C-026: DIY Changing ATF (with Pics)
12-01-2011, 10:58 AM
#161
takin care of Business in
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^^^ trust me....it sure does....
i remember when i was doing my transmission drain and flush for the first time....i popped the wrong bolt (drain) open hahaha....i was like WTF....why is there no fluid coming out LOL....
i remember when i was doing my transmission drain and flush for the first time....i popped the wrong bolt (drain) open hahaha....i was like WTF....why is there no fluid coming out LOL....
12-01-2011, 03:54 PM
#162
I'm Craig
iTrader: (2)
Thanks buddy! Yes accessing the FILL BOLT is not an easy task. That's why I had to implement the stupid double funnel trick. What a ghetto rig. I produced the video back in August I think and then finally got to stitching the cuts together. I hope it helps out some people from beginning to end. 
-A ratchet extension makes opening the drain bolt much much easier as you don't have to move anything else around or squeeze your hand down in the engine compartment.
-The black splash shield can just be swung out of the way if you don't feel like completely removing it. I was lazy and did this.
-The new ATF smells terrible! I had to try not to gag.
Great video. Looks like your transmission is gonna thank you.
12-01-2011, 05:13 PM
#163
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Excellent DIY! You might contact a moderator to have them put it in the 3G garage. This would have been helpful when I changed mine a few weeks ago. My biggest struggle was getting the fill and drain bolts loose....you almost have to have a breaker bar for them. Couple of my observations:
-A ratchet extension makes opening the drain bolt much much easier as you don't have to move anything else around or squeeze your hand down in the engine compartment.
-The black splash shield can just be swung out of the way if you don't feel like completely removing it. I was lazy and did this.
-The new ATF smells terrible! I had to try not to gag.
Great video. Looks like your transmission is gonna thank you.
-A ratchet extension makes opening the drain bolt much much easier as you don't have to move anything else around or squeeze your hand down in the engine compartment.
-The black splash shield can just be swung out of the way if you don't feel like completely removing it. I was lazy and did this.
-The new ATF smells terrible! I had to try not to gag.
Great video. Looks like your transmission is gonna thank you.
ATF+worcestershire might make nice steak sauce.
12-04-2011, 08:15 PM
#165
Intermediate
Hi, I have a 2005 Acura TL with 118k miles and God knows when the last time my ATF was changed. I believe its still using the Honda Z1 fluid. Is it dangerous if I do the 3X3 with REDLINE TYPE-F fluid with 118k miles?
12-04-2011, 08:33 PM
#166
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^^^ Nope....i did it @ 150K miles on my 05....
Here is my thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/redline-my-system-820509/
but before you switch out and do a 4x3 with redline type F please do your research....go thro the following thread as well:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
Here is my thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/redline-my-system-820509/
but before you switch out and do a 4x3 with redline type F please do your research....go thro the following thread as well:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
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12-04-2011, 08:33 PM
#167
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
12-04-2011, 08:44 PM
#168
Intermediate
Thanks Swoosh, I've been trying to find Inaccurate this whole night! One question for you though, when you did a 4x3 with the type-f, did you do it all in one day or do a 1x3 once a month until you finished the 4x3?
12-04-2011, 08:54 PM
#169
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LOL guess u didnt read my thread....here is how i did it:
I like giving my car something and seeing how she reacts to it....with a flush at such a mileage you want to be extra careful....the car reacted just fine
Do go thro the other thread coz members have had problem running straight type F....hence they mix it with D4 and lightweight.....
147000 miles: Oil Change and Transmission 1x3
148000 miles: Transmission 1x3
149000 miles: Transmission 1x3
150000 miles: Oil Change and Transmission 1x3
The transmission fluid is changed every 1K miles until redline is in the system all the way, so that the transmission understands its not getting any more FM's and if something happens i can back out by throwing some Z-1 or the new DW-1 (correct me if am wrong) in there....
148000 miles: Transmission 1x3
149000 miles: Transmission 1x3
150000 miles: Oil Change and Transmission 1x3
The transmission fluid is changed every 1K miles until redline is in the system all the way, so that the transmission understands its not getting any more FM's and if something happens i can back out by throwing some Z-1 or the new DW-1 (correct me if am wrong) in there....
Do go thro the other thread coz members have had problem running straight type F....hence they mix it with D4 and lightweight.....
07-28-2012, 06:12 PM
#170
I used ramps and almost 4 qt. came out. Thanks for the picks and video.
07-28-2012, 06:30 PM
#171
Mons shaver
Do you jack/ramp it up so its level? Or do you want the car front lower/higher than the rear?
