95oRANGEcRUSH

Crap quality but here you go:

BSpecialist

cn.store has good prices and good quality stuff. he's the seller i referred to.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Vinsanity, seems like it was easy enough to solder in and to solder out...so put the little shunt bar back in and see if ALL your issues go away! I wish you luck!



I HATE electrical gremlins. Let us know if this solves the problem please!

J.

PS...GP, I soldered in my resistor last week, everything working as normal so far...waiting on the switchbacks to show up!

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

woot woot!

great to hear =)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Dude...the HARDEST part of this mod was getting that effin module out! Guess why...stupid fkn clutch assembly is in the way for us 6 speeders. BUT, that said, the soldering was SUPER simple...touch the torch to the underside and put the switch in a vise, then just pull the bar out...and then reverse to reinstall.

PS>..I forgot which one you sold me...(or GAVE me, I should say...thanks again). The .24 one that allows to use LED front AND rear? Or just the fronts? I know the colors on the resistor were NOT the same as the original poster...but I followed the gold ring being closest to all the plugs like the pics.

95oRANGEcRUSH

I broke both of the tabs that hold the module in. Even then, it still was a bitch to pull it out. The grey plastic housing is all jacked on mine, too. But, I really couldn't care less as you can't see it when it's installed and even with both tabs broken, it's not coming out by accident.

I also replaced my backlight illumination bulb in the driver's side heated seat switch tonight. Replacing the bulb for the seat switch was more of a pain in the ass than the shunt resistor mod.

Azndjay

anyone need this done let me know , i have an extra relay and resistor that i can solder in ..i will only charge you for what the relay i bought for honda cost. pm me

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I sent you a .24 ohm resistor so your car is ready for front LEDs, rear LEDs, or both!

All you have to do now if you want rear LEDs is to buy the LED and replace the bulb > not going to hyperflash on you =)

The colours on Roger555's resistor is not the same because his resistor is only .12 ohm.

stavebomb

Wait wait wait...are the 7443 bulbs supposed to be used in the rear, and the 1157 bulbs in the front?

95oRANGEcRUSH

1157 go in the fronts. 7440 go in the rears.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

If you have a base TL it's 7443 for the fronts =)

And as stated above, 7440 for the rears on any 3G TL

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Right! I actually bought a set of switchbacks and led rears once, and I sold them to Dave ddw...

Behind the amber diffuser the white looked like green! AND, at the time I didn't think the LED's made a big difference with the turn signals. I might go for it again though now that I have ZERO hyperflash in my future. THanks again!

About the relay coming out, broke 1 tab...and YES it was a bitch to get out and the grey housing, yep, used pliers to help and cracked that too, but again, like you said, you'll never see it.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

Ha! I'm still rocking them with load resistors, too! I have my new relay resistors, but have to schedule a day to UNinstall the loaders! Ugh.
I'm also the guy that REbadged his rear with the Heeltoe Black Chrome Emblems!
GF thinks I'm insane. Mmmmmmmaybe!

italiancip14

i dont get how to solder these. do you solder it from the back? I really wanna do this mod, just not sure how to do it exactly since i've never soldered anything before. Do you solder it from the back where the brain is, or do you solder it where the copper piece is? Some pics of the back and/or a video of someone doing it would be awesome. Thanks guys, and great job Roger.

also does anyone have one that i can buy. just need one for the front signals. Thanks

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

You solder it from the back.

What you're doing is replacing the EXISTING shunt resistor and you can see where it's soldered from.

Common sense would tell you that where you melted the solder to remove the shunt resistor is where you'd want to solder the new resistor =)

Good luck.

italiancip14

thanks for your help, could have done without the dick comment. never soldered before and didn't wanna ruin something. thanks

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

It wasn't a dick comment at all... Alot of us never even held a solder gun prior to doing this mod just like you.

But if you look at the picture in the first post



You can clearly see all the melted solder on the under side.... The top of the relay doesn't have a single drop of any melted solder material, so as GP said, common sense would tell you to solder it on the under side, just like how the rest of the board is soldered and just as how you removed the shunt resistor

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

No problem.

I've never soldered before, either.

sauceja

iTrader: (2)

We all have bad days before. My first soldering experience was taking 2 engine harness and splicing them together to put a B16 into a 89 crx.

Levels of uncertainty and exploring new territories raises stress and excitement levels.

If you have read any of the previous pages you would have noticed this thread is all about helping and sharing experiences and knowledge. If you take comments wrong thats not our fault.

If you look at the top of the board you will see the shunt resistor like on 1st page. If you follow that onto the underside of board like picture above. Just heat those 2 points up until shunt comes out and you may have to heat 1 up and pull it out a little and repeat to other side and kind of walk it out. Thats what I ended up doing. Then install resistors with colors facing the correct way (it does matter) and carefully solder them into place. I put mine closer to board and use nail clippers to cut excess wire off.
You want to heat up wire and touch solder to wire to get a good solder job. You do NOT want to touch solder iron to solder and let it melt into place if all possible. That is referred to as a cold solder and will not give continuity like you want and may cause future problems.

Howstuffworks.com is a good tool and google things if not sure. Practice on something that is not valuable to get your feet wet if needed.

Soldering is not complicated but agreed a little nerve racking at first especially on boards.

Good luck!!!!!

italiancip14

anyone have a extra .24 Ohms 1 watt resistor i can buy? don't really wanna buy 10 and be stuck with them.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

oh...AND, don't touch the soldering gun to the solder itself...just put it on the tip of the shunt resistor...this transfers enough heat to allow you to pull it out in one fell swoop.

I actually carefully put my relay in a vice, had soldering iron in left hand and pair of needlenose pliers in the other!

