truonghthe

just did this on Sat and let me add that for the 07-08 TL the sensor locate in front of the LCA bushing if you look at OP pic (totally inside the sub-frame), you will have to peel the fender liner back to gain access to it. Also you will need an adjustable wrench to unbolt the shifting cable and the nut that tighten the little shaft since they are design to lock the bolt once it sit in place.

Chasep17

I have the exact same problem with my 04 tl type s? Can I use the same part and is this a temporary transmission fix?

alexb92

truonghthe

^^^either that or he must bought one 04 that already has Type S badge lol.

JohnDoe2

My symptoms....(rough numbers):

When first starting out, the engine will rev to over 3000 RPM before shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Normally it shifts at 2000 RPM.

It only does this once when cold. After which, everything is fine.

Is this the same issue?

truonghthe

N0.

CasperJ

I don't mean to start a dead thread. But once you changed this range sensor did the problem with 'D' light blinking and engine light coming on go away? Also, is it the same process for 07 TL-S?

truonghthe

^^^^yes BTW read my post # 41.

fernanmd

I've been having the blinking D light issue, with a code of P1717. I plan on changing this switch, but what is the correct part number for a 2008 Acura TL base w/navi? Thanks

CasperJ

Transmission:
* 4th Gear Oil Pressure Switch (x2)
- 28600-RKE-004

* 3rd Gear Oil Pressure Switch (x1)
- 28610-RKE-004

* 10mm Gaskets (x3)
- 90471-PW7-A00

* Transmission Range Sensor Switch
- 28900-RYF-013


i have a 07 KBP TL-S, I have confirmed these part numbers with Acura

fernanmd

So i should change all these switches? And there's two 4th gear oil press switches?

CasperJ

I had the P1717 code and changing the transmission range sensor switch seems to fix that problem. As for the oil pressure switches, that is not related to the P1717 code, but they have been known to go bad after some time on the 04-06's but it's still a good idea to take care of your 07-08 the same way. While you're changing the range switch, might as well get the 3rd and 4th gear switches done too. And I use to think there was two 3rd gear but after some research in this forum it appears there's two 4th gear and one 3rd gear (ONLY for 07-08's). Acura database doesn't indicate which one is which but best to do more research, and then take the part numbers to them and through the part # you'll know which one is which. Also, they're colour coded (white for 3rd gear and grey for 4th gears, or vice versa I'm not too sure best to do more research). I'd suggest just read this thread from start to finish that's where I got my info from.

fernanmd

Ok cool. Thanks for the info!

CasperJ

Anytime! I love the info provided in this forum I would've never known the difference between the 04-06 to 07-08. Apparently when it comes to a few engine parts, transmission and suspension you really have to do your research between the two. Hopefully you're able to fix the issue! Let us know if it doesn't solve the problem

ua5_Tristan

Is this the same as the ua5 2003 tl type s range switch?? My current one is acting up as I have 230k miles on (what I believe to be) the original transmission. I know it's bound to go any time now but a little bit of money to fix the problem for a bit longer would great. Any feed back on this for 2003 tl type s would be VERY appreciated.
(Bought car w 212k and still runs like the day I bought it I think I really lucked out on this one)

eddie alvarez

hey alexb92 i have a similar ??? When i turn my car on in the morning i let it get to temperature i put it in reverse come to a stop and put it in drive and it wont grabb the gear but i put it in neutral and back to drive it grabbs the gear will the sensor u guys talking about could be causing the problem

alexb92

Bump, perhaps an admin could update the OP with the following information.

The part number for '04-'06 models is now 28900-RDG-023
The part number for '07-'08 models is now 28900-RYF-023

thoiboi

Thanks for this,

Added to garage and updated OP with new part numbers.

NoTLoud

Bumping this thread again as this issue is happening with my car currently. I have had two incidents in the last week.

First time I was getting of the highway on the way to work and my car downshifted and jumped from about 1500 RPM to over 3000. It sorted itself out pretty quickly, but I was still concerned. As the issue occured quickly, I didn't get a good look at what was going on with the gear indication lights.

The next day, I was heading to the dealership to have them look at another issue and the car dropped itself out of gear 3 times in a row. Essentially the same thing happened, cruising at 1500 RPM and then I can feel the car drop out of gear and it shot over 3000 RPM. It would get into gear for a second and then drop back out. After the third time of this occurring, the car seemed to fix itself. When this was occurring, the D light would disappear, it was NOT blinking.

The dealership didn't seem to have any real knowledge on this one. It didn't replicate any issues while the tech drove it. I had remembered reading this post because this issue had happened once, and only once, prior to this past weekend. Being paranoid, I wanted to have a fix ready if this issue popped up. The dealership service tech pointed me to the same transmission builder I had spoken to before. The tech vouched for this guy and having spoken to him once before, I know I will get my inevitable rebuild from him.

