naser075

Hello every1 which one of these are better AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF.
Am doing a 3X3 transmission flush. Amsoil also has the brake fluid and power steering fluid oil available. Can any of these two companies be trusted and is one better then the other.
please do not suggest me to take part of that GM synchro... whatever. I don't trust anything coming from GM.

thank you all

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

i can tell u IHC vote is on on the Redline. But he will have to tell you why. I too im wondering which is better, and i also would like to do a 3x3 flush. Right now i have mobil 1 atf that was done at a oil shop where they suck the atf out and pump the new stuff back in, but nothing was ever drained. so no particles came out that was sitting n the bottom (I assume)

Hapa DC5

syncromesh is not compatible in an auto tranny.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

I've always used AMSOIL products...the redline was ok, but notchy as hell in colder weather...can't speak for an AT, though...

BradE

Either will do fine. I run Redline myself. The Redline product uses an Ester base, Amsoil is PAO. Both are good, but Ester is better.

I hate cars

Both good with the nod going to Redline D4 for several reasons. As of now I would run Redline racing non FM "type F" fluid. Much better shifts, should increase trans life, and no downsides in a 3g. In a 2g without the DBW you may see harsh shifts.

If you do a search by my username or "Inaccurate" you will find several very detailed posts in much more detail as to why we are running these fluids.

Sandals

iTrader: (2)

whats wrong with oem?

pimpin-tl

OEM is the reason why many are having tranny failures. I went with Amsoil because it's proven. Redline hasn't been used very long in our cars, so we don't know how well it will do. But I will say my tranny shifts crisper and when cold it's a bit rough but only when cold.

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have any opinion/input on Redline D6? Does it have higher Ester content? Would it be better than D4?

maknwar

Is this the fluid you would recommend?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9

I hate cars

It's more of a Dextron VI replacement. Chemistry is about the same as D4 but it's a little thinner. If you live in a very cold area it could be of some benefit but otherwise D4 would likely be the better choice. I'm sure both of them will work fine. Going from memory, D4 is a little thicker than Z1 at full operating temp and D6 is a little thinner. Both start out thinner than Z1 when cold so there's still a cold start advantage over stock with both fluids.

I hate cars

That's the one. Even though it's a little thicker than Z1 at full operating temp, it's still thinner at a cold start.

kidrocking79

for me it's Amsoil or it's nothing...lol Only because Amsoil ATF is a few bucks less than Redline. And I can pick up Amsoil locally at station auto parts.

Chad05TL

This looks easy to do. is there no filter? Anything special you have to do to keep the transmission from slipping afterwards? If I can just figure out what this picture is! haha

Chad05TL

So what you say the shifting is better, do you mean it shifts harder like a shift kit? What is "Better"? What do you mean better? Whats the difference.. Describe what the difference is please.

I hate cars

Chad, there are some very detailed posts on this if you search my username or "Inaccurate".

Shifts are quicker and more positive yet you don't feel them as much as with stock fluid. My trans shifts extremely fast but I only feel the shifts under full throttle.

The TL develops a bump shift over the course of a fluid change interval with Z1 and over the life of the trans. As the shift happens with a low dynamic friction fluid like the factory Z1, the shift begins when it's supposed to but as hydraulic pressure is increased the matching of speeds of the input and output is not linear. The shift begins and it just slips for most of the duration and then all at once it engages which is what you feel inside of the car.

These fluids with a higher dynamic friction shift in a fraction of the time but since it's linear, the peak forces are less and the driver does not feel the shift. Quicker shifts also extend the life of the transmission. You see the tach drop quicker but you don't feel the shift.

Myself, Inaccurate, and a couple others are running the full non friction modified race fluids with excellent results. I've got enough miles now that I can highly recommend it to others. The racing fluid provides amazingly precise and crisp shifts yet they're far from harsh and better than stock shift quality.

I hate cars

The picture on the left is from the driver's side underneath the car with the plastic shield removed. It's the drain plug which uses a 3/8" ratchet (no socket) for removal. Come to think of it, it may use a 1/2" drive, I can't remember.

The right one is the top of the trans near the air filter box. This is the fill plug.

Chad05TL

so there is no filter? just drain and fill? not bad!

THats a ton of reading on those pages and the consensus changed a few times. Basically I just didnt want my transmission to shift "hard" under normal driving conditions and moderate accelerations. I like the smooth shifts at those times. If it has a harder shift if I have it nailed, thats fine though. I guess ATF is the way to go? So many choices. But I'm glad you mentioned the double bump. I have that too right now.

I hate cars

There is a filter but the factory does not specify an interval for it. I guess it's supposed to be a liftetime filter.

There's a screen on the pickup inside of the trans that filters out the large stuff and there's a regular paper element on the outside near the top of the trans that you can replace. There's no traditional pan and filter. These are just to halves of a case bolted together with no pan. To get to the internal filter would require removing the trans from the car and disassembling it. Luckily it's a very coarse screen so unless there's a failure it's not going to get plugged up.

Chad05TL

what is 3x2? I didnt understand that. Also the page I copied above does not mention a paper filter. Is that just for air ventilation?

I hate cars

The filter is not mentioned anywhere but it is shown in exploded parts diagrams. Several people have replaced them.

3x2 is three quarts drained and filled 2 times. 3 quarts is the capacity of the sump so it's just a simple drain and fill done twice.

maknwar

So a 3x3 with redline racing atf, since I have Z1 in my trans, will be ok? I tried reading the other thread, but man thats a lot of info.

alann

Do you think it's safe to use 100% racing fluid if going directly from Z1? I just recently purchased a used car and don't know what the previous owner used but I'm assuming it was Z1. Is it safe to do the 3 drains/fills in one day or should I do it incrementally (3x3 with one week intervals between each drain/fill).

