mc_holla

Is it just me or are the axles for the TL missing from the Advanced Auto site?

ez12a

yeah, they're not searchable anymore, but here's a link:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...pped-_-General

It works. Mine just came in this past thursday and it is a GSP axle (Tough One is GSP's type of axle).

Note, this is for the passenger side axle for a MT.

mc_holla

Swapped out my passenger side axle (GSP) during my clutch job but vibration/shake during acceleration exists. Next step will be to do the Driver side one.

Noticed that I dont feel the vibrations in 1st or 2nd gears but only in 3rd and up. Is it normal to just feel them in those higher gears, maybe due to the loss of the low-end torque, when bad-inner joints are the problem? And of not the axles, what else could it be?

FYI: Car is smooth when in nuetral so not wheels/tires. Also have 3-4 bad motor mounts.

Abe_Froman

iTrader: (5)

Need some advice from you guys. For the past two winters I've been getting a clicking noise when turning and it only lasts for like >10 seconds after start up. I have no vibrations and feel no loss in power delivery to my wheels.

Do I need new axles? Or is something else the problem?

I'm a 04 6-speed with 137k miles on original axles.

Abe_Froman

iTrader: (5)

Edit: I meant to put <10 seconds.

mn2trance

^ Do you know what side that noise is coming from? If you do, check the boot closest to the engine to make sure you're not seeing grease there. If you do, you need to get it replaced. And congrats on lasting that long on original axle!

ez12a

that's quite a bit on the original axles.

New passenger axle solved my clicking problem. It's like a loud click/creak whenever i made a right turn. Other than that I had no problems with vibrations or loss of power.

check your CV boot. If there's grease outside the boot, chances are it's going to need replacing.

My new axle doesnt click at all even when cold.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

motor mounts or both.

bedrew42

Question, I have the clicking, drivers side (6MT). It has been comfired to be CV on the driver's side. I have picked up a GSP axle part no. NCV36127 at Advance Auto.

Is this all I need to fix the problem? Or is there something else? The reason I ask is I had my right CV replaced three years ago at the dealer and I was charged for a Right Outer CV Joint & Boot for $180, a Joint Set, Outboard for $277 and a Boot Set, Outboard for $32.

Do I need the other stuff or just the part from Advance?

ez12a

^ look like they rebuilt your axle rather than replaced it.


If you buy an axle off Advance Auto, it should be all you need. Comes with boots and everything all assembled, you just need to put it in your car.

mc_holla

So GSP Part# NCV36127 is in fact the correct driver-side axle for our car (6spd)?

Wish I would have known this 10 days ago when i replaced the other during my clutch job.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I didn't realize the CV joints on the TL wear out this quickly. I've had to replace them on both of my previous Accords but it was typically around 150K or so. I've got 80K on my TL. Guess it might be a good idea to have these on hand even if I don't have any symptoms yet?

ez12a

Automatic and manual cars share the drivers side axle. The passenger side axle is the one that's manual/AT specific.

I never had to replace any axles in any of my old cars (89 civic, 93 integra). This is a first for me. But at 76 dollars for an advance auto axle it's not that huge of an investment. The labor to put it in was more than the axle lol.

but with that much power going to the wheels that steer the car, the joints go through a lot of stress. A lot more than a 4 cyl. Brotip, try not to floor it when making tight turns.

ez12a

edit: i stand corrected, the drivers axle is also at/mt specific. Could have sworn i read they shared the same part. Guess not.

mc_holla

Replacing the Driver side axle next. Will see what that does....

Know I have some busted mounts but if it was the mounts, would just revving the car give me vibrations?

ez12a

if the mounts were bad enough yes, but a lot of movement comes when the engine and transmission is under a load.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that price is pretty reasonable. I'll probably order a set just for good measure. I plan on hanging onto this car for quite a while so I'm sure I'll use them eventually

mc_holla

Dont feel anything in 1st or 2nd gears. Only on the top ends of 3rd and up. Almost like the loss of torque causes it. Why im thinking its this driver side axle.

lucnex

iTrader: (3)

If you are going to replace an Axle with OEM and Raxles makes it...I would save money on the Raxles and get a better quality product than the OEM.....obviously you cant do that for 6MT passanger sides but just my opinion....OEM axles are overpriced, dont use synthetic grease in the joints (pretty sure on this) and do not have a lifetime warranty against defects like the Raxles do....plus Marty is a great guy and has great custimer service.

mc_holla

Finally got around to replacing the drive-side axle (went w/ GSP on both) and have finally fixed my issue!

Now have to do something about these noisy Kumhos and i'll be set....

Abe_Froman

iTrader: (5)

I have an 04 6-speed and need to replace my axles. Having trouble finding the right part numbers though. Are these two the correct ones?

1. NCV36136 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...gsp_10019600-p
2. NCV36127 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...gsp_20870401-p

Is there a reason why the driver side one is cheaper?

Abe_Froman

iTrader: (5)

Anyone?

ez12a

Part # for the passenger side 6MT is NCV36136

have it on my TL.

Drivers side might be cheaper because IIRC the auto and MT share the same drivers side. MT is rarer, so the MT specific passenger side probably has less demand, therefore less supply. I've had mine for a while now and have no complaints. Would buy again, but i dont have to since it has a lifetime warranty

If you're wondering how the warranty works out of state, they will reimburse you the cost of the GSP axle if you get it replaced elsewhere. Or you can just grab another GSP and they'll reimburse you for it.

edit: according to their fitment check, drivers side is shared on both AT and MT.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Once I need new Axles I will get the Raxles without question! I put a set of Raxles on my Acura legend at 120,000 and I'm at 230,000 now still going strong!

