MistaWet

I'm not sure because I never asked them to do it. I am performing my own 3x3 flush very soon. I am getting my pressure switches changed this weekend first and then do the 3x3 flush.

sleeper22

Just picked up my car after the 1st drain and refill or 1x3. Immediately it is noticeable how it shifts. Shifts are quicker and seem smoother. Going to put about a 1000 miles on it and then flush #2 before heading South to FL.

SatinSilverAV6

iTrader: (2)

It is funny to me how honda calls ATF-Z1 (Acura Precision Crafted) haha! That is a joke!

(Nothing against MistaWet as that is all great info.) Just makin fun of the name!

MistaWet

No offense taken Double S. I didn't even see it in the post. Kind of makes sense because I didn't write it..lol! Now the true author (Sodaluvr) may get offended but I seriously doubt he will.

gogozy

first thanks for "I Hate Car" for the detail on the fluid and switches!! i flush out factory Z1 via cooler line at around 15,000km with D4 and install a external filter in 2010 on y 2009 MDX, only regret i did not did it sooner. recently i heard some good news about ATF-DW1 and now unsure if i shall continue using D4, a good search brought me here!!
Hi chayos00, the pic you show is the same AT as my MDX. honda drop the external ATF filter, and i had confirm with dealer(s), that's why i am installing external filter on the cooler line.
most Honda AT has a external cooler line either connect to the bottom of radiator, or a real external cooler(then from cooler to the radiator), then back to the AT unit. so even if your car does not come with a real external ATF cooler like MDX, you will still have a hose from your AT to the rad. then another one from rad back to your AT, you just need to find the direction of the flow, after that you can install a external filter, and flush out old fluid from cooler line. the ATF filter recommend install filter in front of radiator, when your AT is less than 8k miles, if your unit has more than that mileage, they recommend filter to be install after radiator (right before enter AT unit), they say most wear occur at first 8k, and many of these particles deposit at the cooler line as temperature drops..
hope this helps!

tymeador

Just did the first of my 3 x 3 yesterday with redline d4. It was just as easy as an oil change thanks to you guys. I can tell a difference already as the shifts are less noticeable. I do want to change the switches but I've had no luck on finding pressure switch instructions on an 07 tl. Any help is much appreciated.

lsimmons

Any update on instructions about how to do the pressure switches on a 07-08 TL?

thanks everyone!

GeaugaDog

You guys should also be using some redline racing type F in addition to the D4. Although you can't go wrong with the D4 either, anything is better than the OEM fluid lol

Inaccurate

A-110: DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006) (click here)

Rickyp39

I read in that thread that there is three pressure switches to be changed. However, I didn't see a DIY for it and didn't see any pictures either for the 07-08 TL.

Can anyone tell me where exactly they are located ?

Another question: I am about to do my 1st 3X3 but I ordered regular amsoil ATF synthetic...I didn't get the super shift type f. I plan on running the type f eventually but will I notice a difference with the regular amsoil ATF? And how often are we supposed to do 3X3's? I also plan on changing the pressure switches cuz I have 62k. Should I do the switches before the 3X3 during, or after?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for any input.

Inaccurate

The Type S car is different. The Type S has three switches. The base model has two swtiches.





I hate answering any questions regarding "feel". Too subjective.

To describe the same exact mod to their car ---- One person would say that they feel a huge difference ("OMG, I can't believe I waited this long to do this"). The other person feels nothing what so ever ("hell, what a waste of my time and money").

When I switched from the factory ATF (Z1) to a similar fluid as the regular amsoil ATF, I felt a significant difference. The trans shifted with much less pause between each gear.

Based on my distant memories, I would rate the improvement as follows:

Z1 - - - - - - - - - - - - - regular amsoil ATF - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Type F

That is, the regular amsoil would give you a third or a half of the overall improvements that you would get by going to Type F.

Vague question? Based on who's opinion? Based on having which brand of ATF?

According to the Acura and Honda? You would be better off asking a 5 year old child the same question than to listen to Acura. At least the child would look at you funny and say

As opposed to Acura Honda feeding you a line of PR (Public Relations) BS based on *their* best interest. .

According to Acurazine members? It varies. If you use Amsoil brand, it would easily go 50,000 miles. If you use Redline brand, it would easily go 70,000 miles. These are not hard numbers, but more to imply an overall impression.


Whichever is more convenient for you. From an anal perspective, I would say do the switches first so that any crud that got knocked loose from doing the switches would be flushed out during the fluid refill.


