Expert opinions for a 50+ year old noob here.
01-04-2018, 10:14 PM
#1
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Expert opinions for a 50+ year old noob here.
New to the site, but old school gearhead and collector that has been into Honda products since I bought my 1979 Honda Prelude brand new and have owned about 50 Honda products over the years.
Recently bought a car that I have been wanting for a long time and wanted to get expert opinions from the folks here. The car I bought is a 2007 WDP 6MT UA7 with 50k miles. That's the good part.
However, it has some damage that appears to be minimal and will at a minimum will require a new quarter panel and wheel. I guess overall, I am trying to figure out how upset I need to be with myself, because of the damage, will now have a rebuilt title and I will end up with far more tied up after repairs than I feel it will be worth. It will have only brand new OEM parts used for the repair and the repair will be professionally done. I also intend to add the A-Spec body parts and want to figure out what the real world value of the car will be repaired with and without the A-Spec parts.
Here are the photos I have of the car showing the damage, miles and overall condition. I appreciate anyone's willingness to provide their perspective of value.
Recently bought a car that I have been wanting for a long time and wanted to get expert opinions from the folks here. The car I bought is a 2007 WDP 6MT UA7 with 50k miles. That's the good part.
However, it has some damage that appears to be minimal and will at a minimum will require a new quarter panel and wheel. I guess overall, I am trying to figure out how upset I need to be with myself, because of the damage, will now have a rebuilt title and I will end up with far more tied up after repairs than I feel it will be worth. It will have only brand new OEM parts used for the repair and the repair will be professionally done. I also intend to add the A-Spec body parts and want to figure out what the real world value of the car will be repaired with and without the A-Spec parts.
Here are the photos I have of the car showing the damage, miles and overall condition. I appreciate anyone's willingness to provide their perspective of value.
01-04-2018, 11:56 PM
#2
Safety Car
If you're buying a salvage car, value is almost not even a concern unless it is some kind of exotic. Normal cars depreciate so quickly, and then salvage cars only moreso.
The A-Spec kit on a Type S I would think adds almost no value.
I'm really surprised the car was totaled for what appears to be pretty minimal damage.
The A-Spec kit on a Type S I would think adds almost no value.
I'm really surprised the car was totaled for what appears to be pretty minimal damage.
01-05-2018, 06:37 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
That damage is not bad at all. I sure wouldn't buy brand new body panel parts, find a 3G tl at a junk yard, one that is without rust of course and get a quarter panel from there, this alone will save you a ton a money and it doesn't have to be a type S because panels are all the same.
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justnspace (01-05-2018)
01-05-2018, 08:22 AM
#6
with a 10 yr old car, the depreciation curve has pretty much bottomed out... that repair doesn't look to be that intense and most likely was totaled because of the age... not the mileage and or the damage... i hope you got a good deal on it...
i think the general rule with buying salvage vehicles is that you don't really care about the resale in the future... you will either drive it till the doors fall off or you have a very rare car... many will argue that there is only a specific niche of people that are looking for a 3G TLS 6MT...
i think the general rule with buying salvage vehicles is that you don't really care about the resale in the future... you will either drive it till the doors fall off or you have a very rare car... many will argue that there is only a specific niche of people that are looking for a 3G TLS 6MT...
01-05-2018, 09:02 AM
#7
Ex-OEM King
That damage is not bad at all. I sure wouldn't buy brand new body panel parts, find a 3G tl at a junk yard, one that is without rust of course and get a quarter panel from there, this alone will save you a ton a money and it doesn't have to be a type S because panels are all the same.
Either way, doesn't look like anything a few grand for metal and paint work can't fix. New bumpers from junk yard for sure.
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01-05-2018, 10:38 AM
#8
Moderator
MODERATOR NOTE - Moved to model-specific forum.
01-05-2018, 11:01 AM
#9
That rear passenger side quarter panel looks pretty bad if you look closely. It was probably totaled because of that and that alone. Even if it's in running condition and maybe a cracked radiator, I'm willing to bet the reason why is that rear quarter panel.
I bet you there's frame damage
I bet you there's frame damage
01-05-2018, 11:17 AM
#11
This is why the TL gets totaled easily. That rear quarter panel is very expensive to replace and once you add in labor it creeps up to 75% of the car very fast.
01-05-2018, 11:23 AM
#12
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I fall into the camp of "go for it", the rest of the car looks too good to pass up.
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DMZ (01-08-2018)
01-05-2018, 08:05 PM
#14
When you say “professionally done”, I’m assuming you mean that a body shop will take care of the work? Do you own a body shop or do you work at a body shop or do you have connections to a body shop to get a good rate? I’m thinking that if you don’t, you might end up spending a few thousand dollars to fix and paint matched it properly.
What are your plans after fixing it? Are you planning to just flip it or are you planning to keep it? If you are not doing the repairs yourself or at least get a nicely discounted rate, profit margin might be pretty slim. Depending on how much you paid for it, of course. Most of the time the profit is made when buying stuff.
If you plan keeping it, just do what ever is needed to fix it properly and then add what ever modifications you want and enjoy the ride.
