G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS
06-05-2012, 11:00 PM
#801
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It could be possible that you have them both backwards.
Led's have to be plugged in the right way. If you plug them in and they don't work. Twist out the light and put in the opposite you took it out.
That has worked for me on a couple bulbs.
Not sure if you knew this thats why I am taking the time to type it out. GL
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rydjohnson (06-19-2012)
06-09-2012, 12:22 AM
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It should work for an RL, it was founded by the Ridgeline first I believe.
And as far as your HID fog problem flashing or "flickering" you need to run it with a relay to get constant power. Read through this to get an idea of what I mean.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/g-029-diy-independent-fog-lights-stock-switch-772633/
And as far as your HID fog problem flashing or "flickering" you need to run it with a relay to get constant power. Read through this to get an idea of what I mean.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/g-029-diy-independent-fog-lights-stock-switch-772633/
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tagalog4life (06-09-2012)
06-10-2012, 03:14 PM
#807
OK so I've now been hit with the relay flasher quirks. Great.
This mod worked flawlessly for a number of months. Absolutely loved it. Had 4 load resistors for the last 5yrs, this was a better idea than generating all that heat.
Then what started to happen is my signals wouldn't work occasionally. (pretty dangerous when making a turn/lane change and you don't realize it till someone is honking at you!) Once you play with them (on/off or play with the hazzards) they'd work again. I pulled the relay and figured it was a solder point, so I applied pressure here and there. The flasher relay worked fine for a few more days.
Then it reached a point now where it doesn't FLASH at all. It will flash ONCE and that's it. If I reactivate the signal from the stalk (on/off) in rapid succession it doesn't work at all. If I wait about .5 sec from the last flash it will flash again ONCE. Same with the hazards, just one flash, then dead. So I've been driving around manually flashing my signals, up/down, up/down, one flash at a time like a dummy, lol.
Yesterday I pulled the relay and totally examined the resistors, resoldered tested and resoldered. Same issue. I think my relay is toast. I don't know if someone else has had this problem but from my reading it seems like I'm the only one.
If I get a new relay I don't want this to happen again and waste $50. I am thinking bout doing those load resistors again. Only problem is trying to get to the front headlight wiring. I'd have to pull my front bumper again for the 750th time! Arrgh!
Anybody know the part number on the Mitsuba relay?
This mod worked flawlessly for a number of months. Absolutely loved it. Had 4 load resistors for the last 5yrs, this was a better idea than generating all that heat.
Then what started to happen is my signals wouldn't work occasionally. (pretty dangerous when making a turn/lane change and you don't realize it till someone is honking at you!) Once you play with them (on/off or play with the hazzards) they'd work again. I pulled the relay and figured it was a solder point, so I applied pressure here and there. The flasher relay worked fine for a few more days.
Then it reached a point now where it doesn't FLASH at all. It will flash ONCE and that's it. If I reactivate the signal from the stalk (on/off) in rapid succession it doesn't work at all. If I wait about .5 sec from the last flash it will flash again ONCE. Same with the hazards, just one flash, then dead. So I've been driving around manually flashing my signals, up/down, up/down, one flash at a time like a dummy, lol.
Yesterday I pulled the relay and totally examined the resistors, resoldered tested and resoldered. Same issue. I think my relay is toast. I don't know if someone else has had this problem but from my reading it seems like I'm the only one.
If I get a new relay I don't want this to happen again and waste $50. I am thinking bout doing those load resistors again. Only problem is trying to get to the front headlight wiring. I'd have to pull my front bumper again for the 750th time! Arrgh!
Anybody know the part number on the Mitsuba relay?
Last edited by rockyfeller; 06-10-2012 at 03:16 PM.
06-11-2012, 11:28 AM
#808
OK so I've now been hit with the relay flasher quirks. Great.
This mod worked flawlessly for a number of months. Absolutely loved it. Had 4 load resistors for the last 5yrs, this was a better idea than generating all that heat.
Then what started to happen is my signals wouldn't work occasionally. (pretty dangerous when making a turn/lane change and you don't realize it till someone is honking at you!) Once you play with them (on/off or play with the hazzards) they'd work again. I pulled the relay and figured it was a solder point, so I applied pressure here and there. The flasher relay worked fine for a few more days.
