Ron A

Nobody has asked for these yet, but it won't be long before someone will need this info as the cars get older and the brake pads get thinner. So I am posting the scans now so they will be ready when needed, and also will reference this thread in the 3G Garage.

dezzzmond

Great Info. Thanks. I'll have to use this in the future. I did a visual inspection of my Brembo pads 9 months after I got my car and the pads were wearing out fast. I found the TS 04-19 and i got them replaced.

VelfarreClubber

Good job Ron, i was just thinking when i need to replace my pads. generally how many miles do the AT last?

Ron A

I don't remember anyone saying they had to replace the pads due to wear, so we don't have much info yet, but my experience says front pads for AT should last about 40,000 miles. Of course, this depends on how you drive. A NYC cab driver will get significantly less miles, and a freeway commuter might get more.

neuronbob

I'm going in for an alignment tomorrow. I'll ask for a quick brake inspection on my 5AT with 31.5k miles and reply that query. So far, no brake issues.

Thanks for the post, Ron!

deandorsey

as soon as i do a replacement -which i would assume be close w 35k- ill post up a step by step w/ pics

cM3go

They replaced my brembo pads at about 16K because I complained about squeaking, free brake job

Crusader_RENAMED

Does anyone know what the "special tools" that are listed for the 6 spd are? Are they really necessary? And I assume Acura charges an arm and a leg for them, so where can I get them for less?

Ron A

Check out this thread for more info.

TBone2004

Do these brakes / Pads have the wear indicator - that squeals when they are low? My old, old car from HS had I think indicators on the pad that when low - would barely touch the disc and squeal when they got low - sound would stop when you pressed on the brakes full. Do pads still come that way?

Crunchy

I have an Acura 05 MT. I have been complaining to my dealer about squeaking brakes. The first time they said that my rotor was warped and so they grinded it down. But as soon as I drove away it was still making squeaking noise.

For some reason it happens most when I am backing up with light pressure on the brakes. Of course the dealer took the car for a drive and it didn't do anything.

Has anyone else been having this problem, and what do you suggest? Thanks

csmeance

hey Ron, where did you get this book from? This would be very handy to have. Thanks for the help, and these threads are awesome.

Lore

This is the Acura TL Service Manual, available from Helm.

TheNip73

I am at 56, xxx miles and still using my original brakes. I think my rotors are a little warped, but nothing to serious or annoying.

j.chino

Thanks for the info...do you know how I can get the compressor tool, I tried looking on Brembo's website but it doesn't have any info.

mn2trance

You don't really need it. Use a C-clamp (if you have one) or a flathead screwdriver to push back the pistons.

j.chino

goot it thanks! i'll try it this weekend, it's in service now for a sensor that went out,

Aznpersuasion

where do we order the book for DIY instructions?
~Jason

swoodle

Ron great post! Could you maybe scan the 3rdG manual for Caliper Replacement?

Silver Bullet

What is the "specified torque" for the rear brake pad replacement?

thanglesungei

Hello,

Thanks for the great info. Could somebody please advise whether the engine should turned on or off while doing the brake fluid bleed.

Thank you,

PPLAPW

^ It should be off...

Make sure while bleeding, the brake fluid reservoir is topped of, by that I mean at the FULL line indicator...

Ron A

A belated reply, but finally answered. It's in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/religion-politics-18/world-opinion-132940/

Ron A

Scans added for brake hose and line inspection and brake hose replacement.

Black_dc2

You should throw in rotor replacement on the 6mt in there as well. I am about to put on my rotora's and hawk pads, but am terrified that my wheels won't fit anymore. I currently only have say 2mm of distance between the rim and caliper.

zboz13

Can someone help me out here...

I replaced my rear rotors and pads on my 2005 TL and I have a few issues...

When trying to remove the two screws that hold the rotors on, I ended up stripping them out and had to drill them out. Are these really needed? I have never seen this before and in my opinion it seems to be over-kill!

Secondly, after putting everything back together I now realize that the parking brake doesn't work. I am not really sure what is going on there as I didn't touch anything with the parking brake. Am I missing something here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

erick3

wow...where to even begin
I've got 60k+ and I still haven't had to replace my pads...uh oh? ALTHOUGH at one point they were all replaced under warranty...something about warping and squeaking?

Bearcat94

Retaining Screws are not needed. From what I've read they are just to hold rotor on during assembly, before the hub/wheel are on.

Look at these DIY's from another thread. Keep in mind the DIY is froma 2G, but is nearly identical to 3G non-Brembo. Might help.

Jesstzn

What diameter are the rotors on a 06 TL auto trans . I am assuming 11.1" but when looking on a few sites it also shows 11.8 listed for the A/T.

Jesstzn

Ok got the answer .. ty

AtariPunk

OK - So I just replaced all rotors and pads on my 07 Type-S. Since I used this thread and the Helms manual to do it, I thought I'd share some lessons learned to help others.