I went to the transmission builder. Based on what I told him with the D light disappearing, he also came to the conclusion that the Gear Position sensor, or Neutral Position sensor, as he called it, was going bad. I stopped by his shop yesterday and he ran the scanner, which showed no faults. He then showed me one of these sensors that he had pulled off another car. He took it apart and showed me why these fail. When opened up, the sensor is really just two pieces, each with copper contacts. There is a moving lever and then the actual sensor. The lever has spring loaded copper contacts on it that make contact with the actual sensor piece. What he showed me is that the copper contacts will get worn down and have grooves worn into them from moving back and forth on the sensor portion of the assembly. To fix this, he told me to take a piece of sandpaper to those contacts and remove the grooves. Since the copper contacts are spring loaded on the lever side, a little bit of sanding won't hurt them. He also told me to hit the sensor side with a little sanding as well.

In addition to the valuable information, he also told me he has never replaced one of these sensors on these transmissions. He has always just cleaned up these copper contacts and things have worked fine. He was not guaranteeing this would fix my issue, but given the symptoms listed by stewps, I am fairly certain this is the issue with my car.

I want to tackle this issue this weekend and I will try and document the process as best as I can and post the pictures to this thread. I believe this is an important issue to raise awareness on because it could prevent someone spending thousands on a rebuild. Like I said, the dealership was pretty convinced I needed a rebuild. I know not all transmission builder are as good as the one I have access to, so they may not know this is a cause of the issue and also spring for a full rebuild.

RRR

Last year I thought my automatic transmission was destroyed as it downshifted 1 or 2 gears by itself on the highway and it wouldn't let me upshift in manual mode. Once in the city driving it wouldn't go past 3rd gear from what I remember. Considering how far my commute was to work, I was considering selling the car and possibly finding a job closer to home during this situation. Thank you OP. Read this thread last year, did the pressure switches as well as the gear position sensor and AT fluid 3x3. My car has been running great ever since.

Sparky16

Any equivalent HONDA part available for this?
I would assume the part actually comes in Honda package, if it did, could be a few bucks cheaper . . . can anyone confirm?
Honda part number?

truonghthe

^^^^ as long as they are same part number from Honda vehicle you can use it. Check around...

redbeard1

Thanks OP, It's been almost two weeks and replacing the sensor seems to have worked.

I had very similar symptoms that started about six weeks ago when car lost power in cruise control for a second or two while on highway then went back to normal. Light blinked while this happened. Then a few weeks ago, D light went out and I was limited to 1,2, and 3 gear for entire drive. I read your post and replaced the sensor. Part was 80 with shipping. Service manual is very emphatic about lining up new switch selector position in neutral with selector control shaft in neutral.

Symptoms (as experienced by me)

• While driving, the D light would turn off and the transmission would subsequently downshift. [*****me too*******]
• While driving, the D light would periodically blink. [*****me too*******]
• While driving, and in tiptronic mode, the gear number would begin to flash. [*****no but I rarely use tiptonric*******]
• Putting the transmission into neutral and back into gear would fix any of the above symptoms. [*****never tired this*******]

One of the previous posters said cleaning the contacts would fix this. I took mine apart and it looked easy to clean but given the problem was inconsistent, I was not sure there was any way to test the part after cleaning to make sure the problem would not come back. I figured 80 was cheap price to pay for ease of mind. But in a pinch (If I needed to use car while waiting for part to arrive), I guess I would clean and reassemble.

redbeard1

Sorry, can't figure out how to edit earlier post. I forgot to mention, when the D light went out, I used an obd2 code reader. It registered code P0706. Service manual said this code was "transmission range switch (open)".

LipJones

I am having this same issue, any update on if replacing the tr switch will fix it?

Dan Shea

I performed the cleaning of the contacts. Wow, what a difference. I had done the 3X3 , changed the 3&4 pressure sensors and the Speed Sensor. The dreaded blinking green came on after changing those sensors. Once I lightly (high grit count) sanded the contacts in the Gear Position sensor, it shifted much smoother. I expect no more blinking green (for awhile)

mdw1000

Thanks for this DIY!!!

Also thanks to slpr04ua6 for sending me here!!!

nats007

Glad I found this thread... I've been having intermittent starting issues for my TL and I believe this is the culprit. Price for the for the switch is ~$100 now. I contemplated doing the DIY to try and fix it, but with 239K miles, I decided to order a new one along with the 3RD and 4th gear pressure switches.

V/R, Nats

abefroman

Is there a special trick to remove the tabs by the first nut? Mine don't want to move but don't want to force it and break something. Thanks

truonghthe

I use a flat head screw driver bent them slightly out so I can loosen the nut with a wrench.

abefroman

Ok, thanks