Best oil for TL
09-11-2011, 07:49 PM
#41
Any one hear of someone running royal purple oil and filter all the time? And it work ok? I always think royal purple oil in Proformance cara only. Or it mobile 1 synthetic and a royal purple filter kust as good?
09-11-2011, 09:24 PM
#42
Racer
Dude, don't worry about it. Your tranny will crap out long before your engine will if you do reasonable oil and filter changes with any decent oil and filter...
09-11-2011, 09:24 PM
#43
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Their "extended performance" line is a true synthetic. Their other stuff is not, yet they advertise it as such. Personally, I won't support them based on their deceptive marketing tactics. I'd rather support Redline and Amsoil.
09-11-2011, 11:00 PM
#45
Ok ill go with royal purple oil then. And my tranny better last lol. I am doing redline oil change and switches. And going to keep up with it so I hope to get 150k on it. ( fingers are crossed) I am nice to my cars thou and don't drive them like raped apes.
09-11-2011, 11:22 PM
#46
Team Owner
How did you decide on Royal Purple??? That's the last thing I would go with in both the engine or trans.
09-11-2011, 11:55 PM
#47
What you recommend?
What do you recommend then? I only ever ran royal purple and mobile. What do you recommend? And the filter has the best reviews were ever I look.
09-12-2011, 12:01 AM
#50
Instructor
I recently had my 08 tl-s' oil changed with Mobil 1 at a shop. I immediately noticed the car lost its ability to rapidly accelerate and a significant torque decrease. Is this normal? Did the mechanic screw up somehow?
Last edited by gwhizkid; 09-12-2011 at 12:03 AM. Reason: Grammar
09-12-2011, 12:28 AM
#51
Oil
On another hand how many miles are on your car? I highly doubt this would relate to you because tl's are fairly new cars. But if decided to run a synthetic oil in a beat car with bad rings and valve seals the oil could get in your combustion camber and foul your plugs and in general cause power loose. Synthetic oil has away of finding ways into places it shouldn't be in beat cars. Plus if this were happening you would see serious smoke out the exhaust. Like I said this isn't your case and the problem is not the oil.
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gwhizkid (09-12-2011)
09-12-2011, 10:34 AM
#52
Well went with royal purple oil and filter. Only difference I see is that it helps with start ups. Oil pressure is almost instant. The oil light goes out a second or so quicker. Other then that no difference. I thought about amsoil but no one cares it around my area so I ended up with royal.
09-12-2011, 11:39 AM
#53
Burning Brakes
Well went with royal purple oil and filter. Only difference I see is that it helps with start ups. Oil pressure is almost instant. The oil light goes out a second or so quicker. Other then that no difference. I thought about amsoil but no one cares it around my area so I ended up with royal.
09-12-2011, 12:06 PM
#56
What do you mean
What do uou mean I didn't take the advice? I wanted go do a oil change today and no one said royal was bad so I ran it. If amsoil is seriously recommended more then I will go with it next time. I just want what's best for my car.
Also now that I drove the car a few the light does take a second long to go out this a bad sign? I went with the royal filter as well which seems to get the beat rating on this site.
Also now that I drove the car a few the light does take a second long to go out this a bad sign? I went with the royal filter as well which seems to get the beat rating on this site.
09-12-2011, 12:14 PM
#59
AZ Community Team
Castro Syn 5W-20, OEM Filter in our 2003 Pilot and 2005 TL
09-12-2011, 12:24 PM
#61
09-12-2011, 12:32 PM
#63
If you driver conservatively and enjoy good mileage all the time, get Mobil-1 0w20. You will save money.
If your not that concerned with fuel economy, but still drive normal-to-conservative, get Mobil-1 5w20
If you want a little extra protection for more spirited driving, use Mobil-1 0w30 (I'm using it now and lost 1mpg over 5w20)
If you drive hard all the time, then Mobil-1 or Redline 5w30.
If you race, you should be doing oil-pressure & temp testing to determine what weight of oil works best for the conditions.
0w oils will help a lot more in the winter months as well as these oils flow better and start lubricating sooner at startup.
BTW: Autozone has that $10-off coupon for the 5qt jugs of M1 again. You can take it to Walmart and have the customer service manager do an "ad-match" on it (just ask at the service desk). That's how you get 5qts of M1 for $14. Lots of the super walmarts are carrying the 0w20 & 0w30 in the 5qt jugs now...
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/lan...0829_sz_slot_2
If your not that concerned with fuel economy, but still drive normal-to-conservative, get Mobil-1 5w20
If you want a little extra protection for more spirited driving, use Mobil-1 0w30 (I'm using it now and lost 1mpg over 5w20)
If you drive hard all the time, then Mobil-1 or Redline 5w30.