I purchased Rotora slotted rotors and RB ET300 pads from Heel Toe. My only complaint is that the front left rotor did not have the correct holes for the retaining screws. Yes, I know that you don't /have/ to have them, but I prefer them, since I'll be getting my winter tires on in a couple of weeks. Discount Tire guys aren't brake guys, and I don't need my rotor to get jacked when they take the wheel off. Hopefully it will stick to the hub by then. I also installed SS brake lines from RB.

At any rate, for everyone asking about getting the retaining screws out, there's a device called an impact driver. This is not an air tool, but a screwdriver that you hit with a mallet to twist. It will take those screws out without stripping them. It is one of the greatest tools on earth. I'm a big fan.

When jacking up the front, place the jack in the center so you can put jack stands on the sides. In the back, you won’t be so lucky. The rear center jack point is too high for a regular floor jack (mine goes 14”). You’ll need to get pretty creative, get a bigger jack, or get two jacks. I had two jacks (one on each side) with a jack stand at the rear center jack point for a small amount of safety. I wasn’t impressed that the jack point was so far from the ground.

The rotor removal is under suspension in the Helms manual, not in the brake section. Go figure. I will try to scan those pages and follow with another post.

The caliper bolts on the front were by-far the hardest to remove. I found the easiest way was to spray penetrating liquid on, wait 5 minutes, spray again, wait 5 minutes, then turn them. If I remember correctly, I was cleaning shims and pad springs with brake cleaner while waiting the first 5, then lubing up the shims the second 5.

On both sides for the rear drum brakes, turning the adjustment ratchet down/outside/towards you will loosen the shoes. Do this to take the rotor/drum off. After putting the new one on, I followed the instructions in the manual for 8 clicks back from all the way tight and I think the parking brake is perfect.

By the way, the shoes for the parking brake are very thin, but they look barely used. I have only pulled my E-brake in a turn once, so these were not worn for me. If you use your E-brake for parking only, these should last a while. If you like to pull your E-brake in turns, you might want to look into replacing the shoes.

If changing out the brake lines, I recommend following this order for the rears: remove brake line bracket, remove banjo bolt from caliper, remove caliper. If you don’t remove the banjo bolt before removing the caliper from its bracket, you won’t have any leverage on the bolt. Also, the retaining clip for the lines can be reused, contrary to what the manual says. I was careful removing mine. I found that a hook (like a pick) in conjunction with a set of small needle-nose pliers really does the trick. If you know how to pop a beer bottle cap off with a lighter, then use the same principle with hook and pliers to pry the retaining clip out (or read about fulcrums and leverage). I used my mallet and the side of the pliers to gently push it back into place.
Since I was changing my lines I opted to remove quite a bit of fluid from the system. With this done, I was able to push all the caliper pistons in with my fingers. I never even used my C-clamp, much less some super-fancy tool. Speaking of fancy tools, you absolutely must by a punch. I bought a Stanley kit at Wal-Mart for less than $10. This is essential for the fronts. I also have a rubber mallet, which I used more than once. Shorter punches might be better for this application.

When bleeding the brakes, leave the front wheels off. I put everything back together, then realized I couldn’t reach the two bleed-valves on each front caliper. You cannot simply turn the wheel to reach the inside bleeders, either. Taking the wheels off is by far the best method. On the rears, you can just lie down under the back and it’s easily accessible. Since this is true, you might DO THE BACK BRAKES FIRST, so that you can leave the front wheels off to finish the job (instead of removing them twice, like I did).
Get longer tubing than just 2’ for bleeding the brake system. 3’-4’ would be best. They sell clear ¼” tubing at Lowes. It can fit into the hole of a restaurant kids’ cup, too. I spilled my cup on the very last wheel (driver’s left). Wish I had that kids’ cup top.

I used my own method for bleeding the brakes. I don’t like the manual’s method. I recommend pumping the brakes with the bleeding valve open to force all the air out. I got 2 pints of Motul with my SS lines and used one and a half. I pushed a lot of fluid through the system.

Finally, get yourself some good working lights. It’s hard to see in those wheel wells, especially in a garage. I had a single hanging light and it wasn’t enough for me. I bought a head lamp – you know, one of those lights you strap around your head. I think it’s pretty good. I don’t recommend wearing it to the club or anything, though. I also got a 150W clamping lamp that provides a little heat (it snowed this weekend in CO).

In hindsight, I wish I would have taken pictures to share with the forum, but I didn’t expect to have much to share. It is a standard brake job, but I think I wasted 2+ hours on silly stuff, like taking wheels off again, jacking the car in various ways, and having to re-do a wheel because I forgot to lube the shims.

