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G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS

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G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS

 
Old 06-23-2011, 07:19 PM
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its tough to take out. Thats the hardest part of this DIY. Just pull no pinching. You pinch after the relay is out to get inside of it. I tried sticking a small screw driver to get leverage so try something in that route
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:53 PM
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yea... the silver case thing or whatever is now in a dozen pieces. pieces of the fuse clip are now broken off and the pos relay is still stuck in there. imo making trunk load resistors would have been easier than taking out this thing. i really fucking hate my car
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:40 PM
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Ugh I wish this would work for me. I ended up leaving the rear LED's in and for who knows what reason they dont hyperflash with the shunt resistor left alone. So the cool thing is I can use the rear LED's and it works perfectly but as soon as I put the front LED's in and mess with the shunt resistor things start going hay wire. Im curious if there is some sort of difference between the resistors I bought from Fry's compared to the ones you guys are all getting from digikey.
Its too bad because the front amber LED's I bought looked amazing in there.

James
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:54 PM
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Damn How did u manage that?
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JTS97Z28 View Post
Ugh I wish this would work for me. I ended up leaving the rear LED's in and for who knows what reason they dont hyperflash with the shunt resistor left alone. So the cool thing is I can use the rear LED's and it works perfectly but as soon as I put the front LED's in and mess with the shunt resistor things start going hay wire. Im curious if there is some sort of difference between the resistors I bought from Fry's compared to the ones you guys are all getting from digikey.
Its too bad because the front amber LED's I bought looked amazing in there.

James
I still think there is an underlying issue here. Something somewhere is bridging a connection between your turn signal circuit and your running light circuit. It would explain why your interior lights are receiving interference (pulsing). It think its coming from the connection at your front signals and most likely being caused by the internal switchback circuit of your new LEDs. Its hard to diagnose these problems without getting a voltage meter out and a bench power supply to test but if I were to guess I am willing to bet one of your VLEDs is defective.

Is there any way you can test the bulbs in someone else's car or get ahold of another set to test?

Oh, here try this. Chances are only one unit is bad so leave the LEDS in the rear and try just hooking up one VLED up front. Obviously they will hyper flash without the new resistors but you should be able to see if only one of them is causing inference to the running light circuit.
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
I still think there is an underlying issue here. Something somewhere is bridging a connection between your turn signal circuit and your running light circuit. It would explain why your interior lights are receiving interference (pulsing). It think its coming from the connection at your front signals and most likely being caused by the internal switchback circuit of your new LEDs. Its hard to diagnose these problems without getting a voltage meter out and a bench power supply to test but if I were to guess I am willing to bet one of your VLEDs is defective.

Is there any way you can test the bulbs in someone else's car or get ahold of another set to test?

Oh, here try this. Chances are only one unit is bad so leave the LEDS in the rear and try just hooking up one VLED up front. Obviously they will hyper flash without the new resistors but you should be able to see if only one of them is causing inference to the running light circuit.
Ok that actually sounds like a really good test. I will leave the relay stock but test only one LED bulb at a time in the front and see what happens. If I notice some interior light flickering without messing with the relay then I can assume its a LED bulb issue. I guess thats all it can be because everything works 100% perfectly stock. I will report back.

Thanks,
James
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:03 AM
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I tested one LED bulb at a time with everything else in the car stock. Stock relay, stock rear bulbs, and stock drivers side front bulb. I put in one front LED bulb and the parking light did not work. I then tried the second LED bulb and same thing no steady burning parking light. I tried the turn signal and it works but obviously hyper flash. Why on earth would both of those bulbs not work for the parking lights. Could they both be defective? wtf

James
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:09 AM
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Im Wondering if you got the write bulbs and/or if those are damaged. I say this because your stock setup works fine with the parking lights and the LEDs don't light up the parking lights. Either that or you may have a short somewhere cause its weird that you don't get Hyper-flashing with the Rear LEDs. Im rooting for ya but your electronics is all Jack up in some matter.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JTS97Z28 View Post
I tested one LED bulb at a time with everything else in the car stock. Stock relay, stock rear bulbs, and stock drivers side front bulb. I put in one front LED bulb and the parking light did not work. I then tried the second LED bulb and same thing no steady burning parking light. I tried the turn signal and it works but obviously hyper flash. Why on earth would both of those bulbs not work for the parking lights. Could they both be defective? wtf

James
Humm sounds like there is definitely a problem or maybe the wrong bulbs. They are labeled 1157? maybe post some pictures of them. I'm completely sure but I think maybe 1156 bulbs would fit in the 1157 socket but only work as a turn signal.

