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G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS

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G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS

 
Old 06-27-2011, 11:18 PM
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I'm running switchbacks from autolumination and my rear signals from V-LEDs. Hopefully the switchbacks have similar resistance as the ones from V-LEDs.
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:59 PM
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If anyone tries to solder two 0.12 ohms in the meantime let me know... I'm curious as RO if that will work! I believe the factory bulbs pull 21W from the front corners.. I'm not sure what the rears pull I'd just be guessing that they would be 21W as well...

My current LEDs I posted above have 2.5W at rear corners and not sure what the V-LED switchbacks pull... I did order some high power 7W corner lights from V-LEDs to replace my switchabacks... So to make short story long, I'll eventually have 7W in front two corners and 2.5W on rear corners.

Roger, I'm not sure what formula you used... But are those numbers helpful at all? Sorry I couldn't research the exact power pull of the factory lights as I am out of town still...

Kirk
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TL_85 View Post
If anyone tries to solder two 0.12 ohms in the meantime let me know... I'm curious as RO if that will work! I believe the factory bulbs pull 21W from the front corners.. I'm not sure what the rears pull I'd just be guessing that they would be 21W as well...

My current LEDs I posted above have 2.5W at rear corners and not sure what the V-LED switchbacks pull... I did order some high power 7W corner lights from V-LEDs to replace my switchabacks... So to make short story long, I'll eventually have 7W in front two corners and 2.5W on rear corners.

Roger, I'm not sure what formula you used... But are those numbers helpful at all? Sorry I couldn't research the exact power pull of the factory lights as I am out of town still...

Kirk
This worked for Mafyoso (and maybe others), but has not worked for me and others.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:58 PM
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Sorry, I left out an important word.... I meant 2 resistors in series to increase resistance to 0.24 not decrease it to 0.06 ohms ... No clue if it would work but Roger had suggested it, was curious if anyone had tried that yet...
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:31 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by TL_85 View Post
If anyone tries to solder two 0.12 ohms in the meantime let me know... I'm curious as RO if that will work! I believe the factory bulbs pull 21W from the front corners.. I'm not sure what the rears pull I'd just be guessing that they would be 21W as well...

My current LEDs I posted above have 2.5W at rear corners and not sure what the V-LED switchbacks pull... I did order some high power 7W corner lights from V-LEDs to replace my switchabacks... So to make short story long, I'll eventually have 7W in front two corners and 2.5W on rear corners.

Roger, I'm not sure what formula you used... But are those numbers helpful at all? Sorry I couldn't research the exact power pull of the factory lights as I am out of town still...

Kirk
I'll post the formula but someone try and get the specs on the switchbacks most of you guys are using. 2.5 and 7 w are higher then I expected ill let you know what the pun value would be for that combination.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:53 PM
  #206  
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The eBay Listing I purchased my Switchbacks from say they are 12w:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=244646953273

The rears don't have any Info about wattage:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_4337wt_848
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:47 PM
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I just spoke with V-LEDs the switchbacks I posted the link to earlier(48 smt) pull roughly 1.44W and obviously much less than that when it flashes... They were unable to give a specific wattage for when they are flashing...
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:22 PM
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Just want to make some reminders out there after my hours and hours of experience working with wiring and LEDs back in the day.

1) Make sure the polarity is correct when putting in those LEDs in the sockets. They are almost always polarity specific.

2) To test if you have hyperflash with an LED bulb remember to actually turn on your ignition and test your actual turn singal. Hyper-flsh will NOT be seen with the hazards. Hazards will blink at normal rate even with LED bulbs in and no resistors and it will fool you.

That will save you a lot of run around time and headache. I can't remember how many times I rechecked my work over and over because of those 2 reasons! I actually even replaced the front bumper and everything thinking I was OK, come to find out I had to redo everything! For those who have been doing this kind of work on their car for awhile, you already know this but hopefully it will help a newbie.

