CV axle fitment question
#41
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Not sure what to do about my ruined boot now though...
#42
Burning Brakes
You just need to give it a VERY HARD kick with your foot on top of the rotor/brake dust shield then it should pop. But before you do that, take a 3lb hammer and nail the outside of the lower control arm around the ball joint repeatedly. The key is to break the rust bond between the ball joint and the lower control arm.
Last edited by t-rd; 06-03-2019 at 06:30 PM.
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zeta (06-03-2019)
#43
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all of the advice guys. The job is finally done and the car is driving smooth. The only casualty was the boot of the lower control arm, where I accidentally pried it up and exposed that grease. I will be doing both axles with new replacements soon here, this was just to get me driving back to work asap with a cheap replacement.
Here's the old axle. You can tell the donut/harmonizer just traps that salt, dirt, and water. Yikes. I'm afraid to look under the one on the pass. side!
Here's the old axle. You can tell the donut/harmonizer just traps that salt, dirt, and water. Yikes. I'm afraid to look under the one on the pass. side!
#44
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
Wow! That's
They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??
Wow! That's
They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??
Last edited by zeta; 06-03-2019 at 07:13 PM.
#45
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
^
Wow! That's
They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??
Wow! That's
They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??
#46
Race Director
Who is "they"? Do "they" really think a silicon bead will last more than a week? Just asking....
#47
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I forgot to add that I ended up bringing out the ol' farm socket set - a 1.5" thick, 2'+ long breaker, and i used the extension (maybe about a foot long?) to wedge into that gap, which 1.5" snugly fit. Then i used a full sized sledgehammer to bang it away. Took a few minutes, but size really does matter in this situation as I found out. What a waste of a trip to the auto parts store! lol
Improvise, adapt and overcome.
Gunny Highway would proudly say, OO-RAH!
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TheSauceBoss (06-03-2019)
#48
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I read it here somewhere, over the years, as a potential deterrent to a problem experienced for the northern folks.
I hear you.
Logically thinking, if I lived up in your neck of the woods, maybe a better way of saying it could be: Would it hurt?
Practically, if I were to use this recommendation, I would clean the axle shaft area, around the damper, as thoroughly as possible with a solvent and then apply silicone, either in a 'bead' and/or slather said silicone around the rubber damper edges, let it fully cure and hope for the best. Figuring that anything that would hamper or slow down salt/grime intrusion would be a plus.
Logically thinking, if I lived up in your neck of the woods, maybe a better way of saying it could be: Would it hurt?
Practically, if I were to use this recommendation, I would clean the axle shaft area, around the damper, as thoroughly as possible with a solvent and then apply silicone, either in a 'bead' and/or slather said silicone around the rubber damper edges, let it fully cure and hope for the best. Figuring that anything that would hamper or slow down salt/grime intrusion would be a plus.
#49
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
CV axle fitment question
So per a recent post, I snapped and replaced a CV axle with a used OEM one.
I wanted something more sustainable than a $30 used OEM one, so I asked around and a couple people suggested the APW ones off of Rockauto.
The APWs showed up at my door a few days ago, but I immediately noticed that they do not have the inner thread/spline on one side of the axle.
So now I'm wondering if rockauto sent me the wrong axles (these were the ones I bought...one pic shows them with the threads, the other doesn't... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...429130&jsn=353 )
Or, if i need to transfer the existing one on my old axle onto this new one (which I don't know if that's common, or going to be a PITA)
Has anyone that's rebuilt their CV's - is this a difficult part to transfer over? I haven't done anything besides lay them down next to eachother in the garage for a second, so I'll take a closer look tonight. Thank for any input.
I wanted something more sustainable than a $30 used OEM one, so I asked around and a couple people suggested the APW ones off of Rockauto.
The APWs showed up at my door a few days ago, but I immediately noticed that they do not have the inner thread/spline on one side of the axle.
So now I'm wondering if rockauto sent me the wrong axles (these were the ones I bought...one pic shows them with the threads, the other doesn't... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...429130&jsn=353 )
Or, if i need to transfer the existing one on my old axle onto this new one (which I don't know if that's common, or going to be a PITA)
Has anyone that's rebuilt their CV's - is this a difficult part to transfer over? I haven't done anything besides lay them down next to eachother in the garage for a second, so I'll take a closer look tonight. Thank for any input.
#50
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Did you order two (right) APWI HO8398's? One goes into the half shaft assembly.
If so, you have two passenger side axles.
APWI HO8369 is (left) the driver side axle. This one goes in to the driver side trans. case.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432641&jsn=335
If so, you have two passenger side axles.
APWI HO8369 is (left) the driver side axle. This one goes in to the driver side trans. case.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432641&jsn=335
#51
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Did you order two (right) APWI HO8398's? One goes into the half shaft assembly.
If so, you have two passenger side axles.
APWI HO8369 is (left) the driver side axle. This one goes in to the driver side trans. case.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432641&jsn=335
If so, you have two passenger side axles.
APWI HO8369 is (left) the driver side axle. This one goes in to the driver side trans. case.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432641&jsn=335
#52
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
Here's to you getting long life from these APWI's.
Here's to you getting long life from these APWI's.
#55
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
#59
I just gambled and bought a Surtrack/trakmotive drivers side axle on Rockauto. Will let you guys know how it goes.
Wanted to order APWI, but for some reason shipping was cheaper to order surtrack with the other parts i was getting. Only upside I guess is the Lifetime warranty with Surtrack/Trakmotive.
I skipped the Cardone as an option completely. Have read mixed things.
Wanted to order APWI, but for some reason shipping was cheaper to order surtrack with the other parts i was getting. Only upside I guess is the Lifetime warranty with Surtrack/Trakmotive.
I skipped the Cardone as an option completely. Have read mixed things.
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#61
Race Director
Aren't you getting a nagging cough and chills?... could be the flu... better stay home tomorrow
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TheSauceBoss (06-11-2019)
#62
KIACertAutoTechnician
Update?
I'm considering getting the APWI's
Did it take away the shaking/vibrations?
Quality and ease of install? (Fitment, all the right parts,etc?)
Its either APWI's or DSS's for inexpensive options.
Let us know how it turned out!
CHERRS!
Maxx
Did it take away the shaking/vibrations?
Quality and ease of install? (Fitment, all the right parts,etc?)
Its either APWI's or DSS's for inexpensive options.
Let us know how it turned out!
CHERRS!
Maxx
#63
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
My APWIs went in perfectly and have been vibration free for nine months and 10,000 miles.
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DMZ (05-31-2020),
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FGbG-Tech CyberModz3D (06-08-2020)
#65
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
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04ManualTL (06-06-2020)
#66
KIACertAutoTechnician
#67
10th Gear
#69
Latent car nut
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#74
#76
Head a da Family
Join Date: Jul 2003
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Why waste your money? Go with the replacements from rockuto! I have them and they work fine.
.
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Midnight Mystery (05-04-2022)
#78
i had the same problem with my 2010 tl. the reason they wouldnt fit my car is because the automatic and manual axles are just slightly different. the bearing in my jack shaft, half shaft, whatever you prefer to call it, is going bad and causing a vibration at higher speeds. everytime i ordered the shaft, it was the wrong one, no matter where i got it. i kinda gave up on it too because i dont drive the car much and it isnt that bad yet but a bit annoying. so, if your ever changing your passenger axle, confirm it is for your type of transmission. side by side, they look identical too. but if you count the splines, they are not the same. maybe someone else already covered this but in case they didnt , here ya go
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