Duralast brake pads question...
03-23-2009, 01:48 PM
#81
Cruisin'
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03-23-2009, 02:35 PM
#82
Intermediate
I thought I would share this info with the folks here.. I am getting ready to replace my front pads this weekend and wanted to make sure I was using the correct stuff.
Last edited by GoRavens; 03-23-2009 at 02:37 PM.
03-23-2009, 03:29 PM
#83
Moderator
Many have stated on AZINE and other sites to use the RED bottle of CRC (Disk Brake Quite) CRC red goo. Printed on this bottle is says, "DO NOT USE WITH SHIMS". I called CRC and they said to use their Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease. It should be placed on the outside of the shim after the shim is on the pad. They also said it would not hurt to place it on both sides of the shim. The Red CRC goo acts more like a rubber and has slight adhesive properties and this is why it should not be used with shims.
I thought I would share this info with the folks here.. I am getting ready to replace my front pads this weekend and wanted to make sure I was using the correct stuff.
I thought I would share this info with the folks here.. I am getting ready to replace my front pads this weekend and wanted to make sure I was using the correct stuff.
I've been saying this for quite a while.
03-23-2009, 03:36 PM
#84
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Many have stated on AZINE and other sites to use the RED bottle of CRC (Disk Brake Quite) CRC red goo. Printed on this bottle is says, "DO NOT USE WITH SHIMS". I called CRC and they said to use their Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease. It should be placed on the outside of the shim after the shim is on the pad. They also said it would not hurt to place it on both sides of the shim. The Red CRC goo acts more like a rubber and has slight adhesive properties and this is why it should not be used with shims.
I thought I would share this info with the folks here.. I am getting ready to replace my front pads this weekend and wanted to make sure I was using the correct stuff.
I thought I would share this info with the folks here.. I am getting ready to replace my front pads this weekend and wanted to make sure I was using the correct stuff.
05-26-2009, 08:20 AM
#86
no offense. American 4x4s
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After all these threads I decided to try them out. Just replaced all of my stock pads with the duralast cmax pads this past weekend after 40K miles. Set back an hour by the rusted on retaining screws and a trip to buy an impact driver, but a pretty easy diy. Was very liberal with the CRC synthetic caliper grease and used it only on the outside of the shims. Rears were replaced with new rotors as the stocks were rusted to hell. These cmax pads do come with their own backing shims and would not fit into the front brembo calipers with the existing stock shims so I left them out. Did not resurface the front rotors as they were not warped. In my opinion, if it aint broke don't fix it, resurfacing them would have only made them thinner and more prone to warp. Sanded them a little with 120 grit sandpaper and bedded it all in right after the install. 60 to 0 mph 6 or 7 times back to back got them all smelling and smoking a little. Might need another go round, but did not make a single noise. Smooth solid braking. Definitely did not bite as the stock did, but I'm sure after they break in more they will feel more like stock. So far very minimal dust during normal breaking. Keeping my fingers crossed things stay as clean and quiet!
05-26-2009, 10:03 AM
#88
Safety Car
i absolutely love these things including lifetime warranty!!! i used the stock brembo shims on them as well because they started to squeak so i installed the brembo shims the ones with direction arrows on them not the flat ones glued onto the pad. the dust is barely noticable and stopping power is insane...and i got brembo slotted rotors to match. SIIICK!
06-12-2009, 02:31 PM
#89
Mmmmmm... Anthracite
I installed the Duralast Gold Cmax pads last Sunday. Can't beat them, $60 for pads, grease, spring clips, and less dust. Way better than the $300 the dealer wanted.
I reused the metal shims off the original pads, used the new spring clips and used only the included grease over the metal shim/bad where it contacts the cylinder.
No squeks after almost a week...
BTW I was done in less than an hour.
I reused the metal shims off the original pads, used the new spring clips and used only the included grease over the metal shim/bad where it contacts the cylinder.
No squeks after almost a week...
BTW I was done in less than an hour.
06-12-2009, 06:58 PM
#90
the TL brake fluid bleed/flush order is different than other cars due to the ABS piping
its LF RF RR LR
Move fluid thru the caliper until only new clear fluid is coming out
Should take about a qt (more for brembos)- get 2 qts DOT4 plain or synthetic and do a really good job!
its LF RF RR LR
Move fluid thru the caliper until only new clear fluid is coming out
Should take about a qt (more for brembos)- get 2 qts DOT4 plain or synthetic and do a really good job!