Then it reached a point now where it doesn't FLASH at all. It will flash ONCE and that's it. If I reactivate the signal from the stalk (on/off) in rapid succession it doesn't work at all. If I wait about .5 sec from the last flash it will flash again ONCE. Same with the hazards, just one flash, then dead. So I've been driving around manually flashing my signals, up/down, up/down, one flash at a time like a dummy, lol.
Yesterday I pulled the relay and totally examined the resistors, resoldered tested and resoldered. Same issue. I think my relay is toast. I don't know if someone else has had this problem but from my reading it seems like I'm the only one.
If I get a new relay I don't want this to happen again and waste $50. I am thinking bout doing those load resistors again. Only problem is trying to get to the front headlight wiring. I'd have to pull my front bumper again for the 750th time! Arrgh!
Anybody know the part number on the Mitsuba relay?
This mod worked flawlessly for a number of months. Absolutely loved it. Had 4 load resistors for the last 5yrs, this was a better idea than generating all that heat.
Then what started to happen is my signals wouldn't work occasionally. (pretty dangerous when making a turn/lane change and you don't realize it till someone is honking at you!) Once you play with them (on/off or play with the hazzards) they'd work again. I pulled the relay and figured it was a solder point, so I applied pressure here and there. The flasher relay worked fine for a few more days.
Then it reached a point now where it doesn't FLASH at all. It will flash ONCE and that's it. If I reactivate the signal from the stalk (on/off) in rapid succession it doesn't work at all. If I wait about .5 sec from the last flash it will flash again ONCE. Same with the hazards, just one flash, then dead. So I've been driving around manually flashing my signals, up/down, up/down, one flash at a time like a dummy, lol.
Yesterday I pulled the relay and totally examined the resistors, resoldered tested and resoldered. Same issue. I think my relay is toast. I don't know if someone else has had this problem but from my reading it seems like I'm the only one.
If I get a new relay I don't want this to happen again and waste $50. I am thinking bout doing those load resistors again. Only problem is trying to get to the front headlight wiring. I'd have to pull my front bumper again for the 750th time! Arrgh!
Anybody know the part number on the Mitsuba relay?
As far as putting back on the load resistors, why are you putting them up front? There's no reason for it and its a lot of work. Put them in the trunk. If you undo the trim pieces on the sides in the trunk (as if you where swapping out the side markers and look above the tail lights you will see a flat platform that is perfect for placing the load resistors (I used adhesive backed velcro). Then you just run the wiring down to the turn signal wires going into the rear tails. I've done this on multiple vehicles and this was my setup when I had the 4 ohm 100 watt resistors on each side (only 1 per side for that load resistor setup).
06-14-2012, 11:35 AM
#809
Good points, the rear is definitely easier to get to, I know exactly where to put them. See, I'm confused with this, I've asked on other threads, and I've never seen a clear answer.
What I did originally is the 50watt 6ohm resistors, one on each corner. probably overkill, but it worked so I didn't ask questions. I know there are other load resistors labeled as needed only 1 per side. So that means if I just connect 2 load resistors just to the rear signals (4ohm 100watt as you mentioned) they will create load for the whole system? If so I am on going to get on to this right now!
What I did originally is the 50watt 6ohm resistors, one on each corner. probably overkill, but it worked so I didn't ask questions. I know there are other load resistors labeled as needed only 1 per side. So that means if I just connect 2 load resistors just to the rear signals (4ohm 100watt as you mentioned) they will create load for the whole system? If so I am on going to get on to this right now!
06-14-2012, 11:47 AM
#810
Just to take VLED's example; they label the 6ohm 50watt resistors are good for 2 bulbs (even though I used 1 for each bulb for a total of 4) and the 3ohm 50watt resistors are good for 4 bulbs. This is the first time I'm hearing about 4ohm 100watt resistors you've mentioned.
I know one thing, if you use 6ohm 50watt resistors on the back signals by themselves without doing the fronts, you will still get hyperflash from the flasher.
I know one thing, if you use 6ohm 50watt resistors on the back signals by themselves without doing the fronts, you will still get hyperflash from the flasher.