What are your plans after fixing it? Are you planning to just flip it or are you planning to keep it? If you are not doing the repairs yourself or at least get a nicely discounted rate, profit margin might be pretty slim. Depending on how much you paid for it, of course. Most of the time the profit is made when buying stuff.
If you plan keeping it, just do what ever is needed to fix it properly and then add what ever modifications you want and enjoy the ride.
01-05-2018, 10:35 PM
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I wasn’t positive where to post it. So, I appreciate your moving it to the appropriate section.Bought my daughter a 5AT UA7 recently and enjoyed driving it so much that I wanted one for myself, but I enjoy driving a manual much more.I began my search looking for a low mile WDP dark interior 6MT UA7. Unfortunately, they are not at all easy to find. In fact, everytime I spoke with anyone that seemed knowledgeable on the cars kept Brad ngung up the term “unicorn” like they are impossible to find.In my search, I happened across this one in an insurance auctions and thought it looked really clean sans the minor damage. So, I’m thinking here’s a car that will do everything I want and even though the “rebuilt” history will always follow it, I will end up in it at a reasonable enough total cost to offset the damage history. However, now after the auction is over and I have bought the car and knowing how picky am about vehicles I own, I know I will only use brand new oem parts for a car with this mileage and quality and would only ever use a professional body shop to make any repairs. With that being said, I feel like I am going to end up with more money tied up in the car when completed than I would have in a comparable milage and condition car without damage or damage history. Because of that, I just feel like I will always be dissatisfied with the car. Basically what I am trying to find out from the experts here is what. Rep world expectation of market value I should have once the car is completed and I figured out there was no better place to get an honest answer to that uestuin run right here. Hope ll this makes better sense now. Really do appreciate everyone’s insight and willingness to offer their opinions. Have a great weekend!!!
01-05-2018, 10:44 PM
#16
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What did you pay for the car at auction?
01-06-2018, 04:08 AM
#17
Drifting
To repair the car is about $4500. Assuming no suspension damage.
I would guess the resale value with Salvage Title $4000-$5000... Add $500 with A Spec kit painted and installed. Maybe another $1000 if you find the right buyer.
I would guess the resale value with Salvage Title $4000-$5000... Add $500 with A Spec kit painted and installed. Maybe another $1000 if you find the right buyer.
01-06-2018, 05:41 AM
#18
Personally feel that if someone is such a "perfectionist" why they would purchase a salvage car is beyond me.
Once a salvage car why would anyone feel the need to replace items with an OEM panel ($900) rather than used ($175). I would purchase the used qtr and piece it in at the lower portion and be done with it and when painted who'd know.
Forget about resale value, get a good shop, fix the car as cheaply as possible, drive and enjoy the car.
Once a salvage car why would anyone feel the need to replace items with an OEM panel ($900) rather than used ($175). I would purchase the used qtr and piece it in at the lower portion and be done with it and when painted who'd know.
Forget about resale value, get a good shop, fix the car as cheaply as possible, drive and enjoy the car.
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tsuintx (01-06-2018)
01-06-2018, 07:31 AM
#20
I wasn’t positive where to post it. So, I appreciate your moving it to the appropriate section.Bought my daughter a 5AT UA7 recently and enjoyed driving it so much that I wanted one for myself, but I enjoy driving a manual much more.I began my search looking for a low mile WDP dark interior 6MT UA7. Unfortunately, they are not at all easy to find. In fact, everytime I spoke with anyone that seemed knowledgeable on the cars kept Bringing up the term “unicorn” like they are impossible to find.In my search, I happened across this one in an insurance auction and thought it looked really clean sans the minor damage. So, I’m thinking here’s a car that will do everything I want and even though the “rebuilt” history will always follow it, I will end up in it at a reasonable enough total cost to offset the damage history. However, now after the auction is over and I have bought the car and knowing how picky am about vehicles I own, I know I will only use brand new oem parts for a car with this mileage and quality and would only ever use a professional body shop to make any repairs. With that being said, I feel like I am going to end up with much more money tied up in the car when completed than I would have in a comparable milage and condition car without damage or damage history. Because of that, I just feel like I will always be dissatisfied with the car because of that. Basically what I am trying to find out from the experts here is what real world expectation of market value I should have once the car is completed and I figured there was no better place to get an honest answer to that question than right here. Hope ll this makes better sense now. Really do appreciate everyone’s insight and willingness to offer their opinions. Have a great weekend!!!
This shows why all used cars esp insurance auction cars always need to be inspected prior to purchase.
You do know WDP is a very difficult color to match and match well?
Last edited by 08KBP_VA; 01-06-2018 at 07:33 AM.
01-06-2018, 07:34 AM
#21
Personally feel that if someone is such a "perfectionist" why they would purchase a salvage car is beyond me.
Once a salvage car why would anyone feel the need to replace items with an OEM panel ($900) rather than used ($175). I would purchase the used qtr and piece it in at the lower portion and be done with it and when painted who'd know.
Forget about resale value, get a good shop, fix the car as cheaply as possible, drive and enjoy the car.