06-12-2009, 07:01 PM
#91
you should be greasing the pad back/shim with a small amount of caliper grease- synthetic sugested for better temp resistance
Apply where the caliper piston touches and where the outer fingers rub- there will be wear marks to use as referance.
Dont grease the piston edge- grease where it contacts on backing plate!!
Not too much grease- just enough so everything slides easily when assembled
The other IMPORTANT place is the slider plates where the pad end tabs fit into- those need grease,, the pads move in and out on those sliders with brake use
Apply where the caliper piston touches and where the outer fingers rub- there will be wear marks to use as referance.
Dont grease the piston edge- grease where it contacts on backing plate!!
Not too much grease- just enough so everything slides easily when assembled
The other IMPORTANT place is the slider plates where the pad end tabs fit into- those need grease,, the pads move in and out on those sliders with brake use
06-12-2009, 09:10 PM
#92
Instructor
i just bought set today 63 bucks tax included, maybe when i install i will put picture and the instruction. Where do i put the brake grease? between the shim and pads or caliper and pads?
06-13-2009, 03:24 AM
#93
stock pads are probably a softer compound
To me, it would seem that the stock Brembo pads would be easier on the rotors. They make your wheels dirty because they wear more quickly.
The service advisor at the local Acura dealer told me to avoid ceramic pads because they eat the rotors more quickly.
Has anyone tried the $30 autozone pads? I think I'd rather give those a shot first. I don't mind dirty wheels if it means the rotors will last longer.
Then, come to think of it...if it's easy to change the rotors, I might want the ceramic pads for dust reduction. A guy at autozone told me the rotors have a lifetime warranty too even though it says 2 years.
The service advisor at the local Acura dealer told me to avoid ceramic pads because they eat the rotors more quickly.
Has anyone tried the $30 autozone pads? I think I'd rather give those a shot first. I don't mind dirty wheels if it means the rotors will last longer.
Then, come to think of it...if it's easy to change the rotors, I might want the ceramic pads for dust reduction. A guy at autozone told me the rotors have a lifetime warranty too even though it says 2 years.
wouldn't the crappy pads make the rotors last longer? wouldn't the "grippier" metallic brembos chew threw the metal faster? For 30 bucks...I'm sure you can't go wrong with the monroe stuff...I can say that I'm SUPER happy with the dust reduction having gone to ceramic pads. Rims look clean for almost a week now before needing love.
06-13-2009, 01:37 PM
#94
To me, it would seem that the stock Brembo pads would be easier on the rotors. They make your wheels dirty because they wear more quickly.
The service advisor at the local Acura dealer told me to avoid ceramic pads because they eat the rotors more quickly.
Has anyone tried the $30 autozone pads? I think I'd rather give those a shot first. I don't mind dirty wheels if it means the rotors will last longer.
Then, come to think of it...if it's easy to change the rotors, I might want the ceramic pads for dust reduction. A guy at autozone told me the rotors have a lifetime warranty too even though it says 2 years.
The service advisor at the local Acura dealer told me to avoid ceramic pads because they eat the rotors more quickly.
Has anyone tried the $30 autozone pads? I think I'd rather give those a shot first. I don't mind dirty wheels if it means the rotors will last longer.
Then, come to think of it...if it's easy to change the rotors, I might want the ceramic pads for dust reduction. A guy at autozone told me the rotors have a lifetime warranty too even though it says 2 years.
06-13-2009, 05:47 PM
#95
I did a search
I did a quick search on yahoo and found these two links. Both mention that ceramics wear their mating surfaces at a higher rate.
For the first link, scroll down near the bottom. In the second link, here's a quote, "What is important though is that car's rotors are designed for ceramic pads, otherwise the rotors will typically wear faster."
Unless that info is false, it would seem that the service adviser didn't pull it out of thin air.
http://74.6.239.67/search/cache?ei=U...icp=1&.intl=us
http://www.handymanxchange.com/ceram...ads-vt185.html
For the first link, scroll down near the bottom. In the second link, here's a quote, "What is important though is that car's rotors are designed for ceramic pads, otherwise the rotors will typically wear faster."
