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Ok so I received the resistors in the mail and its still doing the same thing. The right side still hyperflashes with the head lights on. I'm wondering if maybe its a bad bulb? I did get them from ebay after all. I'm going to switch the sides the bulbs are on and see what happens.
Ok so I received the resistors in the mail and its still doing the same thing. The right side still hyperflashes with the head lights on. I'm wondering if maybe its a bad bulb? I did get them from ebay after all. I'm going to switch the sides the bulbs are on and see what happens.
I really want to blame it on the eBay bulbs because you aren't the first person for this to happen to. The other people that had the same problem also had eBay bulbs.
However I don't recall them buying new bulbs from anywhere else and reporting back to say if it fixed the problem or not.
I used to have kaixen switchbacks from eBay and it worked just fine. I have triton v3 switchbacks now.
I really want to blame it on the eBay bulbs because you aren't the first person for this to happen to. The other people that had the same problem also had eBay bulbs.
However I don't recall them buying new bulbs from anywhere else and reporting back to say if it fixed the problem or not.
I used to have kaixen switchbacks from eBay and it worked just fine. I have triton v3 switchbacks now.
Yessir blame it on eBay! I switched the fronts, and the right side still hyperflash ex. Switched the rears and the left side hyperflashed with the right side blinking regularly. Gonna order a new set of leds as soon as I finish posting this.
the resistance of some of the LEDs is different enough to throw it off, right now my TL is hyperflashing again, but only when I have the headlights on
It didn't hyperflash at all before, I've put in a .12 ohm resistor and had VLED V3 tritons in the front, without the fuse installed, and some VLED LEDs in the rear, didn't have any hyperflashing with this setup
I pulled my tritons out since they'll be going in my accord and put some less expensive ones in from diode dynamics, now I get hyperflashing only when the headlights are on and I turn a blinker on. If I don't have the headlights on I don't get any hyperflashing, all my bulbs are good. So I'm going to change to a 0.24 ohm resistor and see if that does the trick.
the resistance of some of the LEDs is different enough to throw it off, right now my TL is hyperflashing again, but only when I have the headlights on
It didn't hyperflash at all before, I've put in a .12 ohm resistor and had VLED V3 tritons in the front, without the fuse installed, and some VLED LEDs in the rear, didn't have any hyperflashing with this setup
I pulled my tritons out since they'll be going in my accord and put some less expensive ones in from diode dynamics, now I get hyperflashing only when the headlights are on and I turn a blinker on. If I don't have the headlights on I don't get any hyperflashing, all my bulbs are good. So I'm going to change to a 0.24 ohm resistor and see if that does the trick.
Sorry for double posting, I really couldn't figure out how to edit my last post. I'm wondering if the leds hyperflashing with the headlights on could be because the HID's are overpowering the resistors. Do you have other leds on the car besides the turn signals? Maybe instead of a .24 you should upgrade to a .36?
I live near a computer parts store that doesn't stock their inventory online (ironic right?).
They have 1 Watt 28 Ohm resistors at 10% for like 25 cents (I'll get a picture of the receipt for proof if anyone takes me up on it).
Would probably send them anywhere in the U.S. for 75 cents.
He had at least a hundred, I'd venture to say a couple hundred of them.
I'd help out anyone who wants to cover the cost of the resistor + shipping (maybe a $1, definitely not more than $2) with the addition of a "Thanks" (I'm a cheap whore).
Disclaimer: I have VLED's V3's in the front and stocks out back at the moment, no hyperflashing or codes with that resistor installed, I will be putting LED's in the back at some point (maybe a VLED's black friday sale).
Just to update a .24 ohm resistor did the trick in mine. It was odd though, it didn't work until after I did a battery pull.
To summarize:
Originally I used a .12 ohm resistor w/ VLED V3 Tritons w/o the fuse installed in front and VLED non-triton LEDs in back, this worked with no hyperflashing.
I switched to diode dynamics switchbacks in front and started getting hyperflashing when I had the headlights on and hit the turn signal, with headlights off I had no hyperflashing.
