Air filter replacement 3G Garage #F-129
03-20-2005, 07:16 AM
#1
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Air filter replacement 3G Garage #F-129
So about how many miles before most of you guys had to replace your air filters? and about how much did it cost?
03-20-2005, 10:50 AM
#2
The Owner's Manual, page 199, recommends replacement at 15,000 miles if you drive in dusty conditions. Nothing said about normal conditions though, so I would recommend checking it at 15,000 miles. If it is OK, check it periodically and change it when you feel like it looks dirty. Some people say 15,000, some 20,000, some say go by the MID, so it's up to you.
It is easy to check the filter. There are 4 8mm bolts holding it down. When you loosen these, they will not fall out because they have a retainer to prevent that.
Before you try to remove the air cleaner housing, there is a cable from the battery with two clips inserted into the housing. Remove these clips first or the housing will not come off. It is a tight fit, but you don't have to remove the hose from the housing to the engine to remove the housing.
The following was posted on 26Jul09 and I have moved it to this thread to make sure people will see it and benefit from it.
I have 12,500 miles on my car, and your thread gave me the incentive to go check mine, which is still very clean, but of course yours will depend on your driving conditions.
The filter lists for $24.31. Here's a picture and a link to the source for the prices.
It is easy to check the filter. There are 4 8mm bolts holding it down. When you loosen these, they will not fall out because they have a retainer to prevent that.
Before you try to remove the air cleaner housing, there is a cable from the battery with two clips inserted into the housing. Remove these clips first or the housing will not come off. It is a tight fit, but you don't have to remove the hose from the housing to the engine to remove the housing.
The following was posted on 26Jul09 and I have moved it to this thread to make sure people will see it and benefit from it.
Originally Posted by pkarandi
I had a slightly hard time getting those cable clips off the air filter housing, until I figured out the correct way to unclip them. I heard someone else refer to this type of advice, but it wasn't stated explicitly, so here goes... Maybe this will save someone else some time and aggravation.
First:
Remove the clips first (labeled "B" in the diagrams above); before loosening the screws on the air filter housing. If you remove the screws first, you won't be able to get the clips off because the housing will move around when you are yanking on the clips. When reinstalling, put the clips in last to avoid the same problem.
When removing the clips, push the clip towards the passenger side of the car while pulling upward. They will come out real easily if you do this. I originally struggled with it while just trying to pull the clip upward, which was a PITA. When re-attaching the clips after you are done, just push them straight down into the hole.
To summarize: push up and left to get them out, push straight down to get them back in.
This is a 5-10 minute job if you don't waste 10 min trying to get the clips off!
First:
Remove the clips first (labeled "B" in the diagrams above); before loosening the screws on the air filter housing. If you remove the screws first, you won't be able to get the clips off because the housing will move around when you are yanking on the clips. When reinstalling, put the clips in last to avoid the same problem.
When removing the clips, push the clip towards the passenger side of the car while pulling upward. They will come out real easily if you do this. I originally struggled with it while just trying to pull the clip upward, which was a PITA. When re-attaching the clips after you are done, just push them straight down into the hole.
To summarize: push up and left to get them out, push straight down to get them back in.
This is a 5-10 minute job if you don't waste 10 min trying to get the clips off!
The filter lists for $24.31. Here's a picture and a link to the source for the prices.
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Undying Dreams (08-17-2012)
03-20-2005, 11:43 AM
#4
2004 TL w/ 6MT & Navi
Originally Posted by AsianTL
Should I get K&N air filter instead of OEM air filter for $20.00 more?
03-20-2005, 03:27 PM
#5
Registered Member
If you live in a dusty area (environmental or construction or both), I would advise against using a K&N since they don't filter as well as the OEM units. Otherwise, the only other thing to consider when going K&N is the fact that it is an oil-wetted filter so expect to be cleaning the throttle body and butterfly a few times a year.
03-20-2005, 05:21 PM
#7
2004 TL w/ 6MT & Navi
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
...so expect to be cleaning the throttle body and butterfly a few times a year.
I'd say maybe so if you use too much oil. But, if the filter is properly cleaned and re-oiled, there should be nothing to worry about. I had one in my '01 CL-S for 20k+ miles and never a problem.
I do concur with the first part of SouthernBoy's statement concerning using the K&N in dusty regions. It is not recommended.