Unless that info is false, it would seem that the service adviser didn't pull it out of thin air.
http://74.6.239.67/search/cache?ei=U...icp=1&.intl=us
http://www.handymanxchange.com/ceram...ads-vt185.html
06-15-2009, 10:57 AM
#97
Safety Car
nope i just took everything apart to regrease n rebuild one of the caliper piston boots and put it all together after almost 2 months of driving on them and using the aftermarket brembo slotted rotors....No wear on them has occured....and i have made some very hard stops to try to screw em up or warp em and they are amazing...even dusting has gone down big time now i can go 2 weeks without seeing heavy dust.
06-15-2009, 12:31 PM
#98
Hmm...and I'm on probably 4 months of using them and I'm happy as ever too!
I can go a week too (well, that's about as long as I wait to clean it with NBP) without heavy dusting. With the OEM's my rims looked dirty in a day or two.
Crazy.
I can go a week too (well, that's about as long as I wait to clean it with NBP) without heavy dusting. With the OEM's my rims looked dirty in a day or two.
Crazy.
06-15-2009, 12:35 PM
#99
Safety Car
dirty in a day or 2??? mine were done in 45mins. lol! oh and the squeaking went away once i put new boots on and regreased the shims this weekend.... It wasnt wearing the pad the right way.
06-15-2009, 07:29 PM
#102
I guess what I meant is someone that's switched over to ceramics with stock rotors...for say, 3 or 4 years...can you let us know if when you've eaten your rotors faster than people that kept the OEM "grippy" brembo pads. I can't imagine it because supposedly the brembos were so good they were wearing pad AND rotor at the same time.
That would explain the ridiculous dust.
That would explain the ridiculous dust.
06-15-2009, 10:53 PM
#103
Autozone!
The way I see it is that I'll just get rotors from Autozone when they wear out. I was told that they are warrantied for life even though the listed warranty is for 2 years. This means that you can get new rotors any time they wear out even if it's due to normal wear. The same goes for the pads from Autozone that carry the lifetime warranty.
I used to own a Volvo S80 and my brother has an 850 and their brakes coated the wheels with black dust. It'd be 2 weeks and the wheels would be so dirty. I asked the Volvo service department about it and they told me that it was because Volvo uses a softer brake pad compound for safety reasons. He also said that whenever customers complained about squealing, it was most likely due to non-OEM pads.
I don't know if I buy it though. I haven't washed the wheel covers once since we've purchased our 2005 Camry and over 40k miles later they aren't dirty at all. And the brakes are fine on that car.
The last time my 6MT TL was in the shop, they told me I had 10-20% pad life left. When the indicators start squealing, I'm going to get those ceramic pads from Autozone and hope I don't have squealing issues.
BTW, I'm still on the stock rotors and I'm at 77k miles. Apparently the Brembo pads are very soft and easy on the rotors.
I used to own a Volvo S80 and my brother has an 850 and their brakes coated the wheels with black dust. It'd be 2 weeks and the wheels would be so dirty. I asked the Volvo service department about it and they told me that it was because Volvo uses a softer brake pad compound for safety reasons. He also said that whenever customers complained about squealing, it was most likely due to non-OEM pads.
I don't know if I buy it though. I haven't washed the wheel covers once since we've purchased our 2005 Camry and over 40k miles later they aren't dirty at all. And the brakes are fine on that car.
The last time my 6MT TL was in the shop, they told me I had 10-20% pad life left. When the indicators start squealing, I'm going to get those ceramic pads from Autozone and hope I don't have squealing issues.
BTW, I'm still on the stock rotors and I'm at 77k miles. Apparently the Brembo pads are very soft and easy on the rotors.
I guess what I meant is someone that's switched over to ceramics with stock rotors...for say, 3 or 4 years...can you let us know if when you've eaten your rotors faster than people that kept the OEM "grippy" brembo pads. I can't imagine it because supposedly the brembos were so good they were wearing pad AND rotor at the same time.
That would explain the ridiculous dust.
That would explain the ridiculous dust.
06-29-2009, 06:56 PM
#105
10th Gear
Join Date: Mar 2008
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How many pads do you get
I was going to order the Duralast Gold Cmax from autozone (Part Number DGC1049) so I called Autozone to get them. I asked the person on the line how many came in a pack for the $60 and they said two. I found this a little odd. How many pads did you get with your order of Cmax's for $60?
