nfnsquared

Thanks!! Did the GSP come with the dampers for each side? If not, did you install the dampers from the OEM shafts onto the GSP shafts?

I'm about to replace both upper and lower ball joints (still have originals) and I figured it might be a good idea to do the axles at the same time even though they aren't giving me any problems. Really a crap shoot on whether or not to replace, I guess. AA has the GSP axles for $153 shipped (both, 10% discount) with LLT warranty. Hard to beat that peace of mind I suppose...

Majofo

I believe they weren't included. I think it did come with new axle nuts though.

I don't think I installed the dampers from the old shafts.

Majofo

I actually have a set of new shafts for the TL, auto though. Thinking of putting them on CL.

Majofo

Popping the axle nut was a bitch on my passenger side. Removing the shafts just takes finesse and a big ass pry bar.
I would suggest replacing the axle seal if you're going to replace the axle. My seal was leaking on the driver side.

thoiboi

OEM?

Would they fit Type S?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

fuck, i dont want to deal with the labor on these.

Majofo

I think they're carquest / worldpac axles from Advance. They didn't have GSP axles, so I picked up the carquest brand.

NFN, don't forget to drain the trans first.
A buddy of mine was asking a bunch of questions about replacing axles when he was working on his wife's car..
I forgot to remind him to drain the trans first.. came back a day later.. he gave me a poker face thanks, looked down at his soaked garage floor.

Majofo

I'm guessing NFN just wants to pop those axle nuts with his IR!!!

thoiboi

Why not DIY?

Majofo

When I was working on the TL, it was before the Dewalt..
I was jumping on my 3 foot breaker bar like a pogo stick. Lucky I didn't break anything on the car or my body.
It finally popped.. and I'm not so tiny.

It was far easier to pop the crank pulley bolt with that method than the passenger side axle nut. The driver side was easy. Not sure what hung it up.

I appreciate those times, and it makes me appreciate power tools so much more.. life is good!

Majofo

I'm pretty sure he's saying, he doesn't want to do the labor, not pay for it.

nfnsquared

Hehe, yup!! I ain't worried about them axle nuts coming off

I was watching the ETCG video and I didn't notice any fluid leaking when he popped the driver's side. The SM does indeed say to drain the trans...My 6MT is due for a drain and fill of the GMSMF, so I'll just drain it anyhow...

thoiboi

ahh thanks for translating, my crab is a bit rusty..

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

cuz its labor intensive, joethoiboi

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

can I borrow the Dewalt?
I'm tiny and had a hard time popping the crank bolt.

thoiboi

go buy your own

Thinking about picking this one up instead of the Dewalt.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2763-20

Majofo

The Dewalt might spin you instead!
And no.. I read a review on you on yelp regarding a spare tire.
You can however drive over and I pop it for you, send you on your way

Majofo

I was going to get the IR..
But the Dewalt was slightly cheaper and they're growing their power tool segment.. I was sold.
Can't go wrong with IR, Dewalt or Milwaukee.

What really sold me on the Dewalt was aftermarket battery support. Dirt cheap.

nfnsquared

I guess the novelty of self-inflicted chest hickies has worn off on CrabMan

Majofo

^

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

god damnit, majofo dont post the pic.

thoiboi

oooh.. wow didn't know there was aftermarket support. But that's a non-issue for me because I strongly dislike using non-OEM batteries in my things (read: brand-whore).

Majofo

Explain to me why you're not driving a bimmer ladiboi?
Actually one of the 3rd parties is actually the manufacture of their lithium batteries, but sells an off-brand variety.
It's exactly the same package and cells but 1/3 the price. I bought the drill without a battery and the "3rd" party battery.. saved about $50 that way.
When it comes to lithium batteries.. I'm not a brand whore because that's the part that the mfg is saving their money. Lowest bid.
I used to work within component reliability for a computer mfg and it was the same way. My Ryobi lithium battery died within a month.. also very expensive and no third party support at the time.. got me NiCd replacements instead.

thoiboi

Because cheap

Acra is a very reputable luxury brand


couldn't say that with a straight face..

