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Another no crank/start-up

 
Old 10-11-2018, 08:09 PM
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Angry Another no crank/start-up

Started experiencing the symptom yesterday, after having just parked the car and realized I left the wallet at home (doh). Went to start the car and it would not turn over. Wouldn't even attempt to start. There is no clicking sounds as to indicate a weak or lose battery terminals, the car simply doesn't do anything when I try and turn it over. I even tried with a rolling start, still nothing. I don't know if I hear a single click or not, but definitely not more than one if there is any....

Eventually I would get the car to start after 10+ tries and took it home and parked it....Then this morning, same thing. But once again, after multiple tries it fires up as normal, and this continued throughout my day up, and up until just a few minutes ago.

I did a quick google search and came across a thread that indicates it could be the starter going bad, but thats only because the thread references a "single-click".

Before I order a new starter, I thought I'd turn to the folks on here and see if you guys have any suggestions on how to narrow down the culprit?
I will be testing the battery tom, to ensure the terminals are debris free and are tight and secure, as well as the battery is holding a charge....

Besides that, is there anything else I can do?

I appreciate the help!
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:28 PM
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I had an ignition switch go bad that would prevent any cranking and had these exact symptoms. I checked that the starter relay worked and applying 12v to the starter I confirmed the starter was good. It would require turning the key a dozen times before I finally got it to start. The contacts in the ignition switch get fouled to the point of intermittent contact but if you disassemble it and clean it up you may get a little more life out of it. I did just that until eventually I bought a new ignition switch.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by srg818 View Post
I had an ignition switch go bad that would prevent any cranking and had these exact symptoms. I checked that the starter relay worked and applying 12v to the starter I confirmed the starter was good. It would require turning the key a dozen times before I finally got it to start. The contacts in the ignition switch get fouled to the point of intermittent contact but if you disassemble it and clean it up you may get a little more life out of it. I did just that until eventually I bought a new ignition switch.
Did you have any clicking when trying to turn the car over? I'll try and test the starter Tom....

If the ignition switch was going bad, would I experience anything else to do with the ignition switch itself?
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:10 AM
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Does everything else electrical work in the car? Does anything power off when you turn the key?
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackass View Post
Does everything else electrical work in the car? Does anything power off when you turn the key?
Only the navigation screen, which resets, and my dashcam that's plugged into the cigarette lighter.
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:04 AM
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starter
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:14 AM
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This is by far the most annoying thing I've ever experienced with my TL. It's not consistent, but It's happened to me maybe 5 times in 3 years. Random and completely unexpected....
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Old 10-15-2018, 07:38 PM
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before I pull the trigger on a new starter, anyone else want to offer any more advice lol
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Old 10-16-2018, 09:00 AM
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Check your battery cables. My symptoms were; I had power/ dash lights/ etc but as soon as I turned the key to start the car I would lose ALL Power. No click, no nothing. I went out and bought a new ignition switch but that didnt fix it.

The culprit:

A while before that I changed out the power wires going to my battery/starter/fuse box. I believe its called the Big 3 wire upgrade. Basically I used 2ga cable to replace all power wires from battery/starter/alternator. On one of those connections I needed to use a big ass crimp to hold down two wires.
What seemed to have taken place was the crimp started to deteriorate and broke in half within the electrical tape I wrapped around it. So although I was getting some power, enough to power on accessories. It wasnt enough to start the car.
I replaced the crimp and she started right up.
I eventually got rid of the car but, I now have a new OEM ignitition switch.

Check your battery cables from starter/alternator/fuse box.
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:22 PM
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^^^This.

I had my starter go bad about 5 years ago and the car (2004 AT) started acting up again last week. Luckily I have a secondary means of transportation so I didn't look at it again until this morning. I looked at everything beginning at that battery back. Autozone ran a load test for me since my multimeter showed 12.5V. Load test was good. I went to put the battery back in and then noticed that the positive cable headed to the starter was looking a bit corroded; not bad, but enough to where I thought there might be some resistance going to the starter. It doesn't take much voltage drop for the starter to not want to spin. I've learned the hard way that these cars, like my Triumph motorcycles, seem to be quite sensitive to voltage irregularities. I connected the cables back to the battery and then ran a jumper from the starter to the positive clamps. Turned the key and it started right up. So I disassembled the hideous clamps that hold both the cable to the starter and the one to the fuse box and took a wire brush and cleaned them up. Turned the key and it started right away. So I'm pretty sure I found my culprit. It'll be a less expensive fix than I thought it would be, but somewhat of a PITA to do since I'll have to pull the battery and the shelf it sits on to get to the bolt on the starter.
I'm currently looking to replace the positive cables going to the starter and the fuse box. I figured I might as well exchange both. So far my Googling hasn't turned up anything that has two cables coming off the positive post. I really want to get rid of that clamp setup if at all possible.