06-30-2009, 08:46 AM
#110
Safety Car
01 r u sure??? the guys at honda that i know were taught to grease the top of the pad and then apply the shim and then grease the top of the shim.... then install the pads.
06-30-2009, 11:21 AM
#111
I have seen some older honda instructions say grease both sides- that would be to keep noise down from loose fitting shims
old bimmers used loose shims and used the orange rubbery glue stuff to hold the shim to the pad so it doesnt move, and grease the outer side of the shim to caliper.
The Acura shims- oe on oe pads- fit really tight. Greasing the backs allows them to move freely and correctly as they work, thats what we are most concerned with.
If the directions say specifically to do both sides then do so- its to fix a noise issue.
Pads are always sold in pairs- left and right sides for that end of the car
Replacing one side is a really bad plan
old bimmers used loose shims and used the orange rubbery glue stuff to hold the shim to the pad so it doesnt move, and grease the outer side of the shim to caliper.
The Acura shims- oe on oe pads- fit really tight. Greasing the backs allows them to move freely and correctly as they work, thats what we are most concerned with.
If the directions say specifically to do both sides then do so- its to fix a noise issue.
Pads are always sold in pairs- left and right sides for that end of the car
Replacing one side is a really bad plan
06-30-2009, 11:22 AM
#112
brake pads and rotors take about 500-1000 street miles for all the mini mountains and valleys to get mated into each other.. and full contact when braking applied
Wax the rims with synthetic car wax to cut down brake dust
Wax the rims with synthetic car wax to cut down brake dust
06-30-2009, 02:15 PM
#113
Safety Car
hey 01....in the caliper piston boot replacement instructions it says to regrease the pistons n boots for the caliper when changing the piston seals.... what kind of grease do I use caliper grease or something else???
06-30-2009, 04:34 PM
#114
caliper piston seal gets soaked in new brake fluid 20-30 minutes
caliper piston and caliper insides can be cleaned with carb spray or brake cleaner and a scrub pad if needed- needs to be smooth and shiny- no grooves or rust particles, clean area where seal fits
the boot for the caliper piston, just a light bit of caliper grease on its inner edge that contacts the piston
You dont want much there or it attracts dirt
the boots for the retainer bolts? those that hold the caliper to the bracket and allow caliper movement when applied?
shove some caliper grease in there
caliper piston and caliper insides can be cleaned with carb spray or brake cleaner and a scrub pad if needed- needs to be smooth and shiny- no grooves or rust particles, clean area where seal fits
the boot for the caliper piston, just a light bit of caliper grease on its inner edge that contacts the piston
You dont want much there or it attracts dirt
the boots for the retainer bolts? those that hold the caliper to the bracket and allow caliper movement when applied?
shove some caliper grease in there
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 06-30-2009 at 04:37 PM.
07-02-2009, 01:55 AM
#116
Hey, I just installed the Duralast brake pads!
So far so good. Sure the stopping power is not as potent as the OEM pads, but I'll sure get used to it.
However, I did have a question. When I was installing these, all four came with indicators on them. Is that right? I had trouble installing the inner pads because there was no room for the indicator, but I forced it in there. I had to slightly hammer the pins through the holes because of it. Had anyone else had this problem?
So far so good. Sure the stopping power is not as potent as the OEM pads, but I'll sure get used to it.
However, I did have a question. When I was installing these, all four came with indicators on them. Is that right? I had trouble installing the inner pads because there was no room for the indicator, but I forced it in there. I had to slightly hammer the pins through the holes because of it. Had anyone else had this problem?
07-02-2009, 07:57 AM
#117
I can't remember if mine had indicators on all of them...but I remember not having a hard time getting them in. I used a hammer to put the pins back in though regardless...I think you have to to get them to click all the way in.
PS...give it some time to bed and wear in...they will grab just like OEM soon enough.
PS...give it some time to bed and wear in...they will grab just like OEM soon enough.
07-02-2009, 08:15 AM
#118
Senior Moderator
I just looked a the pads online and it's looks like each pad has the indicators on them. Quick question, is the groove in the middle of the pad a wear indicator?
