overall goal? The TL isn't a fast car and the amount of $$ needed to make it perform on the same level as what's on the market today, isn't worth the time or money. If you want more performance, I would suggest doing other things like exhaust work and reducing under hood temps. At the end of the day, it's your vehicle and your decision to do what you please. I tell most members, that this generation TL is still the worse $$$ Spent VS. Proven gains. Unless you go F/I and do serious work, the TL will still feel slow.
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10-10-2017, 08:36 AM
#8
Senior Moderator
Go hit the gym and cut out the fast food. Eat more greens and less red meat. That's a good diet
10-10-2017, 08:40 AM
#9
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in mexico, I'm quicker than an auto type-s. In Every Gear.
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horseshoez (10-10-2017)
10-10-2017, 08:57 AM
#11
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
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I've had one personal experience with the Type-s automatic. A childhood friend bought a Type-s a few years ago, we were on the highway and did two runs from 30 to 70. This was before I was boosted.. I had only a few things done (J-pipe, intake and comptech exhaust), he had an intake with a resonator delete. I pulled about a car ahead of him on both runs. If we were both stock, it comes down to the driver. You're talking about 2/10 of a second difference. It's a joke really.
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horseshoez (10-10-2017)
10-10-2017, 09:13 AM
#12
Go through the thread foo!!!
the bumper beams are actually 5MPH bumper beams. ANY impact 5MPH and under, the beam will take the brunt of the impact. Anything OVER 5MPH and the beam in question is out of play.
it's pretty easy to remove.
- remove front bumper
- 4 bolts, 2 on each side hold the beam in place. take them off and the beam comes right off the front!
Same thing for the Rear.
- Remove Rear bumper
- 4 bolts hold the beam in place.
the bumper beams are actually 5MPH bumper beams. ANY impact 5MPH and under, the beam will take the brunt of the impact. Anything OVER 5MPH and the beam in question is out of play.
it's pretty easy to remove.
- remove front bumper
- 4 bolts, 2 on each side hold the beam in place. take them off and the beam comes right off the front!
Same thing for the Rear.
- Remove Rear bumper
- 4 bolts hold the beam in place.
10-10-2017, 09:44 AM
#14
10-10-2017, 10:20 AM
#15
Senior Moderator
yes
10-10-2017, 10:35 AM
#16
As others mentioned,
The holy Grail of weight reduction thread was provided. A lot of time and research was done by OP and other contributing members in that same thread. Highly suggest the time taken to go through the entire thread. Before I get into the performance aspect of the TL, I'm against anything that has to do with removing any safety equipment and or body structures.
Now since we are on topic about weight reduction. The basic rule of thumb is every 100 LBS less, the vehicle is 1/10 of a second quicker. There's a ton of variables with this, but this rule is pretty spot on. So, if you're looking to free up weight to make the vehicle quicker, you will need to understand how the TL performs in 1/4 mile runs and dyno tests. Again, lots of variables here but in short,
1. 04-08 Base automatic (Lowest)
2. 04-06 6MT (Better)
3.. 07-08 Type-s Automatic (Better)
4. 07-08 Type-s 6MT. (Best)
Listed above, from worse to best performance in Stock VS. Modified dyno proven numbers and $$ VS. Gains. So, figuring what you have before gutting the vehicle, what is your overall goal? The TL isn't a fast car and the amount of $$ needed to make it perform on the same level as what's on the market today, isn't worth the time or money. If you want more performance, I would suggest doing other things like exhaust work and reducing under hood temps. At the end of the day, it's your vehicle and your decision to do what you please. I tell most members, that this generation TL is still the worse $$$ Spent VS. Proven gains. Unless you go F/I and do serious work, the TL will still feel slow.
The holy Grail of weight reduction thread was provided. A lot of time and research was done by OP and other contributing members in that same thread. Highly suggest the time taken to go through the entire thread. Before I get into the performance aspect of the TL, I'm against anything that has to do with removing any safety equipment and or body structures.