I think I've just had poor QC on the 3rd party batteries I've bought for my GoPro and Canon dSLR that have deterred me from them altogether.

Majofo

get the heck out of here.. you don't have a set of wasabi batteries.. best thing ever.

They're cheap.. buy 3 for price of 1.. if one takes a dump, two more!

I'd rather have one quality battery.. but you can't depend on OE being quality when it comes to batteries, with the exception of a few brands.

Abacus

necro.

my 2006 MT is still on original axles 185k miles and clicking is happening. I'm not going to go the Raxle route, I don't plan on keeping this car for more than another year or so, however I should replace so i'll do both sides because it's MT and I read that somewhere.

my question for you guys is should i go with the carquest brand from advanced autoparts, or GSV?

advanced autoparts 170 for both plus tax
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...136/10019600-p
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...127/20870401-p

gsv 150 for both

your insight is appreciated.

90foxnotch

Just thought Id chime in, My type s 6mt needs axles this spring so Ive been researching a lot and hear mixed reviews about aftermarket ones. I know a parts guy at my local Honda dealer and he recommends Advanced because they are brand new axles, not remans. He also laughed when he told me how much the OEM ones were and said they install a lot of advanced axles which I thought was funny.

6spd-GERCO

I pony'd up the money for OEM axles $450 for the pair, I keep the old axles as spares. The old Axles lasted 175k before I started to get the shake at certain RPM's it was due to a bad outer joint. I did the install my self pretty easy job.

INSANE SHAFTS Has TL AXLES for $370.00 the pair. I have a set for my Integra (not installed) they look really nice and the joints feel stout compared to my duralast axles lol.

Don't forget RockAuto, it's comparable in quality to the bigbox autoparts store axles without the overhead.

fclegendland

So are both axles specific to manuals? Auto axles (neither side) will not work in manuals? Correct? Reading through
this thread was a bit confusing.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Correct, the axles for the Auto and Manual cars are different.

Abacus

Now I'm seeing alltime low price for both at some joint called CarID, the model numbers are correct, I think I'm just gonna buy them through here and have my local mechanic install for $200 since I'm an idiot and don't know anything.

https://www.carid.com/2006-acura-tl-...165078575.html

DMZ

sweeT n Lo

May be a ​​​​​​dumb question, but is it weird that the Carquest-new-cv-axle-shaft-assembly-ncv36136 and GSP-NCV36136-Axle-Shaft-Assembly axles have the same part number(s)? Are they made by the same manufacturer? Trying to figure out if I should just buy locally or order them from Amazon.

Reinaldo Ortega

I just lowered my car and now I'm having this bad shaking when I go 20 mph need help with this thanks in advance...

SiGGy

I replaced my axles with gsp. 6 speed manual. No issues with them once installed. It took me maybe 3 hours total going slow and that includes setup/putting away everything.

I recommend using an impact on the axle nuts to loosen them with wheels on before you lift it; no need to even mess with the indent on the lock the nut. And use torque sticks to get it to 120 lb/ft when installing.

Hardest part is getting lower ball joint out if you don't have a good tool. You could try the upper ball joint too though might be easier.

I paid ~$90 total for both I think from partsgeek.

I got about 120k out of the stock axles. I had steering wobble on acceleration,vibration and clicking/odd sounds especially in the winter.
.

SiGGy

Only the passenger side (right) is different. Driver side (left) is the same been auto and manual.

DMZ

The universal answer here is APWI's or SURTRACK from rockauto. Have them installed 2 years now and they're just fine. Under $50 each! Why keep pulling hair out of your head?

FYI, Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy and my best bud from high school who owned an auto parts store for 25 years BOTH recommend AGAINST using remanufactured drive shafts.
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