Confirming some transmission info.
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Confirming some transmission info.
Well, time to write that all again given my laptops deciding to just refresh the page before hitting submit!
So, I'm glad I had the day off today, I've spent nearly 4 hours researching all things transmission service, thinking I was just going to confirm the fluid type and process...well..I was quite wrong there! Many thanks to IHC, Inaccurate, and many others for so much info. I now am definitely happy I am pursuing my own car maintenance over letting the local oil can henry's or dealer touch my car, along with most mechanics. I am also astounded my car has done so well, with so few things needing to be fixed or replaced outside of oil/breaks/tires/etc, while having no really noticeable problems. But time to make that last.
For quick context: 08 TL with 170k miles, large amounts of driving in both city, highway and inbetween, with recent timing belt etc. and upstream O2 sensor replacements (Can't believe they both made it fine past 160k), alternator done maybe 50k miles ago. Transmission fluid was automatically flushed and replaced at an oil can henry's maybe 50k miles ago, but to my knowledge (I got the car at 55k from the dealer) it has otherwise never had the transmission served, and has never had the pressure switches or filter replaced, and likely has all been OEM Z1 ATF. I live in the PNW in Oregon, so rarely below 25 degrees or above 90, with 95% of the year being between 35-85 (really mostly 60-70).
Soooo my current plan as far as I can tell is the below, with my #1 priority being transmission and overall car longevity, and if somehow we upped fuel mileage, awesome:
-Replace the ATF with a 3x3 via redline racing ATF (Type F synthetic), maybe with a 2:1 ratio of normal to lightweight. All at once or across some time doesn't likely matter too much.
-Replace the pressure switches and filter whenever able, likely best to replace the filter after the fluid is all changed if anything.
-?
-Profit
My questions fall to these, assuming the above is not incorrect:
-Do you have a brand that you prefer for the filter, or the pressure switches? I see a filter brand mentioned, but the majority of the information seems to be from 7-8 years ago.
-I see some mention to washers and gaskets being replaced, but inconsistently. Do I need to replace these, and/or anything else?
-Anything else I may want to know, having done almost nothing for self car service before besides my B1S1 O2 sensor and some air filters.
Much appreciate any help! I know many of these questions have been done to death but a few of the details I don't seem to be able to find consistently, especially for a stock TL with this many miles in a more moderate climate.
So, I'm glad I had the day off today, I've spent nearly 4 hours researching all things transmission service, thinking I was just going to confirm the fluid type and process...well..I was quite wrong there! Many thanks to IHC, Inaccurate, and many others for so much info. I now am definitely happy I am pursuing my own car maintenance over letting the local oil can henry's or dealer touch my car, along with most mechanics. I am also astounded my car has done so well, with so few things needing to be fixed or replaced outside of oil/breaks/tires/etc, while having no really noticeable problems. But time to make that last.
For quick context: 08 TL with 170k miles, large amounts of driving in both city, highway and inbetween, with recent timing belt etc. and upstream O2 sensor replacements (Can't believe they both made it fine past 160k), alternator done maybe 50k miles ago. Transmission fluid was automatically flushed and replaced at an oil can henry's maybe 50k miles ago, but to my knowledge (I got the car at 55k from the dealer) it has otherwise never had the transmission served, and has never had the pressure switches or filter replaced, and likely has all been OEM Z1 ATF. I live in the PNW in Oregon, so rarely below 25 degrees or above 90, with 95% of the year being between 35-85 (really mostly 60-70).
Soooo my current plan as far as I can tell is the below, with my #1 priority being transmission and overall car longevity, and if somehow we upped fuel mileage, awesome:
-Replace the ATF with a 3x3 via redline racing ATF (Type F synthetic), maybe with a 2:1 ratio of normal to lightweight. All at once or across some time doesn't likely matter too much.
-Replace the pressure switches and filter whenever able, likely best to replace the filter after the fluid is all changed if anything.
-?
-Profit
My questions fall to these, assuming the above is not incorrect:
-Do you have a brand that you prefer for the filter, or the pressure switches? I see a filter brand mentioned, but the majority of the information seems to be from 7-8 years ago.
