Casper42

The Meet Today was the final push that got me to finish my damn Side Marker mod.
The short version is that I swapped the Amber Lights for White ones.
The long D I Y version starts below.

Disclaimer:
It should be obvious, but if you attempt this, you are taking the risk of damage to yourself/your vehicle and/or legal reprecussions for your state laws regarding proper lighting. Basically if you do this mod and something goes wrong, dont go blaming me.

Parts you will need:
Screwdriver - Philips
Screwdriver - Flat Head
2 x Soldering Iron (Or 1 if your REALLY good at soldering and using Solder Wick/Sucker)
Solder Wick
Very Small Hacksaw or Dremel (If your good with a cut off wheel on plastic)
Plastic Epoxy (aka Plastic Welder)
4 x 4 pin "Hi-Flux" LEDs (Bottom of This Page at SuperBrightLEDs)
Sandpaper (Coarse)
A Helper (for a few steps)

Removing the Lights:
- For the Left side, turn the steering wheel all the wy to the left. Far right for Right Side.
- Remove 4 screws (Philips)from the bottom of the rear of the wheel well.
- About 10 inches up from there is a Plastic Pop Rivet. Wedge the Flat head under the center of the pop rivet and pry the center up. Once its up, just pull on the whole thing to remove it.
- The bottom half of the plastic that those 5 things held in place should be pretty loose now. Grab the far side and push towards the center of the car. This should pop the plastic peice loose from the fender's edge.
- You need to pry back enough material to reach your hand up inside the fender and touch the back of the Side Marker.
- The Side Marker is held into the body panel with 2 pressure clips (one on each side) of the light. Press in one, and push and the light should just pop out.
- Disconnect the Plug from the back of the light
- LIGHT is now removed and should look like this:

(Notice the connector has 2 pins in the middle)
- If your doing the rest of this all at once, you can pop the plastic wheel well cover into its groove and put back the 4 screws and the pop rivet. Just make sure the Power connector is hanging outside the car and wont fall back inside. Though you could use a coat hanger or something to get it out again if it falls in.

Opening the Light:
- The light assembly is a sealed unit and needs to be opened to access the Lights.
- The Left side I opened with a dremel, but even on low it melted the plastic something feirce. The right side I used a small hobby hacksaw which was a much cleaner, although still imperfect.

- As you can see from the pic, you want to cut in as close to the bottom (round connector) as possible, while making sure to be able to remove the Circuit Board and glue the peices back together)
- Keep in mind while cutting, you do NOT want to cut too deep as you may damage the Resistors under the PCB

- Now you can see the 2 LEDs mounted to the PCB, and the 2 power pins in the middle that come from the round connector.
- Remove the 2 screws holding the PCB down.

Remove Existing LEDs:
- This is where things get interesting, as you have to remove the PCB from the plastic housing in order to easily get to the solder points holding the Lights in. This is also why I reccomended 2 soldering irons and a helper.

- Mark which side of the PCB that matches the side of the connector with the notches in it so you know which way to connect things when you put it back together.
- As you can see from this Picture, I found if you wedge something sturdy under the screw hole mounts, the plastic and PCB will both flex away from each other.

- If you can do this and then heat both solder points in the middle at the same time, the 2 power pins should be seperated from the PCB. Or have a helper pull up on the PCB while you heat the solder points.
- NOTE: Be careful when using the soldering iron to heat these connections, as you can burn off the traces if you over heat them.
- With the Plasic peice removed, flip the assembly over to see the 4 solder points per LED.

- Here You pretty much NEED a helper. I had my Darling Wife use a Jewlers flat head screwdriver to apply pressure to the LED from under the PCB. At the same time, heat the 2 solder points closest to the screwdriver. The 2 posts will slip out the bottom, bending the other 2 slightly (But who cares, your replacing them!)
- Push the screwdriver in further and use a twisting motion while heating the other 2 points.
- Rinse and repeat until the little bugger pops out.
- Again, do NOT OVERHEAT the connections.
- Repeat the last few steps for the other LED.

