Adjusting brake pedal to take up the slack??
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Adjusting brake pedal to take up the slack??
This is going to be my vacation project so I was wondering if anyone has done this before on a TL so I can know if I need to put aside 5 minutes or an hour.
What I want to do is take up the slack in the brake pedal. Over the years the pedal has gotten more and more slop. It has to go farther now before the brakes apply than when new. Even when new, mine had a lot of play, more than my ex's TL. There are no issues with the bleeding of the brakes, this is only the pedal take up. I know I might have to adjust the brake switches because the brake lights come on from just barely touching the pedal.
I don't like having to push the pedal so far, it takes away from the brake feel and reaction time.
Anyone ever taken the slack out of the pedal? I'm sure there's an adjustment near the top of the pedal.
What I want to do is take up the slack in the brake pedal. Over the years the pedal has gotten more and more slop. It has to go farther now before the brakes apply than when new. Even when new, mine had a lot of play, more than my ex's TL. There are no issues with the bleeding of the brakes, this is only the pedal take up. I know I might have to adjust the brake switches because the brake lights come on from just barely touching the pedal.
I don't like having to push the pedal so far, it takes away from the brake feel and reaction time.
Anyone ever taken the slack out of the pedal? I'm sure there's an adjustment near the top of the pedal.
#2
Three Wheelin'
mine is a 2005 also and It felt sloppy until i changed my rotors for stoptech, rotora pads and the brake fluid which was ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid. Now she grabs instantly and there is definitely less pedal travel. Im sure you have a much better setup but just letting you know on my experience... also dont really wanna go off topic but just to let you know, ever since i changed that app sensor, the car has not changed and still drives great. I cant belive i drive in "D" all the time...
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
That's great to hear. The APP sensor is on my Christmas list thanks to your input.
The Rotora BBK definately did not help things. The pedal is just as firm if not firmer than stock but it might have just a hair more travel. This is one thing that makes me think the Rotoras have more overall piston area which I didn't want.
It's supposed to rain for the next 7 days now so I have a little time to think about it.
The Rotora BBK definately did not help things. The pedal is just as firm if not firmer than stock but it might have just a hair more travel. This is one thing that makes me think the Rotoras have more overall piston area which I didn't want.
It's supposed to rain for the next 7 days now so I have a little time to think about it.
#4
Rev High; Drive Happy
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My mechanic was able to adjust the slack before...
But I don't know what happened, after a week of driving it just went back to sloppy.
And as my brakes begin to fade I can feel my brake pedal feel 'weak'. It doesn't feel like it's biting till i'm 2/3 in of the brake.
But I don't know what happened, after a week of driving it just went back to sloppy.
And as my brakes begin to fade I can feel my brake pedal feel 'weak'. It doesn't feel like it's biting till i'm 2/3 in of the brake.
#6
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#7
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Matt, most cars have and adjustable push rod. The TL has a threaded end at the brake pedal side, but I'd be very cautious as you don't want to keep the MC loaded.
After driving, coast to a stop and hit the rotors with the infrared and see if any are not up to temp indicating the pads may be staying away from the rotor(s).
After driving, coast to a stop and hit the rotors with the infrared and see if any are not up to temp indicating the pads may be staying away from the rotor(s).
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#8
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Matt, most cars have and adjustable push rod. The TL has a threaded end at the brake pedal side, but I'd be very cautious as you don't want to keep the MC loaded.
After driving, coast to a stop and hit the rotors with the infrared and see if any are not up to temp indicating the pads may be staying away from the rotor(s).
After driving, coast to a stop and hit the rotors with the infrared and see if any are not up to temp indicating the pads may be staying away from the rotor(s).
#9
I too am wondering about this.. I replaced my stock brakes at 75k, and now my foot was in a habit of stopping at a certain point to hold the brake at a stop light, and now I have to press further to keep the car from rolling forward. If you find out what to adjust please update. Its getting annoying..
#10
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I too am wondering about this.. I replaced my stock brakes at 75k, and now my foot was in a habit of stopping at a certain point to hold the brake at a stop light, and now I have to press further to keep the car from rolling forward. If you find out what to adjust please update. Its getting annoying..
It sounds like it's the standard that most cars have. A threaded rod near the top of the brake pedal that you can adjust to take out the slop. You have to make sure the brakes don't drag as turbonut said and you may have to readjust the brake light switch or your brake lights could stay on. I'll post a DIY when I do it probably after Christmas since it's going to rain until Christmas. But you have to be very careful or you can overheat and wear out your brakes if you do it wrong.
You need to determine if it's air in the system or wear that's causing the pedal to sink farther before you adjust. Adjusting to compensate for air will cause issues.
#11
Racer
Be sure to leave a small amount of clearance at that adjustment between that rod & pedal, if the rod is pre-loaded some you will usually get a gradual lock-up at your brake calipers.
#12
I've never noticed any trouble on my 05 6MT. It sounds odd that the problem would just come right back after adjusting the pushrod. I'm wondering if it may have something to do with the plastic bushings that the pedal rotates on. Perhaps try wiggling the pedal itself and looking for play in it's axis.
Perhaps it could also be air inside the ABS modulator. I've heard of this causing a mushy pedal feel. It can also be VERY difficult to remove. You have to do some ABS stops to cycle the air out, and then re-bleed again and again...
Perhaps it could also be air inside the ABS modulator. I've heard of this causing a mushy pedal feel. It can also be VERY difficult to remove. You have to do some ABS stops to cycle the air out, and then re-bleed again and again...
#13
OCD
iTrader: (3)
Surprised I have never seen this thread before as I have this same issue. Did you ever find a way to reduce your pedal travel ?? I Feel like there is a good 1-2 inches of travel that does little to nothing then it grabs really hard.
I've tried new front pads/ rotors, rebuilding the slightly sticking rear caliper pistons, bleeding the brakes multiple times all without improvement. I have always wondered if it was the are in the ABS modulator even though technically ours were not recalled for the issue.
I've tried new front pads/ rotors, rebuilding the slightly sticking rear caliper pistons, bleeding the brakes multiple times all without improvement. I have always wondered if it was the are in the ABS modulator even though technically ours were not recalled for the issue.
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