G-031: [DIY] Accord Fogs with Type-S Grills on '04-'06 TL
#201
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#203
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#205
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Just wanted to say thank you for the great write up! 20 hours over two days later the install is done and looks great ill be posting up some pics when this rain stops and i can clean her up...
It may be somewhere in this thread but I did get stumped on the wiring since it doesnt specify which end to splice the wiring to but I was able to figure it out ...just a suggestion for future diy'ers.. also I'm a little disappointed with the light output and am thinking about adding an hid kit but read that it blinds other drivers. Im assuming this is because the metal shroud in the housing doesnt cover the tip of the bulb and im thinking about modifying the shroud by adding a sort of "cap" to it. Has anyone done this?
It may be somewhere in this thread but I did get stumped on the wiring since it doesnt specify which end to splice the wiring to but I was able to figure it out ...just a suggestion for future diy'ers.. also I'm a little disappointed with the light output and am thinking about adding an hid kit but read that it blinds other drivers. Im assuming this is because the metal shroud in the housing doesnt cover the tip of the bulb and im thinking about modifying the shroud by adding a sort of "cap" to it. Has anyone done this?
#206
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Just wanted to say thank you for the great write up! 20 hours over two days later the install is done and looks great ill be posting up some pics when this rain stops and i can clean her up...
It may be somewhere in this thread but I did get stumped on the wiring since it doesnt specify which end to splice the wiring to but I was able to figure it out ...just a suggestion for future diy'ers.. also I'm a little disappointed with the light output and am thinking about adding an hid kit but read that it blinds other drivers. Im assuming this is because the metal shroud in the housing doesnt cover the tip of the bulb and im thinking about modifying the shroud by adding a sort of "cap" to it. Has anyone done this?
It may be somewhere in this thread but I did get stumped on the wiring since it doesnt specify which end to splice the wiring to but I was able to figure it out ...just a suggestion for future diy'ers.. also I'm a little disappointed with the light output and am thinking about adding an hid kit but read that it blinds other drivers. Im assuming this is because the metal shroud in the housing doesnt cover the tip of the bulb and im thinking about modifying the shroud by adding a sort of "cap" to it. Has anyone done this?
Let's see the pictures!
If they're pointing forward and aimed downwards, you WON'T have a problem glaring people.
Again, I can tell you how the install was when you post pictures =)
#207
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Yea i took alot of time trimming them so they aim as forward as possible and the cut off is nice and even across and easily adjusted by the adjustment knob. Ill post pics asap
But dont hid bulbs put out light from the end also? The oem bulb has a coating on the tip to keep light from coming through but if i reremember right the hid bulbs dont have that?
But dont hid bulbs put out light from the end also? The oem bulb has a coating on the tip to keep light from coming through but if i reremember right the hid bulbs dont have that?
Last edited by 04TL4P3; 02-19-2012 at 08:48 PM.
#208
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Yea i took alot of time trimming them so they aim as forward as possible and the cut off is nice and even across and easily adjusted by the adjustment knob. Ill post pics asap
But dont hid bulbs put out light from the end also? The oem bulb has a coating on the tip to keep light from coming through but if i reremember right the hid bulbs dont have that?
But dont hid bulbs put out light from the end also? The oem bulb has a coating on the tip to keep light from coming through but if i reremember right the hid bulbs dont have that?
Most people on here run HIDs with their accord fogs.
Luckily your fogs are OEM and have a glare shield to help with the glare.
You also followed my DIY to mount the fogs properly whereas MANY people have their fogs pointing way outwards which blinds a lot of people.
#209
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I posted this in another thread that had an error, but I know this one gets more traffic for install so I will post it here to hopefully help someone out. OP in this thread did a very good job explaining how to wire the switch using wire colors but I think it is a little hard to follow if you don't have the same colors, I will try to explain a little better what each wire is actually doing. If you look at the switch going down all for prongs here is how it should be wired. The colors are just how my harness was the order is more important then color. Make sure you are not looking at your plug upside down.
1. Blue- Ground for the switch and indicator light aka the flat bar light on the switch
2. Red/Black- tap into another red/black wire on any other switch (I used the VSA switch) this will be the positive feed for the interior light, the light which lights up the fog light symbol when headlights (not fog lights) are on.
3. Blue- Ground, this grounds the interior light
4. Green- This is the trigger wire for the relay
5. Red/Black- This wire is the positive which will feed the trigger wire, you have two options if you want the fogs to only come on when headlights are on tap this into the same wire as #2, if you want independent fogs tap this into any wire that has power when the vehicle is running.