Install the New LEDs:

- Use the solder wick to remove the excess solder from every empty hole.
- If you have never used solder wick, you place the wick over the solder and then heat the solder through the wick. Slide the wick and the soldering iron off the hole together so the wick doesnt stick to the PCB. Hit different holes each time so you dont overheat one. When you have an inch or so on the Wick used up, cut off the end to make it easier to use.
- Put the new LEDs into the PCB. Notice the LED has one corner thats shaved off, which matches markings on the PCB.
- With the LEDs places, turn the assembly over and solder them in from the back. You only need a little solder on each one and as always, Dont Overheat the board or the light.
- Now is a good time to use some sandpaper or a file to even out the edges of the 2 plastic peices.
- Clean off the 2 power connectors with the solder wick before reinstalling the PCB onto the power posts. Be sure to line up the previous marking you mde with the side of the connector that has the notches in it.
- Put the screws back in to hold the PCB Down.

If you have access to a 12v power source, you can use it to apply + and - to the center posts and test the new LEDs before putting it all back together. I used a Universal Power Adapter from Homeboy Depot to test mine as it was only like $10. HOWEVER, the little fucker puts out 12v on the 7.5v setting and 18v on the 12v setting, so I reccomend using a Volt Meter to check your source unless you r 100% sure its 12v.


Finishing the Job:

- With the plastic peices sanded down to get rid of any burs or bumps, use the Plastic Epoxy or even simple SuperGlue to put the peices back together.
- Notice that one corner of the main housing has a plastic bump in it, and the PCB has 2 adjacent corners with notces in them. This lines the 2 peices back up only one way.
- When you re-attach the 2 peices, make sure you dont get any glue or epoxy on the LEDs. If some gets on the PCB it shouldnt be a big deal.
- Read the plastic epoxy instructions to determine how long you have to keep the peices together. before they are permanently bonded. Mine was 5 minutes.
- Now just re-attach the whole unit to the plug you left hanging out of the hole. (Make sure it snaps)
- Push the light into the hole until both Pressure clips pop into place and it wont come back out.
- Turn on the Cars lights to test the side marker(s)
- If you didnt put the wheel well back together earlier, and your light(s) work, go ahead and button it up now.

Das it folks.

Here are some bad pics I just took now that its dark. No flash and a shaky hand mean they didnt come out great, but you get the idea.


So other than your time, this only costs:
~10 for the LEDs
~5 for the Glue/Epoxy
~2 for a small roll of Solder Wick
As for the Soldering Iron and Solder, I akready had them so I have no idea.

And for my West Side homies Salut, Owl, VTECH, Ward, etc..... YES, I will help you if you like.

cM3go

Excellent post! Finally someone has done the mod many have been wondering/talking about. Great job Casper!

Oswald Vater

Thumbs up here, too! While I've no interest in doing this particular mod myself your instructions for those who want to were impeccable. This is the kind of post that makes AZ such a great forum.

J RIDE 81

Wow great post, Great Pictures, Great look!

GQS

Great post Casper, should be very helpful to those interested in doing this mod.

Has anyone figured out what you would have to do to make the side markers blink with the turn signals?

Lokius

holy shit, I am going to smoke both my side markers in the front and rear, and putting in some bright white led's is something I will have to do as well. Great job casper, we owe you big time!

Casper42

There is another thread in here somewhere with a diagram of the blinking circuit. The guys who had done this mod accessed the components the same way I did, by going in through the wheel well. I will try to find that thread and link it in here. May as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you want them to blink too.

Casper42

Digram of Blinking Side Markers Here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80424

Longer Discussion on the Blinking here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/even-nypd-loves-cl-s-66329/

need4spd

Nice mod Casper42

rets

Wow... I'll make sure everyone in teh future could easily find this thread. Thanks.




Ron A, thanks.

Lokius

I am for sure going to have you help me, god casper you are the man... Maybe this summer when we have a huge so-cal meet, we can do like 10 cars at once, and just power through them!

ward148

Props to you once again Casper!!! You’re the first to find a local place that can clear headlights, now you tackle this project....Looks incredible man, can’t what until I’m done with this mod. (Man I feel like such a copy cat) It was also great meeting you and the crew this weekend. Now more then ever I can’t what for the next meet. (Definitely going to stay alot longer next time, man was I bitter driving home from the meet so early)

Casper42

Thanks Ward, I'm gonna copy your Signal Lights pretty soon though, so its all circular. If you see me flying up Tapo Cyn flag me down so I can see those lights in the dark.

Bonus Points if you can name this: "I bet it looks crispy in the dark"

Nodoze2004

Very nice and thorough post with well detailed procedures.....but I don't get it?

Now the colors are all inconsistent along the side of the vehicle. You have the amber turn signals, and the bluish hue of the new LED's!? I can absolutely understand someone wanting to make them blink, but this I don't get!?

To each his own I guess!

Still a nice job on the post though!

