Electric issue SOMEBODY HELP!!
06-18-2018, 02:21 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Electric issue SOMEBODY HELP!!
Hey y’all,
im installing I have relocated my car battery to the trunk.
I used:
450 amp breaker
0 gauge positive wire from the battery to the engine bay.
A 4 gauge from the positive 0 gauge “T” in the engine bay to the starter.
A 4 gauge from the positive 0 gauge “T” in the engine bay to the engine bay fuse box.
the alternator cable is still stock.
I have a negative 0 gauge connected to the frame in there truck.
Another 0 gauge ran under the car directly to the engine block.
My car still won’t start if I have accessories on like my headlights or my A/C. It just pops the breaker.
If I don’t turn off my headlights or A/C before I turn off my car it will pop my breaker.
Sometimes when I get a tank of gas and try to turn it on, it will pop the breaker.
Is anyone else having this issue after a battery relocation?
im installing I have relocated my car battery to the trunk.
I used:
450 amp breaker
0 gauge positive wire from the battery to the engine bay.
A 4 gauge from the positive 0 gauge “T” in the engine bay to the starter.
A 4 gauge from the positive 0 gauge “T” in the engine bay to the engine bay fuse box.
the alternator cable is still stock.
I have a negative 0 gauge connected to the frame in there truck.
Another 0 gauge ran under the car directly to the engine block.
My car still won’t start if I have accessories on like my headlights or my A/C. It just pops the breaker.
If I don’t turn off my headlights or A/C before I turn off my car it will pop my breaker.
Sometimes when I get a tank of gas and try to turn it on, it will pop the breaker.
Is anyone else having this issue after a battery relocation?
06-18-2018, 06:14 PM
#2
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Come on fellas, someone’s got to know why I have this issue.
All my google research shows that I don’t have enough ground. After reading that, I ran a 0 gauge from the battery to the block. It usually starts now.
But why can I still not have my a/c or HIDs on when turning on he car?
All my google research shows that I don’t have enough ground. After reading that, I ran a 0 gauge from the battery to the block. It usually starts now.
But why can I still not have my a/c or HIDs on when turning on he car?
06-18-2018, 07:36 PM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Symptoms:
When it randomly decides to not start, I turn the key, l it turns over a couple times, and at the moment of continuous ignition, the electrical system turns off and the voltage breaker pops.
When it randomly decides to not start, I turn the key, l it turns over a couple times, and at the moment of continuous ignition, the electrical system turns off and the voltage breaker pops.
06-18-2018, 08:31 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
Do you have a multimeter? Test the resistance of your lines. Did you get 0 gauge CCA or actual copper? .
06-18-2018, 10:14 PM
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Hey boithoi!
ive got s multi meter.
I used accually copper for the positive wire from the trunk into the engine bay. Then its all COA . It’s flexible and aluminum looking.
ive got s multi meter.
I used accually copper for the positive wire from the trunk into the engine bay. Then its all COA . It’s flexible and aluminum looking.
06-19-2018, 07:49 PM
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I tested the voltages on alternator, starter, accessory box.
Car off: 12.86-13.00
Car on: 14.xx
Seems my wiring makes plenty of energy, and it’s getting where it needs to be. While the car is on I have zero issues.
It’s only at start up am I seeing issues. During the accually start up.
The engine turns over just fine, its that it pops my voltage breaker, which cuts the motor off before it can fully get going and allow the alternator to keep it going.
Car off: 12.86-13.00
Car on: 14.xx
Seems my wiring makes plenty of energy, and it’s getting where it needs to be. While the car is on I have zero issues.
It’s only at start up am I seeing issues. During the accually start up.
The engine turns over just fine, its that it pops my voltage breaker, which cuts the motor off before it can fully get going and allow the alternator to keep it going.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 06-19-2018 at 07:51 PM.
Trending Topics
06-20-2018, 08:45 AM
#8
Drifting
Voltage levels not under load does not mean the energy is being delivered where it needs to be properly. A high resistance wire can still present 14V when there is little to no current flowing. Put a load across it and the voltage will drop quickly.
I am betting you have some connections that are less than optimal. It wasn't exactly clear in your earlier statements, but did you use CCA for the 4 guage runs? Are all connections on the positive or negative side clean down to bare metal?
I am betting you have some connections that are less than optimal. It wasn't exactly clear in your earlier statements, but did you use CCA for the 4 guage runs? Are all connections on the positive or negative side clean down to bare metal?
06-20-2018, 10:55 AM
#9
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Especially, if this issue just started after your recent rear-end low speed crash that you mentioned in your other thread. It wouldn't hurt.
06-21-2018, 12:32 PM
#10
Senior Moderator
Thanks jackass, that's what i was implying, not necessarily just voltage, but resistance. That's why I asked about CCA. Copper Clad Aluminum is definitely cheaper and more flexible than full copper but its higher resistance may not be delivering the proper amperage needed to start your car.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post