Here is some additional reading for you

Time to change transmission fluid? (click here)
The Optimal Percentage of Racing ATF (click here)
Transmission Fluid Woes (click here)
The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012 (click here)
C-026: DIY Changing ATF (with Pics) (click here)

Rickyp39

[QUOTE=Inaccurate;13328040]The Type S car is different. The Type S has three switches. The base model has two swtiches.




Okay, so even for a 08 base there are only 2 switches? I just wanted to make sure because I read that the 07-08 TLs have RL transmissions and I didn't know if they were the same part numbers.

Could someone please provide the part numbers of anything I would need for replacing the switches? That would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the reply Inaccurate. Lots of helpful information.

How long did you wait to replace the regular Amsoil synthetic to type F? or should I ask when would you recommend it for me if I have 62k right now and just barely changing to synthetic Amsoil ATF?

Inaccurate

No waiting period is required. You can go directly to the Type F if you wish.

Please be aware that Type F is not for everyone. According to Acura and Amsoil, the Type F is an unapproved fluid for our TL. Type F might make your shifts unbearable (comfort wise). You might have scary jerks and clunk sounds periodically from the trans. Please read thru the "Optimal Percentage of Racing ATF" thread to make sure that you are aware of the drawbacks to using Type F.

Watermelon913

Hi, Im a new owner of my 2005 Acura TL with 118k miles on it. I have no clue when the last time the ATF was changed out. I plan out doing a 3x3 over a period of time using D4 fluid and almost replacing my pressure switches. My only concern is with 118k miles on the vehicle is it "safe" to convert from Z1 to Red line D4? Or should I just stick with Honda's Z1? I want to do a 1x3 every month until the 3x3 is completed so im sure that most of the Z1 is out. Im scared that with the first 1x3 my transmission might fail on me or something crazy might happen to it.

Please help =D

vt4lifecuf

Finally finished my 60k maintenance on the 07 Tl-S. I replaced transmission fluid from z1 to redline d4 atf. I have to admit i am redline atf believer now!!!!! The car shifts more smoothly and no more stupid BUMP!!! from 2 to 3 + whenever put into Reverse. I will do another transmission fluid change after 50 miles. I put 4 qtrs into the tranny, did i over kill the fluid? how many quarts is good enough for the transmission?

acurazinetom

........ I put 4 qtrs into the tranny, did i over kill the fluid? how many quarts is good enough for the transmission?[/quote]

It sounds like (from reading) most check level prior to changing to make sure it is not low then measure what was drained out and replace with an equal amount? Usually between 3 to 3.5 quarts. Check you fluid level on the dip stick. Too much can be a bad thing too.

I'm getting ready to start a 3 X 3 too. Glad to hear shifting improves. I am going to see if I notice a change with just the fluid then do the valves.

jon2000

Hey everyone,

There seems to be a lot of discussion on draining/filling the transmission on the TL. I've been reading so many opinions on what to do and use but am looking for some updates as many of the posts are older and opinions may have changed.
I purchased my 2008 Acura TL Type S auto in July, 2012 with 68,000 miles; I now have 72,000 miles. I'd like to do the 3x3 or 4x3 drain/fill in the near future as I have no idea what the previous owner did.

Questions:
1) Is it still acceptable to switch straight to Redline Racing fluid from stock fluid? Anyone have any complaints?

2) Should I do a 1x3 first, drive around for a week then go back and do the 3x3 to complete the 12quart drain/fill?

3) Do I need to worry about doing anything with pressure switches on the Type S at 72,000 miles?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Jon

twigglius

iTrader: (6)

This ATF debate has been discussed so much I wanted to revive this thread instead of starting a new one. i also searched and didn't find anything so... Has anyone tried the Redline D6 vs. the D4?

I hate cars

D6 is a thinner fluid. I don't know why you would want to try it unless you live in a very cold area. I can't remember off the top of my head, I used to know this but its probably close in viscosity to Dex VI and maybe DW-1. I would have to look it up.

ZEE06

i drain and filled 3 quarts with Mobile 1 synthetic atf and my car shifts like heaven now. Much smoother and no rough bumps between shifts either

lusid

I almost want to try out D6 during our winter months in MN. Where temps dip down to -10 to 0 during the night. Then change it out to D4 once it start warming up.. Experiment time for next year since the winter snow is finally melting.

I hate cars

That would be a great use for D6.

sho423

Sorry to bump an old thread but I was wondering whenever I do my first drain, if 3 quarts will come out or will all 9 come out?

350

iTrader: (4)

Only 3 will come out. The overall capacity is 7 qts which is why it's recommended to do a drain and fill 3 times to get the bulk of the fluid out using 9 qts. The only way to get it all out in one shot is a pressure flush which is not recommended.

sho423

Thank you for the response, I need to do this soon. I just ordered 12 quarts of Red Line. I'm worried about how my car shifts now, its keeps kinda jerking every time it shifts. Hopefully this will fix it.