Casper42

Nodoze - Actually I had my Turn Signals Cleared the first week I had the car. That yellow nasty-ness is the OEM Bulb with nothing between it and the camera.

This is why I told Ward I was gonna copy his Signal Lights, because he went with PIAA Extreme White Bulbs for the Signal Lights, which produce a much more "white" light.

Once I get those same Bulbs installed, and Probably Swap out the Fog Lights for a more pure white light as well, I hope to have ALL the lights on the front of the car match (The HIDs and each other) as much as possible. To me this will give the whole front end a very nice Clean look.

Lokius

That will look great Casper, but that is probably guranteed to get you a ticket, white turn signals, with white side markers and your HID's... it will look so amazing though...

ward148

Hey Casper, maybe tonight or tomorrow night we can meet somewhere, definitely would love to see your mod at night! (As then you can see mine).........ok my bad, that sounds alittle gay........ But anyways I wont be home until about 6-6:30 this week. Send me a PM if your interested sometime this week! (i'll check my PM when i get home, no damn internet at work)

crazymjb

Ooh, pretty lights. Thats great, looks really nice. If it were me getting the car instead of my father I would definatly do it, but I have a feeling he wont let me take apart his first expensive/luxery car.

ward148

I don’t think it’s illegal to have white side markers or turn signals. As long as it’s from your side mirrors on up, but I could be wrong!

J-roc

Does anybody know what kind of light bulb will match the side marker for its color. I have cleared my headlight and would like to match the turn signals with the side markers. Thanks

crazymjb

Using white turn signals could get you screwed. But I am sure some reverse bulbs will work. Is it possible to get that smoke colored housing for the rear side marker?

ward148

In California white is Legal, not sure about your State though.

VEHICLE CODE
SECTION 24950-24953

24953. (a) Any turn signal system used to give a signal of
intention to turn right or left shall project a flashing white or
amber light visible to the front and a flashing red or amber light
visible to the rear.

As for the smoked sides, i tried taking out one of the fronts and putting it in the back. (Not even close, different size holes in the back)

Casper42

Interested in this Mod?


For you SoCal people who like this idea, I am getting a meet together to actually DO it to people's cars. This way if your not experienced with soldering or just want help, you will have plenty of it.

Looks to be 2 or 3 people meeting so far.
Location is yet undetermined and unless a good location is found, it will default to my house in Simi Valley.
Date is tenatively planned for either 25th or 26th of June (~3 weeks away)

https://acurazine.com/forums/acurazine-clubs-meets-15/3g-tl-socal-led-mods-mini-meet-planning-stage-306539/ Go here for more details on the MEET
If you just have questions about the mod itself, reply to this thread your reading now. I'm always glad to answer any questions.

Casper42

Try a standard Amber 7443 Turn Signal Bulb
Ours are white filament bulbs which produce a yellowish white color.
But an Amber filament bulb should produce a more amber color and a closer match to the Side Marker.

Should only cost like $10 to $20 for the pair as well, so its not a huge loss if you dont like the color.



As you can see, personally I went the other way. I made the Side Markers white and will be trying different "Extreme White" 7443 bulbs to find a pure white bulb that matches my modified side markers.
I just ordered some "PIAA Xtreme White 19226" 7443 bulbs ($18) and some "PIAA Xtreme White Plus 9006 Halogen Light Bulb" ($73) and should have them early next week.
I'll make Ward give me a second opinion some night next week as to whether they match the HIDs or not. He either has the same, or similar PIAA 7443s in his ride currently.

Ron A

Actually it will be better if you reply to the SoCal LED mods thread in the Acurazine Meets Forum.

That way I won't have to close this thread, since all discussions on meets should be in the Meets Forum.

Casper42

I guess I was mis understood.

If you have questions about the mod, meaning how to get to the light, what type of soldering iron I used, etc etc etc, you SHOULD post them here because thats about the Mod.

If you have questions on what you need to bring, where the meet will be, how drunk can you get before I toss you out, then that goes in the Meets link above.

Ron A

Yes you were misunderstood. My bad. I guess I misread "mod" as "meet". Your post was perfectly worded, and I apologize for the confusion.

moahdib

The bulb that comes with your car is amber.
After clearing my headlights the color for the turn light perfectly matches the side markers.
Don't like it much myself tho.. I wanna go all white to match the HID.