Trending Topics
03-21-2005, 08:57 AM
#11
2004 TL w/ 6MT & Navi
Originally Posted by somi2002
thanks for the advice and feedback. BTW where is the dust and pollen filter located?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87494
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Undying Dreams (08-17-2012)
03-21-2005, 09:45 AM
#12
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Do you know if this is the same for previous year Acura's as well (2002?)
Originally Posted by jmn4667
03-21-2005, 10:29 AM
#13
Originally Posted by TBone2004
Do you know if this is the same for previous year Acura's as well (2002?)
03-21-2005, 11:10 AM
#15
Burning Brakes
Guys,
It's always a good idea to check the air filter element out every now and then. Back when I had my Camry, I found that a furry rodent had apparently crawled up my airbox and had chewed up part of the cotton element. Thank goodness I found out and replaced it right away. I never had it happen again but stories on this board about mice chewing through knock sensor wires shows that a little inspection may help protect your TL.
dsc888
It's always a good idea to check the air filter element out every now and then. Back when I had my Camry, I found that a furry rodent had apparently crawled up my airbox and had chewed up part of the cotton element. Thank goodness I found out and replaced it right away. I never had it happen again but stories on this board about mice chewing through knock sensor wires shows that a little inspection may help protect your TL.
dsc888
03-21-2005, 05:12 PM
#16
Moderator
Honestly,
K&N airfilters don't filter very well in many applications. There are exceptions though. But in most cases, you're better off using a standard paper air filter, they work best for most applications.
Always change your airfilter if you see a trend of increasing Silicon in your UOAs, a good service interval for paper airfilters is 2-years/20,000 miles.
They really aren't that expensive, about $10-$15 when you buy an aftermarket such as a Fram, Purolator, or Napa. Oh yeah, btw, Fram airfilters are fine. Its just the oil filters that you have to watch out for.
Michael
K&N airfilters don't filter very well in many applications. There are exceptions though. But in most cases, you're better off using a standard paper air filter, they work best for most applications.
Always change your airfilter if you see a trend of increasing Silicon in your UOAs, a good service interval for paper airfilters is 2-years/20,000 miles.
They really aren't that expensive, about $10-$15 when you buy an aftermarket such as a Fram, Purolator, or Napa. Oh yeah, btw, Fram airfilters are fine. Its just the oil filters that you have to watch out for.
Michael
06-16-2006, 07:29 AM
#17
Originally Posted by AsianTL
Should I get K&N air filter instead of OEM air filter for $20.00 more?
®ACURA
ServiceNews
April 2005
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:
A Word to the Wise
Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular among the import tuner crowd, these items may improve engine performance by letting the engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And for that all-important sound when you wind up the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a deep, throaty tone.
Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water from getting into the intake tract, all the while putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters kick up engine performance a notch, they also have their dark side. They can really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered by warranty!
With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of engine damage from hydro-locking if you drive in wet weather or plow through standing water. These systems are usually designed to draw air from the bottom of the engine compartment or from the front of the radiator where the air is cold and dense. The air filter used in these systems doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture (water doesn’t compress) so it stops before reaching top dead center (FDC). Even though the piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends and gets shorter. With each compression and power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it eventually fails from metal fatigue.
With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of premature engine wear and contamination. Many of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the filter causing premature wear of the pistons, piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul up the throttle body, and the components of the intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC) systems.
So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your clients they’re taking a really big risk if they run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
06-16-2006, 07:56 AM
#18
Stock TL Air Filter
Is the standard TL air filter for (2004-2006) a 2-stage type? Looking in my air box, the filter is 2 distinct colors which I assume is 2 different materials. Is this a factory pre-oiled paper filter or a non-oiled filter? I search the internet for Fram, Purolator, and Napa and all that are available for the 3g TL are a single stage paper filter. Is there an available aftermarket 2-stage PAPER replacement filter, or do I stick with the stock Acura part number? I'm not interested in foam or gauze filters because of their poorer filtering ability. Also does anyone have the standard part number for the air filter for an 06 TL? Thanks.
Steve
Steve
06-16-2006, 10:12 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by cristphoto
No to the K&N. Read the attached Acura bulletin especially the last sentence.
®ACURA
ServiceNews
April 2005
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:
A Word to the Wise
Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular among the import tuner crowd, these items may improve engine performance by letting the engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And for that all-important sound when you wind up the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a deep, throaty tone.
Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water from getting into the intake tract, all the while putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters kick up engine performance a notch, they also have their dark side. They can really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered by warranty!
With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of engine damage from hydro-locking if you drive in wet weather or plow through standing water. These systems are usually designed to draw air from the bottom of the engine compartment or from the front of the radiator where the air is cold and dense. The air filter used in these systems doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture (water doesn’t compress) so it stops before reaching top dead center (FDC). Even though the piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends and gets shorter. With each compression and power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it eventually fails from metal fatigue.
With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of premature engine wear and contamination. Many of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the filter causing premature wear of the pistons, piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul up the throttle body, and the components of the intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC) systems.
So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your clients they’re taking a really big risk if they run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
®ACURA
ServiceNews
April 2005
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:
A Word to the Wise
Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular among the import tuner crowd, these items may improve engine performance by letting the engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And for that all-important sound when you wind up the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a deep, throaty tone.
Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water from getting into the intake tract, all the while putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters kick up engine performance a notch, they also have their dark side. They can really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered by warranty!
With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of engine damage from hydro-locking if you drive in wet weather or plow through standing water. These systems are usually designed to draw air from the bottom of the engine compartment or from the front of the radiator where the air is cold and dense. The air filter used in these systems doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture (water doesn’t compress) so it stops before reaching top dead center (FDC). Even though the piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends and gets shorter. With each compression and power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it eventually fails from metal fatigue.
With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of premature engine wear and contamination. Many of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the filter causing premature wear of the pistons, piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul up the throttle body, and the components of the intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC) systems.
So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your clients they’re taking a really big risk if they run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
There's my
you can take that to the bank.
06-16-2006, 10:51 AM
#21
Moderator
I have a 1996 Grand Am with over 180,000miles on, and only used K&N filter on it.
06-17-2006, 12:13 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by Michael Wan
Wow....that engine still runs? How many intake manifold gaskets have you been through?
07-03-2006, 04:41 PM
#23
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I need to change my air filter. How do I remove the clips to the filter housing? Should I just pull up on the cable, or is there a release on the bottom of the clip?
Thanks
Thanks
07-03-2006, 04:46 PM
#24
Registered Member
Originally Posted by bjj160
I need to change my air filter. How do I remove the clips to the filter housing? Should I just pull up on the cable, or is there a release on the bottom of the clip?
Thanks
Thanks
07-04-2006, 07:34 AM
#25
Originally Posted by AsianTL
Should I get K&N air filter instead of OEM air filter for $20.00 more?
®ACURA
ServiceNews
April 2005
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:
A Word to the Wise
Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular among the import tuner crowd, these items may improve engine performance by letting the engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And for that all-important sound when you wind up the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a deep, throaty tone.
Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water from getting into the intake tract, all the while putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and low-restriction air filters kick up engine performance a notch, they also have their dark side. They can really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered by warranty!
With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of engine damage from hydro-locking if you drive in wet weather or plow through standing water. These systems are usually designed to draw air from the bottom of the engine compartment or from the front of the radiator where the air is cold and dense. The air filter used in these systems doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture (water doesn’t compress) so it stops before reaching top dead center (FDC). Even though the piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends and gets shorter. With each compression and power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it eventually fails from metal fatigue.
With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of premature engine wear and contamination. Many of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the filter causing premature wear of the pistons, piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul up the throttle body, and the components of the intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC) systems.
So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your clients they’re taking a really big risk if they run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
06-18-2007, 04:12 PM
#27
Advanced
I couldn't find a replacement air filter in stock at 3 Pep Boys near me (around Philadelphia area). So I went to the Acura dealership and paid $25 for the Honda filter. Alot of money but saved me more running around.
12-25-2007, 04:39 AM
#28
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Thank for the help me.
Thank for the help me. Sam __________________________________________________ _______ liberty reserve hyip
02-14-2008, 08:15 PM
#29
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
On the '04 and '05 TL, there are no air filter housing clips. The top section is secured by four small screws (bolts?). I suspect you are referring to the conduit which runs along the rear (engine side) of the housing. If so, as you face the engine from the front, pull those clips to your left, towards the engine. There is a small open slop through which they'll slip out.