I then switched to a .24 ohm resistor and initially I had hyperflashing still, but after doing a battery pull it no longer hyperflashes. So no hyper-flashing without the headlights on or with the headlights on.
First off thanks to the OP and other who contributed to this thread I'm not sure if anyone else with a lack of knowledge in resistors like myself made this mistake but I decided to go ahead and soder in the .24 ohm 1/2w resistor in advance so it would be ready to go when my led bulbs came in. Well a few hour later i was driving and started hearing a strange noise from under the dash and then blinkers stopped working. I pulled out the little control box and saw that resistor i put in had burned up. Now I'm assuming that this was because I should have waited until the led bulbs were in but please correct me if I'm wrong. So I put the oem shunt back in and everything works fine.
I'm pretty sure it's also because you're supposed to put a 1W resistor in and not a 1/2W one.
Cause you know, that's half the power. So 1/2W can only dissipate 1/2W while 1W up to 1W...
If you want to play it safe, you can use a resistor with 100W (obviously overkill), but you can't go under "what's needed" or the resistor will burn itself.
I used my .24 ohm 1w resistor for a week before my LEDs arrived with no problems.
Well good to know I'm not the only one who installed this first lol I would have but just looked through the most recent posts to see where ppl were getting the resistors from
they look good in driving mode but when blinking i found them way dimmer than stock (50% or less imo). Is this normal, should i get brighter ones?
Also which socket type is tl 2005 turn signal (standard or CK type?)
Thanks
You want standard 7443 for the front and 7440 for the rear.
They seem less bright because those LEDs are poor quality.
3 years ago I ran similar switchbacks that you are using. The turn signal amber was impossible to see from 100 ft away on a bright sunny day. That's dangerous.
That's why those bulbs and several others on eBay are so cheap and only cost $20-$40.
If you want a high quality switchback bulb that is the brightest aftermarket bulb available on the market than you will have to buy that VLEDS Triton v3 switchbacks.
They are almost as bright as the LEDs that come on some BMWs.
They cost $135 for the pair. I have them as well as many other members on here.
OP thanks for the detailed info, just went thru all 29 pages..
Will be doing this during the weekend..
Anyone have any spare 1w .12 ohm resistors laying around that I can pick one up from them?
If not I am thinking of getting this one..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NTE-1WD12-1W-12-Ohm-5-1WD12-/161159855199?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585e03c5f
Will only run switchbacks in front, not going to run leds in back so all I need is a .12 ohm
As long as it's truly 0.12 than it should work out... The only problem I see is:
1. The color bands on that resistor doesn't add up to 0.12. They might just use a generic resistor picture rather than the actual resistor they are selling.
2. The eBay title says 12 ohms in the header but in the item description it says 0.12 ohm. The color bands in the eBay picture adds up to 12 ohms though.
Here's what a actual 0.12 resistance color band should be..
It should be in this order. 1. Brown 2. Red 3. Silver 4. Gold = 0.12 ohm
The picture for that ebay listing looks 1. Brown 2. Red 3. BLACK 4. Gold = 12 ohms
As long as it's truly 0.12 than it should work out... The only problem I see is:
1. The color bands on that resistor doesn't add up to 0.12. They might just use a generic resistor picture rather than the actual resistor they are selling.
2. The eBay title says 12 ohms in the header but in the item description it says 0.12 ohm. The color bands in the eBay picture adds up to 12 ohms though.
Here's what a actual 0.12 resistance color band should be..
It should be in this order. 1. Brown 2. Red 3. Silver 4. Gold = 0.12 ohm
The picture for that ebay listing looks 1. Brown 2. Red 3. BLACK 4. Gold = 12 ohms
Big difference between 0.12 ohms and 12.0 ohms..
Thanks for looking out viet
It indeed has to be .12 based on all the info in this thread, could be they use a generic pic for the ebay listing, I shot them a question about it just to be sure.