It seems sort of illogical to make red and blue ground and red/black power. With a weak ground it may actually work in reverse, but I was running into an issue that my indicator light would stay on all the time, and sometime the fogs would stay on after I turned the switch off. This was because if it is wired backwards you effectively bypass the switch with a weak ground. The ground on the sub frame will run through the fog lights, through the relay, through the indicator light and to the power. Wiring it how I described will be consistent with how the rest of the car is wired and will not cause any complications.
In case anyone is confused about how to wire the relay i will break that down as well, when looking at the relay mine had four prongs:
1 2
3 4
1. constant power from the fuse box or battery
2. Trigger wire from the switch
3. Power wire to the fogs
4. Ground
If you want to make sure your relay is the same test for continuity there should only be continuity between two prongs these should be the trigger and ground. It doesn't matter which one you use, the other two are the power and the feed to the fogs, once again it doesn't matter which you choose.Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
If anyone has any questions send me a pm I can explain the wiring pretty simply for those who find it confusing.
1. Blue- Ground for the switch and indicator light aka the flat bar light on the switch
2. Red/Black- tap into another red/black wire on any other switch (I used the VSA switch) this will be the positive feed for the interior light, the light which lights up the fog light symbol when headlights (not fog lights) are on.
3. Blue- Ground, this grounds the interior light
4. Green- This is the trigger wire for the relay
5. Red/Black- This wire is the positive which will feed the trigger wire, you have two options if you want the fogs to only come on when headlights are on tap this into the same wire as #2, if you want independent fogs tap this into any wire that has power when the vehicle is running.
It seems sort of illogical to make red and blue ground and red/black power. With a weak ground it may actually work in reverse, but I was running into an issue that my indicator light would stay on all the time, and sometime the fogs would stay on after I turned the switch off. This was because if it is wired backwards you effectively bypass the switch with a weak ground. The ground on the sub frame will run through the fog lights, through the relay, through the indicator light and to the power. Wiring it how I described will be consistent with how the rest of the car is wired and will not cause any complications.
In case anyone is confused about how to wire the relay i will break that down as well, when looking at the relay mine had four prongs:
1 2
3 4
1. constant power from the fuse box or battery
2. Trigger wire from the switch
3. Power wire to the fogs
4. Ground
If you want to make sure your relay is the same test for continuity there should only be continuity between two prongs these should be the trigger and ground. It doesn't matter which one you use, the other two are the power and the feed to the fogs, once again it doesn't matter which you choose.Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
If anyone has any questions send me a pm I can explain the wiring pretty simply for those who find it confusing.
#210
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^^^ good info but I had to read it a couple of times to get it lol...finally took some pics even though I still havent cleaned her up. Im ordering an hid kit and will be touching up some things while i have the bumper off because my aspec kit has come away from the bumper near the fog light...other than that I love with the lights!
I know it looks like you can see the upper edge of the fog housing in some of the pics but this is only because I took them from a low angle. So basically unless you are 3' tall it looks flush from every angle and actually sits just inside the edge of the bumper enjoy!
I know it looks like you can see the upper edge of the fog housing in some of the pics but this is only because I took them from a low angle. So basically unless you are 3' tall it looks flush from every angle and actually sits just inside the edge of the bumper enjoy!
#211
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Wow, nice job!
You install looked exactly like mine so I thought I was looking at my car LOL
You install looked exactly like mine so I thought I was looking at my car LOL
#213
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Question, I like leaving my lights on so the fogs blink and turn on when I unlock the car but im getting annoyed by the chime that lets u know ur lights are on when u turn the car off. I want to know how I can disable the chime since I think its pointless with lights that turn off automatically... has anyone done this?
#214
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Question, I like leaving my lights on so the fogs blink and turn on when I unlock the car but im getting annoyed by the chime that lets u know ur lights are on when u turn the car off. I want to know how I can disable the chime since I think its pointless with lights that turn off automatically... has anyone done this?
#217
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MY whole project took me a week, working bit by bit and being a wussy.
It can be done in like 6 hours.
I did fogs for a member on here in a day which took like 6 hours.
If you need help, just let me know.
I'm not too far from you
It can be done in like 6 hours.
I did fogs for a member on here in a day which took like 6 hours.
If you need help, just let me know.