Also, I forgot, but I recall Swoosh recommending another type of ATF instead of Type F. Something that's in between the Z1 and Type F. Can someone remind me what that was? D4 or something?
Also, I forgot, but I recall Swoosh recommending another type of ATF instead of Type F. Something that's in between the Z1 and Type F. Can someone remind me what that was? D4 or something?
07-28-2012, 07:03 PM
#172
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Do you jack/ramp it up so its level? Or do you want the car front lower/higher than the rear?
Also, I forgot, but I recall Swoosh recommending another type of ATF instead of Type F. Something that's in between the Z1 and Type F. Can someone remind me what that was? D4 or something?
Also, I forgot, but I recall Swoosh recommending another type of ATF instead of Type F. Something that's in between the Z1 and Type F. Can someone remind me what that was? D4 or something?
D4 is between Type F and lightweight Type F...
a lot of people do this for a drain and refill....1xd4 + 1xtype F + 1xlightweight Type F....this gives 66% NON FM fluid and almost stock viscosity
08-13-2012, 09:39 AM
#174
After reading this I have a few questions:
1. What are the trq spec for both drain and fill bolts? Or just make it tight and snug?
2. I have everything to do the ATF change expect the o-ring replacements? Are they necessary or can I just reuse the old ones?
3. Does the 2008 TL need a filter change?
1. What are the trq spec for both drain and fill bolts? Or just make it tight and snug?
2. I have everything to do the ATF change expect the o-ring replacements? Are they necessary or can I just reuse the old ones?
3. Does the 2008 TL need a filter change?
10-13-2012, 08:42 PM
#176
Cruisin'
After reading this I have a few questions:
1. What are the trq spec for both drain and fill bolts? Or just make it tight and snug?
2. I have everything to do the ATF change expect the o-ring replacements? Are they necessary or can I just reuse the old ones?
3. Does the 2008 TL need a filter change? NO, IT IS AN INTERNAL FILTER!
I just did my first 2 transmission's drain and fill. My car is a 2008 Acura TL - Type S with 61,000 miles. A couple of things of note:
1. The fill bolt labeled ATF is very hard to get off (Acura had to get it off for me). I did not have a breaker bar or 6" or 10" extensions. The bolt does "pop" every time I loosen it!
2. I used Rhino-Ramps and and just drove on up and set the E-brake!
3. I loosened the drain-plug with a 3/8" extension and it took a little man strength, okay a rubber mallet!
4. I was able to drain out 4 quarts the first drain and fill, and a little over 4 quarts on the 2nd.
5. The magnetic plug looked pretty rough the 1st time, completely clean the 2nd time after 200 miles.
6. I used Redline D4 ATF, ordered from Outdoorpros for $116 for 12 quarts.
7. After the 1st drain and fill the transmission shifts so much smoother! It is completely different feel.
8. I love it when you do something to your TL and are immediately satisfied!
9. There
Good luck!
1. What are the trq spec for both drain and fill bolts? Or just make it tight and snug?
2. I have everything to do the ATF change expect the o-ring replacements? Are they necessary or can I just reuse the old ones?
3. Does the 2008 TL need a filter change? NO, IT IS AN INTERNAL FILTER!
I just did my first 2 transmission's drain and fill. My car is a 2008 Acura TL - Type S with 61,000 miles. A couple of things of note:
1. The fill bolt labeled ATF is very hard to get off (Acura had to get it off for me). I did not have a breaker bar or 6" or 10" extensions. The bolt does "pop" every time I loosen it!
2. I used Rhino-Ramps and and just drove on up and set the E-brake!
3. I loosened the drain-plug with a 3/8" extension and it took a little man strength, okay a rubber mallet!
4. I was able to drain out 4 quarts the first drain and fill, and a little over 4 quarts on the 2nd.
5. The magnetic plug looked pretty rough the 1st time, completely clean the 2nd time after 200 miles.
6. I used Redline D4 ATF, ordered from Outdoorpros for $116 for 12 quarts.
7. After the 1st drain and fill the transmission shifts so much smoother! It is completely different feel.
8. I love it when you do something to your TL and are immediately satisfied!
9. There
Good luck!
10-13-2012, 08:53 PM
#177
10-14-2012, 01:12 AM
#179
Safety Car
I just got done doing my 5th, and last, drain and fill. I went ahead and did the 3rd and 4th pressure switches and the trans filter as well. Hopefully my trans will last for many more years. 