Jo Meds

i was gonna order some GSP axles but i was only able to find the passenger side axle. they didn't have one for the driver side that i need. btw i have a 6MT. so i ordered OEM axles today from the vendor on here, wholesalepartsguy. i think it was 162 or 173? for each side. i forgot but should be here later this week if not early next week. can't wait to get rid of that vibration i get accelerating

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

How are the GSP axles holding up? I need to replace mine and I'm not sure which route to go.

ez12a

still good, no noises, no complaints.

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear! I just purchased the GSP's and did the install today. It cured the horrible vibration I was getting when accelerating above 40. With the coupon code, I only paid $104 for both sides with tax! My buddy helped with the install and he said my driver side inner joint was the worst he had seen. Both sides were thrashed and looking pretty limp and my car is an AT with only 48k. Before I bought these I checked the price for OEM and they were over $500 a side! How is that possible? Did honda just raise recently the price to gouge us since their crappy axles go bad so quickly or am I missing something here? MSRP was over $700 a side!

http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

^^you're looking at the wrong site for OEM parts. the prices seem to have actually come down a little. just over $150 each side.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

Interesting, I wonder why there is such a price discrepancy. Thanks for letting me know about this.

edgarr

I have the symptoms of the outer cv axle on the passenger side, I had the outer boot replaced like 3 months ago I think I'll just replace the whole thing with a gps axle.
I got an aligment done but the car kept pulling to the right and that's when I figured out that the axle was going bad, now the steering wheel seems off. when I turn it takes extract for the car to turn. Thjs is do to the axle ls right? Or could it be a tie rod end too or even the arm control cuz I know the
bushing are bad.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

^^pulling typically from poor alignment or lateral pull from an out of balance tire...

why did you get an alignment? did you get new tires? was the steering wheel off center after the alignment? when does the car "pull" to the right?

fill in the missing blanks...it'll help better assess what/why the pull exists.

edgarr

Well i bought used tires, I bought some type s rims and had them fixed and everything they are like brand new, tires were balanced too. I got the aligment before I found out about the axle. Car pulls to the right when I let go of the steering wheel when going in a straight line . I took the car to firestone the did check the aligment twice and the told me if the problem kept on going that itcould be an axle or a tie rod end, I then stared noticing the clicking sound on the right axle.
Could I bad axle cause the car to pull?

Also I bought the car in march and just got the first aligment last month, I was just waiting until I changed my tires. before the aligment the car was pulling but not as much but now the car feels weird, I gotta turn the steering wheel way more than usual when I turn to the left. I was parking in reverse today and I had to turn the wheel way too much like almost 6 o'clock ( if that makes sense) when usually a simple turn like 8 o'clock would be enough to just make a slighte move. What I'm trying to say is that it felt like was turning the wheel wayyyyy to much for just a simple movement not like was trying to take curve or a corner.

pierceman90

Bringing back an old thread.... I just ordered the GSP axles from advance for my 2006 6MT. I'll post an update on the ride quality once I put some miles on them. I figured you cant go wrong with the axle that has a lifetime warranty. If they break I will just go get my money back and buy raxles. Hell its only a 25 min job per axle anyway. I noticed no one has really posted in here for a while so I figured i'd give you all a quick update on pricing. My local Acura Dealer sells the OEM for $230.00 and offered them to me for 200.00 with my military discount. I also spoke with Marty, from Raxles. As you guys know hes got quality USA made axles that are as good if not better than OE. His current pricing is 199.00 per axle if you return the core. He sends a pre-paid label in the box with your new axle so you can just pack the old ones up and send them right out. You only get credited for the core if it is OEM. He doesn't have much use for the cheap stuff as he is all about quality and doesn't want the made in China stuff. If you don't have an OE core to return to him his axles cost $299.00. Autozone offers Duralast brand axles for AT and MT for similar price to GSP but I wasn't able to find any reviews on those so I went with the GSP's purely off of the recommendations seen on here. Hope this is helpful to someone. Good luck!

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Well I for one just got finished with my axle ordeal.

I replaced both my axles due to one clicking less than 10k miles ago.

At first the advance auto toughe1one axles seemed fine to me. Progressively or slowly they got worse over time and I didn't notice how bad my vibrations were until I drove another TL. Under hard acceleration I had vibrations from the steering wheel mostly but also could be felt in the seats. It was enough to be uncomfortable driving; my watch would shake on my hand.

Took it to a friend whose an acura tech and he said he noticed the same type of vibrations/symptoms with a lot of aftermarket axles. Got my dealer to price match the acuraoemparts.com prices of 154$ each and I had them installed. Total cost for parts was around $330 vs. 120ish for the advance axles.

With that I also had my wheels rebalanced and the car drives like an absolute dream. No vibrations, just plenty of steady smooth power.

IMO the advance once are hit or miss. I plan on returning mine ASAP as I did save the receipt.

d1sturb3d119

iTrader: (1)

^I like the plate you have on the car! lol

d1sturb3d119

iTrader: (1)

Marty has axles for the 6spd TL just fyi

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Lol. Just saw this. Thanks!

nfnsquared

Thread revival:

How are those GSP shafts holding up? Still good? Post years/miles since installed and whether AT or 6MT and if stock suspension or lowered. Thanks!

P.S. I don't have any issues at this point, but at 13 years and 253K miles on the original shafts (6MT) and living in the ND snow belt for 10 years, I'm considering doing some preemptive replacing.

Majofo

over 100k on the X GSP shafts. Just checked them out too because I'm replacing the struts and stabilizer links and they look great, boots are in primo condition.
Of course, if the OE shafts gave you that much life, and if you can get them at a good price, I'd go OE. But GSP shafts have held up very well.
Only thing to look out for is quality reduction since I bought mine. Might be a different story now.