Now we know this works all 4 corners I am going to tackle it! I need t source those resistors now!
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:43 PM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by TL_85 View Post
I just spoke with V-LEDs the switchbacks I posted the link to earlier(48 smt) pull roughly 1.44W and obviously much less than that when it flashes... They were unable to give a specific wattage for when they are flashing...
Humm well its the power the ambers pull when flashing that we actually need. See with the OEM bulbs they are using 21W as running lights then jump up at 27W while signaling (Running lights stay on during signaling)
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:23 PM
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A Quick Suggestion i have... Do not take ur Whole bumper off, Just take out the screws from the fenders out and you should be able to access the corner lights from there. Just pull back on the fender plastics. I figured this out after taking my bumper out around 4-5 times to change lights
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:33 PM
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^^^ yeah there is absolutely not reason to remove the bumper for a simple bulb replacement. Turn your wheels to access the front wheel well pop out the two push pins and you can easily reach your hand right in by pulling the plastic out of the way. If you want just a tad more room you can even remove the one philips screw and pop out that top corner of the bumper. Plenty of room to do all the work you need to. I feel bad for the people that spent all that time taking the entire bumper off ;-D
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JTS97Z28 View Post
The two rear red LED's work just fine I tried them prior to messing with the turn signal relay. Also, I just noticed that even though the front LED's flash correctly they do not go on when I put the parking lights on. Yeah this is odd that the standard bulb works, but the LED doesn't. You would think since the circuit out back at the bulb holder is getting 12v it should light up.
So after all this I re-examined my resistor install and it's perfect as far as I can tell. I then removed one of the resistors and that didn't make a difference. So as it stands the rear turn signals only work with a standard halogen bulb, the front LED's work and flash correctly, but will not go on with parking lights.
As for the specs on my LED's see one of my posts above I put a link in for the exact ones I ordered.
I'm at work now so can't mess with it anymore, but I'm definitely looking for some ideas.

Thanks,
James
I had the same issue with my parking lights not coming on once I switched to led bulbs. I am using vleds AMBER 54 SMT TURN SIGNAL BULBS on all 4 corners. What I found was that the turn signal wire rests at ground when not in use. What its doing is actually shorting out the bulb and is the reason why the parking lights won't turn on. The way I fixed this issue was put a diode inline on the turn signal wire. That way there wasn't a ground feedback coming from the turn signal wire when the turn signal wasn't in use. Kind of sad that vleds are so expensive but they couldn't take the time to make sure that there bulbs wouldn't short out if this happens.
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Old 07-04-2011, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Gryphen View Post
I had the same issue with my parking lights not coming on once I switched to led bulbs. I am using vleds AMBER 54 SMT TURN SIGNAL BULBS on all 4 corners. What I found was that the turn signal wire rests at ground when not in use. What its doing is actually shorting out the bulb and is the reason why the parking lights won't turn on. The way I fixed this issue was put a diode inline on the turn signal wire. That way there wasn't a ground feedback coming from the turn signal wire when the turn signal wasn't in use. Kind of sad that vleds are so expensive but they couldn't take the time to make sure that there bulbs wouldn't short out if this happens.
Well then that explains why one of the metal leads on the base of my front LED's melted. Thanks for the info. I wonder if just using a load equalizer would solve that problem since I don't plan on doing the resistor method in the turn signal relay.
James
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Old 07-04-2011, 11:35 AM
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Well then that explains why one of the metal leads on the base of my front LED's melted. Thanks for the info. I wonder if just using a load equalizer would solve that problem since I don't plan on doing the resistor method in the turn signal relay.
Unfortunately load equalizers won't solve this issue either. I went that route and ordered them from vleds when I ordered my bulbs and still ran into the issue with the parking lights not working. Only way I could get them to work properly was to use the diode inline on the parking light wire up front. I had some IN5400 3A diodes laying around from my days as an installer for Circuit City and Tweeter. Looking at RadioShacks website you can pick them up for less then $2.00ea. I haven't had any issue with them yet since installing them. They also sell a 4pack of 6A diodes for less then $3.00 if your afraid 3A isn't powerful enough. Hope this helps ya out.
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Old 07-04-2011, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Gryphen View Post
Unfortunately load equalizers won't solve this issue either. I went that route and ordered them from vleds when I ordered my bulbs and still ran into the issue with the parking lights not working. Only way I could get them to work properly was to use the diode inline on the parking light wire up front. I had some IN5400 3A diodes laying around from my days as an installer for Circuit City and Tweeter. Looking at RadioShacks website you can pick them up for less then $2.00ea. I haven't had any issue with them yet since installing them. They also sell a 4pack of 6A diodes for less then $3.00 if your afraid 3A isn't powerful enough. Hope this helps ya out.

Yeah but how is it some of these guys are using front LED's without diodes? This is starting to sound more and more complicated to the point where it's just not worth it anymore.
Thanks for the info though.
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:02 PM
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tbh idk why others haven't had this issue or maybe others haven't noticed that there parking lights aren't working properly. I'd like to know the answer to that myself. Unless we some how got a batch of shitty bulbs from vleds. Honestly for the money I spent on vleds i'm not impressed by them at all. I bought them because of how many people on here spoke highly of them. There overall quality was not worth the money imo.
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:36 PM
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100% agree I would never use a VLED product even if they were 15/pair
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:57 AM
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Well dang I didnt know VLED products were so horrible. Wish I would have known that before I bought them but this is the first time I have heard people complaining about VLED's. The thing is the bulbs work 100% as advertised and I tested the fronts on both leads outside of the car using a 12 volt source and it worked as it should. I just assumed it was the car that wasnt cooperating with the LED's and not the LED's themselves.

