Aftermarket rotors/caliper for 2007 TL
#1
Aftermarket rotors/caliper for 2007 TL
Hi. Where is a good place to buy aftermarket rotors and caliper. My rear left caliper is stuck/sticks and creating heat. I lubed the caliper pins but it doesn’t help. I don’t want to replace the rotor and pads without fixing the sticky caliper first.
#5
Burning Brakes
Go with an OEM caliper and chose whatever brake pads and rotors you like. There are about a billion threads on this topic already and your choice is dependent upon what you want to achieve from your setup.
Rotors are rotors are for the most part. If you have a daily driver and don't care that much about street performance or looks, head on over to Autozone and pick up a cheap set. Otherwise, do some research and figure out what you'd like.
I personally like Centric blank rotors with the painted hub and lip. I like to compliment the rotors with Akebono ceramic brake pads since I'm not a fan of brake dust. I'm not racing on the streets, so I can sacrifice a little stopping power for lower dust.
Rotors are rotors are for the most part. If you have a daily driver and don't care that much about street performance or looks, head on over to Autozone and pick up a cheap set. Otherwise, do some research and figure out what you'd like.
I personally like Centric blank rotors with the painted hub and lip. I like to compliment the rotors with Akebono ceramic brake pads since I'm not a fan of brake dust. I'm not racing on the streets, so I can sacrifice a little stopping power for lower dust.
#9
Senior Moderator
rockauto.com has OEM replacements.
#10
#11
Senior Moderator
Typically corrosion in the pins so people end up rebuilding them with new seals and use a wire brush /drill attachment to clean up the corrosion inside.
You can actually buy the rebuild set as well
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2007...is--rear-brake
You can actually buy the rebuild set as well
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2007...is--rear-brake
#12
One more question. What is the best method to remove the two screws holding the rotor without a power tool or power drill? I will be working on the street without any AC outlet available.
#13
Burning Brakes
PB Blaster and an impact screwdriver will be the tools you want to start with. If possible, try to find a Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) bit to use instead of the normal Phillip's head bit as well. It might help the process.
If the screws don't budge after using the above items, you may have to try using a MAP torch.
Two weeks ago, it took me almost 15 minutes/screw with my wife's RDX. They just would not budge, but patience is key!
If the screws don't budge after using the above items, you may have to try using a MAP torch.
Two weeks ago, it took me almost 15 minutes/screw with my wife's RDX. They just would not budge, but patience is key!
#15
Senior Moderator
Rockauto.com should have everything you need. The caliper piston probably has rust inside causing the sticking! When is the last time you changed the full brake fluid? Brake fluid absorbs water and can rust the brake system from the inside out so you need to replace the brake fluid completely every 2-3 years MAX
#16
Rockauto.com should have everything you need. The caliper piston probably has rust inside causing the sticking! When is the last time you changed the full brake fluid? Brake fluid absorbs water and can rust the brake system from the inside out so you need to replace the brake fluid completely every 2-3 years MAX
#17
Before I order these parts can someone verify they will fit 2007 Acura TL? Thanks
Akebono ACT787 ProACT - front brake pad
Akebono ACT536 ProACT - rear brake pad
Centric 120.40046 - front rotor
Centric 120.40061 - rear rotor
Akebono ACT787 ProACT - front brake pad
Akebono ACT536 ProACT - rear brake pad
Centric 120.40046 - front rotor
Centric 120.40061 - rear rotor
#20
I changed all 4 rotors and installed brand new pads and the damn left rear caliper is still bitting onto the pad and not freely moving back after releasing the brake. I think I have a stuck or sticky piston. When I changed the pads I noticed strong resistance with the C-clamp that I was trying to push the piston back. Anybody knows what is the aftermarket brand that is as good as the OEM? Thanks
#21
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I changed all 4 rotors and installed brand new pads and the damn left rear caliper is still bitting onto the pad and not freely moving back after releasing the brake. I think I have a stuck or sticky piston. When I changed the pads I noticed strong resistance with the C-clamp that I was trying to push the piston back. Anybody knows what is the aftermarket brand that is as good as the OEM? Thanks
#23
just buy a large bottle from the parts store doesn't need to be Honda stuff. you can buy re-manufactured calipers from any parts store bring your old one with to make sure its the same and you will give them your old one to so you don't have a core charge.
#24
A parts store caliper will work, and usually has a lifetime warranty. No, its not anywhere near as good as OEM. But again...warranty.
This problem probably occured from lack of brake fluid flushes, BTW. It causes rust to form inside the lines.
This problem probably occured from lack of brake fluid flushes, BTW. It causes rust to form inside the lines.
#25
Ok thanks everyone. I just want to make non Honda brake fluid is safe to use.
One more issue. The backing plate shield is completely rot to hell and I just ripped off the entire plate to make it look clean. I read online that it’s not necessary need it and trying to install it is a lot of work.
One more issue. The backing plate shield is completely rot to hell and I just ripped off the entire plate to make it look clean. I read online that it’s not necessary need it and trying to install it is a lot of work.
Last edited by VictorTL; 10-15-2018 at 03:45 PM.
#27
Senior Moderator
#29
Senior Moderator
yeah gotta remove the hub apparently
just cut it off and hope nothing hits the backside of your brakes while driving
just cut it off and hope nothing hits the backside of your brakes while driving
#30
Ok thanks everyone. I just want to make non Honda brake fluid is safe to use.
One more issue. The backing plate shield is completely rot to hell and I just ripped off the entire plate to make it look clean. I read online that it’s not necessary need it and trying to install it is a lot of work.
One more issue. The backing plate shield is completely rot to hell and I just ripped off the entire plate to make it look clean. I read online that it’s not necessary need it and trying to install it is a lot of work.
oh and FYI re-manufactured calipers are just rebuild OEM ones if you didn't already know
Last edited by djw88; 10-16-2018 at 09:30 AM.
#32
Senior Moderator
why not, you're already pulling off your calipers and rotors..
#33
Question on parking brake shoe part 43154-S47-N01 . Does this only one brake shoe for that price? I assume Acura doesn’t sell them as a set like a regular brake pad.
Last edited by VictorTL; 10-17-2018 at 07:15 PM.
#34
Senior Moderator
It's per shoe.. so you'll need 4
#37
#38
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All DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids are compatible; you can even mix them.
#40
08 TL type-S
Thanks for this thread! I got some oem copys by Centric, they've changed OEM number to Centric 30110010. look forward to the pads! I put on the aftermarket from O'reilly's Carbon Metallic, they squeak , and squeak, and squeak again... I want some ceramic oem.....
Ceramic Pads w/ShimsCentric's engineering team carefully selects and tests each friction compound to ensure proper stopping performance throughout the lifetime of the brake pad. With three in-house brake dyno's and real-time vehicle testing Centric is the aftermarket leader in brake pads and shoes.
Features:
CENTRIC Warranty Information:
90 days/3,000 miles
Ceramic Pads w/ShimsCentric's engineering team carefully selects and tests each friction compound to ensure proper stopping performance throughout the lifetime of the brake pad. With three in-house brake dyno's and real-time vehicle testing Centric is the aftermarket leader in brake pads and shoes.
Features:
- 100% shimmed to eliminate noise and vibration.
- Positive molded.
- Specialized ceramic friction formulas provide excellent stopping power.
- Ceramic friction compounds provide extended pad life.
- Linear response both cold and hot; never "grabby".
- Low dust formulations keep wheels clean.
- 100% Asbestos-free formulas.
- Scorched for improved bed-in.
CENTRIC Warranty Information:
90 days/3,000 miles