Once a salvage car why would anyone feel the need to replace items with an OEM panel ($900) rather than used ($175). I would purchase the used qtr and piece it in at the lower portion and be done with it and when painted who'd know.
Forget about resale value, get a good shop, fix the car as cheaply as possible, drive and enjoy the car.
Low mileage and 6MT Type S only matters for the right buyer. Factor in a rebuilt/salvage title and whatever "unicorn" value it may have had is gone. Keep in mind, it is a 10yr old car so it's value has bottomed and most likely why insurance totalled it to begin with.
I get being a perfectionist, I am one myself and why I'll never buy a rebuilt titled car period. The thought will always be in my head no matter how minor/hiw professionally it was repaired. If you're going to obsess over this and value I would not do anything further and just part it out. You'll be able to minimize your losses and/or possibly make some money. Otherwise if this truly is a car you've lusted after don't sweat the title and repair costs, just fix it up and enjoy it until the wheels fall off.
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Acura TL Builder (01-06-2018)
01-06-2018, 12:37 PM
#24
Drifting
$5500 +/- $500 for the repairs total. Suspension and rear door are damage also.
01-06-2018, 01:10 PM
#28
Drifting
That is possible but highly unlikely because the whole width of the quarter is damage and right where the wheel is. What ever hit it hit the whole right rear area including the wheel.
Also the price is kinda low for it to total the car without suspension damage.
Also the price is kinda low for it to total the car without suspension damage.
Last edited by 01acls; 01-06-2018 at 01:14 PM.
01-09-2018, 08:44 AM
#31
Suzuka Master
OP if you repair this the correct way (no short cut taken) I would save the pics of before and after repair so the new potential owner can decide. I would tell you that if the price is right I would buy this car with salvage title, things that keep me from buying rebuilt/ salvage title is that I don't know how the repair was performed.
01-10-2018, 01:53 AM
#32
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01-10-2018, 01:56 AM
#33
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Will know more next week when it goes in the body shop, but I don't believe there is, but hard to tell for sure on this one. Didn't have plans to sell the wheels, but I always say everything is for sale. It is just a matter of someone offering a price high enough to motivate me to sell it.
01-10-2018, 02:02 AM
#34
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01-10-2018, 02:04 AM
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01-10-2018, 02:05 AM
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01-10-2018, 02:07 AM
#37
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The rear wheel at the area of damage appears to be situated such that it appears to be as square as the front one on that side is. If there is any suspension damage, my belief is that it is minor, but will know more next week.
01-10-2018, 06:43 AM
#38
Measure the distance center of front wheel to center of rear wheel each side and compare the values.
One item to keep in mind with salvage cars/titles is that the salvage term is predicated on the value of the car as we all know. Having said that, as the value of the car drops, the cost limit of body damage will also drop before "salvage" is labeled to the car.
When this car was new, or even many years old when the value of the car was, let's say $12k, the damage as shown would have been completed with no salvage title and everybody would be happy with the only drawback being the accident was reported and probably shown on the CarFax report. However, with the drop/depreciation of the car's value, it's now become a total loss from an insurance carrier standpoint.
When one hears it's a salvage titled car, the light goes off and most believe the car was a total wreck at some point in it's lifetime, but not all salvage titled cars have not been physically destroyed, it's just that repair costs exceed the % limit of the car's value. Actually some can be an easy fix.
One item to keep in mind with salvage cars/titles is that the salvage term is predicated on the value of the car as we all know. Having said that, as the value of the car drops, the cost limit of body damage will also drop before "salvage" is labeled to the car.
When this car was new, or even many years old when the value of the car was, let's say $12k, the damage as shown would have been completed with no salvage title and everybody would be happy with the only drawback being the accident was reported and probably shown on the CarFax report. However, with the drop/depreciation of the car's value, it's now become a total loss from an insurance carrier standpoint.
When one hears it's a salvage titled car, the light goes off and most believe the car was a total wreck at some point in it's lifetime, but not all salvage titled cars have not been physically destroyed, it's just that repair costs exceed the % limit of the car's value. Actually some can be an easy fix.
Last edited by Turbonut; 01-10-2018 at 06:47 AM.
01-10-2018, 06:55 AM
#39
^Understood as I experienced this first hand and that % is dependent on the state the car is insured in and in case of VA its 75% for salvage and 90% or greater and its parts only vehicle. This car as an example estimate at $13k retail (likely worth more than that) and with 75% thats $9700 that an adjuster estimated damage to be in order for it to wind up here.
To me for it to be salvaged thats a crapload of damage for an otherwise clean looking example. Theres something the adjuster saw or knows we cant or owner didnt care enough to fight for it to be saved.
To me for it to be salvaged thats a crapload of damage for an otherwise clean looking example. Theres something the adjuster saw or knows we cant or owner didnt care enough to fight for it to be saved.
01-10-2018, 07:17 AM
#40
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Not sure I would give the adjuster that much credit. There is a reasonable bet he/she looked at the market value of a base automatic and didn't ascribe any extra value to the Type-S version or the extra premium cars with the 6MT fetch on the market. Said another way, the adjuster may have ascribed a market value somewhere in the $5,000 to $7,000 price range.