I'm not too far from you
#218
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Yea it took me about 6 hours to trim the first fog i did and the other side took about 2 hours. Then o still had to cut the grills and figure out a way to mount the fogs so that the light would point forward and i would still be able to aim them how i wanted. Its LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS of cut and fit , cut and fit. I felt like giving up at one point so i called it a day and when i went back to it the next day I was much more productive. Make sure you take a break when u get frustrated cuz thats when u get careless! It took me around 20 hours to complete everything
#219
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Ok, fellas I have had accord fogs for the longest time but they weren't wired correctly. I ordered a new set and just went out to my car to put things in perspective after reading the DIY. I want to go the route where the fogs are totally independent(tapping into wiper) as opposed the park light method. After pulling the panels apart I notice a bunch of wire taps that are no longer functional. It looks like the previous owner had an alarm system. My aim here is to find a "constant" wire on the inside here as opposed to the wiper wire under the hood. Any ideas?
#221
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Ok, fellas I have had accord fogs for the longest time but they weren't wired correctly. I ordered a new set and just went out to my car to put things in perspective after reading the DIY. I want to go the route where the fogs are totally independent(tapping into wiper) as opposed the park light method. After pulling the panels apart I notice a bunch of wire taps that are no longer functional. It looks like the previous owner had an alarm system. My aim here is to find a "constant" wire on the inside here as opposed to the wiper wire under the hood. Any ideas?
#223
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I would just wire the trigger wire from the switch out to the engine bay and tap into the motor wire though haha
#224
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I am lost here. If I use a constant source I need add a fuse correct? Isn't the wiper motor wire a constant source as opposed the park lights? Why wouldnt I need one here? Basically what I want to achieve is if I'm rolling down the freeway in the daytime, I want to be able to hit the fog switch and light comes on without any other lights being on.
Last edited by TLDude876; 02-26-2012 at 01:16 PM.
#225
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You can wire your trigger in different ways as you know.
Parking lights = tap into parking light wire.
Add-a-fuse is a device used so that you can tap into a fuse that provides constant power.
The wiper motor wire you just tap into with your trigger wire.
This is an add a fuse:
Don't confuse add-a-fuse with an inline fuse LOL
#226
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Thanks for the explanation GP! So my next question is, how is the wiper motor wire different from the parking light wire? My thinking is that the wiper comes on when you hit the switch and the same for parking lights? What makes the wiper motor wire always have power?
#227
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I think guitar player may be talking about using the wiper wire or parking light wire to actually trigger the relay to make the lights come on. I think you (tldude) are talking about finding a for the switch that will let you turn the lights on whenever you want. If this is the case all you need to do is a find a wire that has 12v when the car is on and nothing when the car is off. Get a volmeter out (there is no excuse not to have a voltmeter even a cheapo walmart one is better than nothing) Find a wire that you want to tap into, turn the car on and make sure the wire has 12v turn the car off and make sure the wire has no power. Or if you want to use add a fuse instead of tapping into a wire pull a fuse and put the lead for the voltmeter on the top prong ... see if it gets constant power only when the car is on. When your just using the wire to power the relay it really doesn't matter what you tap into since there will be almost no draw. BTW an old trick i learned was if you find a wire and you want to test if it has power but can't access an end instead of peeling insulation back just find a safety pin and poke it into the wire and put your lead on the safety pin.
Add a fuse is not different than tapping into a wire, the only thing is it is much cleaner and easier to remove if you ever decide to get rid of the fogs. Also it makes it much less likely that you could screw something up, splicing into random wires especially if you do it incorrectly can have consequences.
Add a fuse is not different than tapping into a wire, the only thing is it is much cleaner and easier to remove if you ever decide to get rid of the fogs. Also it makes it much less likely that you could screw something up, splicing into random wires especially if you do it incorrectly can have consequences.
Last edited by joelmatt89; 02-26-2012 at 01:47 PM.
#228
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I think guitar player may be talking about using the wiper wire or parking light wire to actually trigger the relay to make the lights come on. I think you (tldude) are talking about finding a for the switch that will let you turn the lights on whenever you want. If this is the case all you need to do is a find a wire that has 12v when the car is on and nothing when the car is off. Get a volmeter out (there is no excuse not to have a voltmeter even a cheapo walmart one is better than nothing) Find a wire that you want to tap into, turn the car on and make sure the wire has 12v turn the car off and make sure the wire has no power. Or if you want to use add a fuse instead of tapping into a wire pull a fuse and put the lead for the voltmeter on the top prong ... see if it gets constant power only when the car is on. When your just using the wire to power the relay it really doesn't matter what you tap into since there will be almost no draw. BTW an old trick i learned was if you find a wire and you want to test if it has power but can't access an end instead of peeling insulation back just find a safety pin and poke it into the wire and put your lead on the safety pin.
#229
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Think of it as your fogs wanting to steal power to work.
