WDPanda

Have you done any car shopping? Compare some Type S

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

I talked to the adjuster late in the afternoon yesterday. She advised they are valuing the car at 2695. After looking at their report, I told them they didn't add in my new tires and the compete ASPEC package in their evaluation. She said that they would send he estimator back out but I don't expect a whole lot more added onto their final settlement proposal.

If I wanted to, I could take my car back and deduct 447 bucks from the settlement. I'm leaning on taking my car back for 447 bucks. What I'm debating on is whether or not to take on a new car payment and fix my car and keep it as a second car or just fix my car and skip getting a new car altogether.

Since I will be going out of pocket somewhat to fix my car, I am concerned about the tranny crapping out on me at some point and having to spend between two and four grand fixing that. Decisions, decisions.

and yes....I have test driven a couple of cars already and will be driving some more this weekend....

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

As I stated in our PM, fix the TL as long as the damage behind the bumper isn't serious. See if you can go back to where the TL is and try to remove the front bumper and passenger headlight. Inspect the radiator support and impact bar. As long as the frame rail isn't touched, it's easier to pull the trigger and fix the TL. As least the parts I sent you, are on the lower cost for OEM stuff. A good body shop can possibly fix your A-spec lip. Now the flip side is, test drive every vehicle within your budget. At the end of the day, the TL is by far one of the best vehicles ever made, but it has show it's age and a newer vehicle would be better (In theory). Keep us posted, if you need any more help, we can help.

Jakes_tl

for $447 I would take it and fix or or part it out. They wheels and tires alone are worth more then that.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Be a man. Do the right thing.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Yikes, for $447, I'm sure someone would be more than happy to take the car off your hands if you don't want to repair it.

thoiboi

what the what.. i totaled my Accord back in 2013! And then got a Tl-S

thoiboi

And agreed.. At least take it back and part it out!

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

After further review of their evaluation, the comps they used didn't have navigation either. I just got done writing a comprehensive email as to why they need to re-eval the car with the appropriate equipment. Hopefully, I get good news.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I would really push back, $2,695 just ain't near enough for your car, errr, unless it is much more ragged than it looks and has at least a quarter of a million miles on the clock. I did a heck of a lot of shopping for a 3G TL earlier this year, and cars south of $5,000 were, without exception, very well flogged. The flip side is a very clean and relatively low mileage 2005 with an automatic and NAV could easily be found selling up in the $7,000 to $8,000 territory; hell, I paid $10,000 for my 2006 6MT non-NAV.

truonghthe

$2700? I would tell them keep the $2700 and buy me another one with similar mileage and condition.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Buy it back for $447 before it goes up with the parts they missed. I can say from parting mine out completely, it was totally worth the time invested to do it.

cu2wagon

I'll too echo the "buy it back for $447" comments. You've got to be able to sell it on to a DIY'er for more than that.

@rockstar143 may want yet another car to fix and flip*



*we'll see about that

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

My Accord was obviously better.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Joe, I'm SO sorry to see this. I'm anxious to hear what the adjustors have to say.

Will Y.

Ouch! Sorry to hear about this.

And that appraiser seems to be doing a really half-assed job...

08KBP_VA

Appraisers mission is to limit the cost outlay. They prey on the fact the consumer is unaware so he may be doing half ass job by the customer but Im sure he's doing right by his company's bottom line. What I did with my adjuster is provide him all options on the car, recent services performed, and I had the original window sticker. I also included print off from regional vehicles similar to mine for a price valuation. My insurance company limited valuation radius to within 100mi of my zip. This changed due to limited production numbers for mine.

Sounds like your way past most of these but I would start gathering your supporting evidence (comparables) now of sale ads of like kind, quality to yours. I also used a company with an valuation tool thats accepted by insurance companys to provide valuations in event of mediation, which is where I thought I was heading (cant remember name might have in vehicle file). My case was a little different as car was limited production so valuation was harder but in end I got a fair value for the vehicle in a slow market. Was it as much as if I was selling it, probably not, but payout was quick bought her back and stripped the shit out of her. The tires and wheels and seats and door cards covered the buy back cost.

Good luck.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

2600?

I got 8600 for my 04 Corolla when it was totaled out last year,

GreenSpades

Buy it back and part it out. Hell take out the engine and sell it for $500 and after that everything else is pure profit. Interested to see what they come back with, that is some real real low ball. Is that them giving you 75% of the value or are they actually trying to say the entire car is worth $2600?

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Just an update- I got a new updated evaluation. New proposed settlement is $4,862.26. Could it be better....absolutely but I think I can deal with that amount as opposed to the first amount I was given.

I'm definitely gonna buy the car back (which would obviously lower the settlement amount)....still wavering on whether to take on a new car payment or not.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Did the buy back amount go up?