Well with all that said I am selling my new LED's that I just dont feel like dealing with. If they made these LED's to be 100% plug and play that would be amazing, but im not going to be installing all these load equalizers and resistors in the turn relay.

Here is the link to everything for sale if anyone wants to give them a shot. Price is OBO and includes a pair of load equalizers and some .12ohm resistors already soldered in parallel.

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/new-vleds-front-rear-54-smt-park-turn-rear-turn-bulbs-1157-7443-a-825019/

Thanks,
James
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:17 PM
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Hey guys, if you guys want .12ohm resistors PM me.
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
100% agree I would never use a VLED product even if they were 15/pair
This is why I purchased from eBay. I didn't want to spend 50 bucks on a pair of LEDs to then find out they dont work right LMAO. I have purchased my Interior LED lights from VLEDs tho and have no Complaints at all. I purchased 4 pair from them

JTS97Z28 Im Guessing you received the Load Resistors I sent you

N.E. Ways The other night i was driving and my lights started to Hyperflash again .... So After I got home and stood their for a good few hours i left to then notice they stopped. This is come Crazy ish I wonder why they started to hyperflash just for a few and stop. It hasn't happend again and that happened on saturday
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:55 AM
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thank you Roger555! tried this on my car yesterday, and it works great so far!
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:15 AM
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Aight Remember that Problem I had on Saturday?? Heres a video.
Situation: I am stopped at a red light and the Turns start to Hyperflash... As Soon as I take off and Accelerate they stop!!! WTF Anyone have any ideas? Should I add another resistor or something. Its strange but heres the Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-p6Ljfmr9E
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Old 07-17-2011, 06:21 PM
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I tried this with 2 resistors in parallel...DIDN'T work!!! I checked and rechecked my work. Circuit board looks just the way Mayfoso's does. Can't figure out why? I am pretty annoyed because I went to great lengths to remove the load resistors from all 4 corners and I am close to regretting it because everything was working fine for 4 years with the old fashioned resistors.

How did this end up working for some of us and not for others? It can't be different relays, they look identical for all of us. I don't want to be stuck with hyperflash! meh! If all else fails I am going to spend a whole day putting the load resistors back??? I hope not, there has to be a solution here.

Last edited by rockyfeller; 07-17-2011 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:42 PM
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I screwed up something in my car trying this. I thought I had done everything right, but apparently, I did something very wrong.

04 TL 5AT with Navigation

I have LED blinkers in the front, the original OEM bulbs in the back, and I wired both sets of sidemarkers to blink.

Before installing the modified relay, I cut the old resistors out. When I went to test the new relay, the blinkers did not work and there was some odd popping/hissing noise coming from inside the cabin near the relay/fusebox. I immediately turned them off but didn't smell anything odd.

I reinstalled the shunt resistor in the relay and the old LED load resistors. I tried testing the blinkers again, but they still wouldn't work. The left (driver's) side hyperflash and the right (passenger's) side don't work at all. The hazards and the alarm blink still work.

I went to a local Acura dealership and purchased a new relay and it did the same thing.

I tried asking this in the Problems forum, but got no responses. Anyone here have any ideas?
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:45 PM
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MasterShake, not sure if there are fuses for both left and right blinkers, but you may want to see if the right signal fuse blew.
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BSpecialist View Post
MasterShake, not sure if there are fuses for both left and right blinkers, but you may want to see if the right signal fuse blew.
I was REALLY hoping this would be the case, but I'm not sure which fuse is which. From what I could tell, it looked like the turn signal fuses were combined with other parts. I think one was combined with the Navi, which still works. I'll look again.

The Acura dealer suggest I unplug the battery and hopefully that would reset it, but no luck. He thought I may have to replace the MICU...that is one piece with the interior fuse box. I dread this possibility.
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Mafyoso View Post
Aight Remember that Problem I had on Saturday?? Heres a video.
Situation: I am stopped at a red light and the Turns start to Hyperflash... As Soon as I take off and Accelerate they stop!!! WTF Anyone have any ideas? Should I add another resistor or something. Its strange but heres the Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-p6Ljfmr9E
wow. that is weird... hopefully someone can chime in with something useful to help out lol
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:15 AM
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Yeah I really thought this was a Great Fix and Is if it would be more Reliable and worked on all our cars.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MasterShake View Post
I screwed up something in my car trying this. I thought I had done everything right, but apparently, I did something very wrong.