Your wiper motor wire has a constant power supply when your key is in.
If the fogs are tapped to the wiper motor wire, it takes the power and brings it to the fog switch where you can set to switch on or off your fogs.
The fog switch has nothing to do with how the wipers function, it only steals the power from the wipers.
When the car is off, no key in the ignition, your fogs are like "i need power to power" but there's no power going through the wiper motor wire for it to steal from.
Now when it comes to tapping from the parking lights:
When your parking lights are off, and your fogs are tapped into the parking light wire, the fogs say "turn me on give me power!" but theres no power running through the parking lights so no power for the fogs.
When you switch on your parking lights or low beam, theres power now flowing through the parking light wire so the fog lights say "SWEET there's power for me to turn on!" so your fogs turn on if the fog switch is on.
Tapping into the parking light wire relies on the parking lights to be on for your fogs to turn on whereas the wiper motor wire relies on the key to be in for your fogs to turn on.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 02-26-2012 at 01:50 PM.
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TLDude876 (02-26-2012)
#230
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Well i went into a bunch of detail a few posts up but i used an add a fuse to get constant power. I honestly don't even remember where I put the add a fuse since I used the same one I already had one there for my sub woofer remote wire. If you have a voltmeter it should take you about two minutes to find a fuse that will have constant power when the car is running. Really all you need to do is a find something on your car that only works when the car is running and find its fuse then put the add a fuse there. Seat heaters would probably work.
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TLDude876 (02-26-2012)
#231
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No no LOL
Think of it as your fogs wanting to steal power to work.
Your wiper motor wire has a constant power supply when your key is in.
If the fogs are tapped to the wiper motor wire, it takes the power and brings it to the fog switch where you can set to switch on or off your fogs.
The fog switch has nothing to do with how the wipers function, it only steals the power from the wipers.
When the car is off, no key in the ignition, your fogs are like "i need power to power" but there's no power going through the wiper motor wire for it to steal from.
Now when it comes to tapping from the parking lights:
When your parking lights are off, and your fogs are tapped into the parking light wire, the fogs say "turn me on give me power!" but theres no power running through the parking lights so no power for the fogs.
When you switch on your parking lights or low beam, theres power now flowing through the parking light wire so the fog lights say "SWEET there's power for me to turn on!" so your fogs turn on if the fog switch is on.
Tapping into the parking light wire relies on the parking lights to be on for your fogs to turn on whereas the wiper motor wire relies on the key to be in for your fogs to turn on.
Think of it as your fogs wanting to steal power to work.
Your wiper motor wire has a constant power supply when your key is in.
If the fogs are tapped to the wiper motor wire, it takes the power and brings it to the fog switch where you can set to switch on or off your fogs.
The fog switch has nothing to do with how the wipers function, it only steals the power from the wipers.
When the car is off, no key in the ignition, your fogs are like "i need power to power" but there's no power going through the wiper motor wire for it to steal from.
Now when it comes to tapping from the parking lights:
When your parking lights are off, and your fogs are tapped into the parking light wire, the fogs say "turn me on give me power!" but theres no power running through the parking lights so no power for the fogs.
When you switch on your parking lights or low beam, theres power now flowing through the parking light wire so the fog lights say "SWEET there's power for me to turn on!" so your fogs turn on if the fog switch is on.
Tapping into the parking light wire relies on the parking lights to be on for your fogs to turn on whereas the wiper motor wire relies on the key to be in for your fogs to turn on.
#232
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Green =)
#234
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Yes =)
#235
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Just reading through your posts tldude i think ur getting messed up because of the relay. Your fog light harness actually uses two power sources, one constant power source which supplies the main power and a second power source which acts as a trigger on the relay and allows the first main power source to make it to the actual foglights...it would be much easier to explain with a picture lol
#236
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relays have 4 channels:
1, 12v fused power
2, trigger (when this comes ON, you can then switch whatever you're putting the relay on on...wiper, the green wire, has power as soon as you turn on the car)
3, ground
4, output to whatever you're installing (in this case, the fogs).
1, 12v fused power
2, trigger (when this comes ON, you can then switch whatever you're putting the relay on on...wiper, the green wire, has power as soon as you turn on the car)
3, ground
4, output to whatever you're installing (in this case, the fogs).
#238
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If you wired your switch harness as explained through my DIY, all you need to do to illuminate the switch is to tap some wires to the VSA switch.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=80
OR follow NSXCessive's switch harness wiring guide.
Read over it carefully, as I have not tried wiring mine this way LOL
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=123
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 02-29-2012 at 09:13 PM.
#240
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PM NSXCessive?