If you race, you should be doing oil-pressure & temp testing to determine what weight of oil works best for the conditions.
0w oils will help a lot more in the winter months as well as these oils flow better and start lubricating sooner at startup.
BTW: Autozone has that $10-off coupon for the 5qt jugs of M1 again. You can take it to Walmart and have the customer service manager do an "ad-match" on it (just ask at the service desk). That's how you get 5qts of M1 for $14. Lots of the super walmarts are carrying the 0w20 & 0w30 in the 5qt jugs now...
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/lan...0829_sz_slot_2
It's not so much the dry start, it's the warm up cycle. When cold you have more piston to cylinder clearance and some of the ep oil additives are not active until the oil hits a minimum temp. It's more the fact that all clearances are loose than anything else.
I use Redline since it's an ester and very polar to eliminate dry starts even though an actual dry start is pretty much impossible. Oil sticks to cylinders and pistons, cam lobes usually are bathed in a little bucket of oil so lube is instant. Rod and main bearings have oil left in them and do not require instant pressure to get that hydrodynamic wedge to keep things separate. Oil pumps are positive displacement pumps so pressure and flow are instant.
You're literally talking miliseconds before you have full lube even on the first start in the morning. Many people have this idea that it takes seconds, even minutes to get lube but in reality it's under 1 second even in the winter with a thick oil.
Mobil One is not "full synthetic" it's a grpIII dino oil.
Again, flow and pressure are pretty much instant as long as you use the correct oil for the ambient temp and there's a ton of room for error. A 0w drastically lowers HTHS and hot protection. I would run Redline 5w-20 over Mobil One 0w-30 any day if I wanted the best protection plus they're about the same viscosity down to freezing. There's way too much emphasis put on cold flow. Think about the old days with grpI dino oils that were super thick during startup with carbureted engines that would usually bring the rpms way up immediately. The multi weights of today, even the thicker ones are far, far superior to the old oils and engine clearances have not changed over the years.
I would not use a 0w oil unless I was running the car in well below 0F temps. It's completely unnecessary for 90% of the US.
A change in fuel economy from a 0w-20 to a 5w-20 is not measurable. The people that have gone from a 5w-20 to a 0w-40 haven't seen a change in mpg. It would take going from a 0w-20 to a straight 60wt to even think about seeing a measurable difference.
A friend of mine just put a straight 60wt in his 350z (long story) and no measurable change in mpg. I don't recommend this but it goes to show that you will never ever see a change between a 0w-20 and 5w-20. They're the same viscosity at operating temp anyway.
Let's not forget, a 10w-40 is good to 0F. 10w-30 is easily good to 0F.
To the OP, a synthetic will not thicken as much when cold, won't thin as much when hot. This is what you want and it does it all with less VIIs.
09-12-2011, 12:40 PM
#64
Senior Moderator
lol Royal Purple. They make a very solid filter but I wouldn't dump their over priced oil in my crank case.
In my research (and I've done a lot of oil research) the oils that come out on top are Red Line 5w30 and Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. I would safely use Redline 5w20 in ours as it's as thick (at operating temp) as any off the shelf 5w30 oil.
Amsoil is also good oil but again over priced especially if you are not going to extend the OCI and it's hard to get (at least for us Canadians we have to order and pick up at warehouse!)
Redline also is difficult to find off the shelf here and have to custom order it.
Pennzoil wins for me! on sale it's cheap and its readily available at Canadian Tire and Walmart.
In my research (and I've done a lot of oil research) the oils that come out on top are Red Line 5w30 and Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. I would safely use Redline 5w20 in ours as it's as thick (at operating temp) as any off the shelf 5w30 oil.
Amsoil is also good oil but again over priced especially if you are not going to extend the OCI and it's hard to get (at least for us Canadians we have to order and pick up at warehouse!)
Redline also is difficult to find off the shelf here and have to custom order it.
Pennzoil wins for me! on sale it's cheap and its readily available at Canadian Tire and Walmart.
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triax37 (01-15-2012)
09-12-2011, 03:20 PM
#65
Racer
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
An another way to search is click on the word "Search" once you're inside the 3G TL forum. It's near the middle and just below where it says "Welcome <Username>" on the upper right-hand side of the page.
...just trying to make your experience enjoyable on here. They really do have some very knowledgeable people! Just be careful not to be misled by wrong information. As they say (whoever "they" are) opinions are like assholes, everyone's got one.