Heres a quote from another forum just searching around real quick.

"Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfulco
I've seen a 1156 bulb in a 1157 tail-light socket cause all kinds of weird lighting effects on a '75 Chevy truck. Liked to never have figured that one out.



Yes Jim your right,It will cause the lights to do some crazy things.
"

Last edited by Roger555; 06-24-2011 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:35 AM
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Yeah the 1156 come with signal filaments which will only work with turns. I still couldn't see how they would do all type of crazy things with the interior lighting tho. Plus that still doesn't explain the LEDs in the Rear that don't Hyperflash. You probably did do this but did you try just the front LEDs with regular Rears? Also what Bulbs did u get for the rear? 7440 cause V-LEDs sells two types of 7440s. The Standard 7440s and the CK Type 7440s IDK if this would make a difference or not but its worth a check.
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:01 PM
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I spoke with the guy at Vleds who seemed pretty helpful. He first had me test the bulbs to ensure they were not defective. I hooked up a ground and 12v source outside of the car and the bulb lit up when I touched both leads at the bottom of the bulb. So, the bulbs are not defective.
To furthur test I hooked the bulb up to my wifes Accord which uses the same bulb and it did the same thing. No park lights. So my car is not messed up either. The guy at Vled thinks its simply a load issue in that it will not ignite the light if the correct load is not applied to the system. He told me that the load resistors will fix that. So now im not sure why they arent working correctly when I had the 2 .12ohm resistors installed. It turns out my car only did the weird interior flickering when I messed with the shunt resistor. I did do all the testing with the standard bulbs re-installed in the rears so those have nothing to do with it as far as I can tell.
Here is a picture of the front LED's I bought with the part numbers. Can you guys tell me if these are infact the right ones? Also, is there anyone out there that would be so kind to install a front LED with a stock relay and see if it turns on when you flip the parking lights on?
Thanks again for all the help.
James

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Old 06-24-2011, 12:15 PM
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Yup those are them, Well Mines are Switchbacks but look the same. At least you know there is nothing wrong with your car. Has anyone else here install these type of bulbs form V-LEDs? I got mines from Ebay so they aren't from V-LEDs. If you need the other Load resistors for any reason I have two that I wont be using LMK!
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:36 PM
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Maybe for switchbacks, something is different?
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafyoso View Post
Yup those are them, Well Mines are Switchbacks but look the same. At least you know there is nothing wrong with your car. Has anyone else here install these type of bulbs form V-LEDs? I got mines from Ebay so they aren't from V-LEDs. If you need the other Load resistors for any reason I have two that I wont be using LMK!
Ok thanks for the info. Yeah I wouldn't mind trying the load resistors and see if I can get them working that way. I still would like to use these as the LED's sure looked nice in there when I did get them working. I will PM you now with my address.

Thanks very much for all your help.

James
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by tehloxely View Post
Maybe for switchbacks, something is different?
The only thing I would see different is that they have two different color LEDs instead of one, But they both should flash the same. But Who knows Im no LED Expert.
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:33 PM
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ok i managed to get it out... (altho my silver housing is destroyed)
how do i remove the OEM shunt resistor? just pull it out?
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by con5tant View Post
ok i managed to get it out... (altho my silver housing is destroyed)
how do i remove the OEM shunt resistor? just pull it out?
No you have to use a solder iron to heat the solder on the opposite side and it will pull right out. Then to get the new resistors on do the same thing re-solder them in place.

James
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:22 PM
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so i'm going to need to buy some solder too?
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:25 PM
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hey guys, i have been following this thread for a bit. I ordered my resistors from digikey. They are the exact same ones as you guys have (0.12 ohm). I have soldered them in parallel, only soldering one resistor to the circuit board, and then the second resistor soldered to the sides of the first resistor. The same as you all have pictured. I have LEDs in the rear and switchbacks in the front, so all four flashers are LED. I still have hyperflash. However, when i put stock bulbs back in the rear i have normal flash for my front switchbacks....