-I see some mention to washers and gaskets being replaced, but inconsistently. Do I need to replace these, and/or anything else?
-Anything else I may want to know, having done almost nothing for self car service before besides my B1S1 O2 sensor and some air filters.
Much appreciate any help! I know many of these questions have been done to death but a few of the details I don't seem to be able to find consistently, especially for a stock TL with this many miles in a more moderate climate.
#2
I have no experience with redline fluid but I have used both the acura dw1 and valvoline max life muti vehicle. I like how the scar shifts better with the max life.
careful not to overfill. The fluid should be measured when it is hot as it expands when the temperature increases. This is in contrast to motor oil which you measure at any temp for an accurate reading. It may be easier to add the new fluid via the dipstick tube.
Its super easy to do... Just careful to get the right amount in there. If you do overfill just loosen the bolt til nearly out and it will spill out slowly but fast enough your not there for another 15 minutes. There is no servicable filter on our transmissions.
careful not to overfill. The fluid should be measured when it is hot as it expands when the temperature increases. This is in contrast to motor oil which you measure at any temp for an accurate reading. It may be easier to add the new fluid via the dipstick tube.
Its super easy to do... Just careful to get the right amount in there. If you do overfill just loosen the bolt til nearly out and it will spill out slowly but fast enough your not there for another 15 minutes. There is no servicable filter on our transmissions.
Last edited by stevemk07; 03-15-2018 at 07:16 PM.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Danke, I rather thought I saw a bit about the filter side to those ends. It seems that most people get about 3-3.5 quarts in there, how do you suggest going about making sure not to over fill and by what standard you measure? I have several guides open for the process, but would love your input outside of those resources.
#4
Suzuka Master
I use DW1, if your car park on ground level just jack the car up and remove the drain plug (WARNING make sure you able loose the fill bolt before crack the drain plug) let it drain into a catch container.
If you want get maximum amount of fluid out lower the car so it can sit on 4 wheel and wait about 5 min. when refill I can tell you that put the first 3 quarts in with no worry and as for topping it off you need to slowly adding fluid and check your dip stick accordingly. I always leave mine 70% between the low and high mark as ATF will expand once you drive the car.
If you want get maximum amount of fluid out lower the car so it can sit on 4 wheel and wait about 5 min. when refill I can tell you that put the first 3 quarts in with no worry and as for topping it off you need to slowly adding fluid and check your dip stick accordingly. I always leave mine 70% between the low and high mark as ATF will expand once you drive the car.
#5
Danke, I rather thought I saw a bit about the filter side to those ends. It seems that most people get about 3-3.5 quarts in there, how do you suggest going about making sure not to over fill and by what standard you measure? I have several guides open for the process, but would love your input outside of those resources.
#6
For the transmission fluid the 2:1 ratio is Racing ATF (Regular/Lightweight) to D4. Too much Racing will destroy the trans. I also noticed you said you did or were going to do a transmission flush. DO NOT FLUSH YOUR TRANS! Simply let it drain on a level surface and refill it.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have no intention of flushing the transmission. That was done a few years back by a shop I took it to, when I had no idea what was supposed to be done.
I'm happy with a 2:1. Question is, in a moderate climate, any suggestions on the lightweight to normal racing ATF? 1:1 so that the overall mixture is 1 lightweight : 2 normal?
Much appreciate the comments on measuring.
I'm happy with a 2:1. Question is, in a moderate climate, any suggestions on the lightweight to normal racing ATF? 1:1 so that the overall mixture is 1 lightweight : 2 normal?
Much appreciate the comments on measuring.
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#8
Pro
I have no intention of flushing the transmission. That was done a few years back by a shop I took it to, when I had no idea what was supposed to be done.
I'm happy with a 2:1. Question is, in a moderate climate, any suggestions on the lightweight to normal racing ATF? 1:1 so that the overall mixture is 1 lightweight : 2 normal?
Much appreciate the comments on measuring.
I'm happy with a 2:1. Question is, in a moderate climate, any suggestions on the lightweight to normal racing ATF? 1:1 so that the overall mixture is 1 lightweight : 2 normal?
Much appreciate the comments on measuring.
#9
Thanks Joe, couldn't get it in time lol
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