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Old 11-05-2018, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Triumph07 View Post
^^^This.

I had my starter go bad about 5 years ago and the car (2004 AT) started acting up again last week. Luckily I have a secondary means of transportation so I didn't look at it again until this morning. I looked at everything beginning at that battery back. Autozone ran a load test for me since my multimeter showed 12.5V. Load test was good. I went to put the battery back in and then noticed that the positive cable headed to the starter was looking a bit corroded; not bad, but enough to where I thought there might be some resistance going to the starter. It doesn't take much voltage drop for the starter to not want to spin. I've learned the hard way that these cars, like my Triumph motorcycles, seem to be quite sensitive to voltage irregularities. I connected the cables back to the battery and then ran a jumper from the starter to the positive clamps. Turned the key and it started right up. So I disassembled the hideous clamps that hold both the cable to the starter and the one to the fuse box and took a wire brush and cleaned them up. Turned the key and it started right away. So I'm pretty sure I found my culprit. It'll be a less expensive fix than I thought it would be, but somewhat of a PITA to do since I'll have to pull the battery and the shelf it sits on to get to the bolt on the starter.
I'm currently looking to replace the positive cables going to the starter and the fuse box. I figured I might as well exchange both. So far my Googling hasn't turned up anything that has two cables coming off the positive post. I really want to get rid of that clamp setup if at all possible.
Just get a new OEM one and keep it protected with battery spray
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:09 PM
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I stopped experiencing the symptoms a few days later.....and it hasn't represented itself since
lol its so weird, but its a nice sigh of relief....and I can focus more on actually modding the car to how I want it
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:49 AM
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Be sure to check the + battery cable. At this age it might be corroded internally where you can't see it. I had the same starting issues 2 years ago. That was it.
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti View Post
I stopped experiencing the symptoms a few days later.....and it hasn't represented itself since
lol its so weird, but its a nice sigh of relief....and I can focus more on actually modding the car to how I want it
You are still most likely going to need a starter. The next time you get the no crank try using a long screw driver or pry bar and a hammer to tap on the starter. This will at least get you home so you can replace the starter. I had to do that to mine when my wife took the car and it wouldn't start in the school parking lot.
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by wusty23jd View Post
This is by far the most annoying thing I've ever experienced with my TL. It's not consistent, but It's happened to me maybe 5 times in 3 years. Random and completely unexpected....
Once would be enough for me. I'd check all the cables/connections like everybody says and then replace the starter if everything was good.
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Old 06-08-2019, 08:04 PM
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So symptom has come back and looks like its here to stay. Im currently sitting in a parking lot waiting for a friend to pick me up. Im going to check the connections once before leaving but seems like i will need a new starter.

Has everyone just gone with OEM or are there different brands we trust for this particular part?

Ty in advance
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Old 06-08-2019, 08:08 PM
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Also, is the starter the same for 04-08 models?, Whether auto or manual?
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Old 06-09-2019, 03:39 AM
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$10 multimeter to be sure. Takes 15 seconds to get a voltage reading from the starter. You're spending more time looking at connections than you would to actually diagnose it. Autos/manuals are different starters, i think between years too. I'm lazy to check part numbers between the facelift.
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Old 06-09-2019, 08:25 PM
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Okay so does the vehicle need to be on in order for me to get a voltage reading?
I've never done this before and will likely ask a friend for help.

I found the OEM part number for manual transmission for relatively cheap in Canada, so will definitely pull the trigger if it is the starter
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:23 AM
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So your dash lights don't light up when you turn the ignition switch on? Or do they?

Do your headlights work when this happens?
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Old 06-15-2019, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared View Post
So your dash lights don't light up when you turn the ignition switch on? Or do they?

Do your headlights work when this happens?
All dash lights and headlights work as usual.

I did some checking yesterday as the TL exhibited the no-crank symptom once again. When the symptom occurred, I was quick to go "tap" on the starter and the vehicle started on the 2nd attempt.
Next day I took a meter to the battery and starter solenoid. Battery was showing a reading of approximately 11.9.
From what I understand the battery should never be lower than 12.4?