So I thought this might mean I need more resistance so i soldered 3 resistors in parallel.... still the hyperflash with all four flashers as LEDs... I have an ASM 07 base TL Nav.... my front LEDs are 7443 and rears are 7440.... any suggestions on what i need to get this to work???

THANKS,
Kirk
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:30 PM
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:25 AM
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im a little confused why or how do you have 7443 in the front? this is from the Sylvania guide itself for all TLs year 2007:

Front turn signal
1157A
1157ALL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Rear turn signal
7440
7440ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
7440LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Your switchbacks should be the same type LEDs JTS showed a picture of (1157) not 7443s. If they do fit try just one resistor instead of two and please do explain how ur fitting these bulbs in the front...
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by con5tant View Post
ok i managed to get it out... (altho my silver housing is destroyed)
how do i remove the OEM shunt resistor? just pull it out?
I tried to Solder the shunt off but it didn't work, I kept trying to heat up the solder and move the shunt back and forth till it eventually came off. Also yeah urll need a little bit of solder to solder the resistors
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:44 AM
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My 07 TL is a Base Model TL not a Type-S. Apparently, the base models only have a 7443 bulb for their front blinkers. I wish my factory blinkers were 1157's because those are better bulbs and you have more options. Unfortunately, im still stuck with the same problem though. I have tried two resistors and three resistors, both times i got a hyperflash. The only way i can get a normal flash from this mod is if i put my factory bulbs back in the rear flashers and keep only the switchbacks in.

Im thinking something must be different for me....maybe the Base model TL's wiring is slightly different? What are you guys thoughts??
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:49 AM
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Here is a thread from this site that is pretty helpful for bulb size referral:

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-generation-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-acura-tl-bulb-sizes-list-3g-garage-g-077-a-691135/

I have cleared heads and tails, so i cant have the factory bulb.... and the last thing im going to do is get a "red halogen bulb" for my rear 7440s .... I guess im just a little frustrated at this point... any help would be greatly appreciated!

THanks in advance!

Kirk
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TL_85 View Post
My 07 TL is a Base Model TL not a Type-S. Apparently, the base models only have a 7443 bulb for their front blinkers. I wish my factory blinkers were 1157's because those are better bulbs and you have more options. Unfortunately, im still stuck with the same problem though. I have tried two resistors and three resistors, both times i got a hyperflash. The only way i can get a normal flash from this mod is if i put my factory bulbs back in the rear flashers and keep only the switchbacks in.

Im thinking something must be different for me....maybe the Base model TL's wiring is slightly different? What are you guys thoughts??
I cant imagine for the life of me the base TL having different front turn signals. There is no way Acura would design different wiring harnesses and bulb setups between different trim levels of a car. Both base model and Type S headlights are identical besides obviously the color of trim parts inside. Even my wifes 04 Accord uses the exact same 1157 bulb as our TL's. I tried one of the LED's in her car yesterday just for grins. I think you bought the wrong front bulbs. Have you even looked yet to confirm? The front should be a duel filament bulb one for steady burning parking lamps, and the other for the turn function. Just look at my picture posted above the base of the bulb should look just like that.

James
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:41 AM
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I dont get it either cause the Sylvania Bulb guide doesn't ask my for the type of TL it just shows TL in General. check it out:
http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...placementGuide

Thats weird their Guide is usually never wrong. I do see that the TL from 04-06 does used that bulb size for the front. It may be that for the type S they changed it. BUt it does make no sense on wasting money on different parts just for the Type S
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Old 06-25-2011, 01:18 PM
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I know its weird, but its the truth. I have already installed them. The difference is; the 7443 is a dual filament wedge bulb (similar to the single filament 7440 wedge) and the 1157 is a twist on bulb. Anyway, I've already installed it so i can confirm that the base TL 07's use a 7443 for front flashers. I called the Acura dealer to confirm as well. They said base 07's have 7443 and Type-S have 1157, he wasn't sure why either....