Now since we are on topic about weight reduction. The basic rule of thumb is every 100 LBS less, the vehicle is 1/10 of a second quicker. There's a ton of variables with this, but this rule is pretty spot on. So, if you're looking to free up weight to make the vehicle quicker, you will need to understand how the TL performs in 1/4 mile runs and dyno tests. Again, lots of variables here but in short,
1. 04-08 Base automatic (Lowest)
2. 04-06 6MT (Better)
3.. 07-08 Type-s Automatic (Better)
4. 07-08 Type-s 6MT. (Best)
Listed above, from worse to best performance in Stock VS. Modified dyno proven numbers and $$ VS. Gains. So, figuring what you have before gutting the vehicle, what is your overall goal? The TL isn't a fast car and the amount of $$ needed to make it perform on the same level as what's on the market today, isn't worth the time or money. If you want more performance, I would suggest doing other things like exhaust work and reducing under hood temps. At the end of the day, it's your vehicle and your decision to do what you please. I tell most members, that this generation TL is still the worse $$$ Spent VS. Proven gains. Unless you go F/I and do serious work, the TL will still feel slow.
10-10-2017, 10:35 AM
#17
Senior Moderator
What year is your car? Also what "throttle wire hack" are you speaking of?
10-10-2017, 11:49 AM
#18
Drifting
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Yeah, loose some weight. There's motivation to become healthier 
I dropped about 600 lbs. from my TL and it really transformed it. But I went too far IMO. The car wasn't really a comfortable luxury car after that. Removing the insulation resulted in more noise, the racing seats weren't heated, adjustable or as comfortable as the factory seats, and putting things in the trunk with all the trim removed was kind of screwy. Not to mention the trunk popping up violently since I removed the trim and reinforcement and a perpetual CEL from removing the evaporative emissions system and EGR. I've dropped weight from my 4G but nothing to the extent of my 3G.
I dropped about 600 lbs. from my TL and it really transformed it. But I went too far IMO. The car wasn't really a comfortable luxury car after that. Removing the insulation resulted in more noise, the racing seats weren't heated, adjustable or as comfortable as the factory seats, and putting things in the trunk with all the trim removed was kind of screwy. Not to mention the trunk popping up violently since I removed the trim and reinforcement and a perpetual CEL from removing the evaporative emissions system and EGR. I've dropped weight from my 4G but nothing to the extent of my 3G.
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justnspace (10-10-2017)
10-10-2017, 12:11 PM
#23
Senior Moderator
shitty AT transmission
10-10-2017, 12:20 PM
#25
Senior Moderator
10-10-2017, 12:23 PM
#26
Its an 05' I've stated it on 3 other threads and with the throttle wire "hack" I was talking about making the wire more firm which tends to make the car faster. I don't know, I guess hack probably isn't the best term to describe this tweek.
Last edited by jkilla369; 10-10-2017 at 12:26 PM.
10-10-2017, 12:25 PM
#27
Senior Moderator
Sounds like all that does is increase throttle response, not necessarily 'making a car faster'
10-10-2017, 12:48 PM
#29
ALL the info is here; you just gotta pick and choose which mods you want to do.
I've spent stupid amounts of money on my car and in the end, it doesnt really matter because these new cars that come out have as much or MORE power than the TL does.
we're talking about a turbocharged 18' Accord with 273lbs of torque at 1500 RPM.
10-10-2017, 12:58 PM
#30
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Hmmm, I've been under the impression our cars were "Drive By Wire", if true, then shortening the wire won't do diddly; that said, if the 3G TL does in fact use a cable operate throttle assembly, then no, shortening the cable won't do anything to make the car faster. Think about it, unless the OEM cable isn't capable of opening the throttle to WOT, then WOT is WOT regardless of the length of the cable.
10-10-2017, 01:09 PM
#31
Unless you want to gut your car, it's not worth the time. Even gutted it's not worth the time and effort. If you're dead set on doing weight reduction, you'll get the most return by reducing unsprung weight. Get light weight wheel/tire combo and the lightest rotors you can source. A decent set of both will cost you, so again, not worth it.
10-10-2017, 02:28 PM
#32
10-10-2017, 02:42 PM
#33
Senior Moderator
Hmmm, I've been under the impression our cars were "Drive By Wire", if true, then shortening the wire won't do diddly; that said, if the 3G TL does in fact use a cable operate throttle assembly, then no, shortening the cable won't do anything to make the car faster. Think about it, unless the OEM cable isn't capable of opening the throttle to WOT, then WOT is WOT regardless of the length of the cable.
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horseshoez (10-10-2017)
10-10-2017, 04:39 PM
#34
Advanced
there are tons of anchors that supress noise and vibration all throughout the car.
there is one in the trunk.
there is 2 on the front end of the car if you are automatic.
and there are a couple of steel plates in the glove box.