I guess the correct thing to di is to "slide it towards the engine" 
I managed to not break the second clip.Now, the question I have is where can I get a replacement clip? Is there even a part number for this? Help would be appreciated.
02-15-2008, 05:39 AM
#30
Registered Member
Originally Posted by nextech
OK, I'm retarded. Even after reading this I managed to break one of the clips. Whe you said "pull towards the engine", I pulled up towards the engine I guess the correct thing to di is to "slide it towards the engine" I managed to not break the second clip.
Now, the question I have is where can I get a replacement clip? Is there even a part number for this? Help would be appreciated.
I guess the correct thing to di is to "slide it towards the engine" I managed to not break the second clip.Now, the question I have is where can I get a replacement clip? Is there even a part number for this? Help would be appreciated.
03-08-2008, 11:01 AM
#31
GO DAWGS!! SICK'EM!!
this was pain in my ass doing this DIY. I can not get the clips off of the hose. So disconnect the battery. Man, but I have to say that save me 1 hour labor at dealer.
03-08-2008, 12:05 PM
#32
I did this a week ago and didnt have any problems. I just unscrew the 3-4 screw and the bolt and jiggle the casing loose and took out the filter and stuck the new one in.
03-08-2008, 02:04 PM
#33
GO DAWGS!! SICK'EM!!
I got the casing lose, but the back of the casing where the hose are connect it too refuse to come off...and it made it hard for the Filter to come out.
Maybe the more I do, i will get it off...
Maybe the more I do, i will get it off...
04-26-2008, 05:59 PM
#36
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It's amazing how quick how some of the administrators on AcuraZine are to swoop down on and close certain threads and/or delete certain posts that don't meet their own 'self-centered' high standards. But here we have something that's still around after 9 hours that should be eradicated. Is anyone aware of the possibility of viruses, spyware, and trojan (no pun intended) horses their machines could get by clicking on one of these pics?
04-26-2008, 06:18 PM
#37
Slow Paper> No Paper
Originally Posted by DMZ
It's amazing how quick how some of the administrators on AcuraZine are to swoop down on and close certain threads and/or delete certain posts that don't meet their own 'self-centered' high standards. But here we have something that's still around after 9 hours that should be eradicated. Is anyone aware of the possibility of viruses, spyware, and trojan (no pun intended) horses their machines could get by clicking on one of these pics?
04-26-2008, 06:36 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by Cdat
What's even more crazed is that I commented on this post this morning stating that someone should boot this a** Hole and my post was deleted.
04-26-2008, 10:05 PM
#40
I deleted the porn post this morning, and deleted the posts by CDAT and DMZ because they were no longer necessary. Should I have left them remain open when the post they were talking about had already been deleted?
We can't be everywhere and rather than criticizing us for not catching something that you just did, you could just click on the Bad Post Report icon and I would have seen it and acted on it immediately.
Thanks to IntegraVT for finally reporting this, which is what brought me into this thread and deleted the porn post.
I'll leave the other posts open for a while, but, like the porn post but of course not in the same category as that, they are not germane to the topic of this thread and will ultimately be deleted also.
The porner has been banned. They usually only make one post and we never see them again, so we don't bother to ban them, but this was a repeat offender so he needs to be stopped and that's why he was banned, but he will be back under another name. They crawl in through a back door and in the current configuration the vBulletin is operating we can't keep them out. We will be updated by IB soon and that should catch most of the spam.
So familiarize yourselves with the location of the Bad Post Report icon and shoot us an email as soon as you see spam of any kind.
We can't be everywhere and rather than criticizing us for not catching something that you just did, you could just click on the Bad Post Report icon and I would have seen it and acted on it immediately.
Thanks to IntegraVT for finally reporting this, which is what brought me into this thread and deleted the porn post.
I'll leave the other posts open for a while, but, like the porn post but of course not in the same category as that, they are not germane to the topic of this thread and will ultimately be deleted also.
The porner has been banned. They usually only make one post and we never see them again, so we don't bother to ban them, but this was a repeat offender so he needs to be stopped and that's why he was banned, but he will be back under another name. They crawl in through a back door and in the current configuration the vBulletin is operating we can't keep them out. We will be updated by IB soon and that should catch most of the spam.
So familiarize yourselves with the location of the Bad Post Report icon and shoot us an email as soon as you see spam of any kind.