Your ride looks clean!

Chad05TL

When slowing down, these TL's downshift kinda odd anyway. So, I wouldn't let that worry you. At least, I am speaking for my 05. Maybe the 07/08's are not like that since they had some changes.

One thing IHC said I do agree with. When changing switches and fluids and stuff, make sure you do just 1 at a time and let the computer relearn and adjust itself as you go forward with the changes or tune-up. Just doing 1 3x3 will make your computer begin to compensate for the new fluid. Eventually, the performance of the car resolves back nearly to what it was minus at the end where the transmission does not allow the gear to slip down to a lower gear, while mildly accerating on the highway. Because it tends to hold the gear a bit longer and does not let it slip.. Anyway, each step causes changes to be reckoned with by your ECM. So, if you do too many changes at once, it may not like that too much. It may try to make your transmission do something crazy. haha Anyway, you get my point, just let it "come back to zero" after each step before proceeding to the next.

I am going to do this again soon too I think. I have only done it 3 times I think.. Its been a few years already and I still have this car. But no worries though, I just checked my mileage and over the past 1.5 years I have averaged only 2,100 miles per year, and this is my only means of transportation. See, I moved close to work, which is downtown and all grocery stores and even bars are within 3 miles.. But I am avoiding the bars. I even joined a downtown Church, so I can walk to Church. (First Dallas Baptist). Anyway, I'm really profiting by not driving the car so much and walking to work everyday and living close to everything. I still only have 69,500 miles. And I already did the timing belt last year because it was 7 years old. Heck this car might last another 8 years. amazing. haha And I have never seen the check engine light .

acrdr

Tighten the fill bolt first about 1/4 turn
There is a crush washer that will compress and it will loosen up freely

hondaracer4vtec

redline

twcamc

All, I'm brand new to the thread and would like to get some help/guidance on ATF for my 2012 Odyssey. I know I'm in the "wrong" forum, but I am hoping its the right topic. I do understand that most of the discussions were about the Acura TL. The Odyssey is 6 speed AT since its a Touring Elite. The owners manual says to use DW-1. I was just wondering if using the Redline Racing Type F will apply with this vehicle and tranny. Any advice big or small is appreciated. I am considering making the switch but want to make sure no one has had a bad experience, or know about these transmissions to advise otherwise. Thanks

Chad05TL

I don't know about DW-1.

Btw, I just 1 more 3 quart swap before heading out of town next week. Surprisingly, the fluid was not as black as I thought it would be. I could actually see some red tint to it, even though it was real dark. I used racing fluid again. I have not driven it yet. I have 1 more jug of racing fluid, but I may go with some D4 the next time, not totally sure. I don't want to go overboard with the Racing fluid. Will have to see how the transmission responds over the next few days.

pearl905

Amsoil racing ATF for me

Chad05TL

I can only find redline here in Dallas and they are trying to get rid of it. Basically, nobody carries this stuff. Seems odd to say that because that was the first thing I noticed about Dallas when I moved here.. There are more options and availability of products is high. But there are not hardly ANY hi performance shops in Dallas. Maybe have to go to Plano or suburbs..? I don't know. I still don't even know who carries redline or amsoil in the metro.

I hate cars

I've never personally run one of those transmissions so I can only give a generic answer. What are you trying to do, improve shift quality, reliability, or is there a problem with it right now?

The DW-1 is a lighter viscosity than Z1 but more sheer stable meaning Z1 started off thicker but quickly thinned out while DW-1 will hold its viscosity better. In the end they're likely really close in viscosity after a few miles.

You could use anything from Type F (racing, no friction modifiers) D4 (Dex III level of FM and Z1 viscosity) or D6 (roughly Dex III FM levels, thinner like DW-1).

The FM level will affect shift quality and clutch wear. The viscosity doesn't have much of an affect on shift quality except when cold. If you live in a cold area or do mostly short trips you can use the thinner fluids. In a hot climate the thicker fluids might be better. In reality you'll be fine with any viscosity unless you live in an extreme climate.

So if you're looking for better shift quality I would start slow and drive it around for a while with each change. We had to start out this way with the TLs. A single drain and fill with a Dex III fluid, put some miles on it and do another drain and fill. Eventually one of us got ballsy enough to try a drain and fill of type f racing fluid.

I'm sure you would be safe doing a 3x3 of D4 or D6 right off the bat but it's better safe than sorry. If it were mine I would probably do a single drain and fill of Type F but I can't recommend it with a clear conscience without doing it myself first.