04 TL 5AT with Navigation

I have LED blinkers in the front, the original OEM bulbs in the back, and I wired both sets of sidemarkers to blink.

Before installing the modified relay, I cut the old resistors out. When I went to test the new relay, the blinkers did not work and there was some odd popping/hissing noise coming from inside the cabin near the relay/fusebox. I immediately turned them off but didn't smell anything odd.

I reinstalled the shunt resistor in the relay and the old LED load resistors. I tried testing the blinkers again, but they still wouldn't work. The left (driver's) side hyperflash and the right (passenger's) side don't work at all. The hazards and the alarm blink still work.

I went to a local Acura dealership and purchased a new relay and it did the same thing.

I tried asking this in the Problems forum, but got no responses. Anyone here have any ideas?
Sorry to hear your having issues with this. Before we even start diagnosing your problem I see a red flag where you mention "I cut the old resistors out" I hope you didn't really cut it out and actually desoldered it. Please post some pictures or your relay if you could.
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
Sorry to hear your having issues with this. Before we even start diagnosing your problem I see a red flag where you mention "I cut the old resistors out" I hope you didn't really cut it out and actually desoldered it. Please post some pictures or your relay if you could.
I had load resistors already installed in the trunk. These are the ones I cut out. I desoldered the shunt resistor and installed two .12 Ohm resistors like

a
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
Sorry to hear your having issues with this. Before we even start diagnosing your problem I see a red flag where you mention "I cut the old resistors out" I hope you didn't really cut it out and actually desoldered it. Please post some pictures or your relay if you could.
I had load resistors already installed in the trunk. These are the ones I cut out. On the relay, I desoldered the shunt resistor and installed two .12 Ohm resistors like JTS97Z28 did:

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Old 07-18-2011, 01:20 PM
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Yup thats how its done, Well thats the way i did mines
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:07 AM
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^^Yup I soldered my resistors same way. Not working. I left mine in and I've been running the car just fine as is. After reading this thread I feel like putting the shunt back in to avoid trouble. Oh boy this is going to take hrs. to put all 4 gold load resistors back in!

Unless someone can calculate a better resistor that will work with 4 LEDs. This has to work, seems to be working fine for Roger and others with 2 LEDs.

BTW anyone that is having weird electrical problems; I noticed that the lead for the resistor has to bend dangerously close to one of the pins of the relay. MAKE SURE they are NOT making contact! It may be a reason for the electrical system going haywire.

Last edited by rockyfeller; 07-20-2011 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:35 AM
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Yeah I noticed that when I did mines. Those pins bend easy and you have to be careful they go in right and not touch any other slots. That can cause a lot of problems.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rockyfeller View Post
...
BTW anyone that is having weird electrical problems; I noticed that the lead for the resistor has to bend dangerously close to one of the pins of the relay. MAKE SURE they are NOT making contact! It may be a reason for the electrical system going haywire.
I noticed the resistor having to bend close to the pins as well so I put a piece of electrical tape on the pin as a temporary insulator. The tape was still there when I disassembled it later, but wonder if something else may have shorted.

I haven't checked the fuses yet.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:14 PM
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If anyone needs some of these resistors, I just bought 10 of them from the same website Roger555 got them from and will have extras. PM me if you want me to send you some!
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:07 AM
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^ hehehe before nobody had resistors now we have surplus.....hey dudes, before you go to digikey, PM any of us.
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Old 07-21-2011, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rockyfeller View Post
^ hehehe before nobody had resistors now we have surplus.....hey dudes, before you go to digikey, PM any of us.
Yeah I didnt even bother ordering from Digikey or any other place. I was lucky enough that I got them from someone here. Just paid postage i think and thats it. We got some nice people on Acurazine
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:48 PM
  #239  
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Damn cuz I just ordered some switchbacks from vleds and was about to hit up local radio shack and do the shunt removal to stop hyperflash.

Someone should gather intel on who has all 4 led blinkers compared to just the fronts led back oem.

Then what resistors used and if shunt method or inline??

Do you have to run 2 in parrallel or can you just use 1 resistor enough to work?

And I know most of you know but those resistors only work going in one way and can not be reversed because there is alot of smarter people here than I.
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Old 07-22-2011, 02:26 AM
  #240  
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<~~ I have Switchbacks in the Front and LED turns in the Rear. Mines seem to work fine with two .12 resistors soldered just like the picture above. I have only one problem which is the Video i posted above. Sometimes if im not on the gas it starts to hyperflash and stops when i take off. Weird but only happens maybe 3 times a week. I think Imma see if I buy another Relay and try it again with the new one. I think I may have scratched some of the relays bored when i was removing the shunt and im wondering if thats the reason its doing this.
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