09-12-2011, 04:06 PM
#66
Burning Brakes
And like I said I tried it,The shit sucks I still have 50% oil life left but I think I'm going to drain it and go Redline. Which brings up a question that If I drain it at 50% can I reset the oil life light or do you have to wait till it tells you its time for an oil change..?
09-12-2011, 08:26 PM
#68
Instructor
And like I said I tried it,The shit sucks I still have 50% oil life left but I think I'm going to drain it and go Redline. Which brings up a question that If I drain it at 50% can I reset the oil life light or do you have to wait till it tells you its time for an oil change..?
09-12-2011, 08:50 PM
#69
Burning Brakes
Like I said I just don't like the fact the oil lights stays on a sec longer then all the other lights at start up and that's only happened since I switched to RP
09-12-2011, 09:18 PM
#70
Racer
IMO, a lot of folks over think service. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Use the correct viscosity (check the cap), change the oil according to the MID and use a quality product. That's it.
I recommend Honda/Acura fluids and service. Obviously, it isn't required. However, no one is going to "screw up" by using OEM products at the correct interval.
Honda/Acura oils are synthetic blends and synthetics. They are produced by ConocoPhillips under contract with AHMC.
0w20 blend is primarily (highly) synthetic stock, the percentage of conventional was used to reduce expense (pennies per quart).
5w20 blend is primarily conventional, although there is a high enough percentage of synthetic stock to make a difference.
5w30 RDX is a full synthetic laced with PAO to enhance heat tolerance in the turbocharged application.
Full synthetics are available in both 0w20 and 5w20. They do offer superior wear protection, better cold starts and improved tolerance to breakdown (varnish and sludge).
Again, the key is to service the vehicle. Honda products will live a long, happy life with the right TLC.
I recommend Honda/Acura fluids and service. Obviously, it isn't required. However, no one is going to "screw up" by using OEM products at the correct interval.
Honda/Acura oils are synthetic blends and synthetics. They are produced by ConocoPhillips under contract with AHMC.
0w20 blend is primarily (highly) synthetic stock, the percentage of conventional was used to reduce expense (pennies per quart).
5w20 blend is primarily conventional, although there is a high enough percentage of synthetic stock to make a difference.
5w30 RDX is a full synthetic laced with PAO to enhance heat tolerance in the turbocharged application.
Full synthetics are available in both 0w20 and 5w20. They do offer superior wear protection, better cold starts and improved tolerance to breakdown (varnish and sludge).
Again, the key is to service the vehicle. Honda products will live a long, happy life with the right TLC.
09-12-2011, 09:32 PM
#71
KBPftmfw
I use Motorcraft 5W-20 with a Bosch 3323 oil filter. If this oil was good enough for my old 5.0, it is good enough for the 3.5.
I can't believe people agonize over decisions like this.
I can't believe people agonize over decisions like this.
09-12-2011, 10:04 PM
#73
Racer
I would point out that basing your current choice on your past requirements isn't a good idea. Always use the correct product for each application. What would you have done if your old ride was a Ford F-450 diesel??
09-12-2011, 10:08 PM
#74
Team Owner
Of course any modern oil will work fine. The title of the thread is "best oil for TL". I'm assuming "best" is lowest wear and probably something that keeps the engine the cleanest. An ester oil with lots of good additives will do both of these the best. I'm not saying the TL won't go 300,000 miles on a no name 5w-20 but it will be in better shape by the time it gets there with a great oil.
09-12-2011, 10:16 PM
#75
Senior Moderator
Ok, i will. It is a GIANT waste of time and money. Dont get all caught up on the 3k money making scheme that so many have you believe is needed! Its NOT. My car idles ALL day for work. It would be much harder for the motor and me to shut it off as opposed to leaving it run. My driving is on the severe side and i still do 15k intervals.
09-13-2011, 07:48 AM
#76
Racer
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I have been using Mobil 1 full synthetic, but after reading many threads, I believe I will be investing in some Redline oil and tranny fluid soon. Just completed the pressure switches, now to do a 3x3 again. I did one about 25-30k ago, but with Z1 atf. (boo i know, i have read)
09-13-2011, 11:26 AM
#77
Ok quick update. After more reading my car will be getting a RP filter and amsoil 5w-20 tomorrow. Yes thats right I ran RP for a whole 18miles. Just heard alot of bad stuff about RP.
09-13-2011, 12:56 PM
#79
09-13-2011, 02:04 PM
#80
Team Owner
If you put it in already, just run it until the next change. I don't like it but it's not going to destroy your engine. Run it and then swap it with Redline 5w-30 the next time you change.