03-18-2013, 10:24 AM
#182
Many many thanks to the AZine community for the awesome information and posts on this topic. I changed my trans fluid last week, and it went pretty smooth.
Observations:
1) It REALLY is as easy or easier than changing the oil. I was intimidated at first because I had not done this before, but the process was pretty smooth.
2) The biggest pain in the butt about the whole process was removing and putting back those little plastic clips that hold the plastic undercarriage shield to the car. They don't come off very easily, and are prone to breaking. It would be a good idea to have some spares on hand.
3) My car is an '06 with 91,800 miles. This was the first time that the maintenance minder said it was time to change the trans fluid. While my fluid was a little black and there were SOME metal shavings on the drain plug magnet, things weren't too bad.
4) Overall, there was no noticeable difference in shift smoothness, EXCEPT it seemed slightly more smooth between 2nd and 3rd gears.
Tips:
1) I don't have a garage or much storage space so I do not have jack stands. So I just drove my TL up onto the ramps I use for oil changes, and this seemed to work just fine. I was able to drain over 3 quarts out each time. I was worried because a number of posts really emphasize raising the whole car up on 4 jack stands and keeping it level. But things seemed to work just fine on ramps.
2) Filling through the dipstick hole is MUCH easier. (thanks to earlier posts about using clear 3/8" tubing from Lowe's.) I used a clean funnel that you can get from Wal Mart or Autozone, along with 3/8" tubing from Lowe's. This was easy, clean, and fast. I REALLY recommend it.
Observations:
1) It REALLY is as easy or easier than changing the oil. I was intimidated at first because I had not done this before, but the process was pretty smooth.
2) The biggest pain in the butt about the whole process was removing and putting back those little plastic clips that hold the plastic undercarriage shield to the car. They don't come off very easily, and are prone to breaking. It would be a good idea to have some spares on hand.
3) My car is an '06 with 91,800 miles. This was the first time that the maintenance minder said it was time to change the trans fluid. While my fluid was a little black and there were SOME metal shavings on the drain plug magnet, things weren't too bad.
4) Overall, there was no noticeable difference in shift smoothness, EXCEPT it seemed slightly more smooth between 2nd and 3rd gears.
Tips:
1) I don't have a garage or much storage space so I do not have jack stands. So I just drove my TL up onto the ramps I use for oil changes, and this seemed to work just fine. I was able to drain over 3 quarts out each time. I was worried because a number of posts really emphasize raising the whole car up on 4 jack stands and keeping it level. But things seemed to work just fine on ramps.
2) Filling through the dipstick hole is MUCH easier. (thanks to earlier posts about using clear 3/8" tubing from Lowe's.) I used a clean funnel that you can get from Wal Mart or Autozone, along with 3/8" tubing from Lowe's. This was easy, clean, and fast. I REALLY recommend it.
How does the 3/8 tube hold in place? I see how it is attached to funnel but what makes it snug and not leak.
03-21-2013, 05:27 AM
#184
HE>i
iTrader: (1)
probably fits inside the transmission dipstick tube. I have only used a funnel and filled the ATF through the ATF bolt location.
Just pick up some 3/8" tubing and see if it fits in the tube...
Just pick up some 3/8" tubing and see if it fits in the tube...
03-21-2013, 01:49 PM
#185
takin care of Business in
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I used to use that filler...you just put it inside the bolt opening and kinda leave it there....its "gets stuck" there for a lack of a better term....
I now use the funnel filler and love it...
I now use the funnel filler and love it...
03-22-2013, 03:04 AM
#186
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03-23-2013, 12:38 AM
#188
Thanks for the link. I think I am gong to just fill using the dip stick. The fuse box seems like extra work for no reason. Plus I remember it being connected to the strut bar when I did the spark plugs.
06-18-2013, 11:59 AM
#189
Thank you for posting this. I went out and bought the exact funnel you have and the tubing. It was so easy and took minutes for all three quarts to drain through.
For those that have asked the 3/8 inch tube from lowe's fits directly on the inside of the dipstick tube. I would just go by Lowe's buy it and try it out.
Its so much easier than getting the fill bolt out!
For those that have asked the 3/8 inch tube from lowe's fits directly on the inside of the dipstick tube. I would just go by Lowe's buy it and try it out.
Its so much easier than getting the fill bolt out!
Many many thanks to the AZine community for the awesome information and posts on this topic. I changed my trans fluid last week, and it went pretty smooth.
Observations:
1) It REALLY is as easy or easier than changing the oil. I was intimidated at first because I had not done this before, but the process was pretty smooth.