Remove all this stuff.
and read the "MASTER WEIGHT LOSS" thread, foo!!
there is one in the trunk.
there is 2 on the front end of the car if you are automatic.
and there are a couple of steel plates in the glove box.
Remove all this stuff.
and read the "MASTER WEIGHT LOSS" thread, foo!!
Also, I've already removed all of my cars nifty boat anchors but i'm looking for more weight savings for mpg's on my hilly commute, would removing the bumper crash supports effect the structural rigidity of the car? Thinking it wouldn't be an issue because of the OEM strut bar.
10-10-2017, 04:59 PM
#36
Drifting
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I haven't heard of the steel plates in the glove box? like built into the glove box?!?! Also, I've already removed all of my cars nifty boat anchors but i'm looking for more weight savings for mpg's on my hilly commute, would removing the bumper crash supports effect the structural rigidity of the car? Thinking it wouldn't be an issue because of the OEM strut bar.
Also, I've already removed all of my cars nifty boat anchors but i'm looking for more weight savings for mpg's on my hilly commute, would removing the bumper crash supports effect the structural rigidity of the car? Thinking it wouldn't be an issue because of the OEM strut bar.But yeah, you're starting to split hairs when you get to that point. Inaccurate, the TL Diet thread author, went pretty crazy. Little things add up though. Personally, I'm largely with michealmottiff now-a-days. I don't do a lot of altering. Buuuuuut, sometimes it's tempting to remove a hundred lbs. or so if it's easy. I personally have deleted both bumper reinforcements, removed the spare tire and jack, removed all engine panels and put on lightweight wheels. I've also swapped out the J-Pipe and went with high flow pre-cats from RV6, both of which are lighter than stock. And installed the lightweight crank pulley. All in all, it's about 150lbs, not accounting for unsprung weight as well as circulating mass which is compounded more than static mass. It's most certainly made a difference both to acceleration as well as handling. I have no plans to go any further however.
10-10-2017, 05:12 PM
#37
Advanced
Yeah, there's a metal plate that weighs 3-4 lbs. in the glove box panel. I'm not sure why it's there. There isn't one in the 4G.
But yeah, you're starting to split hairs when you get to that point. Inaccurate, the TL Diet thread author, went pretty crazy. Little things add up though. Personally, I'm largely with michealmottiff now-a-days. I don't do a lot of altering. Buuuuuut, sometimes it's tempting to remove a hundred lbs. or so if it's easy. I personally have deleted both bumper reinforcements, removed the spare tire and jack, removed all engine panels and put on lightweight wheels. I've also swapped out the J-Pipe and went with high flow pre-cats from RV6, both of which are lighter than stock. And installed the lightweight crank pulley. All in all, it's about 150lbs, not accounting for unsprung weight as well as circulating mass which is compounded more than static mass. It's most certainly made a difference both to acceleration as well as handling. I have no plans to go any further however.
But yeah, you're starting to split hairs when you get to that point. Inaccurate, the TL Diet thread author, went pretty crazy. Little things add up though. Personally, I'm largely with michealmottiff now-a-days. I don't do a lot of altering. Buuuuuut, sometimes it's tempting to remove a hundred lbs. or so if it's easy. I personally have deleted both bumper reinforcements, removed the spare tire and jack, removed all engine panels and put on lightweight wheels. I've also swapped out the J-Pipe and went with high flow pre-cats from RV6, both of which are lighter than stock. And installed the lightweight crank pulley. All in all, it's about 150lbs, not accounting for unsprung weight as well as circulating mass which is compounded more than static mass. It's most certainly made a difference both to acceleration as well as handling. I have no plans to go any further however.
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justnspace (10-10-2017)
10-11-2017, 08:51 AM
#39
Drifting
Hmmm, I've been under the impression our cars were "Drive By Wire", if true, then shortening the wire won't do diddly; that said, if the 3G TL does in fact use a cable operate throttle assembly, then no, shortening the cable won't do anything to make the car faster. Think about it, unless the OEM cable isn't capable of opening the throttle to WOT, then WOT is WOT regardless of the length of the cable.
10-11-2017, 09:07 AM
#40
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The TL is technically a Drive By Wire setup. There is no hard connection from the pedal to the throttle body...that is all electronic. However, there is a long cable from the pedal out into the engine bay to the APP sensor. There has been some discussion about the cable slack causing some issues...which are mostly related to throttle response...however if that cable did have enough slack in it, I could see it being possible that you may not achieve WOT.