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Yep a little- apparently she forget to tell me that I had to pay tax so buy back is about $650.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I'd still jump on that and buy the car back.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Yesterday; $34.50. you walk around come back later; fo-ty dolla.
Do the right ting.

cu2wagon

No brainer!

Buy back, invite Jay-Z and Kanye over and give it that Maybach treatment.

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

Damn GG sorry to hear about this.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Joe, I'm sorry to hear it, man.
There are cars after the TL. I will say that.
But the car is gorgeous still and such a reliable bargain, the story should go on depending on repairs.
I will say that after buying things and fixing them...they are usually a lot of work and not much money saved or made in the end so it must either be a 1)labor of love 2) or a fun learning experience.

This one would be #1 for you...
I didn't see, how much would it cost to fix for real?

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

I see from a quick scan of pictures.

Front Bumper
Passenger Headlight
Front Passenger Fender
Washer Fluid Reservoir
Power Steering Reservoir
Hood? (Possible Hinges only)

I have a washer fluid res and power steering res. PM if you want to rebuild with some parts.

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I'm getting into the final numbers- and now - since my car's value has gone up so has my buy back. Total cost to buy it back is 1339.10 which includes towing/ storage fees.
If I accept their settlement - total is 4829.01.
With that new buy back amount, it makes it a harder decision for me.

Jakes_tl

Are you able to keep the aspecs?

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

This still gives you a delta of about $3,500 to work with; I'm thinking you may not be 100% whole if you invest the settlement money into repairing your car, but I'm thinking you'll be closer than if you take the money and buy something else.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

I would have jumped at $447 in the beginning! Sorry to see it rise so much.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

The thing is, if he had taken the $447 buyout and then deducted that from the ~$2,700 pay off, the delta would only have been ~$2,250, now the delta is ~$3,500 so even with the higher buyout, he has more money to work with to repair the car.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

I have never had to deal with buying a car back. Do you get the remaining balance of the total to fix the car after deducting the buy back value? Maybe I am misunderstanding that.

GreenSpades

At this point I would cut losses and take the money. I know that is hard to do, but you have to think about all of the time and energy you will put into either fixing it or parting it out. If you are mechanically advanced with time on your hands go for it. Otherwise take the money and get into something else. Step up another $7000 and get into a 6th gen 535 doesn't sound too bad to me.

Before it was a no brainer to buy it back at that low price and them not giving you anything. Either way it will hurt a little, but one way involves a lot of work and effort. The other involves some money and a newer car.

Another thing if you fix it is getting the brackets to sit right and getting all of the trim pieces below the car and in the engine bay. It's just all the little things that add up in price and time delays.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the payout is the payout; if you take the car back they deduct the deemed value of it from the total payout. As the current deal stands, they'll give him the car back plus $3,500.

08KBP_VA

If you have the intent to buy it back and fix it the cost benefit isnt there anymore with the new valuation. In my situation I was unable to rebuild due to the extent of the damage I could not get a marketable title. Thats also something to consider is the type of title you would receive and if and how you can register it in your state. You might want to explore your options and the process to get a salvaged car back on the street with a branded title. In my case my cost of repair was >90% of cars value which only made my car eligible for parts.

Keep in mind you in essence will be investing likely >3k if your lucky to repair the car to some standard and still have a car with >200k mi and salvage title which makes it very unmarketable. Comes down to IF you feel she has >50k or miles in her to buy you some time then thats your call. Personally as I said above I dont see it worth it anymore.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

A couple of thoughts/comments:

• Not all states have what is deemed a "Salvage Title"
• My understanding is, if you already own the car and have title to it, fetching it back from a wrecking yard after it was "Totaled" does not suddenly change the title to a salvage title as the car was never reported to the state as totaled.

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the feedback. After talking to my body shop guy, I have an email in to the adj requesting confirmation on whether or not I will receive a rebuilt title or a certificate of destruction. If it is the latter, I will definately not buy it back. I Sent over some pics of the damage to the body shop guy to see what he has to say - and then kinda go from there.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Joe, walk away.
You were already on the fence about a new car for the last few years.
Take this as a sign that it was time to move one. $5000 is a nice down payment on your next lightly used luxury car.
Go test drive an S4.
I'm contemplating selling off some of mine for one, believe it or not.


I know sentiment and practicality rule for you, but if your'e in a financial position to do so. Just let it go...the headaches that pop up, mismatched paint work, misaligned panels, maybe some electrical gremlins from being jarred, maybe this, maybe that and at the end of the day...she's a polished turd and not the classic honda you had maintained so well. Sucks to say it, but goodbye.
ONLY way I'd say buy back is if you feel like parting it and then junking shell but you'll be dealing with craigslist and flakes and bs to score another grand or 2...and as they say for a family man especially...time is money.