I would rather send a couple bucks to a fellow Aziner that still has some left over.. But its been a while since someone posted they had some.
Thanks OP for all the info, got around to do this during the weekend.. Relay came out easy since reading all the comments here I figured they were pressing the tabs rather than opening them..
So I have read through this up entire post and this is where I'm at. I purchased one .24 ohm 1watt resistor, removed the factory shunt on the flasher relay, and installed the new resistor. I have front switch backs and rear LEDs. I still have a hyper flash. If I replace the rear turn signal bulbs with the factory halogens, I get no hyper flash when my headlights are off, but when I turn my headlights on, then I get a hyper flash. My LEDs came with inline resistors and I really would like to not use them, so any advice would help.
UPDATE: I took an extra .24 ohm resistor and wired it in series with the other .24 ohm resistor I already soldered in and I had success! I have no hyper flash with switchbacks in the front and halogens in the back, with or without my headlights on! So that's good!
My dilemma is trying to figure out what ohm resistor I need to install in the flasher relay to allow my car to run LEDs in all four corners and not have hyperflash. I bought two .47 5watt resistors from RadioShack. I figured that if it took .48 ohms to allow my front LEDs to function normally. So maybe .94 ohms would let all four corners function normally with LEDs?
Try getting 2 .12 ohm resistors and wire in series.
I meant I wired two .24 ohm resistors in parallel, equating to .12 ohms. Do you think 2 .12 ohm resistors would work since one .24 ohm resistor did not? I'm confused as to what my next step should be.
I've got next Wednesday and Thursday off, so that will be the day I wa
I'll open everything back up and check things out. I will post pictures of my solders and see if that is the issue.
I had enough time last night to mess with the relay, so I took it apart and reworked the resistors. Originally I had one .24 ohm resistor soldered in attempting to fix the hyper flash issue I was having with switchback LEDs in the front, and cheap LEDs in the rear turn signals. This, however, did not fix the issue. I then proceeded to solder in .24 ohm resistors in parallel (I thought it was series) which allowed me to run my switchbacks in the front, and regular incandescents in the rear turn signals. After receiving my shipment from digikey I wires two .24 ohm resistors in series creating .48 ohms of resistance and BOOM! Both front and rear LED turn signals function properly with no hyper flash. Maybe that is the key to success on these cars that do not like the .24 ohm resistors for front and rear LED turn signals, is to just wire in .48 ohm resistor (or equivalent). I will post pictures when I get to a computer.
I really want to blame it on the eBay bulbs because you aren't the first person for this to happen to. The other people that had the same problem also had eBay bulbs.
However I don't recall them buying new bulbs from anywhere else and reporting back to say if it fixed the problem or not.
I used to have kaixen switchbacks from eBay and it worked just fine. I have triton v3 switchbacks now.
I have the V3's too. Did you eliminate the load resisters with your install?
When I try to install rear led's I have all kinds of problems.
I have zero issues with hyper flashing on my switchbacks. Only issue I have with those is sometimes they are like V1 and sometimes they are like V2 switchbacks.
They blink A-O-A-O when first start driving but after a while they blink A-W-A-W.
Very annoying lol
When I try to install rear led's I have all kinds of problems.
I have zero issues with hyper flashing on my switchbacks. Only issue I have with those is sometimes they are like V1 and sometimes they are like V2 switchbacks.
They blink A-O-A-O when first start driving but after a while they blink A-W-A-W.
Very annoying lol
Sounds like it MIGHT be a bulb defect more so than a resistor. The other times I've heard of similar symptoms, it was due to some ebay bulbs. Do you have other bulbs to try to confirm? I have had this mod done with v-leds bulbs and it has worked great!
I have tried several different rear led bulbs with different counts of led boards. All fail.
The switchbacks are a few years old. Can't remember where I got them from. It wasn't ebay and they were around $80 for the set. I have not tested different swithbacks yet but have been debating going with just straight amber led for corners.
Haven't really driven or messed with the car in a couple years, so don't have much new evidence.
11-02-2014, 03:56 PM