06-15-2012, 12:33 PM
#811
Just to take VLED's example; they label the 6ohm 50watt resistors are good for 2 bulbs (even though I used 1 for each bulb for a total of 4) and the 3ohm 50watt resistors are good for 4 bulbs. This is the first time I'm hearing about 4ohm 100watt resistors you've mentioned.
I know one thing, if you use 6ohm 50watt resistors on the back signals by themselves without doing the fronts, you will still get hyperflash from the flasher.
I know one thing, if you use 6ohm 50watt resistors on the back signals by themselves without doing the fronts, you will still get hyperflash from the flasher.
About the time I was looking into getting LEDs put in the front/back a person posted up in one of the threads indicating that they had caculated the draw on the EOM bulbs had on the system versus using 2 3 ohm 50 watt resistors on each side. The use of four 3 ohm load resistors resulted in a higher draw on the circuit (and as such uneccessary heat being generated). He had calculated that the 4 ohm 100 watt resistor not only came in much closer to the stock draw but it also generated less heat and dissapated it better due to the larger heatsink. There was so many people back then that had already used the 3 ohm load resistors that the discussion went back to that and not many people ended up doing the 4 ohm resistors but there are some of us.
As for the install location I was told that by Kennedy (and he could have been the one to figure out the use of the 4 ohm load resistor but can't be certain).
I ran a single 4 ohm 100 watt load resistor on each side for years (until just recently when I did this mod and removed them) with absolutely no problems and no hyper blinking. I run switchbacks up front and normal leds in the back.
If you are interested I still have the two 4 ohm 100 watt load resistors that I took off my car. If they don't work for you I'll take them back.
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rockyfeller (06-15-2012)
06-15-2012, 01:28 PM
#812
OK for everyone's info; the part number for the turn signal/hazzard relay (Mitsuba) is: 38300-SHJ-A04
Nowadays they sell enclosures (VLEDs and others sell em) for the load resistors which encase them but allow ventilation and heat dissipation. I would have preferred to stay with the flahser relay mod, but being forced to buy a new flasher means I'd rather take the safe route this time. My theory is all our electrical systems are slightly different due to what mods we've done hence the quirks on some cars. My car has a hefty sound system and all regular bulbs replaced. Everything is LED or HID. Puddle lights, door sills, lights in the subs, headrest monitors, pretty ridiculous. There is alterations in load/resistance etc. and alterations to the wiring all over the place. The more stock your car is, the less potential problems.
Buda, thanks man. I'll PM you.
Nowadays they sell enclosures (VLEDs and others sell em) for the load resistors which encase them but allow ventilation and heat dissipation. I would have preferred to stay with the flahser relay mod, but being forced to buy a new flasher means I'd rather take the safe route this time. My theory is all our electrical systems are slightly different due to what mods we've done hence the quirks on some cars. My car has a hefty sound system and all regular bulbs replaced. Everything is LED or HID. Puddle lights, door sills, lights in the subs, headrest monitors, pretty ridiculous. There is alterations in load/resistance etc. and alterations to the wiring all over the place. The more stock your car is, the less potential problems.
Buda, thanks man. I'll PM you.
Last edited by rockyfeller; 06-15-2012 at 01:37 PM.
06-18-2012, 04:11 PM
#815
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^^^ 2 ???
i should be good enough....am using 1 x -.22ohm resistor...
i should be good enough....am using 1 x -.22ohm resistor...
06-18-2012, 04:45 PM
#816
Engineer in Training
My 120 switchback from autolumination just came in today and I plan on getting RED LED turns for the rear eventually. So what I'm going to do is solder in 2 .24ohm resistors in parallel. This way when I get the rears in I'll just have to remove one of the resistors and i'm done. This way I don't have to touch the solder connection on the PCB.
06-18-2012, 04:47 PM
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^^^ ok you got me there 
i have LED's upfront and in the rear (all 4 corners) and i used (this mod in the thread) to get rid of the hyperblinking by using 1 x 0.22 OHM resistor in the relay....
if you dont wanna touch the relay and use some other method in all honestly dont crap the thread up....this is a thread to eliminate hyper blinking without using load resistors by modifying the RELAY !!!
i have LED's upfront and in the rear (all 4 corners) and i used (this mod in the thread) to get rid of the hyperblinking by using 1 x 0.22 OHM resistor in the relay....
if you dont wanna touch the relay and use some other method in all honestly dont crap the thread up....this is a thread to eliminate hyper blinking without using load resistors by modifying the RELAY !!!