Also, are you running full Type F or are you mixing ATFs like Inaccurate is? (Racing ATF - Type F, D4 ATF, Lightweight Racing ATF, etc)

Sorry for all the questions

mirceapop05

Hi guys,
I have a problem to with my 07 TL base.
After a few visits at the dearship complaining about the transmision shifting very hash (down & up too) they assured me that everything is up to specs, but i am not satisfied and i still think that this car shouldn't shift so hard. So what I am asking is, if I do a tranny flush and replace the old oil (which I don't know what brand it is) with AMSOIL ATF it should smoothen the shifting a bit??? My car has 29K miles and I don't think the transmision oil was ever changed.
Thank you.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Guys Ive been using amsoils super shift transmission fluid for around 2000 miles. Its there version of type F with no friction modifiers. Ive done 4 drain and fills in that time frame leaving me with 86% amsoil type F fluid and 14% regular amsoil synthetic trans fluid.

The shifts are very fast and firm with no slippage. I have nothing bad to say about this fluid.

If your looking for additional protection then if you have an 04-06 you can change out the paper filter. It sits below the intake box. Heres my post on replacing the stock transmission filter
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/changed-my-tranny-filter-some-tips-754525/

You can also add an inline filter from magnefine. I added this filter to compliment my transmission cooler. However, you dont need to add the trans cooler to make this filter operational. Simply buy some transmission hose and run the new hose off the 2 banjo fittings on the rear of the trans and put the filter in between.


https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/116-diy-transmission-cooler-5at-magnefine-filter-lots-pics-754752/

Chad05TL

D4 ATF actually. I called the company. That's their recommendation And i dont know about mixing fluids.

BradE

Mixing is fine.

I would recommend unhooking the battery for 20 minutes after the fluid swap if you are doing a 3x3. The trans is adaptive, and will need to relearn the shifting characteristics with the new fluid. It will do so itself over time, but might cause some goofy shifting.

I hate cars

The racing "type F" fluid works better in our cars. The D4 is just the generic recommendation. It's a great fluid, I ran it for a while but I feel the type F give better shifts and quicker response without sacrificing shift quality at all. "Inaccurate" even had a conversation with Dave over at Redline about it. Very, very good stuff.

Chad05TL

So what Doesnt work? hehe

I hate cars

Basically everything works. It's ironic because at one time everyone was afraid to run anything but the factory Z1. In reality, the chemistries are more similar than they are different.

Since the factory fluid is so heavily friction modified for super soft shifts, the only harm that can come from aftermarket fluids are firm shifts.

Now if it were the other way around and the TL used a non friction modified fluid like the Type F from the factory, you could run into slippage issues if you substituted it with Z1..

Inaccurate

Here is the thread that IHC mentioned -

Racing ATF (click here)

Chad05TL

Is it best to remove the drivers side tire? Also I am going to proceed with the D4. I do have that double bump. I suppose the D4 is good enouh to get rid of the double bump? Any shifting difference between old factory fluid and D4?

Inaccurate

I see no advantage in removing the driver-side wheel to do the trans fluid change.

In my opinion, the D4 will produces shifts which are quicker and a bit firmer than the Z1.

I have no info regarding the double bump. I had never had that issue.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

My car shifts hard and I'm up for an actual 3x3. Back then when I was a newb, I didn't realize our cars held 9 QTS. So I brought it too one guy and he did a drain and fill. Then too another and so on. 3 different types of fluid, all dirty. Now I'm trying to get 9 QTS of Redline and 3+4 gear sensors to fix everything, well hopefully.

Chad05TL

Thats a lot of fluid. Seems there should be abetter way to swap the fluid rather than going through this dril and fill cycle which still doesn't really empty out the old stuff completely. Oh well.. But there is only one place I know if dallas that sells redline. And all the Amsoil people like work out of their house. So finding fluid is like really hard. Or else ship in in. But The place where I bought mine, the guy said that the torque converter holds fluid too. Or something in there does. I thought he said torque converter.. but I dont know diddley about transmissions.

mirceapop05

I just ordered the D4. I hope I'm gonna see an improvement in how the transmision reacts because right now i an not satisfied at all!!! I love the car but I HATE the transmision. There's such a lag between gears and i have the double bump when shifting intoo drive. I just came back from Key West and all that i was thinking on the way was that ILL GET HOME AND ORDER SOME D4!!!
Hope it works. I got 9qts for $114 shipped.

Inaccurate

mirceapop05,

If you find that you like the D4, then you will love the Racing ATF. If you want fast shifts, think about moving to the Racing ATF for your future fluid changes.

I hate cars

I agree. The D4 is a great fluid and everyone will be satisfied with it... But I look at D4 as a stepping stone. As you said, if you like D4 you will like the racing fluid better.

I was hesitant to recommend it to the non racing, non experimental crowd before I had some wheel time but it's perfectly acceptable for the racing crowd as well as the people just looking for a replacement for Z1.

Chad05TL

well, I got enough to change the fluid twice.. if i wanna go "higher" then I can do the Racing ATF on a 3rd swap. I know some of the people on here do the change 3 times to get it as clean as possible. So thats what I am talking about.

Chad05TL

has anyone ever had a problem getting the filler bolt off? My ratchet and extension is really bending.. wont loosen. turning counter-clockwise. haha Car was at operating temp when I popped the hood and heat came rushing up. I drove it. So I know its hot enough. but is cooling now somewhat. the hood is up