KMProduct

does anyone know if nyc allows the color white to be legal like cali ?

leedogg

Excellent. Here's the thread I wanted

Any Hi flux led works? Can somebody verify that these will work?

http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/spl300cw/

specifically the spl 330 series?

rbf351

in NY the front blinkers can be either amber or white

Casper42

I have a feeling they will NOT work

If you look at the ones I said to use, there are 2 Cathodes and 2 Anodes (the + and - when dealing with Power/Batteries)
The 330 model you linked to looks like it has 3 Anodes and only 1 Cathode.
The 300 and 301 however seem to be an exact replacement for the ones I linked to at superbrightleds.com

rbf351

i've read up on these LED's, and from what i have read, you don't have to attach both contacts, as long as you have 1 anode and 1 cathode they will work. so these other LEDS(330's) should work with no issues

brettallica

Absolutely MAD PROPS to Casper42 for setting this up. One of the first things that bugged me about the exterior lighting on my car (aside from the :ghey: turn signals) was the amber side markers. One thing I would stress is that you have solder wick (just backing up what Casper has already said), as it makes the project TONS easier, and I would also make sure you have a good solder gun. Another recommendation: use a Dremel for straightest lines, especially if you're good with that tool. If you're not comfortable with it, then a simple fine-tooth hobby saw/pocket saw might be your best bet.

These markers will be installed tomorrow, and pics might be posted as well.

Fantastic write-up for sure! Thanks again to Casper42!

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

bretallica,
Funny, we must have been doing these at the same time. Same comments, mad props to Casper for this write up.

Just a couple of notes from my experience.

1) I used the 5mm (stock is 3mm) white high flux leds and they are brighter than the rears. Look like I'll "upgrade" the TL-S smoked rear side markers next weekend with 5mm red leds.
Now I gotta clear my headlights.

2) I used a common hacksaw to cut them open. Worked like a charm, nice clean cuts

3) I used NO solder braid. I learned a neat technique for removing excess solder from my XBOX modding days. I use a can of compressed air (computer duster).
Take your solder gun and touch it to the contact that needs to be cleaned. When the solder gets hot and start to flow, blast it quickly with the compressed air. The solder sprays out the other side. Use the gun or your fingernail to scrape the excess off the board (light pressure). It's messy, and you have to clean up the splatter to prevent "jumping traces", but it works. You may have to do it a couple of times to get rid of all the excess solder.

4) As part of the "wedging", where his wife helped, I just took a pair of pliers and wedged them between the board and the led and applied light pressure. When you touch the solder iron to it, the led pops free.

It took about 3 hours for the whole thing, the hardest and longest part was definately the hacksawing... but I did it solely with a CRAPPY old soldering iron and hacksaw, all by myself... No other tools or help required.

jptl04

iTrader: (1)

this is what i used for desoldering the LEDs works great no mess and it's cheap, it heats up the contacts and then sucks up the liquified solder http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Now that's cool. There are 3 radioshacks n my area and they ALL BLOW. All they carry is toys and cellphones now.

brettallica

Yeah, we must have been doing this thing right at the same time. Totally funny. I'm done with the install now. The wheel well paneling was easy to peel back, but I had a friggin' b-tch of a time getting my hand in there to dislodge the old marker. I think my wrists and hands are too big to do it comfortably....anyway, it was worth the few scratches I got from shoving my arm up in that tight spot, as it looks awesome now.

I'll keep my eye on the mismatching-ness between the front and back markers. I still haven't seen them at night in person, so tonight is going to be the big test.

Also, thanks for the tips. I might consider some of your tips if I do this again in the future. As far as the wedging of the LEDs to remove them from the board, I only did that for the first one I modified. For the second, I just cut them off with my Dremel, then used the solder wick to remove the remaining solder globs and LED leads. The second method worked way better for me; those leads are cut pretty easily and you don't have to worry about applying pressure (bending) of the board while prying the LEDs out.

At any rate, it's cool how we all have our own little techniques and that we've all been successful.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Good idea to cut the leds off. Didn't even think of that.

FYI, I was inspecting the rear side markers becasue the brightness difference kinda bugs me. It appears the rear have 3 leds inside the circuit board.

So, if you order, you'll need 6.

brettallica

Have you done the rears yet? I'm curious to see how well it came out and if it satisfied your brightness matching requirements. For me, I do notice the brightness difference, but I kind of like it actually. In addition, when I do the clear turn signal mod up front, it'll look a little bit better I think because the turn signals I'll be using are going to be white-ish/blue in color and BRIGHT.

Also, did you consider going with white LEDs for the rear markers? That might look kind of hot. No more red!