Also, checked the starter solenoid and it was showing about the same reading as the battery, just slightly lower.
So right now it seems as if a new battery should fix my intermittent issue. The tricky part is getting the vehicle to exhibit the no-crank symptom and then use a meter right after to see if there is voltage reaching the starter....

Lets hear what you guys think?
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Old 06-16-2019, 01:48 AM
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Exhibited the same symptom today. It seems as if the symptom arrises when I try and start the car within 5-10 minutes after having just turned it off.

So I notice that the car hardly ever does this when I'm starting it when its cold. However, if I've been driving it and turn it off, and then go to start it again in a relatively short period of time, it exhibits this symptom (has done this two times since I've been counting). When it did it today, I tapped the starter a few times and it started right up.

HELP before I am left stranded for good lol
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Old 06-16-2019, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti View Post
Okay so does the vehicle need to be on in order for me to get a voltage reading?
I've never done this before and will likely ask a friend for help.

I found the OEM part number for manual transmission for relatively cheap in Canada, so will definitely pull the trigger if it is the starter
You take the multimeter, touch the negative on the battery and then with the red probe touch the starter constant to make sure the battery's voltage match up (12.1v-12.6v). Then you need to take the red probe and touch the starter signal wire next to it and see if the battery voltage shows up at the signal wire when someone turns the key. This will take literally less than 1 minute and nothing to remove except pulling back the rubber grommets.
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Old Yesterday, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by WDPanda View Post
You take the multimeter, touch the negative on the battery and then with the red probe touch the starter constant to make sure the battery's voltage match up (12.1v-12.6v). Then you need to take the red probe and touch the starter signal wire next to it and see if the battery voltage shows up at the signal wire when someone turns the key. This will take literally less than 1 minute and nothing to remove except pulling back the rubber grommets.

Hey WDPanda, I mentioned I tried this method but maybe I did it wrong?
The hardest thing I'm facing right now is getting the car to exhibit the no start symptom when I need it to
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Old Yesterday, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti View Post
All dash lights and headlights work as usual.

I did some checking yesterday as the TL exhibited the no-crank symptom once again. When the symptom occurred, I was quick to go "tap" on the starter and the vehicle started on the 2nd attempt.
Next day I took a meter to the battery and starter solenoid. Battery was showing a reading of approximately 11.9.
From what I understand the battery should never be lower than 12.4?

Also, checked the starter solenoid and it was showing about the same reading as the battery, just slightly lower.
So right now it seems as if a new battery should fix my intermittent issue. The tricky part is getting the vehicle to exhibit the no-crank symptom and then use a meter right after to see if there is voltage reaching the starter....

Lets hear what you guys think?
If you are tapping the starter and it starts you found the problem. I told you in November to replace the starter. Eventually tapping the starter will no longer work and you will have to tow it or replace the starter where you got stranded. REPLACE THE STARTER NOW!
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Old Yesterday, 02:27 PM
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Just wanted to be 100% sure before I spend a couple hundred bucks on a new starter...
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Old Yesterday, 04:15 PM
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https://smile.amazon.com/Denso-280-4...=2008+Acura+TL

Reman'd DENSO here for 215

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+motor,4152

211 Reman'd DENSO on rockauto or a couple other cheaper alternatives too
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Old Yesterday, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi View Post
https://smile.amazon.com/Denso-280-4...=2008+Acura+TL

Reman'd DENSO here for 215

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+motor,4152

211 Reman'd DENSO on rockauto or a couple other cheaper alternatives too
both of these are over 200. I can pick up an OEM for about 10 dollars more....
again the cost isn't the issue, its making 100 percent sure that the starter needs replacing.
I will be using the meter again today and most likely placing the order...
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Old Yesterday, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti View Post
both of these are over 200. I can pick up an OEM for about 10 dollars more....
again the cost isn't the issue, its making 100 percent sure that the starter needs replacing.
I will be using the meter again today and most likely placing the order...
Last time I checked a Reman from Acura was $330 online. I would place that order today. You are already hitting the starter to get the car to start. It probably will only start a few more times.
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Old Yesterday, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nick04tl View Post
Last time I checked a Reman from Acura was $330 online. I would place that order today. You are already hitting the starter to get the car to start. It probably will only start a few more times.
Yeah i guess i dont have a choice at this point.
When I checked online, it states oem one is made by mitsuba...
Haven't heard of the remand one...care to shed any light on that?
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