Clutch Question-OE vs Normal clutch
#1
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Clutch Question-OE vs Normal clutch
I've read this somewhere before, & I've been searching all night, but can't find it. I know our 3G TL has an abnormal clutch/flywheel setup. But what is it again that makes it different/abnormal/opposite from a standard clutch/flywheel setup?
#2
Dual mass flywheel is all I can think of. Sucks since AFAIK you can't resurface it.
I'm dreading clutch time. Not ready to tackle it on my own and I've got three quotes over $2k. I think they're trying to screw me on parts though. Might end up sourcing my own and paying a shop the labor.
I'm dreading clutch time. Not ready to tackle it on my own and I've got three quotes over $2k. I think they're trying to screw me on parts though. Might end up sourcing my own and paying a shop the labor.
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OculiAquilae (05-27-2016)
#3
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
Most clutch systems use a solid flywheel and a clutch disc with springs refered to as a sprung clutch disc. On the TL and many other newer cars they changed to a setup with the flywheel being sprung or having springs to absorb shock from the flywheel and clutch disc is solid with no springs or give to it. Going to the traditional sprung disc solid flywheel is the way to go if you can for a more normal clutch feel. Check out some of our vendors like heel toe automotive for solid flywheel kits.
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OculiAquilae (05-27-2016)
#4
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Nothing really abnormal about it. A standard dual mass flywheel should be replaced whenever the clutch gets replaced. The best place to buy from is rockauto. $172.79 for the clutch kit and $204.79 for the flywheel. Best yet, you're getting OEM parts without the Honda name stamped on them!
Labor really shouldn't be more than around $600-$700
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Labor really shouldn't be more than around $600-$700
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The following 2 users liked this post by DMZ:
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OculiAquilae (05-27-2016)
#5
2007 6SMT Type-S
Before you have the clutch serviced, do yourself a favor and complete the slave cylinder check valve delete. This thing prematurely wears out your clutch. Mine went at 70K but a woman owned my car previously.......
I had my clutch replaced with all OEM parts purchased from online Acura dealer. List price for the FW alone was like $1,000. I think I paid $600 if memory serves me correctly.
I asked several shops if they could do the service but they all ended up saying they needed a "special tool" to replace the FW. Took mine to the local Honda dealer. Car came back with serious road rash to wheels and fenders. Thats a story for another day.
I had my clutch replaced with all OEM parts purchased from online Acura dealer. List price for the FW alone was like $1,000. I think I paid $600 if memory serves me correctly.
I asked several shops if they could do the service but they all ended up saying they needed a "special tool" to replace the FW. Took mine to the local Honda dealer. Car came back with serious road rash to wheels and fenders. Thats a story for another day.
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OculiAquilae (05-27-2016)
#6
Burning Brakes
I haven't seen anybody mention it but the OEM clutch is a Self-Adjusting-Clutch (SAC) this means that the pressure plate and clutch engagement point remains the same through out the life of the clutch, with a Non-SAC clutch the engagement point will be varied throughout the life cycle of the clutch, which may require adjustment to maintain the engagement point relative to clutch pedal travel.
Everyone else has mentioned the Dualmass flywheel and solid clutch disc that the TL has instead of the single mass flywheel and sprung clutch disc.
Here's my clutch replacement thread so you can see some of the differences and my review on an aftermarket set up "normal clutch"
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...nstall-939621/
Everyone else has mentioned the Dualmass flywheel and solid clutch disc that the TL has instead of the single mass flywheel and sprung clutch disc.
Here's my clutch replacement thread so you can see some of the differences and my review on an aftermarket set up "normal clutch"
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...nstall-939621/
The following 2 users liked this post by 6spd-GERCO:
OculiAquilae (05-27-2016),
peewizzle (05-28-2016)
#7
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Yeah, yeah. DMF, that's what I was looking for. Idk why for the life of me I couldn't think of the name. Of course it doesn't help when you can't even remember the manner in which your 'clutch is different' in the first place, which isn't really different. But anyway.
Any yeah, I know I need to do the SC check valve delete. I bought a new SC to get the check valve out. I spent over an hour trying to get it out, which no luck. I used a set of picks and everything. Even hit the cap to loosen up tension, but still no such luck. I'm definitely doing it when I end up having to do my clutch.
As far as labor and shops. I have a mechanic who knows his shit and works cheap. Works as a mechanic by day, and from home on the side. So naturally we take our cars to him when he's 'not working' ha. Ideally I'll get to do it with him, so I can see first hand how to do it for future reference.
And yeah, I was debating going with the OE kit/parts, but I think I'm gonna end up going with the XLR8 Daily kit:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...review-926577/
XLR8 Clutch System - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Any yeah, I know I need to do the SC check valve delete. I bought a new SC to get the check valve out. I spent over an hour trying to get it out, which no luck. I used a set of picks and everything. Even hit the cap to loosen up tension, but still no such luck. I'm definitely doing it when I end up having to do my clutch.
As far as labor and shops. I have a mechanic who knows his shit and works cheap. Works as a mechanic by day, and from home on the side. So naturally we take our cars to him when he's 'not working' ha. Ideally I'll get to do it with him, so I can see first hand how to do it for future reference.
And yeah, I was debating going with the OE kit/parts, but I think I'm gonna end up going with the XLR8 Daily kit:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...review-926577/
XLR8 Clutch System - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
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#8
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
If you cut a notch in the lip around the cap of the SC, it makes it much easer to remove the retaining clip and cap. Google "3G TL sc check valve removal" and check out images. There should be at least one pic of the notch cut into the lip that surrounds the cap you are trying to remove to get the check valve out.
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