jda123

This is for 04-06, but might be OK for 07-08.

It has been over 60K since I did this and I took pictures this time. There was very little residue on the screens, but when I got the car, the things were plugged up enough to restrict flow. The rate of residue has diminished similarly to the rate of residue on the magnetic drain plug since I have been using Redline D4 and Mobil 1 fluid. I credit the better fluid with less residue on these screens, in the filters and on the magnetic plug.

First, you have to remove the air filter box - check out the Transmission Filter DIY in the Garage if you need to know how.

The solenoid plate is held on by six 10mm bolts. The bottom left one holds on a bracket and harness that can be hid behind the dipstick (remove dipstick, move harness over and then replace dipstick). The red and black wiring harnesses need to be removed and can be slid towards the block for easy hiding. The rest is easy (my apologies for the unfocused picture):


Take the top plate off and remove. There are three screens that are now visible. Before you spend too much time admiring them, pay attention to the bottom part of the top plate - there are some O rings on here that you should not lose.


Take the screens out, one at a time and clean. I sprayed the inside with carb cleaner and then thoroughly dried them with compressed air. Mine were pretty clean this time, but last time (when I bought the car), they sprayed black gunk out. Here is a comparison with clean vs. dirty on the outside - I could not get a pic of the inside:


Now, get out your multimeter and test the resistance on the solenoids. I have no idea what the manual calls for, but my readings are below - if anybody knows how to navigate the shop manual, then I would love it if you would post. If you do this test, please post your readings too. On my old accord, I eventually needed to replace the solenoids, but that must have been well over 200K, but still... with over 150K on my car, I need to keep an eye on these. Here is the cleaned up top plate with my readings. Left would fluctuate between the two:


Install in the reverse. Easy as pie.

If you are doing this, then you might want to do your transmission filter too (04-06), since you are right there.

I hate cars

Nice DIY. You say the screens were pretty bad when you did this the first time? At what mileage?

The main reason I ask is as we know the auto 4-2 downshift is what causes a lot of the 3rd gear clutch wear because the 3rd gear hydraulic circuit can't exhaust quickly enough and you end up with 2nd and 3rd partially applied at the same time for a second. I don't have access to a manual but I wonder if one of these filters is a part of that circuit and might cause the issue. Or maybe I'm completely off. Either way, nice DIY, at 108k I'll probably do this soon. If no one has replied back, I'll check resistance of mine to compare.

Edit: Did you replace the gasket? If not I might do this right now.

jda123

Mileage was less than 90K when I first did it... maybe 86K (I have it written down somewhere). Well over 150K now. However, since I have owned the car, there has been no new Z1 put in... which has appeared to help. When I bought the car, it had a fluid change when the put the "oil jet mod" in it around 25K, 60K fluid change at the dealer and nothing else.

I have also been changing my filter when I do the 3rd and 4th pressure switches. I also do a 1x3 every other oil change. I wanna get 350-400K out of this sled and fluid, filters and switches are cheap to me.

The "blackness" is the same stuff that is all over the magnetic plug. It "sticks" to everything.

I took the top plate off thinking that it had an O ring, but it did not. Then, I remembered that I remembered that from last time. ...so, twice now I have reused the old gasket, but I know how lucky I got. I am going to get one next time I hit the dealer or place an online order just in case it starts to leak, but it has not so far.

It is like a 10-15 minute job once you get the air cleaner box off.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Nice DIY

jda123

The part number for the gasket is 28252-PAX-000.

paz840

iTrader: (2)

Nice writeup.
I'm at 160K+ and need to do this.

paz840

iTrader: (2)

Nice writeup.
I'm at 160K+ and need to do this.

Tehvine

I used to do that on my Accord (4cyl) and always used the same rubber over again. I just wiped some fluid on the surfaces before re-install.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

cool write up.

so this only applies to 04-06 right?

jda123

I don't know that, actually. Those are just all that I own and I know that it works on them. I guess that a quick scan of the solenoids on the parts diagram could give some assurance that it might work (or close) on a 07 and 08.

wusty23jd

I knowthread is super old, but I wanted to revisit this topic due to the fact that I just completed a 3x3 ATF drain/fill, replaced my 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, and replaced my transmission filter.

Does anyone have any links to another thread or have any input about knowing when the linear solenoids go bad or should be replaced? At a minimum, I plan to clean the screens, but I'm wondering if the solenoids should be replaced as well for preventative maintenance? Maybe that would be overkill?

thoiboi

You're welcome to go and clean the solenoids but you have to understand that the solenoids failing is more so an indicator that the clutch packs are wearing improperly which in turn CLOGS up the solenoids. In other words, the solenoids themselves aren't typically the culprit . I tried doing the same thing on my last Accord and it didn't really help the transmission at all so in all honesty, was a waste of money.

wusty23jd

Thanks for the clarification. Those logistics make sense. I will pass on replacing them, but will still move forward with examining and cleaning the screens. It can't hurt?

I just purchased a replacement gasket and three new o-rings just in case.

thoiboi

Can't hurt but I'd be lying if I said it'd help much. Think of it as a filter for your faucet, if you had a bad water supply upstream that's causing a bunch of sediment to come down, you can keep cleaning the faucet's filter, but it will still continue to get clogged up and will eventually fail.

SocomM4

iTrader: (2)

Clutches wear over time, especially when the trans is meant to slip a little for comfortable shifts. Just because thoiboi is an admin doesn't mean hes the most competent at service and repair. So just because whatever he did didnt yeild the intended result, doesnt mean you wont.


Change your filter as well while you're in there.
12-25 ohms on the solenoids if you're metering them.

t-rd

I had the BAYA auto trans (Similar to TL's) in my 07 Accord V6 rebuilt back in March (11 years later), after 280k miles. I did all I could regularly to service the trans, including regular changes of 3rd and 4th pressure switches. It was the torque converter clutch that started to wear out because I drive in heavy traffic quite a bit, the rest of the clutch packs are all good. I have removed solenoid C before (mounted in front of the trans) but it was squeaky clean. If your trans has clutch pack debris in the small filters on solenoid A and B and you have an internal issue, it is not a problem with the solenoids, this is what the trans shop told me when I asked about it. There IS a flaw with the valve body on this transmission and it is technically documented on Sonnax' website, you need to read that. It has to do with valve body plunger and the valve body clearance not retaining fluid to cool the torque converter while the car is at idle and the torque converter is spinning. It allows the torque converter to overheat. I have had a B&M cooler for a while, but this problem is inevitable with the trans in the OEM form. IF you do rebuild the trans in the future, you need to change out the valve body plunger and bore out the valve body holes to a larger size, using the Translab Shift Kit, this fixes the valve body problem. After that, you need to run an external cooler, if you drive in conditions like mine. If you live in the middle of nowhere with little traffic, then this will most likely never happen. Recommended fluid is multi-vehicle full syn, like Valvoline maxlife, which allows for less slippage but just enough firmness. I will not comment on the "right percentage of redline + oem fluid mix" thread because of the info in there has mixed results.

thoiboi

this guy knows what he's talking about