HQTL6SPD

Anybody have an extra .24 ohm 1W resister? Plz pm me if you do.

stavebomb

I have kind of been on and off this thread for a while now, and my issues are continuing. My interior lights, front turn signals/parking lights, tail lights, and license plate lights aren't working. I found a 10 amp fuse under the hood in the 4th spot labeled "small lights" to be blown. Prior to this issue, my switchbacks seems to have been failing. Do you think that they could be ruined and are causing power surges? I replaced the fuse and the lights turned on for a split second and then the fuse blew instantly. I am thinking about converting to just amber LEDs. Any suggestions with regards to where to buy them so they last longer than 10 days? I currently have the 7443 60 LED switchbacks from autolumination.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That's very possible...I'd start by removing whatever bulb you BELIEVE to be the culprit and see if that keeps your fuse from blowing.

I had a similar issue with my #6 fuse under the driver dash...but this one killed lights and keyless entry and alarm. Unrelated to this mod, but I'd start there. This mod here, REALLY shouldn't cause these problems as it's a pass thru of electricity (or resistance to it) so it's not like it's introducing any new funky voltages.

J.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Okay, so in terms of reliability and quality, elef bulbs are what you're looking for hands down. They're like the "not-so-famous" premium brand of LEDs lol.
Roger555 has it on his car and they're pretty bright too!

In terms of brightness, I can't really tell you to be honest.

My 120 LED amber bulbs from autolumination are bright as hell.
Pretty close to the original halogen bulb.
These are my first LEDs so I don't know how to compare them in brightness to ours.

I feel like just buying a whole bunch of LEDs out there such as elefs, vleds, ebay, etc and comparing them to see which one is the brightest, and then sell them all afterward claiming only used for 1 minute to test brightness LOL

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

GP...again...thank you for the resistor.

Installed my switchbacks today and NO friggin hyperblinking.

In addition...I bought some switchbacks from ebay. Yes, ebay...the guy had a few on "buy it now" for $45 shipped and a few auctions starting at $32. Well, I set my alarm for 130am the other night to win the auction and guess what...my stupid azz was on AZ and missed it by 2 seconds. Literally. So I submitted a "best offer" of $32 and he accepted.

120 LED...40 white and 80 Amber...

Let me just tell you this thing is MUCH brighter than stock...I mean, when I turn on the parking lights it friggin lights up the wall ahead of it and you couldn't even tell my ambers were on before. I will say I almost cried because I thought they wouldn't work because they were too thick (what she said?)...but I had to wiggle it and turn it and it went in, but barely.

If y'all want the link, here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280743831720...84.m1439.l2649

Also, I will mention that I would have preferred type II's...but good luck finding affordable AND bright AND type II switchbacks...

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Ah yes finally!!!!

By your descriptions, they sound bright!

Care to take a vid?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I sure will...probably tonight.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

beed eeOOO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58EcV...ature=youtu.be

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

y otro...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Jmmf...ature=youtu.be

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

PS...you lighting gurus out there...when our oem 7443 bulb is working...does the lower voltage filament (parking light) cut off when the higher voltage (turn signal) kicks in?

I was under the impression that when signaling, the white should turn off and alternate with the amber, not stay running with it.

Thanks.

J.

stavebomb

This mod works with any LED style, right? So it works the same with 120 LED and 60 LED bulbs? I'm trying to get autolumination to exchange my busted bulbs. The lady keeps telling me that 60 LED and up require load resistors or else they will fail.

italiancip14

can someone just verify which one of these is the correct one, not sure if the minor differences will cause it to not work. i want to order the correct ones..

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...24TB-ND/595360

OR

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...24CT-ND/596566

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Wish I could help you bud, I'm sure someone else will chime in.

I have a problem of my own...

SOOO...the image above, if you notice, when I turn on my signal WITH my parking light...the whites do not dim/alternate at all. The whites stay on full bright while signalling. When the engine is off, it doesn't have this problem...namely, the whites DO dim when amber switches on. All other functionality is normal...whites light up for parking and when off, the amber blinks the way it should. This got me thinking it might be a voltage thing.

Anyone think this resistor mod could be the cause? Could maybe adding the rear LED's balance it out and cause it to work normally? I put in the .24's and am waiting on some rear LED's to come in. I also will try and swap with a friend to see if it does it in his car since he hasn't done this mod. It'll hyperblink but I'd like to see if it cuts the white like it should.

So basically, I have a type I that will not cut off the light to the white leds.

BSpecialist

I always thought the Type 1's kept the same brightness of white when it alternates between amber and white. When the car is off, it could just be drawing too much current and dimming? Not sure, but like I said...the first Type 1 Switchback video I watched on youtube showed that the white did not dim down while flashing.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hmmm...well, if that's the case, I may have to go the type II route. We shall see...when it DOES dim the white a little, it does the switchback look a lot more pronounced and you can distinctly see the amber. I can't figure it out.

J.

xavier25

The difference between your two links is that the first requires you to purchase a minimum quantity of 1000.

The resistors in the second link should work. I purchased the resistors in the link below, which I believe are just a different manufacturer/brand than your second link.

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...CCT-ND/2059057

Deerole

I actually dont have a problem witht he hyper flashing. i like it lol

HQTL6SPD

OK just installed my 120 led bulbs from Autolumination. For the resister, I went with this:


Now I have an odd problem, the turn signal nor the hazards work at all. The green arrows don't even show up in the guages like normal. I fully removed the shunt resister and soldered on the new one as per DIY.

What would you guys recommend I do here?

Could .24 ohms be too much for just the front blinkers? (Unless these are actully 24ohms and not .24, which I'm starting to fear they are...)

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

^^Sorry to hear about your problem.

.24ohms is NOT too much for just the front blinkers.

I'm running .24ohm AND I'm running the same bulbs you bought (Autolumination 120 LED).

You sure you clicked the relay in right and everything?