06-18-2012, 05:00 PM
#818
Engineer in Training
^^^ ok you got me there
i have LED's upfront and in the rear (all 4 corners) and i used (this mod in the thread) to get rid of the hyperblinking by using 1 x 0.22 OHM resistor in the relay....
if you dont wanna touch the relay and use some other method in all honestly dont crap the thread up....this is a thread to eliminate hyper blinking without using load resistors by modifying the RELAY !!!
i have LED's upfront and in the rear (all 4 corners) and i used (this mod in the thread) to get rid of the hyperblinking by using 1 x 0.22 OHM resistor in the relay....
if you dont wanna touch the relay and use some other method in all honestly dont crap the thread up....this is a thread to eliminate hyper blinking without using load resistors by modifying the RELAY !!!
um, i'm not sure how I'm crapping the thread, i am afterall modifying the flasher relay in almost the same way everyone else is doing with the difference being that instead of adding a resistor later on I'd only be removing one.
06-18-2012, 05:50 PM
#819
Uh... Why don't you just solder a 0.22 (or 0.24) ohm resistor in and simply call it a day?
If you only have LEDs in the front right now and stock halogens in the rear, a 0.24 is still enough to run the front LED with no hyperflash while still having the rear halogens flash normally.
When you upgrade to LEDs in the rear than just simply swap the halogen out for the LED rear turn signal and that's it. No need to go back to the relay to "remove" the extra resistor that you soldered...
1 and done.
Using 2 resistors just to run 1 pair of LEDs is a hassle.. Use 1 resistor and you can run all halogens, 1 pair LED, or even 2 pairs. Make sure the resistor is 0.22-0.24OHMs
If you only have LEDs in the front right now and stock halogens in the rear, a 0.24 is still enough to run the front LED with no hyperflash while still having the rear halogens flash normally.
When you upgrade to LEDs in the rear than just simply swap the halogen out for the LED rear turn signal and that's it. No need to go back to the relay to "remove" the extra resistor that you soldered...
1 and done.
Using 2 resistors just to run 1 pair of LEDs is a hassle.. Use 1 resistor and you can run all halogens, 1 pair LED, or even 2 pairs. Make sure the resistor is 0.22-0.24OHMs
06-18-2012, 05:54 PM
#820
Engineer in Training
Uh... Why don't you just solder a 0.22 (or 0.24) ohm resistor in and simply call it a day?
If you only have LEDs in the front right now and stock halogens in the rear, a 0.24 is still enough to run the front LED with no hyperflash while still having the rear halogens flash normally.
When you upgrade to LEDs in the rear than just simply swap the halogen out for the LED rear turn signal and that's it. No need to go back to the relay to "remove" the extra resistor that you soldered...
1 and done.
Using 2 resistors just to run 1 pair of LEDs is a hassle.. Use 1 resistor and you can run all halogens, 1 pair LED, or even 2 pairs. Make sure the resistor is 0.22-0.24OHMs
If you only have LEDs in the front right now and stock halogens in the rear, a 0.24 is still enough to run the front LED with no hyperflash while still having the rear halogens flash normally.
When you upgrade to LEDs in the rear than just simply swap the halogen out for the LED rear turn signal and that's it. No need to go back to the relay to "remove" the extra resistor that you soldered...
1 and done.
Using 2 resistors just to run 1 pair of LEDs is a hassle.. Use 1 resistor and you can run all halogens, 1 pair LED, or even 2 pairs. Make sure the resistor is 0.22-0.24OHMs
) that someone had trouble with a .22/.24ohm resistor with only LEDs up front and halogens in the rear until he also put LEDs in the rear. I think it was RockStar if I remember correctly.
06-18-2012, 09:37 PM
#822
Engineer in Training
yes you're right, I meant 7443...not 7440...I'm very aware of the difference since you'll recall the issue I had with the whites no turning off when the amber would blink (like the sidemarker blinking issue).