2) The biggest pain in the butt about the whole process was removing and putting back those little plastic clips that hold the plastic undercarriage shield to the car. They don't come off very easily, and are prone to breaking. It would be a good idea to have some spares on hand.
3) My car is an '06 with 91,800 miles. This was the first time that the maintenance minder said it was time to change the trans fluid. While my fluid was a little black and there were SOME metal shavings on the drain plug magnet, things weren't too bad.
4) Overall, there was no noticeable difference in shift smoothness, EXCEPT it seemed slightly more smooth between 2nd and 3rd gears.
Tips:
1) I don't have a garage or much storage space so I do not have jack stands. So I just drove my TL up onto the ramps I use for oil changes, and this seemed to work just fine. I was able to drain over 3 quarts out each time. I was worried because a number of posts really emphasize raising the whole car up on 4 jack stands and keeping it level. But things seemed to work just fine on ramps.
2) Filling through the dipstick hole is MUCH easier. (thanks to earlier posts about using clear 3/8" tubing from Lowe's.) I used a clean funnel that you can get from Wal Mart or Autozone, along with 3/8" tubing from Lowe's. This was easy, clean, and fast. I REALLY recommend it.
Observations:
1) It REALLY is as easy or easier than changing the oil. I was intimidated at first because I had not done this before, but the process was pretty smooth.
2) The biggest pain in the butt about the whole process was removing and putting back those little plastic clips that hold the plastic undercarriage shield to the car. They don't come off very easily, and are prone to breaking. It would be a good idea to have some spares on hand.
3) My car is an '06 with 91,800 miles. This was the first time that the maintenance minder said it was time to change the trans fluid. While my fluid was a little black and there were SOME metal shavings on the drain plug magnet, things weren't too bad.
4) Overall, there was no noticeable difference in shift smoothness, EXCEPT it seemed slightly more smooth between 2nd and 3rd gears.
Tips:
1) I don't have a garage or much storage space so I do not have jack stands. So I just drove my TL up onto the ramps I use for oil changes, and this seemed to work just fine. I was able to drain over 3 quarts out each time. I was worried because a number of posts really emphasize raising the whole car up on 4 jack stands and keeping it level. But things seemed to work just fine on ramps.
2) Filling through the dipstick hole is MUCH easier. (thanks to earlier posts about using clear 3/8" tubing from Lowe's.) I used a clean funnel that you can get from Wal Mart or Autozone, along with 3/8" tubing from Lowe's. This was easy, clean, and fast. I REALLY recommend it.
06-19-2013, 01:42 AM
#191
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I remember my first transmission..
Last edited by Majofo; 06-19-2013 at 01:49 AM.
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06-19-2013, 01:49 AM
#192
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
06-19-2013, 02:01 AM
#194
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I have actual work to finish on.. I'm just here to take a break. Besides.. it's not difficult to figure out the scam, the TL is posted for sale in every major city on CL and they are using multiple names and photobucket accounts as well as ebay accts. It's more than one TL they have used for this scam as well. I think I actually found who the scammer might be, but not enough hooks or selfies in front of the mirror to make a reveal. 
Feel free to solve that one.
Feel free to solve that one.
06-19-2013, 08:45 AM
#195
Intermediate
Seems like a there's always an issue with loosening the bolts. Would there be an issue with spraying the bolts with PB Blaster a week ahead? Just worried if issues might arise if any of it leaks inside.
06-19-2013, 09:01 AM
#196
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
1/2" breaker bar, extension, and socket. it'll crack that factory seal right away.
06-19-2013, 12:14 PM
#197
takin care of Business in
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Use a proper extension and breaker bar and do the task....also just as an insurance, make sure you break the filler bolt loose before you drain the fluid out...
06-19-2013, 10:31 PM
#199
Help!! Broke a bolt
Hey guys need some advice...
I broke the bolt towards the front of the car (damn saltly NJ roads) that holds the plastic covering the transmission. It broke halfway down the shaft. I'm afraid to drill out because if my drill bit "walks" I could be eating away at the aluminum threaded frame.
Any suggestions?
Thinking of bringing it to a garage so they can do it. But, I hate to spend the money!
I broke the bolt towards the front of the car (damn saltly NJ roads) that holds the plastic covering the transmission. It broke halfway down the shaft. I'm afraid to drill out because if my drill bit "walks" I could be eating away at the aluminum threaded frame.
Any suggestions?
Thinking of bringing it to a garage so they can do it. But, I hate to spend the money!
06-20-2013, 07:24 AM
#200
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^what bolt did you break? pics would be helpful, as we can't just read your mind.