Basically D4 and D6 (Dex III and Dex VI) are a safe bet for improving shift quality and longevity. Type F may reduce wear and improve shift quality even more but you have to be careful with it because you will probably be the first one to ever try it in one of those transmissions and we don't know exactly how it's going to react. I would probably stick with D4 or D6 to be safe.

Don't forget Amsoil has an answer to each of those fluids as do most manufacturers. I think Mobil One's version of Dex III is available at most auto parts stores. While the base oil is not likely as good as Redline it should be fine for reasonable change intervals and much better than Z1 and DW-1. Any Dex III or Dex VI equivalent will work. Whether you get the synthetic or dino version of each is up to you.

dcmodels

I assume that your question is perhaps because of the many threads in the Odyssey forums concerning problems with some earlier model Odyssey trans.

I am using a 50/50 mix of RedLine Racing to D4 in my 2009 RDX with the 5-speed. Be aware that when I tried a 75/25 mix of Racing to D4, that there were problems - you can search and read more in the thread THE OPTIMAL PERCENTAGE OF RACING ATF

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299&highlight=optimal+racing

Thats if you wish to try the RedLine Racing, rather than stick with RedLine D4 or Mobil1 Dex-III compatible synthetic or another brand as suggested already.

In other words, I do not know how different the newer 6-speeds may be from the older trans models, and whether or not the newer trans are optimized for DW-1. I believe that the older trans models were optimized for ATF-Z1, and that is one reason I prefer not to use DW-1 which is thinner than Z1.

I too, would suggest that you do only one drain and then drive at least 100 miles before another one. And pay attention to any indications of a problem. You can always go back to an earlier mix of ATF.

NOTE: the 50% of racing is actually a 50/50 mix of Racing and Light Weight Racing, to obtain a viscosity rating similar to D4

In other words, a drain on the RDX is 4 quarts, so I refill with 1qt racing, 1qt LW racing, and 2qts of D4

twcamc

Thanks "Ihatecars" and "dcmodel" for the information. I agree with both of you and that is exactly what my concerns were and what I was trying to achieve. Since my post, I have made 2 of the 3X3 I plan to do on the 6 speed tranny with the D4. So far, the results have been amazing. The odyssey now shift quicker, smoother and overall cleaner with less jerks and noise. It no longer tries to abruptly downshift while I brake but instead the grade logic control works quieter and smoother too. It IS showing some positive signs. The first 2 drain and fills were about 1000 miles apart. I was planning to make one more change with Type F but I may reconsider and just use the remaining D4 I have on the shelf. I may put in 1 quart of the Type F in the last fill. I am just hoping all this will help increase transmission life and overall drive quality. I will keep all posted on the results here and on the Odyssey forums. There are other in that forum looking for answers as well.

Chad05TL, I purchased all my redline products (D4 and Type F from the internet. In fact, both were from Amazon.com. I personally have not looked to purchase them locally but you are correct in that Dallas does not have very many high performance shops. I live south of Dallas and if there were any, I agree with you that they will be up north near Plano, Frisco or even in and around Arlington.


Thanks again to all.

dcmodels

I purchase most RedLine products locally from CARQUEST, cheaper than online from Amazon, and I get to pickup. I cannot purchase the LW racing however, must buy that online.

Doug W.

Greetings,

I have a 2008 TL w/96K miles that I've inexplicably not changed transmission oil. I reviewed several 2010 posts from you on the topic. One of your posts you recommended Redline Racing Type F. I was searching for other comments about that oil and comparing it to the D4 and to Amsoil.

4 years later, do you have any other insight about safely using it in my 3G TL? I ask also because a thread on BITOG, also from 2010-11 said Redline advised against it due to torque converter concerns, and that Redline recommended D4: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/1944921/1.

I plan to do an incremental 3x3 change, separated by 1-1.5K miles between changes.

One other question - we have a 2013 RDX with 34K miles in need of a change. Do you have thoughts or suggestions for best fluid options for that change?

Thanks for your time/reply.

1KLRTOY

I've been using a 60-40 mix of Redline racing type F and D6 in my 06 for the past 10 months (when I got it) with no issues, I did change the switches along with a 3X4 flush(s) I also changed the transmission filter at the same time. The car had 67k at the time. Shifts are crisp and quick and the fluid is still red, so I'm sold. There is plenty of reading on the subject and a bit of controversy by a few doubters. Look for posts by ihatecars, swoosh and a few others. All I can say is that fluid works

1KLRTOY

Something to read, very interesting http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/AT3rdClutch.html

jpm3071

Just an fyi I dont think Innaccurate or IHC is running 100% Type F anymore. They found some flaring so they mixed D4 in with it. There are threads going back and forth about it as well if you search.

I personally run a mix as well and the transmission is great