First day on the brakes after a conservative bedding and I am quite happy. I don’t know if it’s the new parts, the SS brake lines, or the bleeding, but I finally have the pedal feel I want. Like my old 05 TL 6MT. This Type-S never had a good pedal feel and I’m wondering if it was just a good bleeding or the SS brake lines that made the difference. Whatever the case, the setup I have is great. The bite of the brakes is impressive. Even my 7 year old son commented on the improved stopping power from only slight application of the brake pedal this morning. I have not stepped on them (waiting for 200 miles) but would be willing to state that these brakes stop better under partial power better than my Acura brakes under full power. For anyone hating their factory setup, you absolutely /must/ upgrade. I’m only hoping they last longer than 13K, like my last two sets of Acura front pads. So far they are quiet, though I heard a squeak this morning, but it was temporary and I’m sure part of them settling in. Overall they are much quieter than the stock setup. I cleaned my wheels during the brake job and I’ll see how much they dust. I’m hoping () that the pedal feel and the bite stick around for a while.

AtariPunk

Quick follow-up...

The parking brake adjustment ratchet is at the very bottom center of the hub. So turn the drum until the access hole is at the very bottom.

JetJaguar

Anyone here ever actually replace a Brembo caliper piston boot? Put a hole in one of mine while changing the pads and need to replace it.

Is it a difficult process without special tools or is it just like any other boot replacement?

(Please don't ask how I put a hole in it. It's embarrassing.)

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

what is amusing that I noticed for the 6mt is that the tool required picture for Brembo Brake Caliper Piston Compressor looks different than what is actually used in the diagram (top left in 19-16)... hmmm... noticed this because looking for something easy to use to do this compression.. I have done it before but I like finding tools to make my life easier

Bearcat94

No special tool required to compress the caliper pistons. Just use the old brake pad and lever a stout screwdriver against it. The pad will push the pistons in evenly and without you having to make direct contact.

As an alternative, you can use a block of wood instead of the pad and some have used c-clamps with a peice of wood.

thassett

So I just completed my first front pad and rotor change yesterday, and learned a couple lessons: (some painful, some enjoyable)

1) I went with the Duralast Cmax Gold pads, and new Duralast front rotors. While the pads seem to be awesome, the rotors are not EXACTLY the same size as the originals. The new Duralast rotors seem to be a little thinner, with more space in between the two discs. I hindsight, I feel like I should have left the rotors alone.

2) My 2006 AT TL has 94,000 miles on it, and these are the original rotors and pads. The pads still had probably 35% of the material left on them. I probably could have waited another 20,000 miles if I wanted. But since the brake fluid had never been bled, it was probably good for me to do this.

3) Getting those 2 rotor screws off is a HUGE pain. On the driver's side, I had to beat the hell out of them with an impact wrench, to the point of actually twisting the bits slightly. On the passenger's side, the impact wrench bits broke off in the screw! This led to a nightmare of hours of drilling into that hard metal. With one of the screws, my neighbor had to come over with his dremel to help. Again, I wish I just left the rotors alone. On the passenger's side, since I drilled the screws, I was not able to use new screws to secure the rotor to the hub. While the lug nuts do most of this, the new rotor had a little bit of "play" while I was putting the caliper back on and bleeding the brakes.

4) In my local Autozone and Advance Auto, there were a couple options of brands of "Synthetic DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid". But I noticed that Prestone had a wet boiling point of like 284 degrees, but the Valvoline brand I bought had a boiling point of 311 degrees, so I went with that.

tonester

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the rotors on my 06 TL today and prior to doing that I've been reading up on different threads here about removing the pesky rotor screws. My removal process went pretty smooth today without running into any problems with stripped screws.

I sprayed the screws with good amount of PB Blaster and waited about 20 minutes. I then tapped the head of each screw lightly with a ballpin hammer to loosen any rust left. To remove the screws, I used a #3 phillips head bit and attached it my 1/2" breaker bar using a couple of adapter. All 4 screws on both rotors broke loose with the first try. I broke it loose with a quick but steady turn. I don't recommend doing it slowly because the bit might slip out of the head and start stripping it. To prevent the rotor from spinning while I work the breaker bar, I screw 2 of the lug nuts back onto the bolt and use the handle of my floor jack as leverage to hold the rotor in place.

I hope this method will help someone else here with these rotor screws.

mrxsammyx

thats a really good idea tonester.. im gonna give that a try really soon.

J35A8

Great info!!!

94eg!

lol the breaker bar seems like overkill. Even with a 1/4" ratchet you are able to apply enough torque to strip one of those screws if it's REALLY stuck. Besides, if you need more torque, it's okay to slip a pipe over the 1/4" ratchet. It can take it.

But still, that type of setup is the only way to go. I just use a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" socket and a large philips bit. works almost every time. I only had one screw I couldn't get out and it was a 100k mile Honda Pilot from Ohio. Crazy flakey rust everywhere.