Anyway, in MY case...the ebay bulbs I used would NOT switch"back" correctly UNTIL I put in the rear LED's too. Just my experience and I started off with the .24 ohm resistor.
Anyway, in MY case...the ebay bulbs I used would NOT switch"back" correctly UNTIL I put in the rear LED's too. Just my experience and I started off with the .24 ohm resistor.
06-18-2012, 10:30 PM
#823
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well if you are getting the rear LED's later why not just get em now and avoid redoing the whole thing was my point 
06-18-2012, 11:42 PM
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^^^ now it makes sooo much more sense 
06-19-2012, 07:59 AM
#826
Engineer in Training
yeah, he PMed me about it lol, Either way I can make it work.
06-19-2012, 09:05 AM
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^^^ 
getting the relay out is a pain in the ASSSSSS !!!! but yeah i get what you are saying
getting the relay out is a pain in the ASSSSSS !!!! but yeah i get what you are saying
06-19-2012, 09:33 AM
#828
Engineer in Training
I don't see what the big deal is, iv'e gotten it out a few times already to have a look at it. Maybe people don't see where they should be applying pressure. When I get around to doing it once I have the resistors I'll have to remember to take pictures to show people where to squeeze to make it a little easier.
06-19-2012, 05:33 PM
#829
Advanced
06-19-2012, 05:46 PM
#830
Lockdots...1, definitely true, much easier once you know WHERE to pinch...but mine was a bitch to get out, plus...my clutch is right in the way, so probably much less clearance than you auto guys.
About the $2 shipped...that's a nice offer...people should jump on that. Still working flawlessly.
About the $2 shipped...that's a nice offer...people should jump on that. Still working flawlessly.
06-20-2012, 08:04 AM
#831
2007 6SMT Type-S
I'm selling my pair of rear red LED's. I couldn't get this mod to work with my stock relay, had sucess with the second one for about 5 months but then my right turn signal would stay on even with the key out of the ignition. Had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop.
Anyone want my red LED's? $20.00 shipped. Text me if you want a pic (801) 915-1350
It's not a pain in the ass. You just need the right tool for the job. I have a clutch pedal in the way but I was still able to get mine out with a pair of vice grips...took a whole 10 seconds. Just SLOWLY increase the tension and test it before you decide to fully lock them down on the relay. If the tension is too high, you'll crack your relay.
Anyone want my red LED's? $20.00 shipped. Text me if you want a pic (801) 915-1350
It's not a pain in the ass. You just need the right tool for the job. I have a clutch pedal in the way but I was still able to get mine out with a pair of vice grips...took a whole 10 seconds. Just SLOWLY increase the tension and test it before you decide to fully lock them down on the relay. If the tension is too high, you'll crack your relay.
06-20-2012, 09:27 AM
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^^^ lol no shit...pinching in the right place is the key....the point i was making is, its tough for a relay....it took me a good minute the first time around and 15-20 seconds the second time around....but either way, point is no reason for doing this twice when its not needed....
i rather spend the time to take the relay out and solder and put it back in (5-7 minutes) doing something else....i dont like redoing my mods
i rather spend the time to take the relay out and solder and put it back in (5-7 minutes) doing something else....i dont like redoing my mods
06-21-2012, 02:32 PM
#835
2007 6SMT Type-S
I did my 1st time around. Second time I put my vice grips into their "locked" position, tightened, "unlocked" and tightened a quarter turn. "Locked" them down around the relay and it pulled out with ease. IMO, vise grips are the way to go. I spent a good 20 minutes the first time around with screw drivers, pliers, etc. b4 I went to the vice grips. Problem is by that time I was pissed and was over zealous with clamping down on them.
06-24-2012, 02:39 PM
#840
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I was running a 0.12 ohm with just switchbacks and got weird blinking as far as the white coming on with type 2's.
I just installed rear LED blinkers without changing the resistor yet and have no hyper flash. I have a .24 ohm laying around if I encounter trouble but as for now I will run the .12 until then.
Will report back and see what happens.
I just installed rear LED blinkers without changing the resistor yet and have no hyper flash. I have a .24 ohm laying around if I encounter trouble but as for now I will run the .12 until then.
Will report back and see what happens.