With all that said.... the lights look great, they just hyperflash... and I guess I'm gonna have to just get the load resisters on vleds website to install in the trunk since this mod only works for the front 2 LEDs for me and not all 4

Do you guys have any other suggestions as far as what i could do for the turn signal relay?
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Old 06-25-2011, 01:21 PM
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I did see that at autozone as well... I checked in their book and it only showed 1157 for the 07 TL... but it didn't specify for Type-S vs. Base Model.... Thanks to their book i actually initially ordered 1157 LED switchbacks and had to return and reorder 7443 LEDs .... but thats another story for a different day, hah
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:38 PM
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Well I'll be darn that's crazy that the base uses a different bulb. Very weird.

James
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:39 PM
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Looks like I got excited too soon, i went to install my rear LED bulbs and so I tried the left rear first...it started hyperflashing without lighting the rear bulb, so i reversed the polarity and it started flashing, but still hyperflash. I have switchbacks in the front and the 2 0.12ohm resistors soldering in parallel so I'm not sure what the next step should be. Do i need the LEDs in all 4 corners before testing or what?
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:25 PM
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BSpecialist, do you got a type-S? or base TL?

Have you tried to keep factories in the rear and only run the switchback LEDs ? ...you might be having a similar problem as me....
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TL_85 View Post
BSpecialist, do you got a type-S? or base TL?

Have you tried to keep factories in the rear and only run the switchback LEDs ? ...you might be having a similar problem as me....
Type-S, and i've been runing the factory bulbs in the rear with the switchbacks in the front for a few weeks now, no problems.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:09 AM
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Just found out that with my car on acc power my lights still hyperflash. The car has to be turned on for it to go away
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Old 06-26-2011, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafyoso View Post
Just found out that with my car on acc power my lights still hyperflash. The car has to be turned on for it to go away
Interesting, I'm not sure why it would do that, but I tried it and it still is hyperflashing. It also turns out my LEDs aren't as bright as I wanted so I will have to buy some higher smd bulbs. Any other ideas of why my shit hyperflashes with LEDs in all corners, please let me know.
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Old 06-26-2011, 02:20 PM
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We might be going the wrong direction on the resistor values. The OEM shunt resistor is 20 mΩ which is .02 Ohms . The .12 ohm = 120mΩ and this works for the front signals but .06 ohm = 60mΩ which is down closer to what the shunt resistor was originally. Maybe we need try .24 ohm or 240mΩ resistor.

I would do it but I don't rear LEDs so I have no way of testing it.
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
We might be going the wrong direction on the resistor values. The OEM shunt resistor is 20 mΩ which is .02 Ohms . The .12 ohm = 120mΩ and this works for the front signals but .06 ohm = 60mΩ which is down closer to what the shunt resistor was originally. Maybe we need try .24 ohm or 240mΩ resistor.

I would do it but I don't rear LEDs so I have no way of testing it.
Interesting...just makes me wonder why Mafyoso's worked with the .06ohms...
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:06 PM
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Roger,

This an excellent idea and makes perfect sense.... I hadn't really thought to deep into this, but if you have four lights you need MORE resistance because 4 lights draw less power than just 2... Therefore, more resistance is needed to balance out ohm's law...

I think I have 2 0.12 ohm resistors left from digikey... If so I will try to solder them in series when I get home as I am out of town right now... Hopefully I can fit both into the relay...

Anybody else agree this makes more sense???

Kirk
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:17 PM
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I dont have any technical data for you guys but all I know is that with my 08 Type S really weird electircal things started happening using 2 .12 resistors for front and rear LED's. As soon as random lights started flickering in my interior I said nope and put the stock shunt resistor back in. Im not doubting anyones work here but im not going to risk my cars electrical system for a set of LED's. As of right now I have just rear LED's installed and they work perfectly fine with nothing else changed. No hyperflash or anything. For the fronts I will just use the load equalizer and be done with it. Just waiting for them to arrive from mafyoso...thanks buddy :-)

James
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:37 PM
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Hey you guys I did some more research and I think I can get this to work for everyone. I'm out of town now so give me a few days.

In the meantime can one of you that have been in contact with the VLED tech support get the current rating for these LED bulbs both the front and rear? I will need to plug these numbers into a formula because apparently the Ohm value of the resistor needs to be a bit more precise for you guys running front & rear.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BSpecialist View Post
Interesting...just makes me wonder why Mafyoso's worked with the .06ohms...
Yeah I think it all comes down to the LEDs we use. Im just glad mines work
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